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Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Drivetrain => Topic started by: J_Speegle on July 18, 2009, 12:58:46 AM

Title: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on July 18, 2009, 12:58:46 AM
PROJECT: Driveshaft Restoration

Click the link below for pdf version of this article
Driveline Restoration Article.pdf (http://concoursmustang.com/speegle/Articles/Article_Driveline_Restoration.pdf)

TIME: Approx 4 hrs depending on condition of the driveline

SUPPLIES:

- Assorted rags
- 000 Steel wool
- Assorted sandpaper 150-600/800
- 4 oz bottle of liquid gun bluing repair fluid
- Automotive striping tape approx 40 ft
- Spray can of satin clear, protective oil or protective wax
- Optional (based on class) spray can of cast colored paint for end yokes
- Assorted bottles/spray cans of modeling enamel for paint mark reproduction [/color]



+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Recently I was faced with the task of restoring a driveline for a car I was doing.
The way I had it figured,

1.  I could buy a new driveline with all the details done (cost a bit and no real challenge)

2. Could have the tube replaced with a bright shinny new one (cost is less but I lose the original weights)

3. Restore the one I have.  It’s not badly pitted plus I could try out a idea or two concerning reproducing the finishes


Pretty easy to figure out what I choose.






1- First I lightly blasted the driveline to remove any rust, corrosion, paint and whatever had built up over the years.
Be careful not to add any more texture to the surface than you have to. The more you add the more you will have to sand out later.



2- Next I sanded the tube lengthwise working my way (as the slight pits and scratches disappeared) up to 500 grit sandpaper.




3- Next the fun part. Since this is going to be a Concours restoration I could use a little paint to get me where I needed to be. In that case I would paint just the end yokes with a cast iron paint that I found matches the original look well. When applying I would make sure that I did not color over any of the welding beads that formed the mating edge between the tube and yokes. 

Instead, for this project,  I choose to do it as I would a Thoroughbred car and choose gun bluing solution discussed elsewhere to bring the freshly blasted yokes back to where they need to be as far as tone and tint.

I like to wire brush my parts before I add the gun bluing since I find that it produces a better final look in the metal.


(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717134102-75071619.jpeg)



4- Using the gun bluing solution and a brush I spread the liquid over the welds found on each end of the tube.

Next, with a rag, I applied a band (soft outer edge on the tube side) of bluing on the tube. This would reproduce the heat bluing that would have been produced when the two items were welded together.

While I was at it, I added a little “heat” to the driveline weights. Though dark now they will tone down as we work the surface.

(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133602-75051377.jpeg)


5- With 600-800 grit paper I sanded down the edge of the bluing and in, slightly, to produce a smooth transaction between the bare metal of the tube to the look of the darker gun bluing near the weld. All this all takes in approx ½”
NOTE: Don’t forget to brighten up the machined surfaces on each yoke. Really makes a difference in the final look.


(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133558-75022192.jpeg)




6- Next I found the original seam in the driveline tube. This is where the flat piece of metal was formed into a tube and welded the complete length. Like the ends of the tube this seam would also show a heat line originally. It would have been darker at the center, fading out to nothing at the edges.

To reproduce this I first laid out two lengths of stripping tape approx 3/8” wide and then, with a rag, applied a uniform coat of gun bluing, working it into the rag and tube as a rubbed. I did this twice to insure a dark line.

(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133557-75011445.jpeg)




7- Next I remove the tape and then reapplied two more strips of tape approx  ¼-3/8” from the edge (on each side) of the first stripe.  To this I applied a light coat of gun bluing using a rag one more time, working it into the metal and the rag leaving no liquid on the metal.

(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133550-74962093.jpeg)




8- Finally I removed the last of the tape and lightly sanded the heat stripe and the edges so that all noticeable signs of the tape (sharp edges) were erased and the overall look was muted. Once you get a good consistency (one end to the other) stop!

(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133600-7503636.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133554-74991729.jpeg)


This driveline happened to be of the tube-in-a-tube design so I could not forget the heat seam on the inner tube.

(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133558-75022192.jpeg)





9- At this point you can apply the original paint marks to the tube and yokes, if you found any. If not simply leave them for later..
Follow that with a light coat of satin clear or a spray wax or oil to finish.
Now stand back and take pleasure in a job well done.

(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-180717133547-74947.jpeg)
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: Sluggo on July 18, 2009, 01:14:50 AM
Brilliant!

Excellent method and concise presentation.

Thanks Jeff.
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: Cruise on July 25, 2009, 09:27:24 AM
Jeff - Can you post a picture of the driveshaft before you started?  Also, what method did you use to remove the surface rust?
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on July 28, 2009, 12:11:09 AM
Jeff - Can you post a picture of the driveshaft before you started?  Also, what method did you use to remove the surface rust?

Not great pictures - sorry. The close up gives a better illustration of the finish I started with.

As mentioned in the article I lightly blasted it in a cabinet - just enough to remove the surface rust and crud - without adding anymore texture, from the blasting than I needed to.

Would just mean more sanding :(

(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/69%20GT350%20Restoration/9F02M481897DrivelinestartDriveline.jpg)

(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/69%20GT350%20Restoration/9F02M481897Drivelinestartyoke.jpg)
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: Cruise on July 29, 2009, 12:54:00 AM
Thanks for the pic, Jeff.  I feel a lot better about using my original driveshaft now.  It looks pretty much like what you started with.
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on July 29, 2009, 01:03:45 AM
Good luck and let us know how the methods work for you.
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: ~GT-350#3000~ on September 11, 2009, 09:51:20 PM
Hi Jeff:

Nice Job. Is that  67 OR 68 DRIVESHAFT? Thanks!

JIM
#3000
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on September 12, 2009, 10:37:22 PM
Hi Jeff:

Nice Job. Is that  67 OR 68 DRIVESHAFT?

It's a 69  and one of the two piece styles
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: ~GT-350#3000~ on September 15, 2009, 11:36:32 AM
Hi Jeff:

Nice Job. Is that  67 OR 68 DRIVESHAFT?

It's a 69  and one of the two piece styles

Ok Thanks. My uncles unrestored 68 Mustang has the same two piece design. I think im going to crawl under his car and see if there are any stripes left on the driveshaft.

You have been a huge help with the restoration of #3000. Im currently investigating the stripes that would have come on my 67 driveshaft. The driveshaft was badly rusted. No stripes could be found. Identifying 67 driveshaft stripes from what I hear hasn't really been established by restorers. So if you are familiar with color stripes for a 67 Shelby with a 289 4 speed built on 6/7/67 in San Jose I would love to hear your input.

Thanks in advance!
Jim
#3000
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on September 15, 2009, 12:18:23 PM
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Identifying 67 driveshaft stripes from what I hear hasn't really been established by restorers. So if you are familiar with color stripes for a 67 Shelby with a 289 4 speed built on 6/7/67 in San Jose I would love to hear your input.



Jim - so we don't get off thread - PM sent ;)
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: ~GT-350#3000~ on September 19, 2009, 02:45:29 PM
Thank you Jeff!

Jim
#3000
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: 8T03S1425 on November 28, 2009, 09:17:26 PM
I'm glad I found this forum and I hope to learn much from it. If this first experience is an indication of what's to be learned, I'm in a good place.   :)

Excellant article on driveshaft restoration!!!

I'm working on a '68 GT500. As I do things to get the car back on the road, I'd like my efforts to be directed to making things correct. I've found that it sometimes it doesn't take that much more effort to do things correctly than it does to just get by.

Any-who, my driveshart was covered with undercoating of some sort. I spent hours hand handing with poor results. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a sandblaster, nor am I sure that sandblasting would be the best way to remove that stuff. I couldn't find any chemicals or solvents that would cut it and I was reluctant to use heat. Instead, I used one of the semi hard Scothbrite type of abrasive wheels in my electric drill to get the bulk of the undercoating off. I did this perpendicular to the shaft with a light touch.

Now, I'm hand sanding the length of the tube to get the scratches off. I started with 60 grit and now working with 150 grit. So far I'm satisfied with the results, but I'm getting a high luster finish. If I work up to 600 - 800 grit, it may end up looking like a mirror. Is that the look I want, or does it need to be a less shiney look?
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on November 29, 2009, 12:17:46 AM
.............Now, I'm hand sanding the length of the tube to get the scratches off. I started with 60 grit and now working with 150 grit. So far I'm satisfied with the results, but I'm getting a high luster finish. If I work up to 600 - 800 grit, it may end up looking like a mirror. Is that the look I want, or does it need to be a less shiney look?

Welcome - glad you found us

Need to get it down to a point where the sanding marks can't be seen and if its shiney that will not last long. Brand new pipe is pretty nice though it may have a few scraps in the surface (easy enough to move the finished driveline over the edge of the work bench or the like a few times) from moving it around but nothing that would gouge the metal
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: rmaginnis on March 17, 2010, 12:51:42 AM
Jeff,
I am using this article to detail my drive shaft. So far so good. I used lots of water to rinse the bluing off so tomorrow I'll know if things turn brown or not. 
Question, in your last pic it appears you painted the yoke orange (red oxide maybe?) Both yokes on mine were painted mostly orange although tough to tell if it was 100% (dipped, paint brush) with all the rust. What have you found? Were they orange before they were welded onto the tube or painted afterwards?
Thanks,
Rick
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on March 17, 2010, 02:40:17 AM
Jeff,
I am using this article to detail my drive shaft. So far so good. I used lots of water to rinse the bluing off so tomorrow I'll know if things turn brown or not. 

Hope everything turns out well. I just wiped mine with a wet rag, sanded and finished it all in a few hours. Guess I left it no opportunity to brown or flash rust   ;)


Question, in your last pic it appears you painted the yoke orange (red oxide maybe?) Both yokes on mine were painted mostly orange although tough to tell if it was 100% (dipped, paint brush) with all the rust. What have you found? Were they orange before they were welded onto the tube or painted afterwards?

Jack Brooks has looked into this and were my understanding comes from - he found that the inside surface of the ends were painted inside. This would indicate that the ends were painted before they were attached - likely to help the worker identify all the different ones that were likely at his work station.

Let us know how things work for you

Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: rmaginnis on March 19, 2010, 12:39:05 AM

Jeff, here's my attempt at a b302 drive shaft resto. I think it came out pretty good and the bluing for weld heat simulation adds a nice authentic detail touch. Thanks again for the tip!
(http://home.comcast.net/~rmaginnis858/b302pics/Temp/P3180015sm.jpg)

Rick
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on March 19, 2010, 01:30:34 AM
That is one marked up driveline.   Kind of like a circus tent   LOL


Glad ti worked for you and I have to agree the heat blue stripe and welds just add the final touch
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: rmaginnis on March 19, 2010, 02:16:57 AM
That is one marked up driveline.   Kind of like a circus tent   LOL

Glad ti worked for you and I have to agree the heat blue stripe and welds just add the final touch
I was thinking it was marked up like the graffiti on the side of a railroad car. I intentionally got sloppy with the LA/BL/BL stripes but its no where near as messy looking as the original paint stripes I found. In fact, the drive shaft manufacturer must have been trying to save every penny by thinning the paint to a point where it must have been like 'tinted lacquer thinner'. That stuff was everywhere.
Rick
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: CharlesTurner on March 19, 2010, 09:11:15 AM
Another use for old roller blades!   :D ;)
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: bryancobb on March 19, 2010, 01:28:35 PM
Those wheels look like the owner enjoyed RollerBlading more than most!!!!
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: Skyway65 on May 25, 2010, 07:01:56 PM
Here's another, albeit less colorful, attempt at the magical do-it-yourself driveline project.  As most of you know this is for my Jan. '65 Dearborn 6 cyl/C4 World's Fair car.  Not bad for 3 hours of work.  Although I'm not totally happy with some of the remaining pits in the metal.  More sand blasting?
(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab270/bertram65/driveshaft/2010_0523_185504.jpg)

(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab270/bertram65/driveshaft/2010_0523_185530.jpg)

(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab270/bertram65/driveshaft/2010_0523_180956.jpg)
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: CharlesTurner on May 25, 2010, 08:28:30 PM
I'd recommend having a new tube welded onto the original ends.  Jack Brooks can do this for you:  www.deadnutson.com
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: Skyway65 on May 25, 2010, 08:35:39 PM
Thanks for that Charles.  I was in touch with him just last week about that.  I was also considering having the original u joints redone too.  Waiting for pricing on that.
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: rmaginnis on May 31, 2010, 02:20:26 AM
Here's another, albeit less colorful, attempt at the magical do-it-yourself driveline project.  As most of you know this is for my Jan. '65 Dearborn 6 cyl/C4 World's Fair car.  Not bad for 3 hours of work.  Although I'm not totally happy with some of the remaining pits in the metal.  More sand blasting?
(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab270/bertram65/driveshaft/2010_0523_185504.jpg)

(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab270/bertram65/driveshaft/2010_0523_185530.jpg)

(http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab270/bertram65/driveshaft/2010_0523_180956.jpg)
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, no one will get close enough to see it under the car. Looks great to me for a 40+ year old drive shaft!
Rick
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: CharlesTurner on May 31, 2010, 10:37:07 AM
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, no one will get close enough to see it under the car. Looks great to me for a 40+ year old drive shaft!
Rick

If he's planning to show the car, it will matter.
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on June 01, 2010, 12:04:04 AM
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, no one will get close enough to see it under the car. Looks great to me for a 40+ year old drive shaft!

Most blasting ??? well no - you either need to start with a better tube or replace it.

If the pitting is very minor he might get by but any defect tends to stand out on an item that is typically very smooth and shinny
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: rmaginnis on June 01, 2010, 01:16:54 AM
If he's planning to show the car, it will matter.
how much will it matter (points wise) - compared to say a rusted shaft and a perfect reproduction??
Rick
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: CharlesTurner on June 01, 2010, 01:51:46 AM
how much will it matter (points wise) - compared to say a rusted shaft and a perfect reproduction??
Rick

Could be 1-2 points, which might be the difference between silver and gold.
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: Skyway65 on June 01, 2010, 10:00:13 PM
Yes, I am planning on showing the car (eventually!) and my goal from the start was to get it as perfect as I possibly can.  So that means I will more than likely go for the new driveshaft, rebuilt original u joints and restored slip joint.  And BTW-Thanks to everyone on this site for the expertise to make all this possible. ;)  The last Mustang I did was a '65 coupe way back in '78.  A LOT has changed since then!
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: rmaginnis on June 02, 2010, 02:13:14 AM
Didn't stop to think about the showing aspect, points and all that. I was more thinking along the lines of the pits not being noticeable while your driving it :)
Rick
Title: Re: Driveline Restoration - my attempt
Post by: fastback66 on September 17, 2010, 04:49:41 PM
were the ends of the driveshafts phospate coated? also was the slip yoke phosphated? I was thinking of having a new tube put in mine its about 150.00 but wasnt sure how to do the ends. Thanks
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: rmaginnis on September 17, 2010, 08:32:27 PM
I can't speak to other years but my 69/70 DS saddles were painted orange. I don't think it would have been beneficial to phosphate coat the saddles since they were welded to the tube. Phosphate creates an oxide layer which is undesireable for welding. I would assume they were left 'as cast' or raw forged state.
Rick
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on September 17, 2010, 10:10:09 PM
were the ends of the driveshafts phospate coated? also was the slip yoke phosphated? I was thinking of having a new tube put in mine its about 150.00 but wasnt sure how to do the ends. Thanks

No the cast ends were not phosphated  - just cast


I can't speak to other years but my 69/70 DS saddles were painted orange. ............

Sorry Rick not all of them - depended on the size of the yoke (marker was used by the guys making the drivelines to identify one specific size of yoke)
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: fastback66 on September 17, 2010, 11:18:43 PM
Thanks! For the info... What about the slip yoke it doesnt look like it was phosphated either but just want to make sure on my 66!
Title: Re:Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: fastback66 on September 17, 2010, 11:33:42 PM
Also what would you think about have a clear powder coated over the finished results for a driver car? I am doing mine the same way you showed me and it is looking great! I know you can get a low gloss clear finish from the powder coating.
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: 68 S Code on September 21, 2010, 10:18:18 AM
Another option to sanding it might be just lightly brushing it with the 3M stripping wheel found at the hardware store. I would stay away from a wire wheel. Then get a 5 gallon container of Evapo-rust and a long trough. Fill the container with the solution and let the drive shaft sit for a day or two. Might be amazed at how well this product works. I did my 40 year old emergency brake cables and they looked like the day they were originally fabricated. Couldn't believe how well it worked. Fasteners are now a breeze. I believe you may not even have to do the bluing as the solution only attacks rust. Doesn't pit the metal from what i noticed.  The heat marks should be visible. I am a big fan of this stuff but a word of warning...be careful with anything galvanized. I dipped the gas tank filler neck in there over the weekend and there was a chemical reaction which left a bright green streaking at the darker galvanizing. It was a pain to get it off. Finally took a soft brass brush to it. Not happy as the galvanizing patina turned a little bit shinier then I wanted. Can't wait to drop in the original upper and lower control arms. Just a bit worried about the lower arm ball joints and what the solution might do to the internal joint. Rubber doesn't seem to be effected as the cables had small rubber pieces which seem to not have been effected. Wish I had a drive shaft to try out.
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: e093116 on September 22, 2010, 06:02:51 PM
Jeff, thanks for the write up.

I refinished my driveshaft over the weekend with similar results to what you and others posted.

I found that using green, brown, and natural scotch brite hand pads worked well for blending out the bluing in lieu of fine sandpaper.

I also mixed up some satin clear by combining PPG DCU 2060 and DCU 2021.  This was the first time I used bluing and flattened clear so besides having a restored driveshaft the experience with new materials was also worthwhile.
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on September 25, 2010, 02:45:00 AM
Jeff, thanks for the write up.

I refinished my driveshaft over the weekend with similar results to what you and others posted.

I found that using green, brown, and natural scotch brite hand pads worked well for blending out the bluing in lieu of fine sandpaper.

I also mixed up some satin clear by combining PPG DCU 2060 and DCU 2021.  This was the first time I used bluing and flattened clear so besides having a restored driveshaft the experience with new materials was also worthwhile.

Glad to hear it worked well for another restorer
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: 68NordicCat on September 07, 2015, 11:29:56 AM
Jeff - GREAT article. Used it to refinish my single piece 68 J Code 4spd Cougar DS (Dec 67 SJ built). Started with an Evaporust bath - made a narrow trough out of $9 piece of foam insulation from HD lined with contractor grade garbage bag - cut the sides off and unfolded at bottom seem to create a long sheet (the tighter the fit in the trough the fewer jugs of Evaporust) - which took off all the old crud and really revealed the paint markings. A word of caution - although the markings were very clear and the DS was basically back to a nice dull gray finish the markings paint came off completely when I rinsed it. So I was glad I documented what I found after the bath before the rinse.

Followed your article from there. I had some pretty good pitting so to speed the sanding process I clipped a 1-1/2" thick piece of packing foam to a palm sander. Starting with 80 grit and then increasingly fine grits I ran the sander in a lengthwise motion. The foam allowed the paper to wrap the shaft following the contour but gave it a little more aggressive action. Finished by hand with the finest paper to eliminate the fine cross grain pattern left by the tool.

Got some "browning" of the bluing (since bluing is essentially an oxidation process I gather), but when I wiped those areas down before applying the clear satin, the top coat really brought back the dark finish. Also read in a gun maintenance forum that heating the part before the bluing can help reduce the rusting effect. Tried it using a heat gun with my second application on the long weld and seemed to work a bit better but couldn't swear to it.

Some before and after pics below. Probably got the markings too neat - hard sometimes to force yourself to be quick and somewhat sloppy like factory conditions. But happy with the results. Thanks.

The info here is invaluable as I continue bringing my Cougar back to life.
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on September 08, 2015, 07:20:26 PM
Thanks - that is what we're here for but always happy to know success can be repeated by the members here
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: lathamjr on February 18, 2017, 12:23:29 AM
Jeff - I just want to ask about the timing of the bluing steps. On the weld line how long did you wait before applying the additional strips on the side? And then how long till you sanded for the blend? Do you apply another layer of bluing over the center stripe as you do the sides? I'm probably overthinking it but questions can be easier than re-dos.
Thanks
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: J_Speegle on February 18, 2017, 01:04:35 AM
Jeff - I just want to ask about the timing of the bluing steps. On the weld line how long did you wait before applying the additional strips on the side?

By the time you get to the other end you can wipe (in the direction of the stripe) with a paper towel to make sure its dry and pull the stripe tape


And then how long till you sanded for the blend?

Your using allot less liquid and not letting it "sit" so you get a light discoloration. Once you get it applied it should be ready to peal back the tape and feather the edges. The product recats (when applied with a rag or brush almost instantly and leaving it longer than a couple of seconds does not make it any darker.

Do you apply another layer of bluing over the center stripe as you do the sides?

Yes it is easier to just redo the tape spaced further out on both sides and cover all three (dark stripe, and both sides) at the same time and it eliminates the possibility of leaving a untreated gap at the edge of the dark stripe



I'm probably overthinking it but questions can be easier than re-dos.

Don't we all ;)  Great things is this is likely the easiest redo that I know of

If you have a piece of oil free bare steel (like a small sheet or bar) practice there first if you want to get the hang of it

Good luck
Title: Re: Driveshaft Restoration - My Attempt
Post by: Crgjohnson on February 18, 2017, 11:10:00 AM
Very good info. I soaked my driveline in evapo rust for a couple days with good results. I think your methods work better. Thank you for sharing