ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: markb0729 on February 25, 2017, 02:27:37 PM
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I haven't tried yet but is it possible to get too and remove all the clips that hold the 2 halves of the heater box together? I want to remove the front of the heater box only (not looking to remove the entire heater box) to put the seals on for the doors (I believe there are 2) that swing back and forth that control heat, defrost and air flow. The heater box was out and restored but the bonehead person that put the heater box back together and installed it did not put all of the seals in. I can see at least some seals are missing via the passenger side fresh air access and by the metal clanking when I move the controls back and forth.
Edit: 65 Fastback no A/C, Automatic with center console
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The heaterbox clips on the passenger side kick panel are blocked. If removed, there may not be enough room to install them. It's not too hard to remove the heater box on '65 - unlike a fox chassis Mustang (ugh).
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Do it right, remove the box. All you will do is add to the mistakes the original bonehead made that didn't do it correctly. Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine and pull the box thru. You will lose some coolant but gain peace of mind.
Jim
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Thanks guys. You have put my self-denial in check. It doesn't seem like removal of the heater box should be too bad. I like things done right so I'll go that route. I'll just add it to the list.
The car has a center console. Do you recommend removing it before removing the heater box? Seems like it might get in the way.
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I just rebuilt mine. Pulled it by myself. Not bad at all. Putting it back is rather tricky. I re installed it myself and actually pinched a hose against the firewall and had to pull it back out after not getting any heat. Having a second person guiding the bolts and pulling the hoses from the engine compartment will make it a breeze.
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Definitely remove the seat, the console "may" have to come out but I've managed to get the heater out with the console in place.
Jim
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I've pulled the heater box in my dad's '65 Mustang with the console and AC evaporator case in place. The only thing I had to remove was the cardboard glove box. Pulling the seat is a good idea. I haven't done it because I was too lazy.
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Seat is coming out... Glove box is coming out... Console is staying in (for now). Great advice. Much appreciated!
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I took out the heater box today. Removing the passenger seat was a great tip. It would have been a royal PITA had I left the passenger seat in. The cardboard glove box gave me some issues until I discovered you can fold the sides to remove through the glove box door. I left the center console in. Believe it or not I had the most trouble disconnecting the heater hoses from the water pump and block. Those puppies did not want to come off! I drained about 2 gallons of antifreeze from the radiator petcock and I plugged the ends of the heater hoses before feeding them through the firewall. I did not remove the clips on the heater box yet but from what I see there is only a little internal surface rust. As I suspected, there are no seals installed in the heater box. I'm going to remove the clips from the heater box and refurbish the unit as it should have been done. The heater box has a date code stamped on it 4HE (August 64) which is in line with my estimated build date of September 2, 1964 so that's good. Thanks for all your help.
Mark
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The heater box has a date code stamped on it 4HE (August 64) which is in line with my estimated build date of September 2, 1964 so that's good.
Mark,
For the record, what color was the date code stamp?
Jim
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White. Repro defrost plenum and motor but the box is original. A picture is worth a thousand words.
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Mine was yellow when I took it out back in 2010. Does this call for a new thread discussion? San Jose oct 64.
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My car is a Dearborn Fastback, approximate build date of September 2, 1964.
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Thank you all for your advice and of course the abundant posts on heater box rebuild/restoration. I removed the heater box and did a restoration the way it should have been done in the first place. The old adage of "If you want something done right, do it yourself." holds true. I'm happy with it.
EDIT:
Materials Used
- Lacquer Thinner for clean-up
- Scott Drake Seal Kit
- JB Weld to fix cracks in heater box
- 3M Super 77 Adhesive for large foam pieces
- SCIGRIP #1829 Headliner Adhesive for foam in heat control box and small foam pieces
- Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer
- Rustoleum Flat Black for internal metal parts (I know this is not concours but I can live with it.)
- Rustoleum Semi-Gloss black for exterior metal parts
- Rustoleum Satin Clear coat for heater box
- Rustoleum Metallic Finish for control levers
- Testors bright Aluminum for rivits
This isn't a commercial for Rustoleum but I had most of it on hand and have had good results in the past. No sealer used between the heater box half's. ;)
Mark
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I did mine about a year ago and was pleased with the results. The only real tricky part was finding the correct plastic rivets for the resistor panel. I found them at West Coast Classic Cougar.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x449/bassguitar714/IMG_1178.jpg) (http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/bassguitar714/media/IMG_1178.jpg.html)
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Slightly off topic, but I use Scotch-Guard fabric spray on the paper fiber heater plenum. It's clear and water repellant. I think it adds a bit of "stiffness" as well. The spray should also be used on the fiber water shield located behind the instrument cluster on the left side, p/n C4ZB-14A099-A, 64-66 only.
Jim
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Slightly off topic, but I use Scotch-Guard fabric spray on the paper fifer heater plenum. It's clear and water repellant. I think it adds a bit of "stiffness" as well. The spray should also be used on the fiber water shield located behind the instrument cluster on the left side, p/n C4ZB-14A099-A, 64-66 only.
Jim
Thanks for the excellent suggestion, Jim. It was very timely for me, because I finished installing my fresh air vent and was getting ready to reinstall the instrument panel water shield. I'm off to pick up some Scotch Guard!
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Not to high-jack a thread... but what is recommended for an original heater plenum cleaning/restoration?? I have a good used unit I want to restore for my upcoming 66' Dearborn coupe so since we are discussing heater box restos, I thought I would ask since it pertains to this area.
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I know my heater box is not 100% concours correct. For example, the bracket above the fresh air door that mounts to the cowl should be a natural metal finish. Does anybody see other details that are not factory correct? No offense will be taken. It's all about the knowledge for the next project. ;)
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I know my heater box is not 100% concours correct. For example, the bracket above the fresh air door that mounts to the cowl should be a natural metal finish. Does anybody see other details that are not factory correct? No offense will be taken. It's all about the knowledge for the next project. ;)
Looks ok to me other than the L bracket that holds the box up to the fresh air intake is normally natural metal, not black.
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Not to high-jack a thread... but what is recommended for an original heater plenum cleaning/restoration??
Believe we've discussed this before. The cardboard becomes stained, discolored and takes on multiple tones. Short of trying dye on it I have not found anything that addresses the issues. I have covered it in a water soluble glue to reshape and repair some areas and spread the glue over the whole surface and it tends to even out the look a fair amount but nothing perfect and not something I would suggest unless you have a test plenum to try it out on first.
Found a somewhat local retired guy that was thinking of doing repairs and restorations on these but he had not made the choice to jump into the market place yet. His work looked pretty good though I had not seen what he started out with, only finished ones, they appeared to be presentable.
Like the Scotch guard idea for nice originals that are in good condition.
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Thanks for the input Jeff. Let me get some pics of what I am starting with and I'll start a new post. It was sitting in a wood working shop for decades so it's covered in dust. I'll blow it off and wipe in down first to see what I've got. No way I can tell about any staining yet.
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I see the control levers are two different finishes in this thread. What is the correct finish?
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The pins that stick up for the cables to attach to should be natural. The brackets for the cables to attach to should be black with natural clamps and usually phosphate hex screws with a slot so they can be used with a screwdriver.
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Mark,
For the record, what color was the date code stamp?
Jim
I hope no one minds me bringing up an old post and hijacking it:
I just pulled my heater box and it's silver.
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I just pulled my heater box and it's silver.
I assume your car is a October 64 San Jose Build with a two speed blower motor (three wires).
Jim
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Oh! I knew I forgot to mention the Mustang. Yes, it's the fastback in my sig. 2-speed motor, three wires. The same date code is also on what's left of the heater plenum. It still has the tower clamps and what's left of the red stripe heater hoses. Unfortunately, the original owner got over spray on the assembly when he painted the dash shell.