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Going to be a personal choice for whoís doing the work. But if a full 1/4 is available thatís the route I would do. But I have all the necessary tools to do it as the Factory did. Also the level of car you want in the end. If you do it with the remainder of panel you have left & want to hide the seam from the backside. There is a bit of work involved in that. But if not concerned with that then that might be your route. 
All marks I located were on the passenger side of the radiator support. The third line on mine though had "GT" and "22". My fastback is a factory GT
"A" code car and is documented with a copy of a build sheet located and the buck tag.....

A few suggestions to helping see the markings better: 1) wet the surface with water (it can provide some contrast in the color differences of the metal); 2) shoot your pics with no flash. The flash really washed out a lot of details in the photos you attached. I wish I had taken photos of my radiator support but it was stripped and then replaced many years ago (well before inexpensive digital cameras!). I did record all of the markings I found (which weren't many).
I discovered marks on mine in the same place back in the 80ís and seem to recall a K and/or GT designation but didnít take any pics or write anything down. If I ever pull the front of the car off again, Iíll check it out.

As far as OP reading what he has, try misting it with paint and block sand with 400 or 600 grit which would remove paint from unetched metal
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: drum brake components: reuse?
« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 06:39:16 PM »
I believe these will end up being silver. Careful inspection (given the pic quality) shows silver through the plastic.
I will find out since I need a few for various cars I have.

If I feel the need I can spray them goldish. It's not like anyone can see them.
A easy DIY with paint if you don't have access to dyeing/plating them would be the Eastwood zinc gold faux finish system. It consists of a base coat silver spray paint and three translucent green ,red and gold spray paints . You could get by with just using the translucent gold on that small part. It is already silver after all. I have bought the gold separately before from Eastwood. 
Thanks Richard - sure looks like the same worker marked both of these examples.  Top yellow mark still surprises me looking at others but with two examples its clear to see the pattern for at least this short time period
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: '65 steering shaft/box removal
« Last post by caspian65 on Today at 06:30:59 PM »
The boxes are not that difficult to rebuild, the kit is around $75.
1969 - 1970 / Re: 69 GT350 alternator ground wire bolt on point
« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 06:29:39 PM »
Believe it does attach using the same attachment point and hardware with the thick battery/ground cable that goes to the battery
To add to the conversation , the correct big block alternator harness ground eyelet is larger to accommodate the larger BB ground bolt diameter. The smallblock alternator harness ground eyelet on the other hand is smaller to fit the small block smaller diameter ground bolt.
Since this thread is based on my example's progress, I thought I'd share some of the third member markings I found this week too. Some are similar to John's December built example. The yellow daubs were definitely sprayed on paint for my car, clearly inside the mounting holes of the 3rd member.
The pink marking under the tag area is interesting. Looks to read (sloppy) "8 Ring".
Processes, Products & Techniques / Red Oxide touch up
« Last post by Bossbill on Today at 05:55:20 PM »
I was touching up a small area in the wheel well area and tried a new can of Rust-oleum I had just picked up.
While the cap showed a dusty brown, when applied this matched the color of my DP74LF really, really well.
It dries flatter and, of course, is not an epoxy.
But if you got overzealous with another color over the top of your DP and want to color match, this in concert with some matte appears to do the trick.

If you color matched your DP all bets are off.

The area I spray canned was the area of the sill. Yes, the car is upside down.

1969 - 1970 / Re: 1970 AT Floor Shifter Wire
« Last post by J_Speegle on Today at 05:22:17 PM »
The tar covered woven loom/wire covers are out there (used in other parts of the car) Not sure if the uncoated stuff is available.  If it is someone will respond with a source
1969 - 1970 / Re: 69 Mach1 rear leaf spring code
« Last post by J_Speegle on Today at 05:19:53 PM »
Would guess that the date is hard to read since the one you posted does not match the expected pattern - Julian calendar
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