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11
Wanted Ads / Re: WTB: 1966 t-code smog bracket, tube to coil mount
« Last post by dsielke on September 19, 2017, 03:19:10 PM »
bracket found, thank you Paul. :)
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Retainer for trunk lock on California Special?
« Last post by 67gtasanjose on September 19, 2017, 01:39:22 PM »
What if the guy that installed it was left handed?

I thought the same thing ;) Must be an "odds" thing and if I were judging, I wouldn't deduct for that detail but might mention it in comments ;)
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1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Huge flat spot on acceleration
« Last post by Hipo giddyup on September 19, 2017, 01:36:44 PM »
You guys are correct, I was just talking out loud that I had the solid screw with the primary booster. Sorry for the confusion. ;)
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Retainer for trunk lock on California Special?
« Last post by OldMustangGuy on September 19, 2017, 12:59:51 PM »
I'll toss in the photo as this is fresh in my mind having come from two MCA shows this year where the eagle eyes of Messrs Rupp and Speegle caught me not once but twice with the wrong retainer! Came home from Kansas City and just stumbled across the correct missing piece in a parts box...
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Retainer for trunk lock on California Special?
« Last post by Murf on September 19, 2017, 12:16:15 PM »
Thanks to all for the information.  Item corrected. 
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1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Huge flat spot on acceleration
« Last post by jwc66k on September 19, 2017, 12:16:06 PM »
Wow!! That must be where I goofed. The primary has the solid screw ( I remember this when checking the acc. pump diaphragm)  so the secondary has to have the ball/weight and hollow screw. Darn it! Let me confirm and switch it if it's wrong. I was likely so excited during the rebuild I switched them by mistake. Surprising it ran at all.  :o
No, the primary has a check ball, weight and hollow screw. The secondary has a solid screw.
Jim
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1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Huge flat spot on acceleration
« Last post by Hipo giddyup on September 19, 2017, 11:54:09 AM »
Wow!! That must be where I goofed. The primary has the solid screw ( I remember this when checking the acc. pump diaphragm)  so the secondary has to have the ball/weight and hollow screw. Darn it! Let me confirm and switch it if it's wrong. I was likely so excited during the rebuild I switched them by mistake. Surprising it ran at all.  :o

Thanks Dino1
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Hood Letter 1967 + Alignment
« Last post by 67gtasanjose on September 19, 2017, 10:17:59 AM »
May be there is a possibility to prepare a two piece card board/foil template (left and right side), which can be shipped overseas?
Just as an idea, not having an original hood for preparation a template here in GER.
My hood has already already been painted, so I need to avoid scratches as well.

As I can read, pin letters are prefered before using stick on stuff.

In my opinion, anything less than metal template is asking for trouble. Maybe others have suggestions along what might work best given your location and "painted" situation.
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Hood Letter 1967 + Alignment
« Last post by Ralf on September 19, 2017, 09:55:36 AM »
May be there is a possibility to prepare a two piece card board/foil template (left and right side), which can be shipped overseas?
Just as an idea, not having an original hood for preparation a template here in GER.
My hood has already been painted, so I need to avoid scratches as well.

As I can read, pin letters are prefered before using stick on stuff.
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Hood Letter 1967 + Alignment
« Last post by 67gtasanjose on September 19, 2017, 09:23:39 AM »
IMHO the statement is wrong. Every SJ Mustang I have had and seen if original has the hood letters. They were often lost due to hood replacement. I would use the pin type and have used a original hood to make a template.
Marty
+1, I made a right side template and a left side template made out of a new sheet metal strip which I clamped, placing a straight edge of the metal section aligned to the bottom edge of the hood(s), onto the outside of a donor hood skin (an original 67 'hood skin only', not a complete hood) and then I drilled the holes though from the inside of the old skin's holes, right onto the new metal patch to make each template. I then test-fit each OE Ford letter (reproduction ones do not fit good at all), making sure the letters fit loosely in the holes as the originals do without the barrel nuts and made sure they all looked straight in the templates. Some of the holes were off ever-so slightly (though the letters did drop right in) so I egged-out the holes as needed and then I pencil-marked the side of the hole to drill into the new hood at. Next steps, I inserted an 1/8" rivet into each 1/8"hole I drilled as I went along, I did not "pop" these rivets (though I suppose you could and then drill them out), I did this so the template did not move around as a proceeded to each remaining hole. First try on the replacement hood and everything was perfect. IMHO, There is NO WAY to get a measurement 100% correctly transferred onto a replacement hood without some sort of STEEL template.

I realize you do not have a donor hood (and you are in Germany, so a bit difficult to obtain) but any other sort of alignment is sure to fail to some extent. Even using this method, a person has to be extremely careful because the pins are VERY 'unforgiving' when it comes to getting a good alignment.
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