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1967 - 1968 / 67 - Ivy gold interior question
« Last post by rocnhrse on January 22, 2018, 09:51:32 PM »
67 GTA s code fast back built April 67 San Jose   deluxe  interior  ivy gold 6G
Was the dash pad,lower knee pad , and the A pillar pad all the same color a really  dark green, almost  black or could  they be both tones of green ,
I believe  the carpet that I found  when I took apart the fold down rear seat looks  original and it's a dark moss green almost  the same color  as the car yet replacement  carpet came as a light  green with a goldish hue
1967 - 1968 / Re: Tripometer
« Last post by 427Fastback on January 22, 2018, 09:50:20 PM »
The 8K tach was an option for 68 Mustangs, it came with the Trip Meter. The Convenience Group is a separate option (NOT part of the Tach option).

FWIW: All V-8's in 1968, when ordered with the tachometer option, got the 8K tach, unlike 67's where the 8K tach came solely on Hi-Po's & Shelby's. I do not believe a 67 could be ordered with the 8K tach with other V-8 engines (such as any 289's or 390's).

If you need to repair the numbers on the Trip Wheel, a numbered strip can be found over on some Chrysler forum...I'd have to look again to see if I can find the info but it is a numbered adhesive strip to glue to the numbered wheels and matches Ford's numerals perfectly.

I am going to disagree with you...I have seen 68 390 Auto's with 6K tachs.
Events / Re: Open House January 20 2018 Scottsdale
« Last post by nham3407 on January 22, 2018, 09:46:45 PM »
Marcus, thank you for hosting the event at your shop. You have a great shop and some great cars that were displayed. Wanted to say thank you in person but you were continuously surrounded by others. It was a great break from the auction.

Thank you Brian
1969 - 1970 / Re: Heater box diffuser
« Last post by Vcode on January 22, 2018, 09:40:41 PM »
AMK lists a 1969-70 Heater Box Duct Rivet in their catalog.
In the 2014 catalog it's on pg 163 Part # B-13181
It looks different than the push pin.
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: 1965/66 Mustang upper and lower control arms
« Last post by FXguy on January 22, 2018, 09:38:22 PM »
I had Anghel Restorations redo mine. Turned out great.

+1 Marcus does nice work.

1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: 1965/66 Mustang upper and lower control arms
« Last post by FXguy on January 22, 2018, 09:37:07 PM »
What is RP for the uninitiated (like dumb ol' me...)?

I suspect they are talking about "Rare Parts" the supplier.

1969 - 1970 / Re: 69 door glass bracket location
« Last post by Brock on January 22, 2018, 09:12:10 PM »
Thanks guys really appreciate it and I thank anyone who can tell me the foam they used between body and chrome that holds weatherstripping around top of door opening
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: 1965-1966 Convertible Power Top Switch Question
« Last post by midlife on January 22, 2018, 09:07:47 PM »
I'm not sure which emoticon would have helped, but all British car guys know that these cars specify "Positive Earth" or ground. Yes, the positive terminal is connected to the chassis instead of the negative terminal. The coil polarity is also reversed with + going to the points.

So now you can read my reply as "Gee Bill, that was a really clever play on words" OR "Gee Bill, you really have an odd sense of humor".
Now you're being really negative about this, aren't you?
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: 1965/66 Mustang upper and lower control arms
« Last post by midlife on January 22, 2018, 09:05:28 PM »
The RP ones that I have seen were for a 67-68 and the shape on the sides was incorrect.  I used an original control arm to mark out the correct side dimensions and ground the RP ones down.  They actually came out really nice.  The ball joint was a cheap replacement, bought some MOOG ones and used correct boots and had Marcus rivet them on.  The only benefit of the RP ones is that you start with clean, pit-free metal, they will require additional work to make them look decent.
What is RP for the uninitiated (like dumb ol' me...)?
1969 - 1970 / Re: Heater box diffuser
« Last post by kammertime on January 22, 2018, 08:56:59 PM »
I noticed today that I may have the same problem. I thought there was a small nipple on the main heater box that the upper hole just slid over to hold it in place. I don't know what the length of that nipple should be but mine is just about flush. I can't tell if it broke off or was made that way.

Where can I buy the "scissor" push pins that go in the bottom 2 holes ? I don't see them in the NPD catalog.

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