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1967 - 1968 / Re: Intake manifold marking
« Last post by Coralsnake on July 16, 2017, 04:45:32 PM »
I have seen it several times before on 1968 302s
For the engine compartment black I suggest you use the search feature. It has been the subject of allot of prior threads. In a number of them you should find suggestions, what worked for others and that sort of info
1967 - 1968 / Re: Intake manifold marking
« Last post by J_Speegle on July 16, 2017, 03:32:07 PM »
Don't recall seeing or finding that mark on a 68 small block though it has been seen many times on 65-66 289's. A number of examples can be seen in the picture in the library with all the engine waiting to be loaded at the Cleveland engine plant

I'm guessing you already checked the casting date to confirm the intake is from that engine

Just checking
1969 - 1970 / Front valance paint application - 69 Dearborn
« Last post by ruger on July 16, 2017, 03:23:02 PM »
Was it standard practice to paint the inner side of the front valance the body color?  Going over my pictures from almost four years ago I see Silver Jade all over the inside of the front valance.  Thanks
I also want to add,  when removing the black from the firewall forward the engine compartment was also Silver Jade.  Previous owner did a rattle can job on the engine compartment so I stripped it to re paint.  Was surprised to find Silver Jade underneath.  No signs of and accident requiring a re paint to the areas.  The Silver Jade was all over.  I just wanna return it to the way it left the factory.  This is a Dearborn Nov. 1968 build.
Parts for Sale / Original 1971 (works for 72/73) PS hose Long with retainer.
« Last post by svo2scj on July 16, 2017, 03:21:59 PM »

Well after battling with "repro VS original" parts I bit the bullet and choose to use original Ford LINE parts on my Boss build.

I can offer an orignal 46 year old PS hose with no buggered threads, cuts burns or abrasions.     Just because I paid $280 to get two hoses -doesn't mean you have to (or pay half for this)

Offered for the absolute Boss 351 or 71 429 CJ/SCJ car being restored for $125.00 delivered in the USA.  If you are in AU or EU I will sell for $100 plus shipping.

Paypal prefered (I'll pay the fee) , can accept USPS money order IF "you like to revisit the old days" of waiting !

1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: 1966 speedometer inaccurate
« Last post by rocket289k on July 16, 2017, 03:04:49 PM »
Hi There,

Aside from your comment that the speedometer is "sometimes" correct this really sounds like you have the incorrect gear on your speedo cable.  The P205 is larger than the factory original tire.  A P195 75/R14 is the closest that you can to the correct size and ride height on a  65 or 66 when using P-metric sized tires.

West Coast Classic Cougar has a handy calculator on their website to help you determine the correct number of teeth you need on the speedo cable gear based on your tire dimensions.

To determine your tire diameter in inches use this site:

Based on the information that you provided you need a speedometer gear with 19 teeth.  I'd start with the speedometer cable gear to ensure that it is correctly sized and not worn and then move on to the cable and the speedo head itself in diagnosing this issue.



This question has been brought up before. In research for an article for my Mustang Club's newsletter, I found actual Ford statistics for the production number of 289HP vehicles, all three models, for 1964 thru 1966. I can't find my source materials but here's what I remember. There were about 7200 289HP vehicles produced in 1964-65, and about 5600 produced in 1966. That may or may not includes Shelby (it's vague). Assuming the current "conventional wisdom" is correct, for 1966, about 25 to 35 percent of all body styles were equipped with a C4 automatic transmission. That's between 1400 and 1960 vehicles. That's about as close as anyone can "estimate".
Another "number" to consider, there were about 1.29 million 1964-66 Mustangs produced by Ford. Figure half are gone - wrecked, rusted or missing - "barn finds" in waiting. That's still around 600,000 out there, probably less. Keep them running.
1969 - 1970 / Re: License Plate Color ?
« Last post by jwc66k on July 16, 2017, 01:02:19 PM »
Will get the ' shinny ' on Monday when I begin the registration process.  Brian
Having done this "process" before, remember you opponent is the California DMV, and its bureaucracy. Their main function is to do motor vehicle related paperwork. Most believe they are there to frustrate customers and either give them an ulcer of drive them to drink.
To "placate" their instruction for reuse of black-yellow plates you need: two identical black-yellow plates; a "year of manufacture", aka YOM, sticker on one plate. It's officially called the registration expiration date. For your purposes, the year of the YOM sticker MUST be the same year as the car you are trying to re-use the plates on. Simply put, you want to re-register a 65 Mustang (or any 65 car), the sticker must have "1965" on it. The expiration month does not appear to be a problem.
The Now it gets weird. If you buy a new 2017 car, or bring in an older car from out of state with the intent to register it in California, the DMV will issue your car a (wait for it) a 2018 sticker. Get the discrepancy? Don't argue with them, don't stir it up, "Flash", your DMV clerk does not care. He, or she, has a book with ridiculous laws, rules and regulations in it and you, citizen, do not count.
If I understand correctly, you are inquiring about plate numbers for a vehicle sold in the San Diego area in 9/68.
I have a vehicle sold from Drew Ford (now Penske) in next door La Mesa in 6/68 with plate WSD xxx per California title.
I hope this helps as a lower bound.
One more item - there were over 13 MILLION black plates in that series. They were issued by the DMV, not the dealer. You could buy a car in San Diego and four to six weeks later, the plates would arrive in the mail, no matter where you lived. The criteria used was - "next" -  without regard to letters or numbers. In other words, don't overthink this. The current DMV does not care, they want your money. You are correct in that in the 1969 time frame, there was a transition to blue-yellow plates. "When" was the original question. The question really should be - "What is the earliest date a blue-yellow plate appeared"?
Suspension / Re: Brake drag/slow pedal return
« Last post by 68NordicCat on July 16, 2017, 10:37:59 AM »
I may try new pads but it really feels mechanical. I was on a shakedown after trying to resolve a power steering fluid leak and tested the brakes again - at 25-30 mph applied firm, sudden pressure like an emergency stop. The brakes start to engage and then just release with little to no stopping power. Under normal driving conditions, i.e. no aggressive breaking, things seem fine and the car stops easily. Wouldn't know there was a problem until you try to lock it up. I've bled the system several times and am running silicon fluid at the suggestion of a friend (hardcore Cougar guy that says he's never had problems and runs it in both his 68 and 69). Could a proportioning valve problem cause conditions like this? Would really like to drive the car but can't justify it until this problem is solved.
1969 - 1970 / Re: License Plate Color ?
« Last post by Brian Conway on July 16, 2017, 10:26:27 AM »
Well, by golly, you are right about that.  These plates are not stamped with the 63.  My 65's black plates are stamped with the 63.  More checking around and it seems the ' 63 series ' plates are steel and ' 70 series ' and onward are aluminum ?  My thinking is that this is how the difference is identified ?  Will get the ' shinny ' on Monday when I begin the registration process.  Brian
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