ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Parts => Topic started by: Morsel on November 02, 2016, 05:31:47 PM
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I was looking at his stuff because I'm thinking about redoing my dual GT HiPo exhaust system and from what I'm seeing it looks really good. What do you all think, anyone use his stuff, have any problems with them???
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Have used his system on a number of cars I own and have built. As well have judges plenty of them. Would not hesitate recommending the parts and systems for anyone doing a real restoration. Have a driver or beater other systems might be a better choice for you - just don't say you restored the car ;) IMHO
I did try and cut a corner (already purchase a new H pipe for my Boss). Put the whole system on when I installed the rebuilt motor and the only pipe I'm still having issues with is the non-Fuller H pipe. Got to heat it up and beat it with a hammer to get it to clear the clutch arm :( Oh well my choice.
Others will work but I've not had them go in and have no issues as I have the Fuller items. Just my experience
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I purchased the following items from Scott Fuller for the restoration of my '67 GTA Convertible back in 2013:
Part # EX-MU3 1967 2-inch Transverse Muffler (date coded August 1966)
Part # EX-MC5 1967-1973 Mustang 2-inch tailpipe band clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-MC6 1967/68/69 Mustang Tailpipe/Tip Horseshoe Clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-RB1 1967-69 Resonator/Intermediate Pipe Bracket-to-Hanger Bolts (4 required)
I even told Scott when I ordered the parts that unfortunately my budget wouldn't allow me to purchase a full 390 dual exhaust system from him (it would have been about $2,900), and that I would probably need to integrate his parts with those from NPD. Scott was very understanding of my financial situation, and even offered tips on putting it all together - great guy!
As Jeff said, Scott sells really high-quality stuff, and it's definitely the way to go for a concours restoration. However, if you're looking for something to use on a driver car (something that will be driven on wet roads), then there are less expensive alternatives...
I would have no hesitations about buying parts from Scott again, and I hope purchase the rest of the 390 dual exhaust kit from him someday soon!
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Thanks for the info. I do know there are cheaper ways to go out there, but I have been doing my car as correct as possible even to the point of using barely any reproduction parts, that's why I was struggling with this and how to handle the exhaust, mine are wrong and rusted to begin with anyway. The car is not a driver, but a very limited "drive downtown and to some car shows is about it. It will live in a bubble most of the time.
What did you get bare steel or aluminized? I would assume you're asking for trouble with bare steel, rust no matter what you do... just wondering which route I should go?
Thanks as always,
Jason
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What did you get bare steel or aluminized? I would assume you're asking for trouble with bare steel, rust no matter what you do... just wondering which route I should go?
I've always purchased or chosen the bare still (it comes coated with a protectant for shipping and storage) for my application. But or conditions are much different than allot of other areas
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I put a Scott Fuller exhaust system on my '69 GT350 and every piece fit perfectly without any adjustment. I would recommend and would purchase again.
TOB
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I purchased the following items from Scott Fuller for the restoration of my '67 GTA Convertible back in 2013:
Part # EX-MU3 1967 2-inch Transverse Muffler (date coded August 1966)
Part # EX-MC5 1967-1973 Mustang 2-inch tailpipe band clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-MC6 1967/68/69 Mustang Tailpipe/Tip Horseshoe Clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-RB1 1967-69 Resonator/Intermediate Pipe Bracket-to-Hanger Bolts (4 required)
I even told Scott when I ordered the parts that unfortunately my budget wouldn't allow me to purchase a full 390 dual exhaust system from him (it would have been about $2,900), and that I would probably need to integrate his parts with those from NPD. Scott was very understanding of my financial situation, and even offered tips on putting it all together - great guy!
As Jeff said, Scott sells really high-quality stuff, and it's definitely the way to go for a concours restoration. However, if you're looking for something to use on a driver car (something that will be driven on wet roads), then there are less expensive alternatives...
I would have no hesitations about buying parts from Scott again, and I hope purchase the rest of the 390 dual exhaust kit from him someday soon!
FYI aluminized pipe is standard on Scott's systems it is the bare steel that you have to pay extra for. Aluminized pipe doesn't typically rust when exposed to rain. You probably have to pay extra to get aluminized on the bargain exhaust or muffler shops. Just thought I would mention it because I was not sure if your comment was meant to imply the Fuller system would rust or to imply with a car exposed to the rain that you would want a lower price system.
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Bought all but the "H" pipe from Scott fuller Reproductions for my 69 428 CJ. Everything fitted great except the passengers side pipe before the resonator is too close to my driveshaft, so have to look at some minor mods to clear. I know this side is closer but its too close for my liking, about 1/16"
So my recommendation is you buy the complete system front to back and I'm sure it will fit perfectly. Trying to cut corners only gives you a headache later, IMHO.
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Bought all but the "H" pipe from Scott fuller Reproductions for my 69 428 CJ. Everything fitted great except the passengers side pipe before the resonator is too close to my driveshaft, so have to look at some minor mods to clear. I know this side is closer but its too close for my liking, about 1/16"
So my recommendation is you buy the complete system front to back and I'm sure it will fit perfectly. Trying to cut corners only gives you a headache later, IMHO.
+1 . It would fit if all SF pipes were used. Scotts systems are made on a jig using factory patterns . They are kept to tight tolerances. They are meant to fit with other factory pipes or other Scott Fuller made pipes. Non SF after market pipes are notorious for not very precise tolerances. If you go mixing some other non SF aftermarket pipe into the mix then expect fit problems because of that.
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Every FITment issue anyone usually has is because of mismatching exhaust parts. This is true with EVERY car on the road and parts vastly differ between aftermarket product lines. WHATEVER you buy for WHATEVER car you are working on, I would recommend ALWAYS buying the parts from the same vendor, using at the very least, the same manufacturer. (should availability be an issue) For the most part, manufacturers build a complete system WITHOUT considering whatever the factory did and certainly not considering whatever another manufacturer might build. Many "factory" systems are welded (been doing this for decades). Most often, when you ask for say "just a muffler", them asking you to buy the adjoining pipes isn't THEM trying to up-sell the product, usually it is because it will help you to avoid having FITment issues.
As I have said in other threads, being the owning a muffler shop you bump into every possible scenario imaginable with FITment issues. If you think having a pipe-bender handy makes life easier...Not really...but it shows you how much 1-degree of bend and one degree of rotation matters! Basic rule of pipe bending is you cannot "un-bend" a pipe.
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I used Fuller clamps and supports on my Shelby. The exhaust tip clamps were absolutely perfect and when tightened down laid absolutely flat with the rear hanger/insulator. I highly recommend their product and the service is well above par.
-Keith
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I was involved with scott from the start of making exhaust systems (& other much needed concours correct parts) & loaned him parts & the main reason his exhaust systems fit so well is they were made using ASSEMBLY line only examples & his muffler dates came from low mile cars we researched (not guessed at) & the AMK clamps were also made from my assembly line examples & scotts exhaust hangers were made from assembly line parts so if you use ALL his exhaust parts you will have a complete concours correct perfect fitting system. Plus it helps knowing these parts were made by a rocket scientists !!
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OK, getting ready to pull the trigger on a full Scott Fuller exhaust system, front to back with all the clamps ect... I'm still wondering if I should go with the bare steel or aluminized. The car will be driven on occasion very short distances so a coating on bare steel to keep it from rusting probably ain't going to fly. I'm struggling and want it to look correct, but the bare steel scares me that after three or four years they're going to rust. The car will never be driven in the rain or on wet roads and does live in a bubble, so maybe I'm fine.
Do the aluminized ones look the same, I would think not and it would probably be obvious...
Anyway, I do live in Northern California, should I not worry and just go with the bare steel?
...and yes, I know there's an up-charge for it.
help me decide :-\
Thanks,
Jason
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OK, getting ready to pull the trigger on a full Scott Fuller exhaust system, front to back with all the clamps ect... I'm still wondering if I should go with the bare steel or aluminized. The car will be driven on occasion very short distances so a coating on bare steel to keep it from rusting probably ain't going to fly. I'm struggling and want it to look correct, but the bare steel scares me that after three or four years they're going to rust. The car will never be driven in the rain or on wet roads and does live in a bubble, so maybe I'm fine.
Do the aluminized ones look the same, I would think not and it would probably be obvious..
No they look different
Anyway, I do live in Northern California, should I not worry and just go with the bare steel?
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Given your location (doesn't sound like you life near or in one of those untypical micro climates) I would go with the non-aluminized. I have on the last two
Don't have either handy or I would snap a picture of what they look like 5-10 years after installation
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No they look different
Anyway, I do live in Northern California, should I not worry and just go with the bare steel?
Given your location (doesn't sound like you life near or in one of those untypical micro climates) I would go with the non-aluminized. I have on the last two
Don't have either handy or I would snap a picture of what they look like 5-10 years after installation
Thanks Jeff, it was what I was leaning towards anyway, but just getting that last minute purchase nervousness because of the cost of these things, I know I'll be happy with them ;)
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If you plan to drive at all, I would have to recommend the aluminized pipes.
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If you plan to drive at all, I would have to recommend the aluminized pipes.
Haha, now you're making me question it again, I will drive it on very seldom occasions, short distances. Just curious what the reasons you're saying if I drive it all to get the aluminized, love to hear your thoughts. This is exactly why I'm asking peoples opinions who have experience with the Fuller pipes.
Thanks,
Jason
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Thanks Jeff, it was what I was leaning towards anyway, but just getting that last minute purchase nervousness because of the cost of these things, I know I'll be happy with them ;)
Yes it is a big cost. I always hesitate and weigh options - often too much my disadvantage.
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Haha, now you're making me question it again, I will drive it on very seldom occasions, short distances. Just curious what the reasons you're saying if I drive it all to get the aluminized, love to hear your thoughts. This is exactly why I'm asking peoples opinions who have experience with the Fuller pipes.
Thanks,
Jason
Here is the situation. Condensation builds inside of the pipes once heated, it pushes it out and beggs it to return once cooled off again. The wet to dry to wet to dry to wet to dry causes the rusting to begin from the inside-out. Easy to keep a classic out of the elements but you have to consider that one of th elements is the humidity in the air.
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Here is the situation. Condensation builds inside of the pipes once heated, it pushes it out and beggs it to return once cooled off again. The wet to dry to wet to dry to wet to dry causes the rusting to begin from the inside-out. Easy to keep a classic out of the elements but you have to consider that one of the elements is the humidity in the air.
Unless he's in one of the odd micro climates (example right next to or in the middle of the rice fields) the humidity is normally very low. Last week it was 7% in this area then shot up to 12%
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Here is the situation. Condensation builds inside of the pipes once heated, it pushes it out and beggs it to return once cooled off again. The wet to dry to wet to dry to wet to dry causes the rusting to begin from the inside-out. Easy to keep a classic out of the elements but you have to consider that one of th elements is the humidity in the air.
Yes and the rusty water is forced out the small openings clamped off where the pipes meet. This will often stain the outside metal unless you do detail work after each drive. If you are going to drive the car you should consider the aluminize. It is different looking but not a "in your face difference" that the vast majority would be able to distinguish. Yes I would rather see the nice bare steel instead of the aluminize pipe but that is me. You have to understand that many of us are used to perceiving nuance differences that 99% of the car enthusiasts are not aware of. It is more important to do what is best for you and not what is best for us, if that makes sense. :)
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Haha, now you're making me question it again, I will drive it on very seldom occasions, short distances. Just curious what the reasons you're saying if I drive it all to get the aluminized, love to hear your thoughts. This is exactly why I'm asking peoples opinions who have experience with the Fuller pipes.
My main reason is as stated... condensation in the pipes
Remember that the resonators and mufflers are going to be aluminized, so it actually will look more consistent.
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My main reason is as stated... condensation in the pipes
Remember that the resonators and mufflers are going to be aluminized, so it actually will look more consistent.
Good point caspian65...
OK, then from a totally different perspective, it is repro anyway no matter what you do, correct... so just from a judging or price evaluation of the car, would you deduct for them being aluminized? When I show the car, it's obviously going to be in a driven concours class...
For the last year I was pretty much assuming I was going to get the bare steal ones, but now after hearing all this again, I'm reconsidering what's best for my application and longevity... and it's sounding like I should maybe just go with the aluminized 🤔
Jason
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Good point caspian65...
OK, then from a totally different perspective, it is repro anyway no matter what you do, correct... so just from a judging or price evaluation of the car, would you deduct for them being aluminized? When I show the car, it's obviously going to be in a driven concours class...
If your asking about MCA, currently, they allow aluminized in both trailered and concourse driven with no deductions
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If your asking about MCA, currently, they allow aluminized in both trailered and concourse driven with no deductions
Well that's good, not that I'll ever be in a MCA show since I live in Northern California, haha. Hope to some day get to bring my car to one of the MCA shows and get it judged and see how it compares and holds up...
Thanks everyone, starting to get a handle on this now and what I should probably do.
Jason
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I'm a little late to this conversation but I'll add my experience with Scott's exhaust systems. I recently installed a new exhaust on my 68-GT350 as part of the restoration. Similar to the experience relayed by Jeff earlier, I cut a corner and used a "concours correct" H-Pipe that I bought from NPD. It took almost an entire day to get the H-Pipe installed (the list of problems with it is almost too long to describe) and literally less than an hour to install the rest of the pieces as supplied by Scott. The precision and accuracy of his work is as good as it gets. If you value your time at all or are paying someone to install the system you're way ahead to go with Scott's offerings.
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I'm a little late to this conversation but I'll add my experience with Scott's exhaust systems. I recently installed a new exhaust on my 68-GT350 as part of the restoration. Similar to the experience relayed by Jeff earlier, I cut a corner and used a "concours correct" H-Pipe that I bought from NPD. It took almost an entire day to get the H-Pipe installed (the list of problems with it is almost too long to describe) and literally less than an hour to install the rest of the pieces as supplied by Scott. The precision and accuracy of his work is as good as it gets. If you value your time at all or are paying someone to install the system you're way ahead to go with Scott's offerings.
Yes, I've read the other horror stories from other people and since I wanted it to be correct and fit properly (especially because I'm putting it in myself) I'm definitely going with the entire system and all hangers and such. It will be expensive, but worth the money in the end. I have yet to hear one complaint from anyone who's gotten anything from Scott, so feel very confident that it'll be worth the money in the end...
Thanks,
Jason
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The complete exhaust kits are typically manufactured by either Motive Industries or Precision Exhaust. The intermediate pipes and mufflers are "ok" in terms of fit and finish. However, both company's H-Pipes are awful. They don't fit properly at all. I posted about this issue in the past. http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6815.msg39607#msg39607
I had a terrible time finding a properly fitting H-Pipe for my "A" code. I finally bought a H-pipe from Scott Fuller Reproductions (Scott and I discovered that the "A" code H-Pipe and the "J" code H-Pipe found on '68 Shelby are virtually identical (with only a couple of minor differences). We both completely forgot that the "J" Code 302 in the '68 GT-350 uses the same "standard" log type exhaust manifolds that the "A" code 289 does. In fact, those two exhaust manifold are pretty much the same other than having different engineering and part numbers.
As a result, the only differences on the '68 GT-350 H-pipe vs. "A" code H-pipe are the placement of alignment tabs where the H-Pipe meets the intermediate pipes are in a slightly different spot on the pipe and the part number on the '68 GT-350 H-pipe is of course for a '68. However, once the H-Pipe is installed you can't even see the part number. Other than that, the dimensions, bends, flats, etc. of those 2 H-Pipes are completely identical.
I have 2 H-Pipes from Motive and they both fit terribly. One purchased in 2010 as part of an entire exhaust kit and one purchased separately in Jun 2013. I also sourced a 3rd H-Pipe from Precision Exhaust. The Precision Exhaust H-Pipe was identical to Motive part (the companies have a bit of history that ties them together and use the same designs). Based on some digging / discussions with various suppliers it appears that Motive supplies the majority of the reproduction H-Pipes for sale today.
The installation of the '68 GT-350 H-Pipe from Scott Fuller for my '65 "A" code was flawless. The only change I needed to make was to the "kit" intermediate pipes. They were too long for the proper H-Pipe and needed to be trimmed. Bottom-line don't waste your money on the Motive or Precision Exhaust H-Pipes. They just don't fit. The Scott Fuller H-Pipe is outstanding. It's premium priced but it fits like NOS.
Regards,
Ron