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1964 1/2 - 1966 / NOS heater hose correct or acceptable?
« Last post by 21.04 on Today at 02:18:30 AM »
Someone asked me for nos heater hose and found a few pieces of 60's era ribbed black hose.  No stripes.  Are these black stripeless hoses acceptable for any show class?  Anyone know if there is a method of applying a stripe to a hose? 

1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Tag or no Tag
« Last post by NEFaurora on February 23, 2018, 11:58:41 PM »

Yes, The I6 C4 Trannies had Tags just like every other Ford Tranny...


Tony K.

1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Spindle Paint Marks on 1966 Metuchen built K-code
« Last post by evantugby on February 23, 2018, 11:56:46 PM »
Is this a difficult one?
Suspension / Re: finishing drum brakes
« Last post by J_Speegle on February 23, 2018, 11:38:33 PM »
Since this is a general discussion of brake drums I would mentioned that the surfaces that were machined depended on year and model/options of the car

Here are a few examples showing the different surfaces that were machined on some applications

There are more that I don't have pictures handy of right this moment

For your application I would look to the rear outer surface but as mentioned your have such heavy pitting I'm not sure you can do that safely without taking too much material off and leaving the metal too thin
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Voltage Regulator Stamping
« Last post by Bob Gaines on February 23, 2018, 10:44:52 PM »
This is great info. How do I check if I need the silver (38 or 42 amp) or yellow (45 or 55 amp). Electrical is not my strong point!
If you had A/C or the heavy duty battery option you got the yellow TF identified regulator. I am not sure about convertible or smog . All of the rest were base electrical systems and typically received the silver AF marked regulator. FYI the common replacement Ford kept in inventory was the yellow stamped TF heavy duty version because it would work regardless of alternator. It meant less inventory to stock. This is the reason why many of the yellow stamped regulators ended up on otherwise all original cars because they were replaced early in life with the de facto replacement.
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Voltage Regulator Stamping
« Last post by 66RavenGTCoupeAgain on February 23, 2018, 10:21:22 PM »
Believe you will find the that yellow silver   printing was for standard (AF engineering number)  and silver yellow for the heavy duty (TF engineering number)  for cars with that option, bigger battery, larger alternator amps ..

This is great info. How do I check if I need the silver (38 or 42 amp) or yellow (45 or 55 amp). Electrical is not my strong point!
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: drum brake components: reuse?
« Last post by carlite65 on February 23, 2018, 08:29:03 PM »
2092--rubber plug-only of the brakes have been previously serviced.
2A787--no, never seen one.
372583-S---yes always there.
i have done countless brake jobs over the years and those are my recollections.
1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: drum brake components: reuse?
« Last post by evantugby on February 23, 2018, 08:22:24 PM »
Thanks for the inspiration! All components look to be reusable.

I used evaporust, a wire wheel for the toughest muck, brake clean and closest-color paint I could find (note: dupli-color is pontiac-blue), then sprayed components with boeshield.


I was referencing the 1966 Mustang Exploded View Illustration Manual by Jim Osborn Reproductions and noticed the following components missing from my rear drum brakes.  Picture shows those items highlighted I am missing. 

Question:  These obviously aren't critical components and nobody noticed I was missing them so do you guys have them on your rear drum brakes? 
1967 - 1968 / Re: Rear brake cables
« Last post by Bossbill on February 23, 2018, 08:09:30 PM »


Any thoughts on how it looks?

Your first picture of the latex replacement is not very good.
Can you clean up your original and then place it next to latex replacement cable so we can see how close they are to each other?

If you didn't tell anyone do you think they could tell that it was latex?
Would Bob Gaines give it a pass?  :)

There is a caveat to using latex. It doesn't like light and may degrade over time due to ozone and atmospheric conditions.
But it usually lasts for quite a number of years. Just don't expect it to last as long as the original rubber.
1969 - 1970 / Re: Drip rail moldings for 1969 vinyl top Grande model.
« Last post by 67gta289 on February 23, 2018, 08:00:38 PM »
The MPC calls this out:

Without vinyl roof RH C9ZZ-6551726-C; LH C9ZZ-6551727-C

With vinyl roof RH C9ZZ-6551726-D; LH C9ZZ-6551727-D

I asked a friend who has about 20 of them (69 Mustangs that is) and confirmed that they are very hard to come by.

A shortcut (gasp!) is to cut the vinyl off before it turns up the metal piece that the drip rail latches on to.  Not an easy place to see.  But of course, not concours.   I would think also that it would be tedious and difficult to not break through to bare metal, and all the bad things that come with that.  I would keep looking, but what does one do when they can't be found?  Unless it was a 428 car it would be crazy to buy a donor just for that.  But now if there is a great interior with clock and tach, and a San Jose firewall pad, and... OK I'll stop
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