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21
1964 1/2 - 1965 / Re: ? Cowl to Hood seal Brackets
« Last post by jwc66k on April 17, 2024, 12:38:39 AM »
Given that you have a later 66 car I would say they were P & O
Try Ford hardware Part number 357903-S2. It's used on 64 thru 66 Mustangs for the two end brackets, qty 4.
It documented in this forum's library under topic "Mustang Hardware Spreadsheets 64-66". There are two Excel Spreadsheets there, on by "application" the other by "part number".
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=10788.0
Jim
22
Wanted Ads / Looking for paint stamp for toploader trans
« Last post by DaveF on April 17, 2024, 12:03:32 AM »
I am looking for information about the paint stamp that I need for my transmission. In my case, it is a GAZ stamp. Any idea where I can get one? Thanks
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1964 1/2 - 1965 / Re: ? Cowl to Hood seal Brackets
« Last post by J_Speegle on April 16, 2024, 11:18:03 PM »
Thanks Charles, mine appeared to have traces of black paint as well. Should have specified late March 66 built SJ car.

Original screws phosphate or natural?

Given that you have a later 66 car I would say they were P & O

Going to separate this discussion from the others since you asked about a different year  ;)

Just to keep things neat
24
1969 Mustang / Re: 69 taillight buckets
« Last post by J_Speegle on April 16, 2024, 11:12:19 PM »
I've never tested the surface to determine the original plating. Would be a good project for someone even using the basic tests - but if you have access to one of those machines that would be great also  :)

Only way to tell for sure.  Often people do zinc then dully it down with a wheel acid wash since cad is not legal in allot of places though you can ship them if it were cad
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1969 Mustang / Re: Steering wheel
« Last post by RoyceP on April 16, 2024, 11:10:35 PM »
I've had several of the 1969 rimblow wheels. My opinion is the reproductions are outstanding and typically work with no issues. They come from here:
https://rimblowrestoration.com




Of course the same company will restore your original wheel too - for the same price. Your choice.

26
1969 Mustang / Re: Steering wheel
« Last post by J_Speegle on April 16, 2024, 11:09:35 PM »
Given the focus here the answer would be to fix or replace your steering wheel with the original 2 spoke. IN this way you will side step the issues with the reproduction (don't know them personally) and the concern about the rim blow liner causing issues that may damage the car.

If, again remembering our focus, your car is original or restored an aftermarket wheel IMHO will just look out of place and at least half of the people who view your car will tell one another "hey look its got a aftermarket steering wheel" That could get old quikcly
27
General Discussion / MOVED: Well liner
« Last post by J_Speegle on April 16, 2024, 11:05:22 PM »
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General Discussion / MOVED: 70 Dearborn question?
« Last post by J_Speegle on April 16, 2024, 11:03:25 PM »
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1970 Mustang / Re: 70 Dearborn question?
« Last post by J_Speegle on April 16, 2024, 11:03:10 PM »
At the plant likely for lining up the sub-structure in a jig to produce a subassembly

Nothing attaches there on a completed Mustang
30
1967 Shelby / Re: How to ID NOS stripe kit
« Last post by Bob Gaines on April 16, 2024, 10:19:22 PM »
For what it is worth the stripe kits that Branda sells unless something has changed are sourced from a MFG that uses original 3M stripe material and are copied using originals as patterns. With that said using a stripe kit from multiple different kits from most likely different stripe run batch's would have a high probability of not matching. Also with the old stripe kits the tendency for the adhesive to dry up is common.To your question there were various ID differences over the years on service stripe kits. I wanted to point out some information that you may not have considered before spending a lot of time trying to piece together a mis matched stripe kit. The best results can be expected from ether a new stripe kit made from the same stripe run that is done after factory original or a complete matching original kit  . The only problem with the complete original kit is that you may find out sometimes (not always) after applying a portion of the kit that a section or two or three may have had the adhesive dry up.
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