ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Interior & Trunk => Topic started by: 68 S Code on June 25, 2011, 12:04:53 AM
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As I was cleaning the gas tank (out of the car) noticed a date code stamped on the flange. It read 8G52. Makes sense since build date of car is July 12. Never would have thought it would have been stamped. Has anyone tried making a ink stamp to redo the logo? By the way there is something rattling around inside. Thought some bolts or nuts were inside. Managed to get the bugger by the neck and it was like a big ball bearing. Grey metallic bean. No rust on it. Is it supposed to be in there? I think there are a few in there.
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As I was cleaning the gas tank (out of the car) noticed a date code stamped on the flange. It read 8G52. Makes sense since build date of car is July 12. Never would have thought it would have been stamped. Has anyone tried making a ink stamp to redo the logo? By the way there is something rattling around inside. Thought some bolts or nuts were inside. Managed to get the bugger by the neck and it was like a big ball bearing. Grey metallic bean. No rust on it. Is it supposed to be in there? I think there are a few in there.
I don't know but it brings to mind a gas mileage ring rejuvenator type product that appears like some metallic looking balls or lumps that when introduced into the gas tank were supposed to dissolve over time by the rolling action in the tank and deposit metals onto worn engine rings or something. One of many latest greatest products that was sold some years ago. Maybe a 19.99 TV product. ::) Just the first thing that came to mind. Nothing like that is supposed to be in the tank from the factory. Bob
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I've tried shaking them out but a lot harder tha it looks. By the way does anyone know of a easily available product which replicates the grey sealant used between the gas tank flange and the gas tank drop in the chassis. I remember it being a grey pliable sealant/rope caulk/plumber putty goop (even though it was 16 years old at the time of removal). Tried using rope caulk but only available in white or brown.
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I've tried shaking them out but a lot harder tha it looks. By the way does anyone know of a easily available product which replicates the grey sealant used between the gas tank flange and the gas tank drop in the chassis. I remember it being a grey pliable sealant/rope caulk/plumber putty goop (even though it was 16 years old at the time of removal). Tried using rope caulk but only available in white or brown.
Grey strip caulk like what is used under the front fenders. It is available at some auto paint stores ,check eastwood,AMK used to sell it too.Incorrect black is the most prevalent at the stores now. Bob
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Bob thanks found grey at home depot. Ace only carries white and brown.
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Though I've only needed the grey when doing a Dearborn another choice is mixing the light grey and black to get the color/tone your looking for then putting the mixture in a piping bag for the application step. Piping bag is the same thing (you can make one) bakers use (come in different sizes) to apply frosting or make eclairs and such
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Jeff its funny but I started working in a bakery at 15 and worked there til graduating from college. Know how to use a bakers bag and know how to make one from paper. Would I get extra points if I made a nice design? So you recommend mixing grey and black sealant and applying the custom color. Now that I think of it wasnt the goop at the trunk the same stuff that was used on the doors to mount the watershields? The intresting property of that stuffg was that it didn't dry.. Even when the car was 15 years old the stuff still was soft and messy to get off. The new sealant will all cure after a few hours.
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I am not quite sure what you are getting at Home depot but would suspect it is not the same product especially after you made a comment about it curing. It is probably more like a product for home use and the like. I wave used a gray Mortar in a tube caulk product around the house from HD that reminded me of the strip caulk in similar texture but would not want to use it because it hardened up like rock in a few hours. The correct strip caulk will remain plyable for some time ,years maybe . After years of exposure and heat cycling it dose tend to turn hard. It is closer to texture to modeling clay then to a home caulking product . The door water shield adhesive is a similar color but a different product that spreads thinner and has a more elastic property. Bob
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Bob the mortar caulk you refered to would harden up. I think going with a Urethane based sealant or an Elastomeric is the way to go. Elastomeric sealant stays flexible and will not harden like a rock. I went with a urethane grey and black mix to get it a darker grey than straight out of the tube. Applied it with a bakers bag like Jeff suggested. It's intresting that you mentioned thatthe front fenders were originally set in a grey strip caulk. I've seen some original Dearborn cars built around the build date of my car and feel the color was black.
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Bob the mortar caulk you refered to would harden up. I think going with a Urethane based sealant or an Elastomeric is the way to go. Elastomeric sealant stays flexible and will not harden like a rock. I went with a urethane grey and black mix to get it a darker grey than straight out of the tube. Applied it with a bakers bag like Jeff suggested. It's intresting that you mentioned thatthe front fenders were originally set in a grey strip caulk. I've seen some original Dearborn cars built around the build date of my car and feel the color was black.
First off the gray is a darker gray and as Jeff mentioned earlier we usually use a mixture of the lighter gray that is available and mix with the black to get the darker gray which is prevalent in Dearborn cars if you are trying to mimic the assemblyline. The assemblyline gray strip (medium gray not black) caulk darkens with age and also is known to collect dirt and dust along the way too. Break a piece off and see what color it is inside ;) Bob
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Bob the mortar caulk you refered to would harden up. I think going with a Urethane based sealant or an Elastomeric is the way to go. Elastomeric sealant stays flexible and will not harden like a rock. I went with a urethane grey and black mix to get it a darker grey than straight out of the tube. Applied it with a bakers bag like Jeff suggested. It's intresting that you mentioned thatthe front fenders were originally set in a grey strip caulk. I've seen some original Dearborn cars built around the build date of my car and feel the color was black.
That may be alright for you but I wouldn't do that in my opinion. I would also caution others to not use this type of mixture . If originality is not a concern then there are any number of products that will work like this. It seems a little odd that you are constantly pushing for originality in your project and stray off the path on something like this. I guess it was the right decision for you. I hope others consider a different path. Just my thoughts . Bob
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Just where your car "weathered" could have a different effect on products too. This from AZ was hard and dry.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/svo2scj/AZ%20R%20code%20restoration/AZmustang080.jpg)
You wouldn't see mold growth or color shift from products brake down.
Mark
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Bob I did not mean any disrespect nor did I try to mislead anyone. When Jeff made the suggestion to mix black with gray for the seal at the gas tank and apply it with a bakers bag I was under the impression that he meant some sort of sealant. I did some hunting around and knew that urethane and elastomeric sealants are pliable as we use these products at joints in construction. I found that mixing standard colors produced by a single manufacturer could yeild a dark grey color. Thats what i did at the gas tank because only the threads of the screws showed shigns while the rest is hidden from view. I did not want to mislead anyone but rather passed along my experiance. The picture I attached was a shot at the fender of an original unrestored 68 coupe. To me it looks black. May be dark grey inside but black on the exterior now. I agree that any lighter colored sealant/caulk/rope caulk will darken from dirt. In construction that it a common problem.
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Has anyone tried the Mac gray rope caulk?
https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a/dark-gray-body-sealer-strip-caulk.html
I was offered and sold a black rope caulk said to be correct for my mid year SJ car (gas tank and fenders), but it doesn't appear to be correct per this thread.
I wonder if the Mac's is a decent color and texture?
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Has anyone tried the Mac gray rope caulk?
I was offered and sold a black rope caulk said to be correct for my mid year SJ car (gas tank and fenders), but it doesn't appear to be correct per this thread.
I wonder if the Mac's is a decent color and texture?
Black will work since the "black" is often not a real strong black when if comes to chalking and the original appears (when its not exposed to the elements) a very dark grey. I've used products that were listed as "black" for 30 plus years and found it to be a very close match to original so the term gray can be IMHO misleading. Also many restorers back in the 80's (and copies of the product sold through Mustang parts houses) use the light or medium grey since they was what was available as "NOS" so that mislead allot of people during that period.
As far as the MAC stuff I've never ordered or used it - sorry
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Black will work since the "black" is often not a real strong black when if comes to chalking and the original appears (when its not exposed to the elements) a very dark grey. I've used products that were listed as "black" for 30 plus years and found it to be a very close match to original so the term gray can be IMHO misleading. Also many restorers back in the 80's (and copies of the product sold through Mustang parts houses) use the light or medium grey since they was what was available as "NOS" so that mislead allot of people during that period.
As far as the MAC stuff I've never ordered or used it - sorry
Very Dark Gray +1 . The Mac strip caulk product can be seen poking out of the bottom of the package in a enlarged picture . Going strictly by the image I see represented in my monitor it appears to be more of a medium gray. I have not used that specific product ether so I don't have any more of a impression other then the picture provided.
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While resto-modding my 65 coupe I found a box of caulk rope by 3M . . . I believe it is a med. grey.
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While resto-modding my 65 coupe I found a box of caulk rope by 3M . . . I believe it is a med. grey.
They and other suppliers make a dark grey /black product. There is a fairly long thread that was posted a while back discussing the change in the 3M product, other suppliers, comparisons and related details that I suggest people interested in finding and using seek out using the search feature here
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Getting back to this . . .
The rope caulk I got from a fellow restorer had no gray in it whatsoever. Jet black.
I don't know what med gray or dark gray means as that's quite subjective.
How about we use grayscale values?
Here are 8 different grays, according to their grayscale values (here it's called Grayscale 235 descending to 75). See attachment. Which one do you guys like?
[any good drawing program could replicate this for your monitor/printer]
When applied to the gas tank and fender area (SJ Mar) how much should Goosh out? Yeah, Goosh is a technical term!
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Here are 8 different grays, according to their grayscale values (here it's called Grayscale 235 descending to 75). See attachment. Which one do you guys like?
[any good drawing program could replicate this for your monitor/printer]
8-8+ ::)
When applied to the gas tank and fender area (SJ Mar) how much should Goosh out? Yeah, Goosh is a technical term!
Gas tank typically very little - more (slightly) looking from underneath
Here are some examples. Less product used to seal compared to the fender application. Remember the color of the strip is affected/changes over time and with exposure to the sun and the air
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-291017225848.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-291017225805.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-291017225705.jpeg)
Fenders often none IMHO was not covered. Every once in a while you might find a car where the end of the strand slide out but from the tens of thousands I've seen this was not the norm. Many of the picture threads of unrestored 67 San Jose and even 68's here on the sight will provide you with some examples
Will start a new thread in the 67-8 Section so that it makes it easier for other members to find the fender related information if its not buried in a discussion about gas tanks
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16826.0 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16826.0)
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The pictures of unrestored is great, but it's when the item is taken apart that you can really see how it was done.
Mine has been apart for too long and I never took pictures of the remaining goop. Never thought it was important. Until now!
Glad you liked my gray scale. I really do like things definitive and not subjective.
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The original rope caulk, when exposed to sun/elements, will turn light gray. Most of the stuff I find on original cars or areas that have not been disassembled before are a very dark gray, almost black. For the cars where the assembly plant was using an actual gray caulk, it was definitely gray appearing.
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While resto-modding my 65 coupe I found a box of caulk rope by 3M . . . I believe it is a med. grey.
I have only found that style in the old checkerboard 3M boxes.
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I found this unique padding on our SJ 68 HCS gas tank. It appears to be sail panel or kick panel pads and scraps.
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I found this unique padding on our SJ 68 HCS gas tank. It appears to be sail panel or kick panel pads and scraps.
Maybe repurposed pads from a large Ford/T-bird trunk. Something that was full lined in the trunk