Author Topic: Yellow top coil restoration tip  (Read 10404 times)

Offline markb0729

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #45 on: December 03, 2017, 01:57:42 AM »
Thanks for the update Bill.  I'm going to place an order.
65 Dearborn Built Fastback
Approximate Build Date, September 2, 1964
289 4V, C4, PS, PB, No A/C

Offline preaction

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #46 on: December 03, 2017, 04:58:16 PM »
Mark, I have a few cans left over from a case purchase if your interested cost plus shipping.
8R02S125064- January 6 1968  SJ   7F93S591808 - April 28 1967  Dearborn   7F91S544039 - December 17 1966 Dearborn

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #47 on: December 08, 2017, 10:36:16 PM »
A few questions, as I just received my Rustoleum paint today.
My current 2D stock coil needs a refresh and a better date code.
Are we still going with this date format (using "0LEC" as the decal's date code, for example)?
0=year
L=November
E=5th week
C=shift

Since most of my engine is end Dec 66/Jan 67
is there a batch of coils made that fits this date?

I was thinking of "7AAC".
--------------------------------------------------------
Is the coil stamp supposed to be really well done or like someone didn't care much and just stamped it a bit sloppy?
My current coil is certainly not done in a straight line (a very gradual "S" curve on the box outline.

Bill
Concours 3/2/67 GT350
Driven     6/6/70 0T02G160xxx B302
Modified  5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 2+2
Race       65 Coupe front clip, Convertible frame mods and SFCs; 2+2 conversion; Many 'glass parts

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #48 on: December 09, 2017, 12:12:09 AM »
A few questions, as I just received my Rustoleum paint today.
My current 2D stock coil needs a refresh and a better date code.
Are we still going with this date format (using "0LEC" as the decal's date code, for example)?
0=year
L=November
E=5th week
C=shift

Since most of my engine is end Dec 66/Jan 67
is there a batch of coils made that fits this date?

I was thinking of "7AAC".


When was your engine assembled?  That is the most important guiding date.  Right now I would choose a December date
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #49 on: December 09, 2017, 12:32:48 AM »
When was your engine assembled?  That is the most important guiding date.  Right now I would choose a December date
Or better yet November IMO.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #50 on: December 09, 2017, 12:35:22 AM »
FYI the date debate is pretty much mute since once properly indexed in the coil bracket as factory the date code is covered.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #51 on: December 09, 2017, 12:43:07 AM »
Or better yet November IMO.

Is that because a large batch was run then?

The casting date of most engine pieces was in Dec/Jan. I don't recall the block assembly date and the block is hard to get at presently. I'm thinking early January.
Bill
Concours 3/2/67 GT350
Driven     6/6/70 0T02G160xxx B302
Modified  5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 2+2
Race       65 Coupe front clip, Convertible frame mods and SFCs; 2+2 conversion; Many 'glass parts

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #52 on: December 09, 2017, 12:58:49 AM »
Is that because a large batch was run then?

No I don't believe they were made in big batches but instead were being produced consistently since they were used on millions of Ford products as well as supplying the aftermarket and over the counter needs of the company. I would just choose a wider gap if it were my car for an engine built in Jan
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #53 on: December 09, 2017, 01:17:32 AM »
Ok, got it. Thanks for your insight.

I'll whip up a vinyl paint mask and paint the silver.


Bill
Concours 3/2/67 GT350
Driven     6/6/70 0T02G160xxx B302
Modified  5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 2+2
Race       65 Coupe front clip, Convertible frame mods and SFCs; 2+2 conversion; Many 'glass parts

Online 69GT350H

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #54 on: December 09, 2017, 01:36:05 AM »
Menards carries this item at some of their stores. Handy if you are in the North Central US.
Otherwise, this is how shipping works (for me):

Merchandise Subtotal: $3.68
Processing Fees:         $2.80
Shipping Charges:      $6.71
Pretax Subtotal:       $13.19

So for 1/2 the cost of a case from HD you get 1 can. Yea, I hate to have so much waste as well. Actually, I just did a search and do not see the case available from HD anymore.

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #55 on: January 27, 2018, 06:39:10 PM »
Finally back to the shop . . .

I've seen a number of yellow coils, but the correct black case to yellow plastic transition (paint) line is not clear to me.

On the left in this pic is a repop which I think has the correct line demarcation. None of the yellow 'plastic' portion is painted.
On the right is an original coil, but the plastic or yellow portion of the coil has been painted above the metal band by a restorer.

Is either paint scheme correct, from a concours perspective?

As an aside the original coil says "Dist." with the period included. As does "BAT."
The repop say "DISI" and "BAT" with no period. Odd that such an easy mistake to spot made it through into production.
Bill
Concours 3/2/67 GT350
Driven     6/6/70 0T02G160xxx B302
Modified  5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 2+2
Race       65 Coupe front clip, Convertible frame mods and SFCs; 2+2 conversion; Many 'glass parts

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #56 on: January 27, 2018, 06:53:49 PM »
I've seen a number of yellow coils, but the correct black case to yellow plastic transition (paint) line is not clear to me.

On the left in this pic is a repop which I think has the correct line demarcation. None of the yellow 'plastic' portion is painted.
On the right is an original coil, but the plastic or yellow portion of the coil has been painted above the metal band by a restorer.

Have seen the vast majority of original coils with black over the yellow plastic end To me it always suggested a mask of sorts not often a sharp paint edge. You can find paint "blow outs" around the BAT and DIS post stands but not always
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #57 on: January 27, 2018, 07:18:50 PM »
+1 to the previous restorer !
Bill
Concours 3/2/67 GT350
Driven     6/6/70 0T02G160xxx B302
Modified  5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 2+2
Race       65 Coupe front clip, Convertible frame mods and SFCs; 2+2 conversion; Many 'glass parts

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #58 on: January 27, 2018, 08:08:29 PM »
Have seen the vast majority of original coils with black over the yellow plastic end To me it always suggested a mask of sorts not often a sharp paint edge. You can find paint "blow outs" around the BAT and DIS post stands but not always
+++ 1
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline midlife

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Re: Yellow top coil restoration tip
« Reply #59 on: January 27, 2018, 08:45:27 PM »
The repro coils say "disi" instead of "dist"?  Doesn't anyone know English overseas?