Author Topic: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)  (Read 7968 times)

Offline Ivygreen65

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The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« on: September 13, 2011, 10:06:44 PM »
I wanted to do a quick thread on how I restored my 8" differential.  I see a lot of cars that claim to have a restored 3rd member, while all someone has done is give it a quick spray with Rustoleum red oxide, and voila.  I restored mine using rattle cans, but I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out and it's a project that anyone can do and really upgrade the quality of your car's rear end.


I began by getting my existing diff cleaned and degreased.  That was a major job in itself.  I took good photographs of what markings I found, including measurements.  If you have any rust on the machined areas, now is the time to sand that off.  After you've got it clean and ready to paint, then the masking starts.


I used Rustoleum satin Heritage Red to paint the body of the pumpkin.  This color seems to match the original red oxide pretty closely in both shade and sheen.  I've seen many of them painted with spray can red primer, which is too brown and flat (IMO).  You can see what the original color of red oxide is when you look at the backside of the pumpkin, which has been sealed inside the rear end housing.


After the body is painted, I moved to the machined area of the carrier.  For this area, I used Rustoleum Professional Stainless Steel.  It provides a fairly realistic look of machined iron.  You've got to be sure to note that this flat machined area turns upward, and that lip should also be natural.  The tooling marks make the machined areas obvious.  The bolts are phosphate/oil, and after being caked in leaking rear lube for years, mine just needed a good cleaning.


Next, I refinished the yoke and collar.  I used Duplicolor Cast Iron engine enamel for the yoke.  For the collar, I used Krylon matte Metallic Aluminum.


The detail that I see most people overlook are the machined areas.  I used the Rustoleum Stainless Steel for the machined areas on the lower section of the pumpkin and the machined holes (I'm assuming for balancing) on the yoke.  This is the detail that, I think, sets the restoration apart.
The last step is to replace any markings that were found upon cleaning and disassembly.

One last detailing point is with regard to the gasket.  The readily available Felpro gasket is bigger than the footprint of the pumpkin.  I placed mine on the pumpkin, traced the outline of the pumpkin, and then trimmed it to the same shape.  I then colored the outside edge with a black sharpie to replicate the color of the original black Ford gasket.

While I'm in no way comparing this restoration to the work of others, who take the time to totally dismantle the pumpkin, correctly epoxy paint and re-machine surfaces, and re-plate the appropriate pieces,  I do think that this type of work is well within the realm of almost anyone who wants to spend a little time and effort to upgrade the detail level of their car.   

 

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2011, 11:00:29 PM »
Nice effort and thanks for sharing

Is that a little red overspray on the yoke ?  ;) Sure if it is it will be gone quickly - keep up the good work
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline Ivygreen65

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2011, 11:11:30 PM »
Is that a little red overspray on the yoke ?
It was.

Offline outlawincorporated

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2011, 11:49:30 PM »
Excellent post,  great work and thanks for sharing.

Had a giggle to myself with the formation of the 1 on the pumpkin itself.  looks like someone was following company procedure and making it very clear and legible. others i have seen are not legible and just look like a youngster had applied them.
Making it really tough to apply back on a restored concours car.

regards.

PHILL BERESFORD.
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.
ITS ONLY EVER ORIGINAL ONCE!!!!!

MCA GOLD CARD JUDGE 1ST GENERATION.  MCA #68589

Offline Ivygreen65

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2011, 12:03:10 AM »
Phill,

I am almost of the opinion that the 1 on the top was put on originally with a stamp.  It was very uniform, unlike the other markings.  You can see a little of it in the first picture.  I replicated as exactly as I could.

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2011, 11:08:53 PM »
Had a giggle to myself with the formation of the 1 on the pumpkin itself.  looks like someone was following company procedure and making it very clear and legible. others i have seen are not legible and just look like a youngster had applied them....

Agreed - normally we see a different number in that location and as mentioned no where as neat. Doubt it was a stamp - sort of an odd font for that time period if so. Whom ever number #1 (maybe since we don't see that number often he was a boss or something filling in ;) he was sure proud of that number LOL
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2011, 11:38:31 PM »
The light blue '65 GT convertible I restored 5 or so years ago had a '2' in that area, rather neatly written too.  May '65 Dearborn car, A code 4 speed.
« Last Edit: September 14, 2011, 11:42:13 PM by caspian65 »
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Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2011, 11:47:16 PM »
Just a addition to this interesting thread is before installing the 3rd member don't forget to replicate the machined surface of the rear end housing itself. The flat surface where the gasket is installed is a machined surface and not all of it is covered by the gasket. While you at it the studs that protrude from the rear end housing should be  zinc phosphate or color instead of black like they so often are mistakenly painted.  :) Bob   
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline Ivygreen65

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2011, 11:49:48 PM »
Mine is a June 65 Dearborn C code C4 car.

Offline Bill Cabaniss

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2011, 10:34:56 AM »
Ivygreen, the photo is my 66 coupe I restored in 1990. I used almost the same procedure that you did with spray can paints. I don't remember the brand(too long ago) of the paint. It has survived 21 years in concours driven. Been caught in the rain many times. If done properly these finishes will hold up pretty well. Your pumpkin looks great and will probably hold up well for a long time too.
Highland green 68 GT fastback/concours driven since 2000. 8f02j - 1-23-68
raven black 66 coupe/concours driven since 1991.6f07c- 5-14-66
rangoon red 65 Mustang JR. go-cart serial#02. not driven much.
Still drive them to the nationals/they do clean up! 
Gold card judge for 67-68 concours class.

Offline kutzoh

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2015, 01:19:09 PM »
Stacy-
   Sorry to bring up an old thread but can you repost your pictures?

Thanks,
Greg
64.5 Dearborn coupe, D-Code, June 28, 1964   Skylight Blue


Offline bburns31

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2023, 09:59:10 PM »
What's the best media to use to recreate the markings. I found this yellow/orange 3 that I'd like to recreate to finish off my axle. Everyday grease pens? Paint pens?

66 Mustang Dearborn C Code Sauterne Gold Metallic

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2023, 10:47:43 PM »
What's the best media to use to recreate the markings. I found this yellow/orange 3 that I'd like to recreate to finish off my axle. Everyday grease pens? Paint pens?

Some enamel paint mixed to match the original color and a small size brush just like originally done. I've used small acid brushes for these for decades. Like the ones available in bulk at Harbor Freight.

You might, if this is the only mark you are going to do, get by with a little Testor model paint in the little jar. They have an orange that should be pretty close. General marking, colors and methods are covered in the article in the Library about general paint marks but guess you've already seen and read that article.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2023, 10:51:36 PM by J_Speegle »
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline bburns31

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2023, 07:17:11 PM »
You might, if this is the only mark you are going to do, get by with a little Testor model paint in the little jar. They have an orange that should be pretty close. General marking, colors and methods are covered in the article in the Library about general paint marks but guess you've already seen and read that article.

Thanks and this library once again is amazing as a resource.
66 Mustang Dearborn C Code Sauterne Gold Metallic

Offline bburns31

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Re: The pumpkin and the rattle-can (AKA restoring an 8" 3rd member)
« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2023, 10:45:06 PM »
Almost done. Its not perfect but I'm pretty happy how far it's come since dropping it especially with it being my first rear axle restoration. Thanks to everyone for their help along the way.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2023, 10:53:54 PM by bburns31 »
66 Mustang Dearborn C Code Sauterne Gold Metallic