Topic: 70 Boss 302 -Please critique - Just sharing some pictures of the progress so far

[app01]

Given all of the questions that I have been asking, here are just a few pics of what has been keeping me busy all winter working on my May 70 Dearborn B2. 

Note that the flash on my camera washed some of the colors, so the bottom is  really green and not gold as  some pics show.

Please feel free to comment and point out any things that do not look correct. I still do need to add more soundeading and body and black over spray on the bottom.

Thanks again for all of the help.

Tony


Before:


After:


I was able to find enough of the original green batch primer to have it color matched.





The spring colors really are lavender and gold but the flashed washed it out.

[J_Speegle]

Shows allot of effort.

Not sure how close to done you are - so forgive us if we mention things you have not gotten to yet

Now - since you asked for it

1- Rear wheewells should be body color of over the sound deadener  not the other way around








2- Is the undercarriage color the the exterior, a similar green or allot of body color overspray?

3- Don't forget the pinch weld black out overpray over body color on the rear frame rails, floor, a bit into the rear wheelwells, and the inner sealant around the seat belt mounts (oopps it shows in one picture but not the other two) 







4- Strut rod mounting bolts missing the cotter keys?




5- Rocker to floor pan sealant applied?





6- Trunk drop sealant (at bottom edge ) often dries and falls off of original cars







Enough for now - again great effort and allot of work   !!

[app01]

Thanks for the feedback Jeff. Greatly appreciated. Still lots to do, but some of these things I did not know.

Shows allot of effort.

Not sure how close to done you are - so forgive us if we mention things you have not gotten to yet

Now - since you asked for it

1- Rear wheewells should be body color of over the sound deadener  not the other way around

That was one thing I was not sure on. At least its easy to add yellow body paint

2- Is the undercarriage color the the exterior, a similar green or allot of body color overspray?

The Body is yellow and that green is very close to the batch primer that I found under exhaust clamps and other protected areas.

3- Don't forget the pinch weld black out overpray over body color on the rear frame rails, floor, a bit into the rear wheelwells, and the inner sealant around the seat belt mounts (oopps it shows in one picture but not the other two) 

Good catch on the seat belt mounts. That was an older picture. I still need to add the yellow body overspray, and that pinch weld overspray.

4- Strut rod mounting bolts missing the cotter keys?

The cotter pins are there, but do not show up well in the picture.

5- Rocker to floor pan sealant applied?

If you are referring to the back side of the pinch weld, yes there is a bead of brushed on sealer along that inside edge.

6- Trunk drop sealant (at bottom edge ) often dries and falls off of original cars

Here is a picture. How is this?

[J_Speegle]

................Here is a picture. How is this?

 
Looks messy enough

BTW did you leave the rear end bumpers in place, mask them and then apply the floor color??

[app01]

 
Looks messy enough

BTW did you leave the rear end bumpers in place, mask them and then apply the floor color??

Yes in this case messy is good.. LOL

I did. They were in very good condition and I though trying to pull them out would crack them.  I did  use small brushes and cleaners to get inside and clean the area out as well as used a straw nozzle to make  sure paint got in there. Was that a good choice?

[J_Speegle]

I did. They were in very good condition and I though trying to pull them out would crack them.  I did  use small brushes and cleaners to get inside and clean the area out as well as used a straw nozzle to make  sure paint got in there. Was that a good choice?

I would have pulled them - easier IMHO but as long as you can't see any bare areas around them, no shadows created by them and no paint on them you should get by.

[cobrajetchris]

I question the fact that the wheelhouse should have body color overspray on them as this will stand out terrible. Why would FORD go through the trouble to black out the rocker and qtr. panel pinchwelds that are hardly noticeable and leave a mess like that inside the wheelhouse that is very visible. I can see that the sound deadner may have been applied first in some cases?? but they would have at least blacked it out with some of the same trim paint and maybe over time it came off or the panel was resprayed at some point. This is a common thing that auto body shops miss when repairing panels today. I am sure there is situations were this is factory but I would not think it was common. I would have to see several original unrestored, original paint cars to believe this and even then would look hard for blackout paint that may have flaked off. I am just throwing this out there for further discussion.

[J_Speegle]

I question the fact that the wheelhouse should have body color overspray on them as this will stand out terrible. Why would FORD go through the trouble to black out the rocker and qtr. panel pinchwelds that are hardly noticeable and leave a mess like that inside the wheelhouse that is very visible. I can see that the sound deadener may have been applied first in some cases??...........

Fully understand that it does not fit what Ford was doing in other areas but never met anyone that was in that part of development. Can only report that I've seen thousands of original paint 65-71 Mustangs with body color rear wheelwells and have hundreds of pictures documenting the same.

Often the body color (if the mileage is higher or the choice of roads were poor) can be worn off and in the 70-80's the judging standard was that the sound deadener was applied last. Think we've been able to see more original cars due to the internet and sharing  and if you find my really old post around the web there was a time when I thought that half may have been blacked (something I always did when I brought home a Mustang or Shelby) unfortunately stripping many wheelwells of original paint cars in yards (to figure out each layer, how they were applied and when) I've given up that opinion.


" I would have to see several original unrestored, original paint cars to believe this "  can't help you in person but if pictures will do I'm glad to share   ANy particular plant and year you want to start with?

As for for black out - its typically to get a blast from the spray gun at the front and rear (with overspray onto the frame rail) of the wheelwell as the gun tailed off and began again.


Sometimes its difficult to find examples where the contrast shows up well but here are a few examples to start with















Not sure if I would agree that blacking out the pinchweld is a little or hardly noticeable  especially on a 70 Mach I for example. What would be a better example IMHO would be the lower tab on the lower grill bar on a 65-66. Tab was maybe 3/8" x 1" and they blacked it out

If you would like we can start a new thread to give us some room to post and discuss without going off thread - Sorry Tony

[app01]

Completely fine.. These are good discussions that we can all learn from.

Looking at your pictures it does look like the amount of body color  in the rear wheel wells did vary quite a bit. Just to confirm the order of things in that area: batch primer, then sound deadner, and finally body color-  with some batch primer and sound deadner  possibly exposed in areas?

Do you have any Dearborn examples of around May 70?

Thanks

[J_Speegle]

First want to mention that the comments above are not directed at NJ  built cars. Not allot of unrusted cars are available and what we do have is mixed changing from year to year so at this point its difficult IMHO to make good sense out of the information we have at this point for every year there and those are best dealt with individually

...............Looking at your pictures it does look like the amount of body color  in the rear wheel wells did vary quite a bit.

Guess I'm not seeing what your seeing.  Please understand that some of the examples have seen up to and over 100,000 miles so wear and tear of the original paint would be considerable, especially long the center of the wheelwell where dirt, gravel and such would be thrown by the tire. Lowest mileage car of the examples would be the second white car picture. Can't see where much of the wheel well would be missed as a painter applied paint to the rear fender lip with a high pressure high volume gun (very different from today's guns) as well as passing the gun over the opening as they painted the quarter panel

Readdressing Chris's comment I thing it will be difficult to prove that any black out of the rear wheelwells was factory. Not sure how you can determine between what earlier owners put on the car and what would have been done at the plant though you can often show when the black out was added by owners  like so many of us did. Ford example I've done the pinch welds and rear wheel black on just about every daily drivers I've owned - last one a 2000 Ford truck - body colored pinch welds just stand out too much for me

Just to confirm the order of things in that area: batch primer, then sound deadener, and finally body color-  with some batch primer and sound deadener  possibly exposed in areas?

If were are discussing just the 70 and just the rear wheel wells, you have batch color to maybe mid way (with some addition overspray outward) out from the frame and then some gray primer overspray from the exterior application (do have a few scrubbed examples that suggest red oxide before these first coats - possibly panels painted prior to their arrival at the plant). Then sound deadener then body color.

You can often find bare steel and or a thin line/edge of sound deadener hidden behind the fender lip where the angle of the exterior color did not allow for application as well as pockets in the  floor (between the wheel well and frame rail) where shadows were produced by the wheel well lip, rocker and such

Do you have any Dearborn examples of around May 70?

Looked at what I have but most are dirty with signs of body color across the surface under the dirt- really not as clear as in person, sorry not allot of people have scrubbed their original rear wheel wells and provided them.

[app01]

Thanks again. Your comment about red oxide in the area reminded me of something. When I was stripping that area there were slight signs of red oxide near the  inner lip near the axle bumper area but it was very faint.

I already have the underside batch primer, and sound deadner done, so I am going to apply body color to the rear well area next. Fortunately this is an area that is easy to keep adding more paint till it looks correct.

[app01]

Here are a few pictures of the updated rear wheel  areas based upon the examples provided. I tried to spray the paint as the operator would have, including to get the shadowed area on the frame.

How does this look?

[J_Speegle]

Here are a few pictures of the updated rear wheel  areas based upon the examples provided. I tried to spray the paint as the operator would have, including to get the shadowed area on the frame.

How does this look?

Looking good .

Haven't installed the fuel line yet??? That's going to be fun with everything else in the way 

[app01]

Thanks.

Oh that rubber hose stuff is nice and flexible and I can weave it around the areas.... Joking of course..  LOL The gas tank is  not in yet, and I may have to drop the rear sway.