Topic: Hood hinge rebuild and a strange day in Septemeber

[livetoride60]

Going to send my hood hinges off to SMS for rebuilding, and had a few questions.  First off, they look to be originally some of the black semi gloss ones.  My car is an Oct 64 SJ, so think that lines up.  Have a comment from Charles here http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5812.msg32689#msg32689 saying the transition from black to phosphate & oil occurred in the Fall of '64. 

Next you can see the rivet detail in the pictures.  SMS can reproduce the stamped X on one side, but doesn't have rivets with the concentric circles and + sign on the head.  Theirs have a "swirl".  I'd rather not lose that original detail, but seems worth it to have tight hinges.  Any thoughts...on concours judging or otherwise?

Finally, you'll see in the last picture one hinge was produced on Sep 32nd (assuming I'm reading it right), a very unique date.  If so, can't I advertise my Fastback as a 1 of 1?   

[Bob Gaines]

Going to send my hood hinges off to SMS for rebuilding, and had a few questions.  First off, they look to be originally some of the black semi gloss ones.  My car is an Oct 64 SJ, so think that lines up.  Have a comment from Charles here http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5812.msg32689#msg32689 saying the transition from black to phosphate & oil occurred in the Fall of '64. 

Next you can see the rivet detail in the pictures.  SMS can reproduce the stamped X on one side, but doesn't have rivets with the concentric circles and + sign on the head.  Theirs have a "swirl".  I'd rather not lose that original detail, but seems worth it to have tight hinges. Any thoughts...on concours judging or otherwise?
Finally, you'll see in the last picture one hinge was produced on Sep 32nd (assuming I'm reading it right), a very unique date.  If so, can't I advertise my Fastback as a 1 of 1?   

Don't rebuild unless you have to.  Most don't need to even after 50 years. Why do you think you need to? Find another set that doesn't need to be rebuilt.

[jwc66k]

Don't rebuild unless you have to.  Most don't need to even after 50 years. Why do you think you need to? Find another set that doesn't need to be rebuilt.

Exactly. I usually bead blast, some shots of compressed air, lightly phosphate and squirt some oil in the pivot spots. Unless there is some damage, it's cheaper to refinish vs a rebuild.
Jim
Added a picture of a pair of hood hinges I did about two years ago. Yes, they are too dark and I intend on fixing that in a couple of months.

[livetoride60]

Ok, now I'm considering just refinishing myself.  Thanks for the comments.  The reason I was going to rebuild is one had some slop in it, and had read of others having it done.  Yes, it will definitely save some $$$ to just refinish, or find another pair. 

Jim or Bob - do you remove the spring when you blast and refinish?  I was wondering how you would get in between the coils otherwise...or maybe that's not necessary?

[Bob Gaines]

Ok, now I'm considering just refinishing myself.  Thanks for the comments.  The reason I was going to rebuild is one had some slop in it, and had read of others having it done.  Yes, it will definitely save some $$$ to just refinish, or find another pair. 

Jim or Bob - do you remove the spring when you blast and refinish?  I was wondering how you would get in between the coils otherwise...or maybe that's not necessary?

I remove the spring . It has never been a issue in cleaning and or plating for me however but I can understand your concern. FYI the zinc phosphate process will sometimes take out a little bit of slop in the hinge pivot points depending on how heavy they are plated. 

[jwc66k]

If the hinges are still on the car, use the hook from a racket type a tie down strap on the spring's end and pull to remove, reverse to install. If they are off the car, a (large) bench vice works. To tighten up a pivot point, use a large hammer on the pins, with moderation. The biggest problem I have is getting all the glass beads out.
Jim

[rockhouse66]

I just did a pair of hinges and, overall, these parts are on the upper end of "pain" for me with respect to blasting.  Lots of edges, corners, nooks and crannies.  And you need to blast them open and closed to get all of the surfaces.  The springs are awkward too.  I hook the end on the grate in my blast cabinet and bend them a little while I blast to get in between the coils.

On the set I just did, I plated the springs separately and used manganese phospate on them instead of the zinc, to get a darker finish and some contrast.  Not sure this makes them more or less "correct" though?  The contrast does look nice IMO.

[cobrajetchris]

I personally went through several sets of hinges on my 69 before I was satisfied with the hood fit as most original and N.O.S hinges I have found have some slop in them and ANY slop in a hinge will cause fit issues with the hood. I talked with SMS about rebuilding my original hinges and he guaranteed there would be no play in the pivot points. I sent him the hinges and had them rebuild and phosphate coat and couldn't be more satisfied. The hood fits great and the hinges look correct in every way. He did have the correct X type rivets for my era and I understand your concern with not having the correct style rivet however I would rather have a good fitting hood that opens and closes smooth than a sloppy one with the correct rivets. Just my opinion of course, and maybe you can find a tight original hinge but before I would spend all the time blasting and painting or plating I would fit it on the car first to make sure you are satisfied with the fit and function of the hood.

[ChrisV289]

Anyone else use SMS to rebuild their hinges?  Unfortunately the driver side hinge has too much play in it and is causing the hood to go to the side and hit the passenger side fender now.  The driver side hinge has the latest date code I could find on the car of 10/26 (1964).  I sent an e-mail for a price quote but would like to hear others experiences. 

[67350#1242]

When blasting and phosphating the springs, you can stretch them out a little to open up the coils. I have used a slotted hardwood dowel of the right length thru the middle of the spring and hooked the ends over.  Works great - phosphate with the wood in place.

[livetoride60]

When blasting and phosphating the springs, you can stretch them out a little to open up the coils. I have used a slotted hardwood dowel of the right length thru the middle of the spring and hooked the ends over.  Works great - phosphate with the wood in place.

Great tip.

[jwc66k]

When blasting and phosphating the springs, you can stretch them out a little to open up the coils. I have used a slotted hardwood dowel of the right length thru the middle of the spring and hooked the ends over.  Works great - phosphate with the wood in place.

You mean like this? I made this spring "stretcher" to do the same. Standard Mustang hood springs are a bit stiffer than on Shelby's. It's made from 3/4 inch square tubing with 3/8-16 threaded rod, 3/8 flat washers and 3/8 nuts. The washers act more as thrust washers giving a better surface to turn the nuts. Sorry for the rust. It was a wet winter in Northern California.
Jim