Author Topic: RUST 911 Rust Dissolver  (Read 5799 times)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: RUST 911 Rust Dissolver
« Reply #15 on: August 11, 2016, 12:59:50 PM »
OK, bit the bullet and bought yet another gallon of the 911  :o ::)

Another issue I noticed while trying to dip the hood in segments, NOT getting it fully submerged...I had "High Water Lines" etched into the metal.

This time around, I decided to call the vendor & discuss the project with the RUST 911 product provider, I also brought up my flash rust issue with him.

He suggested to use their "METAL SHIELD 2009" product  and since I also mentioned this thread discussion (no doubt a surge in ORDERS from this thread  ;) ) he sent me a sample to use at NO additional charge. I expressed concerns of "cleaning it off" before painting and he assured me to not worry about that. (normal paint prep procedures would work fine)

NOW, with the new bottle of 911 Rust Dissolver, I this time SANDWICHED my hood between the donor outer skin and the donor inner structure and two layers of 6MIL. plastic sheathing to again maximize the 16 gallons of product and getting a full submersion.

A simple overnight soak and I pulled the freshly re-dipped hood out, absolutely NO RUST anymore inside. Using some of the 911 Dissolver, I did a coarse steel wool scrubbing of the top side first (with it leaning against a wall), followed by a quick rinse with water and an immediate light spray coating of their Metal Shield 2009. Then I turned the hood around to tackle the underside, scrubbing about 6-10 inches of the structure at a time worked out great. I then flipped the hood over once more to again treat the top side as needed.

Honestly, I think this hood is GALVANIZED, is that possible?

Oh, and THIS time, the product was almost CLEAR when finished....Bottled up and ready for the next project(s) ;)  Since I own a auto repair shop, I simply used old WS Washer Fluid bottles I had been holding on to for such an occasion as this  ;)
« Last Edit: August 11, 2016, 01:37:55 PM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: RUST 911 Rust Dissolver
« Reply #16 on: May 21, 2018, 02:49:15 PM »
I have been working over the insides of my doors the last few weeks, repairing rust-out on my drivers door and preventing further rusting on both doors. I did use the RUST911 again for this and actually just ordered yet another (4th gallon over time). I REALLY like this stuff! Since you get 16 gallons for about $60...and it works so nicely, I haven't bought any other product for this job since my first gallon 2-years ago!

I just thought I would add a detail I feel will help other restorers dealing with the potential of rust-out down the road in the "hidden" areas.

So, my original doors look to have been galvanized steel, like the hood, fenders and probably most of the car sheet metal. Once the ZINC is off the metal, future life of the metal will be shortened. I learned this the hard way on my drivers door I am afraid. I thought I FIXED it back in 1985 from getting worse when I found a tiny blister in the front corner way back then.

Being from Ohio, I knew rust in 1985. I was then living in Palm Springs area, my 67 Mustang had been initially from the High Dessert area and I lived in the Low Dessert so the car was always HOT & DRY, why then RUST in the front corner of my original drivers door?

It's a TRAP! There is a trap in the front corners of our Mustang doors that retain dirt, debris and MOISTURE. In '85, when I cut my door open to expose the cause of my paint blister, I found this out. I sandblasted the opening I cut into the door skin, removed ALL of the rust I could reach, removed the door panel, cleaned everything inside the bottom of the door off, blasted whatever was rusty and shot undercoating on everything bare that I could see. The outside skin had already been "brazed" in so I simply body-filled the corner and repainted just the driver door. (no signs of any issues on the passengers door back then).

Fast-Forward to about a month ago and I stripped my doors down to the shells to clean then up and to get ready for paint. What I found next was SHOCKING!

I had already noticed another blister in my driver door, in the same area I had patched. The passengers door still looked pretty good but I could make out a faint, tiny blister there, in the same area. Not surprising, but what WAS surprising was when I removed my driver door lower weatherstripping, the whole front corner came out with it! All of what I THOUGHT I had protected so many years ago, was what looked like a TOTAL LOSS, but WHY? The passengers door I had never touched was all but perfect on the outside surfaces and I never did anything to it so many years ago, that and THAT door came from another parts donor back in 1978 so history of that door was anyone's guess!

I figured it out. I CREATED MY OWN PROBLEM! I "sandblasted" it to remove rust but without the original galvanized (zinc) coating, some areas were now BARE STEEL and the same garbage I took out of the TRAP so many years ago had returned too so the dirt was holding moisure on bare metal probably 99% of the time! You know, car washes, dessert dity blowing around getting car dirty, wash cat again, and again what 1-2 times a week?

I HAVE A SOLUTION! Recently, we have been discussing repairing textured surfaces on the INSIDES of our door assemblies so even though I thought my original door was probably rusted too bad to fix, I DID HAVE ANOTHER DRIVER DOOR that, though off a wrecked car, dented worse than I wanted to fix also, it had a section I could cut out of it to graft into my original drivers door. That was the easier part. NEXT, I need to get all the rest of the RUST OFF everything but more importantly, to PROTECT THE HIDDEN AREAS AS MUCH AS WHAT CAN BE SEEN AND COATED. Those front corner traps are just that, now after media-blasting now BOTH doors, I needed something to 100% coat them so that no water, moisture or dirt or debris can get in there ever again...The SOLUTION: Fiberglass resin (and gravity)!

Between the pictures below and the YouTube links which videos are only about a minute or so long each it explains a lot more then what words can say. Obviously I still need to move on to fixing the textured surfaces and such but I'm almost where the insides of the doors are done ( once I get another can of the RUST911 to finish the 2nd door)



« Last Edit: May 21, 2018, 04:03:25 PM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline 67gta289

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Re: RUST 911 Rust Dissolver
« Reply #17 on: February 12, 2020, 11:49:18 AM »
+1 made the switch from Evaporust to RUST 911 and am not looking back.

Evaporust is about $22 per gallon.  If you get a 5 gallon drum the price drops to about $16 per gallon.  Not including shipping or time and mileage driving to the store.

RUST 911, shipped to your door free, is about $3.75 per gallon after mixing with water.  I make as little or as much as I need, when I need it.  Doesn't take up much space in the gallon concentrate.

John
67 289 GTA Dec 20 1966 San Jose
7R02C156xxx
MCA 74660

Offline Bossbill

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Re: RUST 911 Rust Dissolver
« Reply #18 on: February 12, 2020, 07:33:20 PM »
Willing to consider anything I can get locally since I plan to pull it out of the bath in the am

Bit too late, but not for others . . .

I've had my ashtray cover and glovebox door laying around in the shop, unpainted,  for about 2 years now and no rust.

I take Prep & Etch (P&E) -- full strength -- and spray it on freshly media blasted or sanded metal. Then wipe it down with a paper towel and then blow it dry with air. If you don't wipe it streaks occur. Otherwise it leaves a nice dull zinc phosphate look that rivals hot zinc phosphate, but lighter. It removes slight amounts of rust and leave a protective coating.

When I did my fenders they were dipped, etched and phophated and I simply took the spray gun with DP in it, narrowed the fan down until I could spray it in a very narrow pattern and just hosed it into the hidden areas, letting it just drip out. In area you later see, sand down any runs and spray a smooth coat.

As for Rust911, it works good but when it turns really black it's done. I may have to buy a 55 gallon drum when I do the MGA and just soak the whole car.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion