Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Processes, Products & Techniques

Process used to restore my original two piece Kelsey Hayes Rotors

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Morsel:
Hi all,

This was the process I used to restore my original two piece Kelsey Hayes rotors. I promised Bob I would post this with pictures ;)

1) Took many pictures of the rotors before I started to document position of the hubs on the rotors, also kept track of which hub went with which rotor through the restoring process. This is done so you don’t have to worry about the balance of the rotor once it comes time for re-assembly. Especially taking note of where the welded weight was in the fins compared to the slot cutout on the hubs.

2) Took the rotors to a machine shop and had them press out the studs while keeping the rotors and hubs and studs together as individual sets.

3) Cleaned thoroughly and soaked each piece in Evaporust for two days.

4) Blasted each piece in my blasting cabinet carefully and thoroughly, and then wiped down to remove any dust and grime from the blasting process.

5) Gun Blued the studs, heated them up very hot with a torch and then dropped them in engine oil to seal and coat and give the nice finish. Then sprayed with T9/Boeshield.

6) Taped up each rotor fully to only expose the inside of the fin area, needed to paint the inside without over painting the rest of the rotor. Painted with Eastwood Factory Grey High Temp paint. (Jeff was wondering how I was going to do this)

7) Removed the tape and painted the full rotors and hubs with three very light coats of the same Eastwood Factory Grey High Temp paint, making sure everything was coated well. Then Baked in the oven at 500 degrees for 45 mins to cure the paint. (almost forgot, after this I installed the racers in the hubs)

8) Took the hubs back to the machine shop and had them machine and clean up the surface where the wheel sits against and the vertical wall next to the wheel surface (but not all the way up). They removed as little material as possible, just to clean the surface, don’t let them take too much off.

9) Still keeping everything together for each rotor, I took the parts back to the machine shop and had the studs pressed back together in the exact same position they were original in as mentioned at the beginning for balancing purposes, made sure I was very clear to them about that.

10) after they were pressed back together, took them to a brake shop and had them turn the rotors, again, only removing the paint and to clean the surface, as little material taken off as possible.

That’s it, about 15 hours of my time and about $150 from the machine and brake shop.

Hope this helps people in the future seeing this process, I think they came out great.

Thanks,

Jason

J_Speegle:
Nice job - thanks for sharing with everyone

evantugby:
clear, concise and visuals.  Excellent work!

ruppstang:
Very nice work.

OldGuy:
What blast media did you use to "clean" the rotor pieces?

Fantastic job, by the way! Thanks for sharing.

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