Author Topic: Ball Joint seperator  (Read 2004 times)

Offline Stangly

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Ball Joint seperator
« on: February 28, 2014, 10:18:31 PM »
Can anybody point me in the direction of a good quality ball joint separator tool that won't cause damage to the piece.  The only thing I can buy locally is the pickle fork type.
69 Sports Roof 302 2V (numbers matching)
Dearborn (June build date) Acapulco Blue
68 Coupe J-Code
San Jose (June build date) Sea Foam Green
2001 V6 Laser Red
2015 GT Deep Impact Blue

Offline Brian Conway

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Re: Ball Joint seperator
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2014, 12:56:52 PM »
https://www.google.com/search?biw=1477&bih=735&q=suspension+ball+joint+separator+tools&spell=1&sa=X&ei=jBASU7foJY_loAS314DABg&ved=0CCIQvwUoAA
     Might find something here ?  I usually borrow a real nice one a friend has and requires the use of a socket and ratchet.   These guys can get pretty expensive.  My biggest problem using a pickle is finding enough room to swing a hammer.  Crude, effective and cheap.  Brian
« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 01:04:39 PM by Brian Conway »
5RO9A GT  4 Spd Built 5/29/65
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Offline suskeenwiske

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Re: Ball Joint seperator
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2014, 01:23:53 PM »
I personally avoid using the fork altogether but if you end up buying one, make sure that it's of high quality. What I mean by this is that, there are cheap forks that splinter at the point of impact when using a conventional hardened steel hammer or if the end mushrooms on you, that means the steel is of poor quality and the fork shaft actually bends absorbing much of the impact. A Brass Hammer may be a better choice to avoid splintering and mushrooming.

I've been most successful by using a Puller when possible; leave the nut from whatever you're separating partially threaded on to help prevent things from flying should it suddenly break free. I've also been able to strike the opposite sides of what I'm trying to free by using two hammers; you just have to time it so they impact at the same time, see photo. The last methods is to use heat. The problem very often is the potential damage caused to seals and boots; if that doesn't matter, then no problem. For those cases that are sensitive, I purchased a tiny Butane Torch that you can pick up at Radio Shack, Electronic Parts Suppliers, Harbor Freight, etc. They emit a tiny blast torch type of flame that is concentrated in a very small area and still able to produce enough heat to be effective.

I've attached a few photos of pullers that work well, most if not all, are available from Harbor Freight, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Sears, On-line, etc.

All the best.

Ray
Ray
1965 Dearborn Coupe
6 Cylinder, AT, PB, PS, AC
Est. Build 23A

Offline Stangly

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Re: Ball Joint seperator
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2014, 08:36:38 PM »
Thanks guys for the links and pics.  Ray the one in the second photo looks similar to the one in the ford service manual.  I will check out summit and harbor freight.

Thank you!
69 Sports Roof 302 2V (numbers matching)
Dearborn (June build date) Acapulco Blue
68 Coupe J-Code
San Jose (June build date) Sea Foam Green
2001 V6 Laser Red
2015 GT Deep Impact Blue

Offline suskeenwiske

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Re: Ball Joint seperator
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2014, 09:11:30 PM »
I need to mention that the Separator in the 2nd photo is designed for the Lower Ball Joint, I'm not sure if it'll also work on the Upper Ball Joint.

Ray
Ray
1965 Dearborn Coupe
6 Cylinder, AT, PB, PS, AC
Est. Build 23A

Offline rodster

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Re: Ball Joint seperator
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2014, 10:20:45 PM »
I personally ........

All the best.

Ray

Great tips and pics! 
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1967 Dearborn Mustang Conv.
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Offline jwc66k

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Re: Ball Joint seperator
« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2014, 12:42:10 AM »
I haven't use a pickle fork in a long time, but I have a ball joint remover tool that puts pressure on the ball stud end, and with a sharp whack on the side of the spindle or center link with a ball peen hammer, they usually pop off.
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.