Author Topic: Heater Box  (Read 16844 times)

Offline kammertime

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #30 on: April 18, 2016, 09:56:38 PM »
Are the wires on the motor available?  One of mine is split and frayed at the rubber grommet.

Thanks,
John

Offline 67350#1242

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #31 on: April 18, 2016, 10:07:03 PM »
« Last Edit: April 18, 2016, 10:15:39 PM by 67350#1242 »
67 Coupe SJ 11/16/66
67 GT350 SJ 2/01/67

Offline Vcode

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #32 on: April 18, 2016, 10:17:07 PM »

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #33 on: April 18, 2016, 11:23:29 PM »
Are the wires on the motor available?  One of mine is split and frayed at the rubber grommet.

Did you happen to read the article in the library?

You'll find it in any of the 65-68 sections (including the Shelby one also) under

- Heater Motor Feed Cable- Repairing - Part I
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #34 on: April 19, 2016, 08:17:41 AM »
A few things I'd like to mention/ask: (this topic being adapted for use on my 67 with Select-Aire)

1.) I believe the sealer used between the two halves of the case was black strip-caulk (like 3M sells). Unless otherwise suggested NOT to use this, my plan was to roll out a very thin strip and level it off in the groove of the one side of the case.

2.) I am also ready to glue my new foam onto the internal doors (~the light grey ones). Also ready to attach/reattach the heater core and evaporator seals/gaskets (black ones). I could use suggestions for a good adhesive that will not react to the foam in the kit I have. I am thinking 3M spray for the grey foam on the doors and maybe "The Right Stuff" by Permatex on the black foam around the heater core and evaporator.

3.) If the case halves looks reasonably clean, should I avoid "clear coating" them if at all possible? (keep in mind the 67-68 AC case is visable under the dash/glovebox area so I want this to look sharp)
Any other good idea before I go together?

The internal doors, shafts, hardware & internal plates have all been Evaporust cleaned, then I use steel wool on the plates & doors. (everything looks very nice so far ;) ) The (12) clips which hold the two halves of the case together have also been stripped of rust and re-dipped in black paint (similar to original ~obviously there was very little care given to the original painting process used on these clips)

I have just a little more rust removal on the collar that joints the AC/Heater case together to the separate blower box (plan is to run again through the Evaporust, then Boeshield T-9 the bare metal collar), still need to repaint the fresh air and recirculation grille inlets so this all goes together by this weekend.

All previous help here appreciated. For me, it is very easy to get the "functional" portion right...I am focussing on input needed to duplicate Concours detailing.

Thanks in advance.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2016, 08:22:40 AM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #35 on: April 19, 2016, 10:43:08 PM »
A few things I'd like to mention/ask: (this topic being adapted for use on my 67 with Select-Aire)

1.) I believe the sealer used between the two halves of the case was black strip-caulk (like 3M sells). Unless otherwise suggested NOT to use this, my plan was to roll out a very thin strip and level it off in the groove of the one side of the case.

What I've used



2.) I am also ready to glue my new foam onto the internal doors ...............

Test first. Have found some of these thin open foam sheets will desolve quickly using the wrong type or too much adhesive. Happens fast with some thin sheets - Poof!!!


3.) If the case halves looks reasonably clean, should I avoid "clear coating" them if at all possible? (keep in mind the 67-68 AC case is visable under the dash/glovebox area so I want this to look sharp)
Any other good idea before I go together?

If the case is very nice - grain visible, no repairs, smooth flat exterior surface I thing I would not use a clear. On the back side I would test to see what Back to Black will produced when applied. Can restore the deeper, consistent finish on plastic pieces (used it on console bodies and other plastic items around the car. May require (depending on how the car is stored and local condition, reapplying once a year or before an important show to the visible area.

I would at least give it a try. There are a number of others here that have done some nice examples of the 65-68 non-AC heater housing. Their threads might mention what they used or hopefully this will respond here.
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #36 on: April 20, 2016, 02:43:16 PM »
OK....Cross my fingers & SHOOT it!!!

The "gasket" or "foam" kit I have does NOT have anything for the heater core but is complete on everything else (except adhesives or other sealants).

For the heater core, I removed, & cleaned the 2 side seal & end seals. Using "The Right Suff" (trademark name by Permatex), I secured them within a clamping fixture onto a new copper/brass heater core. I had a NOS C9 heater core but the end seals were not exactly the same (heater core is the same).

For the installation of the foam (silver in color) onto the doors, I used 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive, since it claims will work on foam. I masked off areas of the door where the foam did not cover, sprayed a light coat onto a wiped-down-clean, rust-free doors. (cleaned using lacquer thinner & rag), light coat of spray on the door and a very light spray on the attaching surface of the foam. It stuck down VERY well. I hope it all stays.

The top half of my case, after removing all rust & repainting all items originally painted, (all masked in place, I did not remove any of the factory rivets) I cleaned good as I could with Simple Green, avoiding the paper tag & "8 CYL" ink stamping. I masked those off with a reversed tape-over-tape & duct tape to keep it water tight during this step. Afterwards, I used some WD-40 sprayed onto a rag & wiped down the unpainted fiberglass case. This looks very good so I will do the same steps to the lower case too.

(not liking this particular task...much [corrosion] damage from rodent urine)

Something else I noticed while taking this all apart, where the AC/Heater fresh air inlet to the cowl connected, there was a rather large glop (about 1 inch wide) of sealant (caulking) towards the left of the opening that looks like the cowl must have been leaking either at the factory or possibly an early service fix. You can see the outline of the glop in the photo attached. This might explain a bit of why there was so much more rust on the inside of the passengers floor than anywhere else on the floorpan. It looks like the glop forced any leakage to behind the cowl insulation and down under the carpeting. A real nice hack-job "FIX"...must have been before Duck Tape ;)
« Last Edit: April 20, 2016, 03:58:03 PM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline krelboyne

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #37 on: April 20, 2016, 03:40:54 PM »
The foam end caps are reproduced by Scott Drake. Two different part numbers, one set for 'with A/C', the other without.
Scott Behncke - Carcheaologist
West Coast Classic Cougars
503-463-1130
1968 GT/CS 302-4V San Jose 05B
1968 Cougar XR7 Dearborn 09A

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Heater Box
« Reply #38 on: May 02, 2017, 05:30:40 PM »
Discussion of 67-70 AC/Heater vacuum pod finish was split off and is posted here

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15897.0
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)