ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: rrenz on September 01, 2017, 09:09:27 PM
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In the process of replacing my rear bumper. Just finished restoring the Tag light and was curious about the Philips head mounting hardware to the pumper. Ive seen both chrome finishes and black. Does anyone have any insight? I currently have what appear to be phosphate screws. Hardware sheet says S 39. wasn't able to find that finish code here. According to the boss registry S 39 is cadmium plate.
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Yes its cad. So most (since Cad can be difficult to do or find someone to do it ) it to use a dulled down zinc.
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Thanks. Anyone know why there are also black screws being sold. I was at my local mustang supplier this morning and saw some black ones listed as "factory Correct". Also saw the Black screws being used on a car from the Virginia Classic Mustang Blog..
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In the process of replacing my rear bumper. Just finished restoring the Tag light and was curious about the Philips head mounting hardware to the pumper. Ive seen both chrome finishes and black. Does anyone have any insight? I currently have what appear to be phosphate screws. Hardware sheet says S 39. wasn't able to find that finish code here. According to the boss registry S 39 is cadmium plate.
If you are working on a 66, the screws should be -S36, gold zinc. Ford used a gold zinc finish in electrical applications, the screws provide electrical ground.
Jim
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I use 2 gallons of hydrochloric acid in a 8 gallon plastic bucket for cleaning rusted parts. I dipped some sheet metal pieces and pulled them out of the acid and dunked them into a bucket of hot water and baking soda to see what would happen. The parts bucket started boiling furiously and calmed down after a few seconds then I washed the metal with hot dawn soap and water scrubbing them thoroughly.
I forgot about a rusty pair of pliers in the acid and weeks later it was gone, completely dissolved! Muriatic acid is dirty hydrochloric acid and costs the same.
I set them on a shelf to dry and forgot about it. A coupe of days later I remembered about them and pulled them off the shelf expecting to see a rusty mess. To my surprise they we're grey steel with no rust and it's been very humid here. It seems that the conversion created a passivation that protected the metal. I'm going to try mixing automotive silver base coat paint in with the baking soda to see if a nice finish can be imparted into the metal unless someone has another suggestion.
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............. To my surprise they we're grey steel with no rust and it's been very humid here. It seems that the conversion created a passivation that protected the metal. I'm going to try mixing automotive silver base coat paint in with the baking soda to see if a nice finish can be imparted into the metal unless someone has another suggestion.
What are you trying to reproduce? Bare steel or something else?
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Hey Jeff, always a pleasure.
There was a thing on a TV car show where a part was placed in a tank of solution. Floating on the top of the solution was a decal of sorts. The part was pulled from the tank under the decal which stuck to the part and looked fantastic.
The idea is to replicate that process with fasteners that will look like cadmium when finished. Cadmium is dangerous to work with Cadplating is CdCN (cadmium cyanide),and it's possible that a substitution is out there that would be concourse correct and not rust under the washer.
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Hey Jeff, always a pleasure.
There was a thing on a TV car show where a part was placed in a tank of solution. Floating on the top of the solution was a decal of sorts. The part was pulled from the tank under the decal which stuck to the part and looked fantastic.
The idea is to replicate that process with fasteners that will look like cadmium when finished. Cadmium is dangerous to work with Cadplating is CdCN (cadmium cyanide),and it's possible that a substitution is out there that would be concourse correct and not rust under the washer.
Yes this was popular for a couple of months LOL with the custom car people. They printed designs like $100,000 bills, pot leaves and so on for some of the baby carriage wheels they were putting on the cars. Think they still needed a clear coat so if that is so the final look will look more like heavy power coating with the dipped in plastic look. Also consider that bare steel is not a mono tone finish , one of the problems with using paint or powder coating finishes. If you grab a piece of new bare steel and lay it next to just about any of these it will stand out allot
But good luck with the project - takes a few failures to find the answer sometimes.
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Thought id leave a update to this. Purchased a repro tag light. Replaced the wire with a spare oil sender wire I had laying around. Used a vinyl dye to reproduce the correct color. Re used my original glass and wire grommet. Stamped my original markings into it and installed with the Cadmium screws. Thanks for all the replies.
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Is that a black screw above the decal holding the valance to the taillight panel?
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Is that a black screw above the decal holding the valance to the taillight panel?
Appears to be a dark phosphate not painted body color.
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That's supposed to be body color I take it?
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Appears to be a dark phosphate not painted body color.
That's supposed to be body color I take it?
I thought that only the third screw in from either side of the 11 were painted body color, and the remaining nine are clear zinc.
Jim
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That's supposed to be body color I take it?
Yes given (in his signature) where ti was built
I thought that only the third screw in from either side of the 11 were painted body color, and the remaining nine are clear zinc.
Could be 2nd or 3rd depending on time period and worker at the station if it was built at San Jose in 66. Different plant different procedure
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That's supposed to be body color I take it?
Yes given (in his signature) where ti was built
That screw seems to be the one in the center, number six from either side, so did Metuchen use a screw in the middle to hang the rear valence as well as either end and would therefor all three would be painted?
Did Metuchen use phosphated round washer head screws? I think that answer is yes, time period specific.
Jim
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That screw seems to be the one in the center, number six from either side, so did Metuchen use a screw in the middle to hang the rear valence as well as either end and would therefor all three would be painted?
Did Metuchen use phosphated round washer head screws? I think that answer is yes, time period specific.
Jim
NJ and Dearborn installed all of the mounting screws at one time - prior to painting the car. Just left it hanging and pulled the bottom into the car at the bottom after body color was applied at all three plants
Types of screws changed during different time periods at San Jose during 65 and 66 production. Don't have as much info (nor enough examples reflecting the full year) on the exact screws used through out their building of the early cars there
Looking at what I do have I see regular pan head screws being used on late cars 6TC243575 plus range while I do have an example in the early months of production, 6T1100xxx range, with screws similar to what the poster has in that center location