1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year > 1964 1/2 - 1965

S 39 Finish

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rrenz:
In the process of replacing my rear bumper. Just finished restoring the Tag light and was curious about the Philips head mounting hardware to the pumper. Ive seen both chrome finishes and black. Does anyone have any insight? I currently have what appear to be phosphate screws. Hardware sheet says S 39. wasn't able to find that finish code here. According to the boss registry S 39 is cadmium plate.

J_Speegle:
Yes its cad. So most (since Cad can be difficult to do or find someone to do it ) it to use a dulled down zinc.

rrenz:
Thanks. Anyone know why there are also black screws being sold. I was at my local mustang supplier this morning and saw some black ones listed as "factory Correct". Also saw the Black screws being used on a car from the Virginia Classic Mustang Blog..

jwc66k:

--- Quote from: rrenz on September 01, 2017, 09:09:27 PM ---In the process of replacing my rear bumper. Just finished restoring the Tag light and was curious about the Philips head mounting hardware to the pumper. Ive seen both chrome finishes and black. Does anyone have any insight? I currently have what appear to be phosphate screws. Hardware sheet says S 39. wasn't able to find that finish code here. According to the boss registry S 39 is cadmium plate.

--- End quote ---
If you are working on a 66, the screws should be -S36, gold zinc. Ford used a gold zinc finish in electrical applications, the screws provide electrical ground.
Jim

69cobrajetrugae2:
I use 2 gallons of hydrochloric acid in a 8 gallon plastic bucket for cleaning rusted parts.  I dipped some sheet metal pieces and pulled them out of the acid and dunked them into a bucket of hot water and baking soda to see what would happen.  The parts bucket started boiling furiously and calmed down after a few seconds then I washed the metal with hot dawn soap and water scrubbing them thoroughly.

I forgot about a rusty pair of pliers in the acid and weeks later it was gone, completely dissolved!  Muriatic acid is dirty hydrochloric acid and costs the same.

I set them on a shelf to dry and forgot about it. A coupe of days later I remembered about them and pulled them off the shelf expecting to see a rusty mess.  To my surprise they we're grey steel with no rust and it's been very humid here.  It seems that the conversion created a passivation that protected the metal. I'm going to try mixing automotive silver base coat paint in with the baking soda to see if a nice finish can be imparted into the metal unless someone has another suggestion.

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