Author Topic: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe  (Read 342 times)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« on: September 09, 2017, 03:11:45 PM »
Beginning to make some progress on the unibody so I will begin there. I have many, many pictures I have taken along the way to this point so things may not entirely be in order.

PLEASE, I welcome your critique' and please offer ideas to open discussions so I can do things right the first time or over if need-be prior to assembly.
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2017, 03:20:35 PM »
Pictures
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2017, 09:26:48 AM »
Need some suggestions on the Spectrum Sludge I just put on this morning. On the areas that I am touching up over the original sound deadener, it looks to be much more like what I saw originally on that area. Other areas, where the product is much thicker, the peaks on it are in my opinion too high.

Question. While the product is still somewhat solvent, are there any suggestions that I should follow to help level things off to appear more like original?

( a couple of sideways pictures are attached, rotate them 90 degrees right)
« Last Edit: September 26, 2017, 09:39:26 AM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2017, 10:21:54 PM »
Need some suggestions on the Spectrum Sludge I just put on this morning. On the areas that I am touching up over the original sound deadener, it looks to be much more like what I saw originally on that area. Other areas, where the product is much thicker, the peaks on it are in my opinion too high.

Question. While the product is still somewhat solvent, are there any suggestions that I should follow to help level things off to appear more like original?

( a couple of sideways pictures are attached, rotate them 90 degrees right)

Something I haven't tried but wanted to on my next inner quarter panel in trunk area that might work here

Might find a small diameter and shorter roller that you wet in the solution and move over the surface if possible. The peak should be much shorter and just run it lightly over the earlier applied product so that you don't disturb or push it to an area you don't want it.

Just a thought

I think that some of the surfaces you have coated in the front wheel well (firewall section) might have been part of the sound deadener application rather than the seam sealing process but in the final look and product it should not make a difference on a NJ or San Jose since they both get black in that area
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2017, 10:51:36 PM »
The product was pretty much dry by 6 when I got home so I finger pressed some of the spiked peaks down a little. Was thinking of re-coating it in the morning.
My terminology was off about the use of Sound Deadener earlier. I was having trouble in the seam sealer part of this mess. All-in-all, it doesn't look too bad but I was hoping it would better resemble the original. I figured this area as a somewhat "hidden" one so a good place to practice ;)

I might try that small roller idea...I have a wallpaper seam roller.

Though the actual Sound Deadener is supposed to be applied much later, weather and heated conditions in my garage suggest this week is a good time to get some of this done a little out of order. I figured touching up later over the items that are missing (e.g. steering box bolts etc.) Then eventually, I was going to spray undercoating over the sound deadener, this after I shoot the whole engine bay semi-gloss paint, figuring the undercoating would finish it over nicely.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?
« Last Edit: September 26, 2017, 10:58:26 PM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2017, 01:22:29 AM »
Though the actual Sound Deadener is supposed to be applied much later, weather and heated conditions in my garage suggest this week is a good time to get some of this done a little out of order. I figured touching up later over the items that are missing (e.g. steering box bolts etc.) Then eventually, I was going to spray undercoating over the sound deadener, this after I shoot the whole engine bay semi-gloss paint, figuring the undercoating would finish it over nicely.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Sound deadener was applied (67 San Jose) at at least two points.

First before paint in the trunk, interior and rear wheel wells

Second when the car was pretty much completely assembled (fenders, front panels, parts, suspension.... installed) minus wheel and tires it appears, to the front wheel wells

Spray on seam sealer and brushed on was prior to exterior paint and engine comparment black

Of you apply the sound deadener before installing the fenders and everything else there are a couple of things you'll need to address

1- the spray passing through all the open holes and gaps into the air raining down on the exterior of the car and into the engine compartment.

2- You will not get the sound deadener to the splash shield to fender meeting edges as originally done.

3- You will have dozens of screws, electrical straps, bolts, rubber plugs, wire looms and other items that may chip off the sound deadener when installed and then will need to be each coated if within (the complete surface of the inner panels were not coated with the product originally) sprau pattern of the sound deadener. Most of the time it appears there are four to 6 passes in each front wheel well normally

4- Also the sound deadener (like the rear wheel well) was applied from below the car, worker standing in the pit shooting upward and outward. This might be difficult to do, replicate original and (as mentioned before if spraying) will rain down on other things around the shop

Just some thoughts and concerns I've seen on when others have tried similar applications. Sometimes it's just easier and quicker to reproduce the factory methods rather than do things multiple times  ;)

Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2017, 01:26:41 AM by J_Speegle »
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2017, 05:50:04 AM »
At this stage of my project, I have the underbody painted and most of the body work done on the unibody, ready for final primer and block sanding prior to paint. (Read as all metal & body work of the unibody is finished and rough sanded/shaped, course-grit long-board block sanding is completed. Time for my grey high-build primer followed by finer grit block sanding steps.)

Weather for the next few weeks will be unseasonably mild with several days with highs over 60 degrees but lows overnight in the high 40's/low 50's anticipated. This forces work time into the weekends for me. However, this last week or so, I've been very fortunate to have good conditions with lows of mid 60's, this has allowed me opportunities in the weekday mornings to do things NOW that I otherwise will not or would not be able to easily do except weekend since temps normally drop sharply over night. (procedures that require temps to be over 60. Most times, the weather in September/October has temps these times of the days in high 40's. This opotunity of overnights above 60 ends today. I do not have a regulated heat source in garage except wood-burner that takes hours to get warmed up).

I say this to explain why I wish to get some of this done out of order a bit. I know it will require a bit of re-work.

Sound deadener was applied (67 San Jose) at at least two points.
First before paint in the trunk, interior and rear wheel wells
CHECK ~ My original is still in place at both of these locations. Touch-Up is required and will do this morning.

Second when the car was pretty much completely assembled (fenders, front panels, parts, suspension.... installed) minus wheel and tires it appears, to the front wheel wells

Spray on seam sealer and brushed on was prior to exterior paint and engine comparment black

This statement confuses me, that is the "PRIOR to exterior paint and engine compartment paint", (which is the stage I am at at this point. Except my doors and trunk lid are NOT on yet) combined with the added text you wrote in: "...(fenders, front panels, parts, suspension.... installed) minus wheel and tires it appears, to the front wheel wells ..." Seems out of place or pertains ONLY to the front sound deadener/sealer at the apron seams to the frame rails. There is NO SIGN of sound deadener on the fenders or splash shields on this example.

This leads me to ask: Isn't the spray on seam sealer at the door pillars typically UNDER the body color? I did double-check my example. When I scrape the old spray on sealer off at the hinge pillar this morning, it goes to bare metal under the sealer, no sign of body color on the underside of the scrapings.

1- the spray passing through all the open holes and gaps into the air raining down on the exterior of the car and into the engine compartment.

2- You will not get the sound deadener to the splash shield to fender meeting edges as originally done.

3- You will have dozens of screws, electrical straps, bolts, rubber plugs, wire looms and other items that may chip off the sound deadener when installed and then will need to be each coated if within (the complete surface of the inner panels were not coated with the product originally) sprau pattern of the sound deadener. Most of the time it appears there are four to 6 passes in each front wheel well normally

4- Also the sound deadener (like the rear wheel well) was applied from below the car, worker standing in the pit shooting upward and outward. This might be difficult to do, replicate original and (as mentioned before if spraying) will rain down on other things around the shop

Just some thoughts and concerns I've seen on when others have tried similar applications. Sometimes it's just easier and quicker to reproduce the factory methods rather than do things multiple times  ;)

Hope this helps.

Thank you for the insight.
As noted in red, I have recorded what I have found on my example with photographs and have only found one, perhaps two passes of the sound deadener on the inner aprons at the seam to the front frame rails. Not much blown onto the under sides of the front aprons and no signs of it under the fenders themselves or the bolt -in splash shields (but some found UNDER the attaching points of the vertical mounting location of the splash shields, though it was mashed-down looking). It also is loaded fairly heavy coat as much as an inch thick in the pockets of the frame rails UNDER the upper control arms.

If you are able, could you possibly provide images of what you "NORMALLY" see on other examples built around this time period at SJ?...then perhaps I could easier compare to what I have found, see if we are talking about the same areas of understanding. (also, I could upload images if you like)

Otherwise, I acknowledge your notes & suggestions without questions, thank you ;)
« Last Edit: September 27, 2017, 08:43:28 AM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline nham3407

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2017, 11:06:54 AM »
Richard looks like a very nice car and my compliments on the work you have completed thus far.  I need to keep an eye out for your updates and make some notes. I will head down this past at some point with my 67 GT.
67 GT S-Code, San Jose, 06/67
72 Mach 1, Dearborn, 01/72
68 Merc. Cyclone, Lorain, 06/68

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2017, 03:43:12 PM »
RH quarter sound deadener
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2017, 03:51:28 PM »
LH quarter sound deadener with picture of wallpaper seam roller
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2017, 04:06:47 PM »
Looks like you might have extended it rearward more than originally done with the wand  and of course will need a top coat of spray to feather the edges but I can see some spray pattern edges (not sure if they were intentional )  to the over all pattern as you can see in your original example.  The spray at the edges should be limited to just a few inches. Too much and it starts looking like  a Dearborn application  ;)

At the wheel houses the gun was held so close most of the time you don't get the spatter and spread of the wand where it in visible - unlike the quarter panel application/surface edge. I often will finish those edges with a brush to assure I have the steep edges in some places and the flowed on look of the factory product in those areas


Looks like you have enough pictures of what was originally found to use as a guide or I would offer you others. Making headway
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2017, 06:00:53 AM »
Looks like you might have extended it rearward more than originally done with the wand...

I assume you are referring to the left side quarter sound deadener...Correct. I cheated a little there ;) The corner of the quarter panel where it meets up to the rear valance was crunched in a little before I bought the car and then the area just ahead of the rear quarter extension was crunched a little when an ex-wife backed into a huge Cadillac. (No, this is NOT why she is now an "EX-wife"  ;D )

The extended reach of the deadener was intentional, perhaps taking the easy way out from needing to do more body work on the inside of the quarter panel. (That and knowing the trunk filler will cover this ;) ) so yes, I cheated :) and I do not regret it.
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: 11/2/66 Built San Jose A-code GTA Coupe
« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2017, 09:22:03 AM »
Something interesting I noticed while doing some of the seam sealing and sound deadener... at where the front apron attaches to the frame rail, there appears to be a double-bead of sealant about a half of an inch apart. Looking at my photographs of "before scraping", and as you can see, even in the pictures provided of "after scraping" the loose sealant away, there does not seem to be any of the same kind of bead on the rear aprons, that is behind the shock towers..
Pictures of just before applying new sealant/deadener and pictures of where I am at this morning. In one image, you see I am adding in one row of the double-row bead...Wish I had picked up on this before beginning but I will use some Spectrum Sludge over the top again. I used a black seam-sealant from a caulking gun to reproduce the bead. The 2nd row looked a bit better...practice helps make a better job.

NOTE: You can see some of the semi-gloss black engine bay paint was under the original sound deadener (as has been described earlier in this thread and in multiple other threads). There are always going to be "better ways" to do things like this. We learn as we go and if all else fails...wipe the slate clean and do it again...right?
« Last Edit: September 29, 2017, 09:37:54 AM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Well Optioned
2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments