Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Body, Paint & Sealers

Aerosol cans

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MustangAndFairlane1867:
I'm curious what forum members think about using Aerosol cans (aka, rattle cans) for touching up the semi-gloss/satin black paint in their engine compartments.  My engine is out of the car right now and it's a good chance for me to do a little sanding and some touch-up work, especially around the master cylinder where brake fluid apparently made its presence known to the paint and sheet metal around it over the years.  Is there, for example, an Eastwood product that works good and is close to the factory non-glossy black paint?  Or maybe Krylon or something similar?  Thanks, Ron

jwc66k:
With as many variations seen, almost any semi-gloss black rattle can would work (Krylon - Home Depot). I've found Eastwood paint to be too glossy. What ever you use, keep some for touch up. Brackets for the most part were dipped and would be a glossier black but still semi-gloss. You want some variation in the sheen. The "big time" guys buy bulk because they are "big time". I have to watch my budget.
Jim

rrenz:
I try use Rust Oleum semi gloss black on just about everything that needs semi gloss. I want to drive it and enjoy it so Its easy to stay consistent and won't cost a arm and a leg when touch ups are needed versus a catalyzed product. If you want a little higher quality paint you could try SEM products which have a nice finish as well however rust oleum is pretty readily available. Im a professional painter and don't have a issue with rattle cans. Its all in your prep really. almost all of my engine compartment was rattle cans except parts of the engine. Just be careful with fluid leaks. especially brake fluid will act like a stripper on a enamel paint

lancelot66:
I've done the same thing and for exactly the same reasoning. We want to get it out in nicer weather and enjoy it. NW weather is inconsistent and can be unkind sometimes, so the BoeShield gets a good workout too on Phosphate & Oil pieces each year.

J_Speegle:
Since all your blacks should not (if we;re duplicating the original look) all have the same look or finish, if your going with rattle cans you will want to have a group of acceptable products in your arsenal

Take a panel of some kind (I typically use a gang plate used for framing with out the teeth just thew holes) and spray bands of each product in bands about 1-2" wide the length of the plate. Remember to label which product with number (since providers can change or up date products) on the face or back side.

You can also use this to compare these finishes with original ones when your dissembling and record them if you choose.  Know Charles did the same years ago (test panel for comparison)  I also did the same with about 10 different engine blues that is around here somewhere


An additional step that seems to change the glossiness of the products and helps provide a nicer IMHO finish in many cases is baking the part as they sometimes did. Seems to make the finish last longer since it has no catalyze in the product.  But this will require some testing to see what rattle can paint will take the heat and which ones can not.

Haven't done this for years but recall it was something like 250 degrees for 5-8 minutes - approx. Of course the thickness of the metal part guided towards how long it baked

For specifics I've never found a Eastwood product where I liked their blacks. But I've not tried using rattle cans for engine compartments nor large area for over a decade. When I did it had too much brown in the final look for me.

Another "trick" is to carefully heat the cans before their use to help the flow better and some products have better flowing nozzles while others will plug quickly so make sure the can gets well shook before use ;)

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