Recent Posts

1

Drivetrain / Re: Autolite 4300 Carburetor C9ZF-F

« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 12:18:56 PM »

I am looking for a restored Autolite 4300 carburetor, C9ZF-F, for a 1969 Mustang 390 Mach 1 with an automatic transmission.  Given the fact these aren't as popular as the Holley counterparts, does anyone have a recommendation on the best place to find one?  Most of the vendors I see selling restored carburetors only seem to carry the Holley.  Thank you in advance for your assistance.

Of course you can wait around and hope a restored one shows up. Since that carb is not in high demand most that restore and sell will not put the time and money into it to sit on a shelf. Your best chance is to find one used and have it restored. best of luck on your search.

2

1970 Mustang / Re: Convertible top boot

« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 12:13:07 PM »

Not to hijack this thread but as I understand the black bootbag material is the same as the black vinyl roof material.  I have a 1 inch square hole in my vinyl roof that I was going to try to repair with some material and glue.  Do you have a bit of material I could get from you? Don't need much. Thank you.

Given that you show your car in driven concours don't waste your time as the repair will most likely be noticeable IMO.

3

Drivetrain / Autolite 4300 Carburetor C9ZF-F

« Last post by QKSLVER on Today at 10:03:12 AM »

I am looking for a restored Autolite 4300 carburetor, C9ZF-F, for a 1969 Mustang 390 Mach 1 with an automatic transmission.  Given the fact these aren't as popular as the Holley counterparts, does anyone have a recommendation on the best place to find one?  Most of the vendors I see selling restored carburetors only seem to carry the Holley.  Thank you in advance for your assistance.

4

1970 Mustang / Re: Convertible top boot

« Last post by born2race59 on Today at 09:09:32 AM »

Thank you, I need to find a boot first.  Also needing a correct well liner. D.N.O does not make them anymore.

5

1970 Mustang / Re: Convertible top boot

« Last post by dkknab on Today at 09:07:37 AM »

i made the correct boot bag if u need one

Not to hijack this thread but as I understand the black bootbag material is the same as the black vinyl roof material.  I have a 1 inch square hole in my vinyl roof that I was going to try to repair with some material and glue.  Do you have a bit of material I could get from you? Don't need much. Thank you.

6

Wanted Ads / Looking for 69 steering column bolt sleeves

« Last post by Aussiemach on Today at 08:05:41 AM »

I?m looking for 2 steering column bolt sleeves as in photo for a 69 Mach1. Anyone have a couple spares I can purchase and prepared to send to Australia? I?ll pay shipping as well naturally, mine were lost 😞

7

1970 Mustang / Re: Convertible top boot

« Last post by specialed on April 23, 2024, 11:13:43 PM »

i made the correct boot bag if u need one

8

Wanted Ads / wanted: 2006 Mustang seat cover

« Last post by carlite65 on April 23, 2024, 10:04:48 PM »

looking for 2006 mustang cloth seat cover. dark charcoal. driver side back. must be actual ford product. must have seat belt retainer strap with magnet not snap. code PW.

9

General Discussion / Re: Rant on old Concours Wiring Restorations

« Last post by JohnSlack on April 23, 2024, 08:50:08 PM »

Earlier this week, I received a beautifully looking 1968 tach underdash harness to go through as a double-check, since it was refurbished by Pat White at least 20 years ago and never installed.  Great, I thought...should be a piece of cake for me!  This harness looked at first glance to be pristine and well done.  I start checking it out, and noticed that one of the dash cluster connectors (should be an 8 pin female and a 6 pin male) were both 8 pins.  Huh?  I contacted the owner to verify that his dash cluster connector was a 6 pin female, and it was.  That was when he told me the story of the harness.  I replaced the connector, and continued on with my checking.  What's this?  The two wires for the brake switch were swapped...no biggie electrically, but for being concours correct?  No way!  Then I found molex pins with soldered joints rather than crimped.  I also had to replace an OEM splice for the resistor wire going to the rear defogger. 
I guess 25+ years ago when there were no reproductions, one had to use one of the few concours-level restorers.  Having now examined both a Pat White and Bill Healy examples, I am somewhat disappointed in the quality of the electrical work.  The aesthetic appearance of each were outstanding, but still...
I still have yet to find out what it cost folks back in the day to refurbish to concours level wiring...just curious.  For me, the electrical performance of the work should match or exceed the appearance, regardless of concours quality or not.  I cannot afford the time/effort to refurbish wiring to concours-level standards and keep my price points and sanity.
Rant over.

Randy,

I get it, I was just asked to "fix" a car that had just been finished by a high end restoration shop. The car is beautiful, however it doesn't run, in addition the wiring is not that great, he was able to pay a zillion dollars and come up with NOS. The restoration shop just responded with, oh, most people don't drive these cars anymore and as long as they are pretty....we are good.


John

10

1966 Mustang / Re: When was change L8 C5OE cast iron water pump phased out to the C6OE version?

« Last post by jwc66k on April 23, 2024, 04:13:15 PM »

Jim, thanks for the quick response.

You're welcome.

I have analysed the cast number when I first got hold of Muscadelle, and could conclude the cast date of the engine block to be 22 sept '65.
The actual production date of the car would be 07 okt '65.

The engine casting date is located on the lower right hand side behind the starter. Your should see this Ford part number "C5AE-6015-E" in raised letters along with the casting date. The actual engine assemble date is actually in two places, on the mounting surface for the oil pan and not visible unless the oil pan is removed, and as I described above, by the distributor.
Engine blocks were cast, then allowed to cool outdoors for a couple of days (occasionally a month or two) before machining and assembly.
Jim