ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Parts => Topic started by: Ralf on March 27, 2017, 04:45:30 PM
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Hi,
have an Autolite Battery (seems repro) which I have some trouble with. Problems with starting the car. Seems battery has not enough power anymore.
Charged, has 13,3 V than....drops to 12,5 V in 2 days (battery outside the car).
Always thought the batterie is service free and none of the caps can be opened.
Today I figured out that one cap can be opened......don't know if other caps can be opened as well....by hand no way....to strong.
See pics.
Block shows no liquid inside.....acid/water....
Anything I can do here to recover battery? Not really familiar with batteries.
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You NOW have what is known in the Mustang world as a Mazda Miata battery case. You should be able to find a thread (at this site) on how to gut the case and install the Miata battery inside...or buy another repro and hope for the best ;)
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Hi,
have an Autolite Battery (seems repro) which I have some trouble with. Problems with starting the car. Seems battery has not enough power anymore.
Charged, has 13,3 V than....drops to 12,5 V in 2 days (battery outside the car).
Always thought the batterie is service free and none of the caps can be opened.
Today I figured out that one cap can be opened......don't know if other caps can be opened as well....by hand no way....to strong.
See pics.
Block shows no liquid inside.....acid/water....
Anything I can do here to recover battery? Not really familiar with batteries.
the repro batteries are of the maintenance free variety that are sealed up inside a period looking Autolite case. The caps are typically glue on so you can't remove them . You can't top off this type of battery with water or acid like you could the old style batteries.
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How old is your battery?
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How old is your battery?
Unable to answer, bought the car in 2014, battery was already in there...guess 5 years. Hm, how I could open one cap...?
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You NOW have what is known in the Mustang world as a Mazda Miata battery case. You should be able to find a thread (at this site) on how to gut the case and install the Miata battery inside...or buy another repro and hope for the best ;)
Agreed. Here's a nice writeup by Jim Woods
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5719.0
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Agreed. Here's a nice writeup by Jim Woods
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5719.0
Thx for the link.
Attached another 2 pictures. I can not see that there is anything broken off.
The cap itself as well as the lid has a thread.....
Still wondering.
Btw. didn't charge the battery for a week, still on 12.5V
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I got tired of the $300 Mazda Miata Batteries, I bought an EXCIDE battery at HOME DEPOT (Group 24F) (THESE batteries have the gusset for using the factory '65 hold down.
I then bought a GREAT, very authentic TOPPER and am very satisfied with it and don't show my car anymore in MCA Concours.
The EXCIDE Group24F is right around $100 at HD.
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I got tired of the $300 Mazda Miata Batteries, I bought an EXCIDE battery at HOME DEPOT (Group 24F) (THESE batteries have the gusset for using the factory '65 hold down.
I then bought a GREAT, very authentic TOPPER and am very satisfied with it and don't show my car anymore in MCA Concours.
The EXCIDE Group24F is right around $100 at HD.
Did almost the same, bought a battery where the repop Autolite Staful lid was fitting precisely. Great working battery and from a visual point of view good enough for me.
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This is a repro, I have the exact same one that actually is supposed to be a direct copy of the originals that you fill with acid, I still have mine in the box and never activated it... I got this back in the late 90's. They came out a couple years later with what everyone else is talking about above which replaced these as a more current and better choice for a repro battery (maintenance free). This one you have didn't do so well in the market and I believe they aren't even made anymore for this exact reason, they don't last and are weak to begin with...
If you want this exact replacement, you can buy my brand new one that's never been activated, haha...
Hope this helps...
Jason
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This is a repro, I have the exact same one that actually is supposed to be a direct copy of the originals that you fill with acid, I still have mine in the box and never activated it... I got this back in the late 90's. They came out a couple years later with what everyone else is talking about above which replaced these as a more current and better choice for a repro battery (maintenance free). This one you have didn't do so well in the market and I believe they aren't even made anymore for this exact reason, they don't last and are weak to begin with...
If you want this exact replacement, you can buy my brand new one that's never been activated, haha...
Hope this helps...
Jason
The old repro batteries as well as current ones are only exact replacement for 68,69,and 70. The old replacement had a error in the printing on the label. The newer version had the error corrected .
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I got tired of the $300 Mazda Miata Batteries, I bought an EXCIDE battery at HOME DEPOT (Group 24F) (THESE batteries have the gusset for using the factory '65 hold down.
I then bought a GREAT, very authentic TOPPER and am very satisfied with it and don't show my car anymore in MCA Concours.
The EXCIDE Group24F is right around $100 at HD.
I looked at these batteries and the positive and negative posts were on the wrong side. Did they recently change? I had to go to Pep Boys and get a Bosch battery which has the posts on the right side and has the lip for the hold down.
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Have an Exide Group 24 batter I bought at Menards. The posts are on the correct side.
John
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While wandering around Wal-Mart on Monday, a battery display caught my eye. A 24F battery (a Wal-Mart brand maybe) for $49.95. I didn't do a close-up inspection, like terminal location, or the hold down lips at the ends, or other specifications, but at that price, it may warrant a second look.
Jim
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While wandering around Wal-Mart on Monday, a battery display caught my eye. A 24F battery (a Wal-Mart brand maybe) for $49.95. I didn't do a close-up inspection, like terminal location, or the hold down lips at the ends, or other specifications, but at that price, it may warrant a second look.
Jim
Thats a battery that you'll be lucky to get a year out of.....
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Have an Exide Group 24 batter I bought at Menards. The posts are on the correct side.
John
+1 24F battery.
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I looked at these batteries and the positive and negative posts were on the wrong side. Did they recently change? I had to go to Pep Boys and get a Bosch battery which has the posts on the right side and has the lip for the hold down.
There is a Group 24 and a 24F, which I always assumed was for FORD....
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Mine:
Exide Premium Superior Power EA754 with repro lid, since my aftermarket has gone (RIP).
I don't think it would make sense to buy a new repro (independend the high involved cost shipping to GER.)
https://picload.org/view/drrdlwww/img_20171029_144541.jpg.html
(http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171029/temp/fka4dfq7.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4890/fka4dfq7_jpg.htm)
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Mine:
Exide Premium Superior Power EA754 with repro lid, since my aftermarket has gone (RIP).
I don't think it would make sense to buy a new repro (independend the high involved cost shipping to GER.)
https://picload.org/view/drrdlwww/img_20171029_144541.jpg.html
(http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171029/temp/fka4dfq7.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4890/fka4dfq7_jpg.htm)
I think there is a common misconception that the white with red letter tag that is on the terminal is somehow assemblyline correct. It is not a 60 era factory tag.I used to not deduct for it in concours but tried to educate. It's use has gotten worse not better. Now I make a deduction for it. The joke is that it was a tag the repro battery companies had to put on batteries for liability or regulatory reasons. The buying enthusiasts have accepted that tag now after all these years as authentic to a 60's era battery. It is even included in many tag and sticker kits I understand.To me with it incorrectly displayed ,it tells all the world that the owner is misinformed on various levels. It also perpetuates the misconception to others. Pass on the information to help stop this.
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well said bob..............more education is in order.
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I think there is a common misconception that the white with red letter tag that is on the terminal is somehow assemblyline correct. It is not a 60 era factory tag.I used to not deduct for it in concours but tried to educate. It's use has gotten worse not better. Now I make a deduction for it. The joke is that it was a tag the repro battery companies had to put on batteries for liability or regulatory reasons. The buying enthusiasts have accepted that tag now after all these years as authentic to a 60's era battery. It is even included in many tag and sticker kits I understand.To me with it incorrectly displayed ,it tells all the world that the owner is misinformed on various levels. It also perpetuates the misconception to others. Pass on the information to help stop this.
Nice to know.
Tons of such decals around the globe.....
https://www.google.de/search?q=autolite+battery&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjL04fbn5bXAhWCB5oKHeThBtEQsAQINg (https://www.google.de/search?q=autolite+battery&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjL04fbn5bXAhWCB5oKHeThBtEQsAQINg)
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I think there is a common misconception that the white with red letter tag that is on the terminal is somehow assemblyline correct. It is not a 60 era factory tag.I used to not deduct for it in concours but tried to educate. It's use has gotten worse not better. Now I make a deduction for it. The joke is that it was a tag the repro battery companies had to put on batteries for liability or regulatory reasons. The buying enthusiasts have accepted that tag now after all these years as authentic to a 60's era battery. It is even included in many tag and sticker kits I understand.To me with it incorrectly displayed ,it tells all the world that the owner is misinformed on various levels. It also perpetuates the misconception to others. Pass on the information to help stop this.
The power of suggestion. The tag shows up everywhere. Last year I bought a battery topper for my driver and unconsciously included the tag when installing the topper and detailing the battery. Later I looked under the hood and couldn't believe it was there.
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Definitive enough for me...color mine "gone" as well. Thanks guys! Can vouch for the Exide 24F battery though. Hoping they keep making them. It's been the only one I've found locally with the lower ledge for the clamp. The little vertical tab in the clamp even fits as it should.
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Calling me crazy.
Does anyone know the best source (+ price) to buy an Autolite 24F?
Great thanks.
Ralf
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Does anyone know the best source (+ price) to buy an Autolite 24F?
Get into a dialog with Brant at Virginia Classic Mustang. Be advised that a "sender" needs special certification to send a battery to a country outside the USA. VCM has that certification.
Jim
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Thx,
Wrote an e-mail.
However, backlog.
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Have seen them advertised on ebay, not sure if they ship overseas.
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I just finished up a little project for my 66. Couldn’t sell myself on a repro battery that didn’t look correct anyways. I took an old topper and shaved down the raised portion then made a few decals with the wife’s vinyl printer. Brand new exide under all that. Couldn’t be happier to have reliability and a reasonable factory appearance.
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I just finished up a little project for my 66. Couldn’t sell myself on a repro battery that didn’t look correct anyways. I took an old topper and shaved down the raised portion then made a few decals with the wife’s vinyl printer. Brand new exide under all that. Couldn’t be happier to have reliability and a reasonable factory appearance.
Sure that will get a few double looks. Glad your happy with the results of your labor.
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I just finished up a little project for my 66. Couldn’t sell myself on a repro battery that didn’t look correct anyways. I took an old topper and shaved down the raised portion then made a few decals with the wife’s vinyl printer. Brand new exide under all that. Couldn’t be happier to have reliability and a reasonable factory appearance.
The originals assemblyline batteries from that time did not typically have the Autolite Staful in red. It was typically black . Thought I would mention it since you went to all the trouble of making up a better looking topper.
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I have seen those as well. I used a photo of an original from one of Bob Perkins 66 cars to recreate this topper. Since its not really "correct" I went for more of a personal taste and kept the red.
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The originals assemblyline batteries from that time did not typically have the Autolite Staful in red. It was typically black . Thought I would mention it since you went to all the trouble of making up a better looking topper.
It’s unfortunate the manufacturers don’t care about the details. Bob, do you happen to have a close up picture of 67 version? I am curious as to the raised yellow lettering and what it really looked like.
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It’s unfortunate the manufacturers don’t care about the details. Bob, do you happen to have a close up picture of 67 version? I am curious as to the raised yellow lettering and what it really looked like.
Some posted in the following threads
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11756.60 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11756.60)
[url]http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=3638.msg20058#msg20058[/url
Close ups
Take notice of the two different styles of negative posts in the first two
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-180219231530.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-180219231555.jpeg)
And one from a period magazine. One or two more with what appear to be different colored caps but that's not the focus right now.
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-180219231713.jpeg)
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Thanks, Jeff!
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Is there any decoding info on those terminal stamps ?
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Believe at least one of those above with red on the Autolite was a service replacement.
Using search, there is another topic with more pictures of original batteries.
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Is there any decoding info on those terminal stamps ?
If you compare information on the base of the terminal and apply the typical letter and number decoding pattern seen on other Ford parts it would appear to be fairly straight forward and suggest that the top example was produced in 1967 while the middle one in 1966. In the case of the middle one that would match the 1966 date code on the base part of the case
The stamping on the top one on the post might be for warranty identification like we sometimes see on later versions put into the top of the case or cover
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If you compare information on the base of the terminal and apply the typical letter and number decoding pattern seen on other Ford parts it would appear to be fairly straight forward and suggest that the top example was produced in 1967 while the middle one in 1966. In the case of the middle one that would match the 1966 date code on the base part of the case
The stamping on the top one on the post might be for warranty identification like we sometimes see on later versions put into the top of the case or cover
The 7FB code makes sense in the case of the top photo. So we can assume November 5 on the 66 with warranty info on the post? Just trying to clear it up if you could elaborate a little. Those codes on the middle one don’t seem to relate to the typical month shift year patterns.
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So we can assume November 5 on the 66 with warranty info on the post? Just trying to clear it up if you could elaborate a little. Those codes on the middle one don't seem to relate to the typical month shift year patterns.
I'm seeing 6KC (Oct 1966 third shift) on the center pictures negative post. Not sure of the purpose of the individual/remote "72" and the "S" but those are the same style and size as the one that may be the date so I would think those were applied at the battery plant and not related to a later warranty/ID stamping
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ok. thanks for clarifying ;)
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Would the 1967 24F have the Autolite stamped on the side? I know both of my cars would have had a heat shield and no one would ever see it, but it would be nice to know in case I ever run across one😊.
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Would the 1967 24F have the Autolite stamped on the side? I know both of my cars would have had a heat shield and no one would ever see it, but it would be nice to know in case I ever run across one😊.
Believe that the base has the AUTOLITE cast into the long sides but don't have a picture of a 67 version of the 24 from the side or one setting on the shelf ::)
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I just finished up a little project for my 66. Couldn’t sell myself on a repro battery that didn’t look correct anyways. I took an old topper and shaved down the raised portion then made a few decals with the wife’s vinyl printer. Brand new exide under all that. Couldn’t be happier to have reliability and a reasonable factory appearance.
How did you shave of the raised part? I'am also interested in buying a topper or just a sticker from you. Greetings Andre Romein