ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: FD234 on January 14, 2018, 07:06:24 PM
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Feb 67 Dearborn gta 390. I need some help with rebuilding my brake proportion valve. As of yet I have not been able to remove the valve from the proportion valve block .Any tips would be appreciated I did watch the video posted by west coast classic cougar and successfully rebuilt the proportion valve located by the rear axle.
Thanks fd234
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That is not a proportioning valve, it's a distribution block with a brake fluid warning light switch, and that bit of info does not help you get it apart. From what I remember, the switch has to come off and the actuating pin removed so the piston can be slid out.
Jim
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Search for other posts. I struggled and attempted a few things, then Marty recommended that I heat it, then whack it good on a block of wood with the insert down. It popped right out. Not too much heat, I only used propane.
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I have the switch removed and I have tried heating it. No luck
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Whack it. Seriously.
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Will do
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Some times there is just nothing like a good whack! ;)
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It is best of course to try and knock it loose as previously described . Worst case scenario you can drill a small hole on the back side of the distribution block so as to insert a rod,nail etc. to force the piston forward and out . You finish up by threading the hole for a small Allen set screw. Once installed it will be virtually impossible to detect. FYI I have also bought a new repro of the 67 style from NPD before.
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Search "Brake pressure warning light" to see my posts on this exact process.. It even includes pictures. 8)
""Thanks for all the advice guys. I took a 5/16 inverted flare plug, drilled it with a 15/64 bit, then used a 1/4 x 28 tap and placed a zerk fitting in it. I capped off all ports except the exit port where the pin would exit . Then after slowly applying grease gun pressure, I felt a "give"and the pin popped towards the exit hole. I then took some needle nose pliers and pulled the pin out the rest the way. Hopefully this info can help the next person.
My pin didn't look as bad and corroded as others I've seen so I would suspect that bleeding the brakes could have shifted my pin back to position without removing it from the distribution block or taking a block off the car. Either way this was a guaranteed fix, to remove it and be able to put new seals on it. Next I'll reassemble, use the positioning tool to keep the pin centered, get it back on the car, bleed the brakes, and hopefully the brake warning light won't be staying on!!
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Update I got the valve out today. I used my grease gun, two pumps and it popped right out . Thanks for the help.
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Maybe this will help.
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-wagner
Danny
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If you choose to buy a new 67 distribution valve from NPD be careful to inspect that the piston is centered before installing. The piston moves very freely on these new ones. They are easily knocked off center during shipping or even handling in your shop. I visually make sure that it is centered and then put the metal stop pin centering tool to keep things in place until you bleed the brakes . NPD sells the stop pin centering tool also. This is best regardless of if a new valve or rebuilt used one. When you put the the plastic switch in at the last it should thread in very easily with no resistance. If it is a little tight it may because the piston has moved and you are feeling the switch pin being moved one way or the other on the bottom side as it is threaded in . When the switch moves it causes the brake light to turn on. That is not something you want to happen at this stage. ;)
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This is a video from West Coast Cougar on rebuilding the distribution block and the pressure valve for cars with disc brakes. This should be very helpful in your quest.
-Keith
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kOCpaFGWGw
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+1 on fittings/adapters to use a grease gun to push it out. I have 2 trays of various fittings I use in situations like this.
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+1 on fittings/adapters to use a grease gun to push it out. I have 2 trays of various fittings I use in situations like this.
I have some specific fittings and adapters identified here: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/grease-gun-pressure
Don't forget that you can drill through plugs, tap them, and install a zerk fitting to make whatever custom fittings you need. Your local NAPA stored is a good source of inverted flare plugs.
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Thanks