ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: poboy427 on September 15, 2014, 11:09:31 PM
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I looked at length for a suitable color match for the top of my coil. I found and bought a great match today at Menards. Rust-oleum Satin Amber 250896.
Three light coats with 10 min between and it looks perfect. If any of you have those repo coils that came out with a more brown top, this would be a great fix there too.
Ray
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Would be great to see a pic, thanks for sharing.
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Here is a pic of the coil. Not sure true colors are reflected in the pic though. Of course the lighting is poor. I enclosed a small DeWalt right angle tool for color comparison.
(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac45/poboy427/Shelby%20research%20reference%20pics/yellowtoprestoration2.jpg)
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Definitely not as orange as it appears. In reality I would call this color dead nuts on. The satin aspect of the color is perfect.
Ray
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Wow, it looks good in the picture . I am going to get some and try it myself.
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That does look really good! I'm surprised to see such a close match out of a spray can. Sometimes you just get lucky! :)
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Did you move or delete the pic? I don't see it.
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Not sure where the pic went. I did change my photobucket privacy settings and maybe that did it. I will see if I can get it back up.
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(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac45/poboy427/Shelby%20research%20reference%20pics/coilpaint2_zpsdf0ea0ba.jpg)
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perfect I was just thinking about painting mine....
Did you have to do any prep? Sanding etc?
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I just wiped mine down with wax and grease remover so it would not fisheye and hit it with some 000 steel wool. Thin coats and you will get a nice satin finish and it will cover the fine cracks that some coils have. As always it is best to start with the nicest coil you can find before refurbishing and correct stamping is also avail out there if you want to go that far.
Ray
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I just wiped mine down with wax and grease remover so it would not fisheye and hit it with some 000 steel wool. Thin coats and you will get a nice satin finish and it will cover the fine cracks that some coils have. As always it is best to start with the nicest coil you can find before refurbishing and correct stamping is also avail out there if you want to go that far.
Ray
Or in my case hiding an aftermarket non OEM coil...
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Or in my case hiding an aftermarket non OEM coil...
Same here. I plan on going this route until someone makes a halfway reliable repro yellow-top. I've heard horror stories about the reliability of yellow top reproductions. And if my experience with the reproduction Autolite voltage regulators and solenoids is any example, it'll be a LONG wait... :-\
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EXCELLENT!! Thanks for sharing!
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Interesting post. I had not thought to restore any of the coils I have sitting around here but with all this info why not. I have three coils all with the date code between the posts; 7A, 4B and 5D. What color, name or number for the Black and where to get the correct FAC-FoMoCo tag ? Brian
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Awesome. Was looking for a good yellow, so thanks.
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Brian, I don't believe the number/letter between the posts are date codes but molding numbers. Date codes are shown in the stamps.
Texas Swede
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Brian, I don't believe the number/letter between the posts are date codes but molding numbers. Date codes are shown in the stamps.
Texas Swede
+1.
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Thank you guys. To bad that 5D one is the same date code as my air cleaner. Brian
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Thank you guys. To bad that 5D one is the same date code as my air cleaner. Brian
Why to bad? You can still use it along with your 5D dated air cleaner. Just make sure the ink stamp on the coil is dated correctly.
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Care to elaborate on ' ink stamp ' ? A SEARCH of 65 Coil did not include any further info. I know a couple of decals are available but short of having a specialty shop doing it I am unaware of a at home remedy. Thanks, Brian
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Brian,
It would be along the lines as this one currently on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-coil-marking-stamp-boss-302-429-428CJ-SCJ-FAC-12029-A-AUTOLITE-/141429229198?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20edd6c68e&vxp=mtr
Date on the right side of the stamp would naturally need to be correct for your car. I'm a decal user currently, but it would be a nice detail to upgrade for sure.
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Thank you for the post. I usually try to watch the costs vs parts and this one looks like it could get pricey. Brian
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I made the artwork for a stamp and took it to a local stamp maker where he gave me a quote of under $10. I left the date code part blank with the intent of making separate date code stamps for my three cars and four other local Mustang owners. The date code stamp were about $7 each. I didn't order one as some priorities came up.
The method I've seen that works was to mount the stamp face up on a frame and roll the coil to get the marking. The date code would be done "free hand".
Jim
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Hi Brian,
Here are pictures of the coil I use on my 65 Shelby, 5S275.
Texas Swede
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Thanks for the pictures. Now I understand the bracket w/hole and coil w/keyed bumps. How do I get a coil that looks like that ? Brian
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I bought the coil from JD Larson. The bracket with the hole I already had.
At that time, some years ago, I had a discussion about the coil. Should it have the button
or not? Should the bracket have the hole or not. Conclusion was I should have both.
My car was built in San Jose between May 7-10, 1965. Original engine assembly date May 3
and car received at Shelby American on May 13.
Texas Swede
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Thank you for sharing all that info. This AM, from JD Larson, that same 5DCB set up with correct bracket will cost you $450. Brian
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That is one fine looking coil you put together Texas Swede. Gorgeous! But Brian, I'm with you on this (and many other areas) as I'm trying to keep my costs down also. The folks out at: http://www.427galaxieregistry.com/Fordyellowtopcoil.html are looking better and better with those prices that keep going up. Market indicator I guess. I've dealt with JD Larson too and I like him. He's good. Our present coil is a good baseline for this type of restoration so will consider all this advice too. We don't have the resources where we live to get that stamp made either, especially at those great prices.
I might give that a crack if we did. I sure like the idea and how that came out too.
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$450, that is a lot. If I remember correctly I bought it for $150.
The funny thing though is that when mounted correctly at my 65, nothing
of the stamp can be seen as it's completely hidden behind the bracket.
I am attaching a picture taken in Paris, France of 5S114's engine compartment.
Same thing, no stamp can be seen.
Texas Swede
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Painting the coils top yellow has been around for some time now. No one really advertised what paint they used. I know of one judge who would let it slide if done well. I saw one last week on a $100K Boss 302 that had sloppy paint lines. It made me question the whole car. We have a lot of "quick paint job" restorations here on the west coast as rust is less of an issue.
If you are going to do it, do it well. Otherwise, questionable work just leads to closer inspection of everything.
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Of course can't find the correct paint color
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are you referring to the yellow or the black?? the yellow is mentioned in an above post. for black i have used SEM trim black #39143.
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I think Dkutz means he can't find the yellow. I can't either but looks to be available via online such as:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_8243-90-250896_4294729375%2B4294833363__
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Yes, can't find the yellow. I will try a couple other places tomorrow before I resort to ordering it.
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Color must be discontinued. I drove all over looking for it. No luck
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Found the paint at my local Menards, they had 4 more cans,
if you can't find locally it leave me a pm.
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(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/5f/5ff10b97-0fa2-485b-b93f-120075908a9a_400.jpg) (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Protective-Enamel-Satin-Amber-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-250896/204772400) Home Depot $22.56 for a case 12 oz. Protective Enamel Satin Amber Spray Paint (6-Pack) with free ship to store
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I will keep looking locally. hopefully it shows up. If not maybe I will bug on e of you to ship...
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I bought from Home Depot online. I picked up at store so no shipping. This was the least expensive and least hassle for me . Others experience may vary.
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I bought from Home Depot online. I picked up at store so no shipping. This was the least expensive and least hassle for me . Others experience may vary.
cool I will try that. Want to do some more detailing before I hit the new year show circuit...
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Home Depot online only sells by case, and isn't sold in stores. I've don't want to spend $30 for a case of paint I need paint to cover a two inch circle
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Home Depot online only sells by case, and isn't sold in stores. I've don't want to spend $30 for a case of paint I need paint to cover a two inch circle
If you spend hours driving all over kingdom come looking for it then you can be seen as being being penny wise and pound foolish. It depends on what you think your time is worth . For me it made more sense to suck it up and get the case then waste time and gas finding a smaller amount. But that is just me . Others my think differently.
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I have time not a lot of money. Just looking near home and work
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Menards carries this item at some of their stores. Handy if you are in the North Central US.
Otherwise, this is how shipping works (for me):
Merchandise Subtotal: $3.68
Processing Fees: $2.80
Shipping Charges: $6.71
Pretax Subtotal: $13.19
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Thanks for the update Bill. I'm going to place an order.
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Mark, I have a few cans left over from a case purchase if your interested cost plus shipping.
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A few questions, as I just received my Rustoleum paint today.
My current 2D stock coil needs a refresh and a better date code.
Are we still going with this date format (using "0LEC" as the decal's date code, for example)?
0=year
L=November
E=5th week
C=shift
Since most of my engine is end Dec 66/Jan 67
is there a batch of coils made that fits this date?
I was thinking of "7AAC".
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Is the coil stamp supposed to be really well done or like someone didn't care much and just stamped it a bit sloppy?
My current coil is certainly not done in a straight line (a very gradual "S" curve on the box outline.
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A few questions, as I just received my Rustoleum paint today.
My current 2D stock coil needs a refresh and a better date code.
Are we still going with this date format (using "0LEC" as the decal's date code, for example)?
0=year
L=November
E=5th week
C=shift
Since most of my engine is end Dec 66/Jan 67
is there a batch of coils made that fits this date?
I was thinking of "7AAC".
When was your engine assembled? That is the most important guiding date. Right now I would choose a December date
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When was your engine assembled? That is the most important guiding date. Right now I would choose a December date
Or better yet November IMO.
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FYI the date debate is pretty much mute since once properly indexed in the coil bracket as factory the date code is covered.
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Or better yet November IMO.
Is that because a large batch was run then?
The casting date of most engine pieces was in Dec/Jan. I don't recall the block assembly date and the block is hard to get at presently. I'm thinking early January.
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Is that because a large batch was run then?
No I don't believe they were made in big batches but instead were being produced consistently since they were used on millions of Ford products as well as supplying the aftermarket and over the counter needs of the company. I would just choose a wider gap if it were my car for an engine built in Jan
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Ok, got it. Thanks for your insight.
I'll whip up a vinyl paint mask and paint the silver.
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Menards carries this item at some of their stores. Handy if you are in the North Central US.
Otherwise, this is how shipping works (for me):
Merchandise Subtotal: $3.68
Processing Fees: $2.80
Shipping Charges: $6.71
Pretax Subtotal: $13.19
So for 1/2 the cost of a case from HD you get 1 can. Yea, I hate to have so much waste as well. Actually, I just did a search and do not see the case available from HD anymore.
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Finally back to the shop . . .
I've seen a number of yellow coils, but the correct black case to yellow plastic transition (paint) line is not clear to me.
On the left in this pic is a repop which I think has the correct line demarcation. None of the yellow 'plastic' portion is painted.
On the right is an original coil, but the plastic or yellow portion of the coil has been painted above the metal band by a restorer.
Is either paint scheme correct, from a concours perspective?
As an aside the original coil says "Dist." with the period included. As does "BAT."
The repop say "DISI" and "BAT" with no period. Odd that such an easy mistake to spot made it through into production.
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I've seen a number of yellow coils, but the correct black case to yellow plastic transition (paint) line is not clear to me.
On the left in this pic is a repop which I think has the correct line demarcation. None of the yellow 'plastic' portion is painted.
On the right is an original coil, but the plastic or yellow portion of the coil has been painted above the metal band by a restorer.
Have seen the vast majority of original coils with black over the yellow plastic end To me it always suggested a mask of sorts not often a sharp paint edge. You can find paint "blow outs" around the BAT and DIS post stands but not always
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+1 to the previous restorer !
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Have seen the vast majority of original coils with black over the yellow plastic end To me it always suggested a mask of sorts not often a sharp paint edge. You can find paint "blow outs" around the BAT and DIS post stands but not always
+++ 1
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The repro coils say "disi" instead of "dist"? Doesn't anyone know English overseas?
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The repro coils say "disi" instead of "dist"? Doesn't anyone know English overseas?
Don't the guys 'down under" call a distributor a dizzy? If so, "disi" may be an abbreviation. There's a lot of that going around (or was that the flu).
Jim :o
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I call it a dizzy, and I'm not upside-down (at least I don't thing so...).
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All this talk is making me dizzy, so on to the pics.
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All this talk is making me dizzy, so on to the pics.
Like a lot of repro parts ,close enough is good enough. To them anyway.