Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
21
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 SJ 390 Starter Motor & Solenoid
« Last post by bullitt68 on March 26, 2024, 11:47:59 PM »
C7AF-A would be for the 390 .
Ok great thanks, I think that is what the guys who is working on my starter said. How common are they to come across?
22
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 SJ 390 Starter Motor & Solenoid
« Last post by Bob Gaines on March 26, 2024, 11:46:54 PM »
Thanks Bob that is great information. Since I am getting the starter rebuilt, I will continue down that path and add a different starter to the long list of stuff I need to swap out at a later date. The goal is to get the car running and proceed forward and make the swap outs as I find suitable parts. If I wait to get every part I need to put the car together I  may not finish this car in this lifetime lol. Interestingly the guy rebuilding the starter told me the case number was not correct for my application as soon as he saw it. Should the case have an A or C stamp for my car. I want to make sure that I get the right case. Thanks
C7AF-A would be for the 390 .
23
1967 Mustang / Re: Ball Joints 67, Upper and Lower Arm Rebuilding
« Last post by Maksim27 on March 26, 2024, 10:01:25 PM »
This is how the OEM ball joint housing looks like all cleaned up.  NOS ball joints have different cup variations and the cups look more round on the edges as can been seen on Bills pictures.  The only thing that DC could improve are the BJ cups to mimic at least Moog cups and elongate the stud as Bill mentioned.  Not sure if the OEM housings can be molded and reproduced to concours & thoroughbred.   I remember in 8th grade Metal class we would put a metal piece in a sand to make a mold, then pour hot liquid to make another casting.  Does anyone have blacksmith abilities to reproduce the casting at least or maybe it's unsafe to do as the Supplier used a special casting to make these BJ housings. 

The last picture is how a similar NORS shaft Hex cups could look like to an OEM shaft cups.
24
1967 Mustang / Re: Ball Joints 67, Upper and Lower Arm Rebuilding
« Last post by Maksim27 on March 26, 2024, 09:45:08 PM »
I seen a pink daub on 65-66 UCAs.  Is there a reason for the daub or not all UCA's had them.  I have over 20 UCA's and seen on some of them.
25
1969 Mustang / Re: 1969 Firewall hole size needed.
« Last post by Scott302 on March 26, 2024, 09:04:04 PM »
Not why I need it.  I need to verify the original dimension.
Scott
26
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 SJ 390 Starter Motor & Solenoid
« Last post by bullitt68 on March 26, 2024, 08:52:16 PM »
  The center barrel case is the same 65-70 however the pictured case is stamped for a 1969 production car given the date code and a 289/302 automatic given the C7AF 110001 B engineering number. The nose cone is one of the most generic since it was used on a number applications over a number of years with only minor differences between different engineering numbers. The common denominator is that they will all interchange with each other and the nuance differences are on the inside of the nose cone when mounted. At least for the ones you posted pictures of.

Thanks Bob that is great information. Since I am getting the starter rebuilt, I will continue down that path and add a different starter to the long list of stuff I need to swap out at a later date. The goal is to get the car running and proceed forward and make the swap outs as I find suitable parts. If I wait to get every part I need to put the car together I  may not finish this car in this lifetime lol. Interestingly the guy rebuilding the starter told me the case number was not correct for my application as soon as he saw it. Should the case have an A or C stamp for my car. I want to make sure that I get the right case. Thanks
27
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 SJ 390 Starter Motor & Solenoid
« Last post by bullitt68 on March 26, 2024, 08:43:09 PM »
I am fortunate to have a rebuilder shop close by that I know the owner. He is second generation rebuilder that rebuilds mine the way I want it using the parts I want.  He is much younger then me so hopefully he will be around until I am done fussing with starters. I can think of a million things I would rather do and can do with my time for the nominal rebuild charge .This has worked for me for decades . Maybe find a rebuilder in your area that is open to rebuilding your starter core and you doing the final detailing once it is done. Just a thought.   

Hi Bob. I took your advice and there is a guy locally who rebuilds vintage starters for the collector car hobby. He is a starter guru and knows his stuff when it comes to pre '80's cars. He does alternators and starters etc. Reminds me of Doc in "Back to the Future". He's got a lab coast with the plastic pen holder lol. I refinished all my parts and media blasted the casing etc and brought him 2 old starters and one reman starter and asked if he could make me one good correct starter. He will use some new parts as required internally, but I agree and will let him rebuild it and test it while i focus on the other million things I need to work on to finish this car.
28
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 SJ 390 Starter Motor & Solenoid
« Last post by bullitt68 on March 26, 2024, 08:36:47 PM »

I have been having good luck finding NOS parts on eBay for just about anything. The Chinese junk is not usable from my experience. Rebuilding my own starters, water pumps etc has been pretty good.

Nice. I a planning to rebuild my starter using as many original parts as possible as well. It's great that we can still find NOS parts for these cars
29
Parts / Re: 69 70 Mustang Speaker Cover identification
« Last post by jwc66k on March 26, 2024, 07:28:48 PM »
Keep in mind that you are asking about an assembly line's part number which is different than a dealer's service stock number, the "ZZ" in this case. (The documentation for the service number refers back to and says to use the assembly line part number to make, identify and inspect the part, but the dealer orders, and stocks the service number.)
The door grill is shown in the 1969 Mustang Electric Manual (AM0028) pg55, item 3, as two options, C9ZA-18978-CW, standard door trim only, and C9ZA-18978-BW, Mustangs with decor door trim and all Cougars. These are the actual Ford design casting numbers. The 70 manual shows a -EW and -FW for the same use. The difference is most likely a design change (strengthen holes or webbing are the most common). As Scott shows in reply 10, it is not color.
Jim
30
1969 Mustang / Re: 1969 Firewall hole size needed.
« Last post by jwc66k on March 26, 2024, 07:08:57 PM »
I would assume that is for underdash harness, 14401, and if I got to punch a feed thru hole for any harness, I measure the diameter of the grommet's groove and use a chassis punch.
Him
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10