Author Topic: undercarrige detailing  (Read 1516 times)

Offline Ray Stormont

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 1
undercarrige detailing
« on: February 06, 2018, 08:09:25 PM »
This is my first post as a new member. I need instruction-information on getting the bottom of my 1970 Boss 302 ready before I remove the car from rotisserie and temporary install restored suspension and drive train so that I can gap straighten and prime car prior to paint. I have finished metal work over last two years and have completed re-build of motor transmission and suspension rear end etc. and need to get car on ground to gap and straighten and wanted to complete body underside first unless this is not correct way? I have included I think  recent photo from my home workshop of car on rotisserie(in background) and Marti for reference.

After some helpful input I realize I am in over my head and need help to get detailing correct so I took pictures of car today to show current status. I have seen drive shafts with up to five colored stripes, various markings, and undercoating in a very complex pattern. I will stop work on this car soon as I only have 1 or 2 days work left before I need to start detailing undercarriage and engine bay and interior so I can get car off rotisserie and begin gapping and exterior straightening prior to paint. Any sources or information for how to complete detailing would be greatly appreciated.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2018, 10:24:08 PM by Ray Stormont »

Offline Coralsnake

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 867
Re: undercarrige detailing
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2018, 10:25:21 PM »
I would suggest you only install the suspension once...

Perhaps someone can help with 1970 Dearborn details.

Offline Bob Gaines

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 8952
Re: undercarrige detailing
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2018, 11:15:59 PM »
I would suggest you only install the suspension once...

Perhaps someone can help with 1970 Dearborn details.
+1.  I would temporarily install a substitute suspension with a weighted mule engine substitute for use during paint if that is what your intention is or for body panel alignment prior to paint . You might consider putting the approximate weight of widow glass and mechanism in the doors while your at it.  As mentioned you only want to install restored parts once for best results. You do not want any restored driveline parts or suspension any where near the car during the paint process no matter how well someone try's to convince you that they can bag things up . Most good restorations use a purpose built body cart for paint. After the job is over they ether save it for the next job,pass it on to the next guy,sell to the body shop or another enthusiast . Just a few thoughts and ideas.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline J_Speegle

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24173
Re: undercarrige detailing
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2018, 11:36:31 PM »
First welcome to the site. Hope you find the information and assistance here helpful in your restoration related endeavours

This is my first post as a new member. I need instruction-information on getting the bottom of my 1970 Boss 302 ready before I remove the car from rotisserie and temporary install restored suspension and drive train so that I can gap straighten and prime car prior to paint.


Are your looking for details related to items that bolt on or details related to the finishes of the underside of the unibody? Makes a difference ;)


I have finished metal work over last two years and have completed re-build of motor transmission and suspension rear end etc. and need to get car on ground to gap and straighten and wanted to complete body underside first unless this is not correct way? ..............

 Guess your just thinking of installing the suspension for panel alignment and fitting. Nothing wrong with bolting on suspension to get it down on the ground to line up all the panels but it is extra effort. I would install just was needed with sub assembles that ar at least clean and have no oily surfaces and insulate them from the body with the thick style nylon washers on the mounts and hardware.  At this point you could limit it to 12 contact points or so,

Remember that doors will not hang the same empty (couple of threads on that here - as far as what other do) as they will with glass, window mech and other items installed.  Guess the body would be going back on the rotisserie for all the painting
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)