Author Topic: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips  (Read 605 times)

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #15 on: December 30, 2017, 06:13:22 PM »
I'm open to suggestions as to how to replicate this effect regardless of how it was initially created.

Since we're just bench racing the idea lets me offer a couple of possibilities to start with and we can work though the good and bad points of each.

1- Do a base coat of primer to build up the product while the car is upright along one panel region to keep control and not let drying get ahead of us if we tried to do to large an area at one time.  Once the drips are set but not hard choice a random number to squish (if possible roll the car upside down) Given the size of the possible drips you would choose (the larger ones) you might use a wet pencil eraser since it has rounded edges and is approximately an acceptable size.  Might even experiment with cutting a pattern in the tip to produce those lines we see

Finish by feathering in the edges of the primer you used for the process

2-  Do the same process with just the floor color over the whole floor and frame (firewall rear ward or firewall forward) and depress a percentage of the drips. Problem I see with this methods is that the perfect time to do this will be very narrow and there is allot of area to cover but if you only do a couple dozen it might work.

Just some quick thoughts to get the discussion going. Wish I had the time to test out the possibilities on some of the floor panels laying around
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline DKutz

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #16 on: December 30, 2017, 08:19:36 PM »
1965 Mustang Fastback 'A' Code, silver Blue Met, Med blue int. Auto, San Jose, 10/8/64 #1449**

Gone but not forgotten - 1996 Mustang GT

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2017, 08:34:03 PM »
Here is the car
http://blog.virginiaclassicmustang.com/search?q=Drips

Different car but that is the pictures I think Bill and I were thinking of in the first couple of posts. Thanks
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 1969 Cale II

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2017, 09:07:40 PM »
I talked with people that worked at the Lorain Ohio plant that built my Cyclone, (Yes, from 1969). There was a guy in a pit that had to paint overhead to paint the bottoms of the cars and they had larger, more volume guns than we use to paint our cars. I used a 2 qt pressure pot to paint the bottom color on my Cyclone, that gun really puts out the paint and did a good job of runs and drips. Isn't just as simple as the drip drying out and shrinking back that causes the drip to look like that. From the vintage videos I have seen, the paint guns used in the auto industry are much higher volume than we have, the pattern is just huge. 3 passes and a panel is done. No HVLP gun I have used has that large of a pattern, nor would I want to. The learning curve on no runs might be tough.

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #19 on: December 31, 2017, 04:27:33 AM »
Thanks for the suggestions.
The Virginia Mustang car has the right flavor of pops, but a bit milder than some of the moon craters in other pics. But, perfectly satisfactory.
I've seen the videos of the painters slathering paint on -- that's an amazing amount of paint volume. I'll bet the undercar paint jets had some volume too.

I talked with my painter earlier this morning and he suggested about what Virginia did -- thinned epoxy primer -- but thought some localized heat might help. I'll try a few of these ideas in small scale and let you see some results in a few days.

If I could ever shake this lousy winter cold I might be able to get something done, so don't wait up.
Bill
Concours 3/2/67 GT350
Driven     6/6/70 0T02G160xxx B302
Modified  5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 2+2
Race       65 Coupe front clip, Convertible frame mods and SFCs; 2+2 conversion; Many 'glass parts

Offline Mike_B_SVT

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #20 on: January 01, 2018, 02:00:13 AM »
I recall hearing from Adam at Mascar, that he would spray the underside with water before painting it in order to get drips that looked right.

I don't know if he had a layer of paint on it already, and then wet it and resprayed some more paint, or how exactly he did it.  But maybe you guys with experience will understand how that might work?
Mike B.

2003 Mustang Cobra Convertible
1 of 354 in Sonic Blue

1970 Cougar Eliminator (Competition Gold / Black Decor Interior), 428SCJ, Ram-Air, 4-speed w/ Hurst shifter
Built: Dearborn, Oct 6th, 1969
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Offline Bossbill

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #21 on: January 09, 2018, 08:11:04 PM »
It's been slow going with some sore back issues.

But I had a chance to red oxide a spare rear floor section and then begin some experimenting.

I haven't had time for the drips to fully harden yet and recoat with red oxide, so here they are without a recoat.
I've used different tools and processes to create this variety -- yes, some are failures -- and thought I'd post to gather opinions before I either paint or build up some more.

Although I have a rotisserie, I decided to make the "drips" while the car sat normally. So I situated the spare rear floor panel above my head in order replicate how I will eventually do this.

The three numbers represent three different tools to make the dots.
The horizontal line represents no heat applied above the line, and a pinpoint butane torch applied to the dots to make them explode below the line.


Bill
Concours 3/2/67 GT350
Driven     6/6/70 0T02G160xxx B302
Modified  5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 2+2
Race       65 Coupe front clip, Convertible frame mods and SFCs; 2+2 conversion; Many 'glass parts

Offline Brant

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Re: Creating faux undercarriage paint drips
« Reply #22 on: January 12, 2018, 08:57:40 PM »
Sorry, I just saw this thread.

The drips made on 6S033 were duplicated by Jeremy at Maple Hill Restoration. It's been something that he has been messing with for a while. We were always afraid that the drips may remain "soft", but they turned out to be very hard and durable, just like you see with the original ones.

The epoxy primer was just thinned down and sprayed at the right consistency to work. The drips/bubbles just kind of collapsed, and we were really pleased with the way it turned out.

The top coat colors were then put on and the correct "look" was still there.

Here are a few pictures: