ConcoursMustang Forums

5th Generation 2005 - 2014 => 2005 - 2014 => Topic started by: NEFaurora on January 03, 2015, 02:52:26 AM

Title: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on January 03, 2015, 02:52:26 AM

Subject: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.

This is a new thread that I am creating here to document and offer resolutions to this 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.  When the problem starts, You turn the ignition key, and you will here a Clicking or knocking/banging sound from underneath the dash.  I have searched all of the web, and the resolutions offered for this problem are extremely poor.  Anything of good use will be put here in this thread to address this problem since it is so "Rampant" in Ford Mustangs from 2005-2009 and beyond and other Ford vehicles.  This thread will mostly focus on the S197 platform since this IS a Mustang forum.  I expect this thread to eventually be the "Go To" place for this issue on the entire web.  Since I have this issue currently in my own 2007 Ford Mustang Vehicle, I will eventually post up pictures and video to help deal with this issue and help people resolve the problem without having to go to the Ford Dealer and Spend over $600 to get it fixed when their car is no longer under warranty.  I only ask that Any/All posters of this thread Please stay on target and Please do not veer off of the subject too much.  Thank You all. 

Tony K.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on January 03, 2015, 03:48:56 AM

To Start this thread,

Here below is a typical example of the problem.   This guy below in the video had no idea what the problem was, but his video beautifully shows the issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gV3n5kIaHwY

:o)

Tony K.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on January 03, 2015, 03:54:01 AM
From what I currently know:

There are (4) Blend door actuators behind the dash.  (1) is behind the dash cluster and panel, and the other (3) are behind the glove compartment area.  (3) of the actuators are all the same part number, but (1) of them is different, with a different part number.  I do not know which one yet.

Still investigating.

Here is a weblink to another forum talking about the subject with some other links as well:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2014-mustangs/680494-is-your-ac-making-clicking-noises.html


:o)

Tony K.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on January 03, 2015, 03:59:13 AM
Here's another weblink that I found, but some real pics of a REAL car would really help here.  I aim to fix that soon.

Check out this weblink on the subject.. Some good info:

http://www.schematicsdiagram.com/2012/03/how-to-replace-blend-door-actuator-on.html

:o)

Tony K.

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rodster on January 03, 2015, 03:22:24 PM
Interesting, I never heard this on my 09 GT but then again, it's still under warranty.  ;)

What does Ford do to fix it?  Sounds so common there should be a TSB on it?
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on January 03, 2015, 05:55:01 PM
From what I currently know:

There are (4) Blend door actuators behind the dash.  (1) is behind the dash cluster and panel, and the other (3) are behind the glove compartment area.  (3) of the actuators are all the same part number, but (1) of them is different, with a different part number.  I do not know which one yet.

Still investigating.

Here is a weblink to another forum talking about the subject with some other links as well:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2014-mustangs/680494-is-your-ac-making-clicking-noises.html


:o)

Tony K.


You are dealing with a problem that is not related to Ford products alone. I work as a mechanic and have seen this mostly on GM vehicles. The amount of work depends what actuator has failed. In the case of the first Youtube video you posted, it sounds like the "mode door" actuator.

Secondly, there will be codes stored in the BCM to verify what problem(s) are going on. Many times the dash could need removed, making a bad idea for a basic do-it-yourselfer to attempt doing it. Besides, without a code verification, you could have more than 1 of the 4 actuators on the fritz and how would you like going back in and pulling the dash a 2nd time?
Just my 2 cents and I pray my 05 stays well behaved  :o
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on January 03, 2015, 08:32:45 PM
"Interesting, I never heard this on my 09 GT but then again, it's still under warranty.  ;)" - All I can say is, It WILL happen soon, Hope it happens before the warranty expires.  There are already people complaining who own 2012 and 2013 cars that have the issue.

"What does Ford do to fix it?"  - Ford does fix it under warranty free of charge, but if the warranty has expired, You are on your own!  (S.O.L.)

"Sounds so common there should be a TSB on it?" - There is a TSB on it, but it basically says just to bring the car to your Ford Dealer for service... Go figure.  The average charge is about $600.00 for the repair (On just one Actuator!) - Highway robbery if you ask me.

All of the (4) actuators are accessible underneath and behind the dashboard cluster.  The only problem is that you have to be on your back and have a good flashlight to get the ones under the dash behind the glovebox.  Mine of course was the one behind the dash cluster that went bad.. so I'll be dealing with that one, but checking the others as well behind the glovebox as well.  There is some good news with this.  One is that the actuator replacements from Rockauto.com and O"reilly Auto Parts are on about $30 for each actuator.  The other good news is that when you have a bad actuator, You can tell it's bad by it's knocking sound.  You Just have to feel the actuator to see which one knocks.  That is the good news.  The bad news is that you have to get on your back finally and do the job yourself!  I'll take some back muscle pain VS. having to pay a dealer $600 bucks.  That is a good trade off.  If you are overweight and can't get on your back, Then perhaps paying the dealer is the only option, But the goal of this thread is to make is less painfull and easier for everyone.  The previous poster is correct about GM Cars and Trucks also having the problem.  Those actuators in the GM vehicle are differently design, but still have the same basic issue.  The NYLON GEARS strip and go bad, but they are removable.  I wouldn't be surprised if somewhere down the line if someone were to come out with a kit with the identical gears in a repair kit made of aircraft aluminum to finally solve the problem.  The auto industry really CHEEZED out when it came to making these actuators.  Usually, You'll get 3-4 years of use out of one before it finally goes bad.  The good thing for us though is that the (4) Mustang Actuators are relatively easy to get to - to replace compared to other vehicles, with the one behind the dash cluster being the hardest, but even that one is not too bad.   You really don't have to run any codes to find the BAD actuators, They will be knocking like all hell and will be easy to find.  After installing the replacement actuators, You can cycle through the whole A/C system to see if the problem disappears.  After a full cycle of the A/C system, If there is no more knocking heard, and everything works correctly, You are done.  No codes need to be run to do this fix, although it would never hurt of course.  Since owning my 2007 Mustang Convertible, This Actuator problem has been THE ONLY real problem that I have ever had with my car, other than having to re-glue the door vinyl on my door panels..but that was easy..and didn't cost a penny!  The car has been diehard reliable with no ther complaints.

I'm going to order my actuators soon, and will start the project documenting everything here with pictures and most likely video as well. with my IPOD 4S Touch.

:o)

Tony K.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on January 03, 2015, 08:50:23 PM
The (4) Actuators themselves are only held in by 2 screws, and one plastic clip plug that easily comes out.  The big trick is that once you go to replace one, You have to make sure that actuator plastic crank pin fits correctly into the hole that it came out of when you go to replace it with a new one.  That is the big trick.  It is difficult to see when you are on your back!...lol...

Tony K.

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rodster on January 03, 2015, 10:59:43 PM
All I can say is, It WILL happen soon, Hope it happens before the warranty expires.  There are already people complaining who own 2012 and 2013 cars that have the issue.

Hmmm, still a problem on the new cars? Too bad Ford didn't make an improvement.  ::)


Guess I better get cycling through mine to get them to fail -before- the warranty runs out!  ;)

Slightly off topic, but these type of problems are the reason I consider starting to trade up every few years to always have something with a warranty.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: ChrisV289 on January 04, 2015, 12:27:41 AM
Mine went out on my 09 as well but was covered under the extended warranty.  What sucks is a weld broke on my catalytic converter and that is not covered.  They want$1700 to fix that (1200 - part, 500 labor).  ordered a direct fit replacement from Summit for $410 and will do it myself.  Dealers want way to much to fix things...
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on January 04, 2015, 08:57:15 AM
The 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater issue seems to be the only major gremlin in the 2005-2009 cars.... That's pretty good if you look at the big picture.  The only other known issues I know with the S197 platform are the gas tank filler problem on the '05 and '06 Models, and the '05 and '06 Convertible rear windows coming unglued by themselves.  These issues were both fixed with the '07 Models.  I don't know of any other major S197 issues....Ones that matter anyway.. Re-gluing s197 vinyl on door panels don't count...lol...

:o)

Tony K.

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rodster on January 04, 2015, 01:01:10 PM
The 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater issue seems to be the only major gremlin in the 2005-2009 cars.... That's pretty good if you look at the big picture.  The only other know issues I know with the S197 platform are the gas tank filler problem on the '05 and '06 Models, and the '05 and '06 Convertible rear windows coming unglued by themselves.  These issues were both fixed with the '07 Models.  I don't know of any other major S197 issues....Ones that matter anyway.. Re-gluing s197 vinyl on door panels don't count...lol...

:o)

Tony K.

That's good to know.  ;)  I like my 09 and the body style so not anxious to trade up.

Is the Actuator the actual cause of the problem?  Wait, I think I hear mine clicking now....better get them all changed before the warranty expires.  ;)

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: Deuce on January 19, 2015, 12:04:34 PM
These issues were both fixed with the '07 Models.  I don't know of any other major S197 issues....Ones that matter anyway..

At 90K miles I had the dealer change the spark plugs for scheduled service; I opted not to attempt myself because of all the bad press.  I think I read somewhere that the replacement Motorcraft plugs are of improved design to lessen the chance of breaking off in the spark plug holes.  So, not sure if considered an issue or not, anymore.

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on March 29, 2015, 12:18:08 AM
Well Ok!

It was gorgeous outside today here in FLA... About 72 degrees and not too Sunny..  A perfect day for my A/C Blend door actuator repair project.  Well, I dug into it!  Dreading this project for months knowing what was in store, I tore into my 2007 Dash and didn't look back.  I took quite a few good photos which I will post here soon!  I might do a video also on it.  We'll see.   Anyway, I took out the dash cluster and I located the "problem" hidden actuator located all the way to the right side right behind the dash cluster.  If you have huge hands, Don't even attempt this project.  You have to contort your hands quite a bit.  I have average size hands and it's been quite a bear, but I was able to get in there and remove the Actuator.  The bottom screw of the actuator I was able to screw out, but the top screw, You can't even get to it, so I had to break off the corner of where the 2nd screw is attached in order to get the actuator out.  The top 2nd screw, You can't even get to, but I have a small plan for that as well.  Since the actuator was being replaced as I said, I just broke off the corner of it just to get it out..so putting in a new actuator, It will obviously have a new unbroken corner hole so I can finally put the top 2nd screw back in where it belongs.  Seeing as how you can't even get to the top 2nd screw of the actuator, I am going bust out my dremel and cut-off wheel and do some minor plastic cutting so I can maneuver an 8mm long closed loop wrench to attach the troublesome top 2nd screw.  I tried using every 8mm tool known to man to get the 2nd top screw out..and no dice.  It's in a weird spot, and the A/C plastic return plenum chamber is in the way of the bolt, but you can move the plastic chamber up with a little force to kind of feel the bolt with your hands. By cutting out a small piece of plastic with the dremel, This will solve the problem of being able to get to and tighten the screw.  Why Ford didn't do this, I have no idea.  It's just a small piece of plastic that I have to cut out..About an inch to inch and a half.. No big size... The dash cluster will cover it all and no one will ever see it.  I will update with new pics to come that I took today.  I don't know what the designers of Ford were thinking when they designed the area around this 2nd top screw of the actuator.  So Stay tuned!

PS: Just for kicks, I took apart the actuator and of course, It had two broken teeth off of one of the main nylon gears.. no surprise.

:o)

Tony K.


Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on March 29, 2015, 09:07:40 AM
...I am going bust out my dremel and cut-off wheel and do some minor plastic cutting so I can maneuver an 8mm long closed loop wrench to attach the troublesome top 2nd screw.  I tried using ever 8mm tool know to man to get the 2nd top screw out..and no dice.  .


Having been a mechanic at a dealership and as a self-employed professional mechanic for over 30 years now, I have to say there ARE shortcuts that benefit having to do things "By the book". I will always be "FOR" doing shortcuts that do not require butchering the car to accomplish the job with 100% reliable work. I have heard and seen countless horror stories of things the "hacks" have done at the dealerships (and private garages, car owners etc.) to save time. In the professional world, EVERYTHING is commission-based, so the faster you get done, the more money you take home. This inspires the "shortcuts" but promotes doing "hack-jobs". There are limits to how much "corner-cutting" I support.

Let's just say, should my '05 GT ever need the actuator behind the cluster...and since I have "big hands", I'll look for another way to do this particular job. Maybe a video WILL help those of us who may eventually need to do this. Maybe it isn't as bad as your written description sounds (to me anyways) and it really is a good way to "Gitt-'er-Done" but an inch to an inch and a half of chopping sounds like an awful lot IMHO.

Well, sorry to write what probably sounds harsh but I've had to repair messes made after shortcuts. Sometimes the cost of those repairs exceed the value of the cars. Shortcuts concern me till I can actually SEE the proof of time-saved vs. quality of the job done.

Richard
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rodster on March 29, 2015, 10:35:59 AM
I agree we all want to avoid 'hack jobs' but sometimes Ford leaves us no choice. A good example is 1999 SVT Contour.  The hole in the floor is 5" when Ford used a 5 1/2" fuel pump. 

My choice was to either make some nice cuts in the floor and peel back the sheet metal slightly or.... drain the (naturally)  ::)  full tank of gas, remove the exhaust, disconnect filler and return fuel lines, relocate brake cables and a bunch of other stuff just to drop the tank to access the fuel pump. I choose to make some nice clean cuts. Part of my reasoning was, if the fuel pump goes again and I'm out on the road, I'm ready for a quick fix.

In my book this is still a 'hack job' but a necessary choice.

The blend door actuator problems scare me on my '09.  When I take it in for the Spring service I'll have to check on extending the warranty!

Thanks for the write up and pictures to follow...

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on March 30, 2015, 05:27:19 AM

Believe me boys,  I am the last one to start cutting anything to get a job done.   But I believe IT IS necessary in this case.  I will measure the cut.. I think that it's an inch if I "eyed" it..  I would not cut anything if I didn't have to... but I'm not going to spend 2 days dis-assembling my 2007 dash for a 1 inch cut.  No way.  I've been working on cars for over 30 years...so I'm a seasoned pro and a mechanic as well.  Another reason for the 1 inch cut is that we all know that this is NOT going to be the last time these parts are replaced.  It will also make it easier for the next time around years from now as well.

I'll post the pics I took tomorrow.  It's too late now and I'm going to bed.

:o)

Tony K.

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on March 30, 2015, 07:50:53 AM
 From the OP's first post to this thread:

"I expect this thread to eventually be the "Go To" place for this issue on the entire web..." "...I will eventually post up pictures and video to help deal with this issue and help people resolve the problem without having to go to the Ford Dealer and Spend over $600 to get it fixed when their car is no longer under warranty. "


Maybe, as a reminder,  what needs mentioned first here is that this is a Concours site and repair work that doesn't "RESTORE" the vehicles isn't the primary focus of this forum. Repair work is repair work. Restoration work is restoration work. I believe the answer to one primary question should be asked before going into action, especially in "Restoration" work but even in "Repair Work" :

"If I do this, can this work ever be 'undone' in the future" Is there an "UNDO button for this job, should I ever need to go back to concours...as it was delivered to the original owner"


Please, let us see your work. As I have said before, for the right reasons, I will do shortcuts. But please also understand that I have learned the "fastest way" isn't always the "best way" and I believe before a person reading this post goes the "fast way", they should also fully understand & know the "correct" (or "by the book") way.

Richard

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: AU SNK on March 30, 2015, 09:26:16 AM
look forward to seeing the pics on this. my 2010 Shelby has been making this noise for about a year.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: drummingrocks on March 30, 2015, 10:20:08 AM
From the OP's first post to this thread:

"I expect this thread to eventually be the "Go To" place for this issue on the entire web..." "...I will eventually post up pictures and video to help deal with this issue and help people resolve the problem without having to go to the Ford Dealer and Spend over $600 to get it fixed when their car is no longer under warranty. "


Maybe, as a reminder,  what needs mentioned first here is that this is a Concours site and repair work that doesn't "RESTORE" the vehicles isn't the primary focus of this forum. Repair work is repair work. Restoration work is restoration work. I believe the answer to one primary question should be asked before going into action, especially in "Restoration" work but even in "Repair Work" :

Please, let us see your work. As I have said before, for the right reasons, I will do shortcuts. But please also understand that I have learned the "fastest way" isn't always the "best way" and I believe before a person reading this post goes the "fast way", they should also fully understand & know the "correct" (or "by the book") way.

Richard

Richard, can I respectfully say that you've made your point. Ad nauseum.  The whole point of Tony's post was to explain what worked for him.  That's fine if you don't agree about his approach to solving the problem, but come on, don't derail the thread because of it.  Let it go.   :o 

Tony, I think your approach is excellent, and it's not a hack job in any way.  Thanks for documenting what worked for you.  You're working smarter, not harder, and there's no shame in that.

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on March 30, 2015, 12:34:14 PM
Richard, can I respectfully say that you've made your point. Ad nauseum.  The whole point of Tony's post was to explain what worked for him.  That's fine if you don't agree about his approach to solving the problem, but come on, don't derail the thread because of it.  Let it go.   :o 


My Bad! I took out the mumbo-jumbo  :o that must have belabored my points. I simply do not think a 2.7 hr. job is all that difficult, and that's the book time. I was under the belief that this job would take two days or some stupid rediculous time like others I had done.

Now I kinda want to do one, just for the excersise...record it & TIME IT!  :D  :o

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on March 30, 2015, 11:10:11 PM
"You're working smarter, not harder, and there's no shame in that."

+1 to that.

Here are the pics..  I am working on more as the project progresses...and video possibly..

I am glad to see that this thread is getting some serious heavy traction!  Try finding a good article on this issue anywhere on the web. There isn't one!  Up until now.. This is it!  I was shocked to see how long this issue has been out there (since 2005!) and how poor the coverage of it was (Really Poor!).  Well here we go.. Here are the pics.  Please, All comments and suggestions are welcomed!....and yes I know this is a "Concours" website.. Point well taken.  As mentioned above, This is a repair..and nothing more!  Maybe 10-20 years from now a better way will be found to repair/replace this actuator using special tools without having to rip out the entire dash, Until that time, This is what we are dealing with.  Please feel free to comment away..


Pic 1:  - This is what your S197 (2005-2009) dash will look like once you start tearing into things...(2010 may differ slightly obviously).  You have to remove the screws to the trim panel that holds the headlight switch assemblies first, then start removing any plastic panels in the way.

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010002_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010002_1.jpg.html)

Pic 2:  - You have to remove the steering wheel in order to remove the top plastic column piece - Make sure that your battery is disconnected here to avoid any accidental Airbag Pre-detonation! On each side of the steering wheel column, there is a small plastic bolt cover, remove it from both sides and remove the bolts.  This enables you to remove the airbag, but leave the Airbag wires attached and just move it to the side (the airbag/horn assembly will slide away to the side while you are leaving it connected), Now you can take the steering wheel off by removing the center bolt.  Take out the center bolt and remove the steering wheel, but just balance the steering wheel with your legs (or on your legs) while the airbag is still attached. You'r only doing this for about two minutes...so don't fret.  With the steering wheel off, Now you can remove the next two pieces.  Lower the column as low as it can go by using the column adjustment pull lever below the column, Put the column down all the way as far as it can go.  Remove the top Black Plastic column trim piece.  Now remove the Dash Cluster trim Bezel behind it.You should now be looking at the bare dash cluster assembly.  It is held in by four small hex screws.  Remove them, and move the Dash Cluster bezel to the left side to get it out of the way.   What you are looking at now is the Bare Dash.  You've gotten everything out of the way, Now it's onto the problem child Actuator.  Look all the way to the far right behind the dash.  Use a flashlight.  You will see a Heater Plenum tube (ABOVE), a Dashboard Stability Metal Crush bar (Below), and the Heater Airflow Actuator and wire (to the very far right) - See the next 3 pics...  Also, The steering wheel here is not bolted on and "hanging by a thread" It's just sitting on its hex nub that the bolt - bolts into.  I had removed the bolt earlier..

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010003_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010003_1.jpg.html)


Pic 3:

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010004_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010004_1.jpg.html)


Pic 4:

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010005_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010005_1.jpg.html)


Pic 5:

Here is a Close-Up View of the Upper Right Corner.   You can plainly see the Actuator that must be removed.  If you look hard enough, You can see the lower 8mm hex screw that holds in the center bottom portion of the actuator.  Get a 8mm socket and remove this screw.  Once that has been done, Now the actuator is ONLY held in by a 2nd corner screw ONLY now.  You can't get to the screw, so have fun trying.  I literally spent over an hour and used every 8mm tool known to man - You literally can't get in there with a 8mm socket because the damn upper Heater Plenum Plastic tube is slammed right onto the 2nd Top Hex Screw, and I finally figured that just breaking the corner of the actuator was really the best bet going to get this puppy out, so that's exactly what I did! (At least It was planned!..lol..), I just grabbed the actuator and slowly moved (rocked) it back and forth and at the same time, I removed the attached Plastic Actuator arm on the back of the Actuator from the slotted actuator latch located in the dash in the side of the heater plenum (piece of cake), and the corner of the Actuator purposely broke off and the actuator was now out in my hand...but the wiring was still attached so I had to remove that next.  There is a RED Plastic safety clip that holds in the plug. Get a small micro flat head screwdriver and back out the red clip slowly. Save the RED clip for later use. The plug will come out now and the actuator is now FREE!  HOORAH!   

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010006_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010006_1.jpg.html)


Geez, Have you ever seen so much Surface Rust behind a dash on a 2007 car?? I think my '65 and '66 'verts have less.. LOL....and I baby this car..Well, Ok, I drive the tar out of it.. but I maintain it well, and it's got 79,000 miles on it...Not bad for a 2007.  Do you ever think that after 50+ years of Ford making Mustangs that they would ever use any kind of coatings on the bare metal behind the dash?? If they haven't by now,  Probably Not.  It might be something to bring up at the next Ford Board of Directors Meeting..lol... I'm betting that all the bare metal behind your S197 dash looks just like mine..  Take a look someday.. You may be shocked...lol..  Anyway Enough levity for now....

Getting back to the issue at hand..

The 2nd Top Hex Screw with the old broken corner piece of the actuator corner is still up there, but we'll get back to that in a moment.  Right now, Go to the web and/or your Ford Dealer and order the correct actuator!   See the pics below:


Pic 6: 

Front of New parts bag (Left)  and old broken Actuator (Right)..

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010030_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010030_1.jpg.html)


Pic 7:

Rear of New parts bag (Left) and old broken Actuator (Right)..

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010036_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010036_1.jpg.html)


Pic 8:

A Close-Up of the old broken Actuator (Purposely Broken off corner on Upper Right)..

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010041_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010041_1.jpg.html)


Pic 9:

Another Close-Up of the old broken Actuator (Purposely Broken off corner on Upper Left now -Simply Filpped over with cover removed)..

Take a good look at the inside of the Actuator and you can now see why these things don't last.  Look at the White Nylon cog on the Uppermost left...See The missing Teeth??  It's stupid crap like this that gives car companies a bad name.  A 35 cent broken piece on a $40,000 car = lots of trouble that could have been avoided.   I would "assume" in the future that "Someone" - Scott Drake (AHEM!)...will probably come out with a light alloy cog replacement set to replace the cheap Nylon Plastic cogs that are in there.  The actuator is actually a Serviceable unit believe it or not!   See Pic Below..

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010047_1.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010047_1.jpg.html)


Pic 10:  THE PLAN:

Ok, Well Now, Up to this point I've been winging it as I go..and so far so good!...No major issues...Yet...

The 2nd Top Hex Screw with the old broken corner piece of the actuator corner is still up there...Remember that??  Well, Now that the old Actuator is now gone, It's now time to remove that hard to get to nearly impossible (not kidding) 2nd Top Hex screw.  Even with the Actuator gone now, Because the damn Heater Plenum Tube is so wide and still in the way, There is literally NO WAY to get a small 8mm Socket with any type of extention in there.. Believe me, I tried...and tried..and even tried some more!..and I don't give up easy!  What I did gladly happen to notice though was I could get my thin closed loop 8mm wrench in there, and get it onto the hex screw, but I had absolutely NO THROW to move the wrench back and forth to remove/re-install the hard to get to 2nd Hex screw.  So What to do?? CREATE THE THROW.  Here is the plan bellow... What do you think??  Got a better idea??  I am all ears on this one..  I plan to get my Dremmel tool with cut-off wheel and Cut Along the dotted white lines below to Create the wrench throw that I need to complete the project.  As you can Plainly see, I'll have to lop-off the top right screw hole/nut that help secure the upper right corner of the dash cluster.  3 out of 4 screws ain't that bad I guess, but what I'll do is secure the existing hex screw that goes through the cluster with the cut off hole/nut for a complete uniform look...and from the front of the dash cluster...no one would even know a cut has been made...Well, That's the idea...  All comments Welcomed!  This is Currently a Free-Flowing process and is subject to change at any moment!  Suggestions???  See Pic! :

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010024a.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010024a.jpg.html)


I was kicking this around as well to get the job done..by cutting a bit less..It's harder maneuverability with the wrench though..but might work OK as well.. I would remove the nut here as well, but put it back when it came time to button everything back up after the Actuator is installed... Thoughts?

Alternate CUT-PLAN "B" :

(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/NEFaurora/P1010024b.jpg) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/NEFaurora/media/P1010024b.jpg.html)


Also, After this "Behind the Dash" Airflow Actuator project has been completed, I will also get pics and info on the other remaining A/C Actuators underneath and Behind the Glovebox to round-out and "Complete" this thread.  The "Behind the Dash" Airflow Actuator is obviously the hardest to get at Actuator out of all of them.  The others are hard, but not that hard.  We'll cover those much later..


More To Come!

Stay Tuned!

:o)

Tony K.




Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on March 31, 2015, 06:57:34 AM
Without trying to derail the thread (again?), here are some images and instructions from the 2005 Mustang Ford service manual (12/04 edition, should be similar for '05-'09), images that can help assist any reader in choosing their own battle of gaining access to that screw. I included all of the dash removal procedures too, (again, not to derail the thread) to show the alternative "by the book" method. Keep in mind that the complete REMOVAL of the dash is over-stated, it would appear you only need to loosen and move the dash away about an inch or two back, leaving most of the wiring and such attached.

It bolls down to this: All anybody really needs is to gain access to that hidden screw so the choice is to either:

1.) cut the dash as pictured -or-

2.)  loosen & move the dash backwards an inch or two.

3.) (unkown if these will work or not) locate or buy/borrow a tool that can possibly get to the hidden screw, such as: (not saying these will do the trick...but they often have for me on such jobs like this)
https://store.snapon.com/Shallow-Universal-mm-chrome-Socket-Metric-Universal-Shallow-8-mm-6-Point-P642258.aspx
https://store.snapon.com/Magnetic-Adaptors-Adaptor-Magnetic-1-4-Internal-drive-1-17-32--P631046.aspx
NOTE: the magnetic adapter is a nice PLUS, but not required in most instances. It does help hold onto the tiny screws from falling off into nowhere-to-be-found somewhere in the dash. (it magnetizes the socket)


3.) Still looking for other ideas
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: Deuce on March 31, 2015, 12:58:56 PM
This is thread is evolving to an impressive resource, rich with information and photos!  Thanks for the contributions.

I guess we all assume the blend door actuators in our 2005-2009 cars will fail eventually?  I wonder if there are preventative techniques to extend service life.   
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: WT8095 on March 31, 2015, 01:26:52 PM
I wonder if there are preventative techniques to extend service life.   

Roll the windows down?   ::)  ;D
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on March 31, 2015, 01:50:44 PM
"I guess we all assume the blend door actuators in our 2005-2009 cars will fail eventually?"

You can bank on it.

Their average service life is only about 4-5 years.. if that..  Some people have had them go at 2-3 years.  If they last any longer... It's blind luck!

PS: You can forget trying to use those Snap-On attachments.. I have both of them, and they didn't work.  The problem is that you can't get them in there because the Heater Plenum is in the way and puts so much pressure on the socket, that it just knocks it out, but you CAN get the wrench in there so that it will stay which is good enough.


:o)

Tony K.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rodster on April 01, 2015, 12:42:17 AM
Seems the dealerships must be swamped with these repair  jobs?  ???
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on April 01, 2015, 03:56:52 AM

"Seems the dealerships must be swamped with these repair  jobs?"

The going rate at the Ford Dealers for this above repair job behind the dash is $600 for the repair and parts.  Most people balk at the price and just live with the problem/noise.

:o)

Tony K.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on April 01, 2015, 05:20:25 AM
"

PS: You can forget trying to use those Snap-On attachments.. I have both of them, and they didn't work.  The problem is that you can't get them in there because the Heater Plenum is in the way and puts so much pressure on the socket, that it just knocks it out, but you CAN get the wrench in there so that it will stay which is good enough.
:

I gave the previos post an update to reflect this response
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: Deuce on April 01, 2015, 10:31:38 AM
2008 GT, 145K miles

What we're learning is that the weak plastic gears strip inside the actuator mechanism and cause the failure.  If the cycling of the actuator is minimized, that would seem to be a preventative technique. 

Living in mild CA climate, for example I really don't change internal cab cold/heat settings too often.  I usually run fan setting on low / #1; while temperature selector dial and vent settings aren't adjusted that often.  Just a thought...

 
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rodster on April 01, 2015, 10:57:11 AM

Take a good look at the inside of the Actuator and you can now see why these things don't last.  Look at the White Nylon cog on the Uppermost left...See The missing Teeth??  It's stupid crap like this that gives car companies a bad name.  A 35 cent broken piece on a $40,000 car = lots of trouble that could have been avoided.   I would "assume" in the future that "Someone" - Scott Drake (AHEM!)...will probably come out with a light alloy cog replacement set to replace the cheap Nylon Plastic cogs that are in there.  The actuator is actually a Serviceable unit believe it or not!   

Same problem with '98-'00 Contour sunroof motors. No one has made a replacement gear so a good part to look for in junkyards assuming you can find a good one.

Seems Ford doesn't learn.... ::)
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: drummingrocks on April 01, 2015, 11:38:52 AM
Without trying to derail the thread (again?), here are some images and instructions from the 2005 Mustang Ford service manual (12/04 edition, should be similar for '05-'09), images that can help assist any reader in choosing their own battle of gaining access to that screw. I included all of the dash removal procedures too, (again, not to derail the thread) to show the alternative "by the book" method. Keep in mind that the complete REMOVAL of the dash is over-stated, it would appear you only need to loosen and move the dash away about an inch or two back, leaving most of the wiring and such attached.


Nice, I agree that it'd be worth trying to loosen the dash rather than cut the area mentioned.  Since this is such a widespread problem, I too believe that the aftermarket will eventually come up with a gear made of a different/better material, kind of like they did with the nylon gears in Fox-body convertible quarter windows.  If this many of these actuators are breaking just a few years into ownership, imagine the fun we're going to have 40 years from now!!   ;D
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on April 01, 2015, 01:31:08 PM
"If the cycling of the actuator is minimized.."

Dude,

ALL of the actuators recycle once the ignition key is turned.  They are programmed to all go into a recycle mode right before the car starts once they get juice going to them.

Good luck with that one.

I found this out when I first investigated the issue.

:o)

Tony K.



Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rodster on April 01, 2015, 10:12:48 PM
"If the cycling of the actuator is minimized.."

Dude,

ALL of the actuators recycle once the ignition key is turned.  The are programmed to all go into a recycle mode right before the car starts once they get juice going to them.

Good luck with that one.

I found this out when I first investigated the issue.

:o)

Tony K.

Really?

Great....   :o

Uh, don't start the car so often or keep it running instead of shutting it off.... ::)
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on April 13, 2015, 11:21:34 PM


By the way, In case anyone was wondering, My 2007 Mustang V6 only has 79,000 miles on it.  Low miles considering its age..

I plan to wrap up this project soon, but I got sick with the flu this last week and a half and its been raining like cats and dogs here in FLA this past week.  I'm waiting for things to dry up a bit.. It might be another week before I can get back on this project to complete it.

:o)

Tony K.


Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on May 02, 2015, 10:48:19 PM
I got back on this project this morning...  I was able to get the "hard to get to" top hex screw out from the broken corner of the actuator from behind the dash...It took me almost an hour to get it out.  I have been working this project awhile, and it has been a learning process indeed.   I have come to the absolute conclusion as I listed earlier above that in order to get out the "hard to get to" actuator behind the dash cluster,  You can remove the bottom Hex screw for it lying on your back from underneath the dash, but for removing the top screw, You MUST break off the corner of the Bad Actuator with the top screw still in, in order to remove the Bad actuator.  No way you are going to get to that top screw.. No way.  Once the corner is broken off, the Actuator comes right out through the top of the dash.  Now that the old actuator is out, You can now barely get to top hex screw with the broken off corner, and remove it, but you can get to it.  Putting it back in once the New actuator has been installed is totally different story.  So far, I installed the new actuator from the top of the dash, and made damn sure that the plastic pivot pin is in it's pivot hole (VERY IMPORTANT!, If the plastic pivot pin is not installed correctly in its correct position, You will jam and ruin the new actautor!..so make damn sure that the plastic pivot pin is in its correct place in the slot.)....then after the actuator was correctly positioned with the pivot pin installed in the slot, I went underneath the dash on my back again and tightened the lower hex screw of the actuator to secure it nice and tight, but not mother tight..  I then went back above again and made sure that the plastic pivot pin was still in the slot, It was, and it and the actuator were nice and snug and not going to go anywhere.  I then tested the entire A/C system...  and Voila..!!!!!  The problem was fixed,  The actuator works as it should...and now I have nice cold blowing A/C.   I am debating whether I should waste anymore time in my life to try and install the top actuator "hard to get to" -should really be - "impossible to get to..Top Actuator screw"...  I might just leave it out since the actuator is tight enough with the lower center screw holding the entire actuator on.  The actuator is not heavy..and it's not going anywhere...so I may just leave it out as this project is coming to a close.   *** I did find out though that it's not necessary to take your entire dash apart to do this job....Just follow along my procedure as I did above, but I also found out that It's also NOT necessary to cut any plastic to get to the Top actuator screw, since even if you did so, You still would not be able to tighten it anyway...with the Hard plastic Vent Plenum behind the dash in the Mother F'n way..So you can completely IGNORE my rudimentary Cutting photos listed above since it's just not necessary...  You'll most likely just leave out the top actuator screw as I will probably do since it's really not necessary to complete the project and make things work.  Job Done, and You're on the road again...but this time with the A/C completely working again blowng cold...and no Knock...Knock...Knock....!!!


Well, That's all for now...  I'll add some more pics of some of the other actuators later to round out this thread....

:o)

Tony K.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: Deuce on May 04, 2015, 12:49:11 PM
Thank you for the great write up and documentary! 

I guess the rest of us can expect these issues sooner or later.  But then again, I wonder what percentage of any year is affected so far?  (Only the Ford dealers would know and they probably aren't talking...).

If the actuators cycle with every start up, then it's apparent those cars with higher usage will fail first.  My 2008 is a daily driver with 142K miles and so far, all is quiet...

Thanks again,

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: NEFaurora on May 10, 2015, 09:25:41 PM
"My 2008 is a daily driver with 142K miles and so far, all is quiet..."

Wow...You're really.really lucky with that kind of mileage..

:o)


Tony K.

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: Sharee Moana on June 08, 2015, 08:54:24 PM
I have had this problem as well.  2007, V6, 128,600 miles.  This started little over a year ago.  Would only happen when using AC so it didn't bother me (like in the winter) as much as it does now that it happens every time I start my car.  I love my Mustang.  Learning more about fixing stuff on my car, thanks to YouTube, in my 30's since my dad has been sick however I haven't had a whole lot of luck with this.  Guy at the place I get my oil change wanted to diagnose for $80 to see which piece was clicking but wouldn't quote me on the cost of all of the pieces.  So that's a no-go.  Any help or advice is welcome!  So glad I'm not the only person that has this problem!
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: jjjefferson on August 08, 2015, 11:26:22 PM
Oh Joy!  I get to work on this very same motor on my 2007 Mustang GT with only 45,000 miles on it.  I tell ya...this is the crappiest Quality Control  vehicle I have ever owned!!!

I've had to have the convertible top replaced at 32K ...guess what...extended 7 year warranty DIDN"T cover that.  Yeah...the rear window seal went...but they only cover '05 and '06 on the TSB....I was screwed.
Had both lower control arms replaced at 25K
Had leaks in the trunk from day 1.  Multiple trips to the STealership where they just kept filling body panel joints with silicon goo.
The CD player no longer works and just clicks at you every damn time you open the door.  Kills the battery if you let it sit over winter (which this care has NEVER seen)
The AIR Bag's have been replaced on both driver and passenger after multiple trips to the STealership because the dash light just kept coming on.
The leather panels on the doors are now peeling off.

And now the drivers side HVAC door motor is going click click click.....  45,000 miles...all Mid-Atlantic highway driving...no snow...ever.  8 years old.  Anyone want to buy a "Cherry" Redfire Mustang GT V8 Convertible?   LOL.   

Thanks for the pics.  It looks like I only need to take off the Instrument panel cover and then the panel itself to get "some" access.  3 hours on my back sweating my b*lls off trying to get a socket up there....just ain't happening.  Tomorrow the battle resumes.

JJ

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on August 09, 2015, 08:30:33 AM
Oh Joy!  I get to work on this very same motor on my 2007 Mustang GT with only 45,000 miles on it.  I tell ya...this is the crappiest Quality Control  vehicle I have ever owned!!!

I've had to have the convertible top replaced at 32K ...guess what...extended 7 year warranty DIDN"T cover that.  Yeah...the rear window seal went...but they only cover '05 and '06 on the TSB....I was screwed.
Had both lower control arms replaced at 25K
Had leaks in the trunk from day 1.  Multiple trips to the STealership where they just kept filling body panel joints with silicon goo.
The CD player no longer works and just clicks at you every damn time you open the door.  Kills the battery if you let it sit over winter (which this care has NEVER seen)
The AIR Bag's have been replaced on both driver and passenger after multiple trips to the STealership because the dash light just kept coming on.
The leather panels on the doors are now peeling off.

And now the drivers side HVAC door motor is going click click click.....  45,000 miles...all Mid-Atlantic highway driving...no snow...ever.  8 years old.  Anyone want to buy a "Cherry" Redfire Mustang GT V8 Convertible?   LOL.   

Thanks for the pics.  It looks like I only need to take off the Instrument panel cover and then the panel itself to get "some" access.  3 hours on my back sweating my b*lls off trying to get a socket up there....just ain't happening.  Tomorrow the battle resumes.

JJ

As I have said before in this post, I would still suggest this job is NOT one for a "D0-It-Yourselfer" unless you are a very skilled person with access to service manuals/procedures/tools needed to do the job. (by the book)

Besides a dealership, that it looks as though you have a 0% faith in their skills based on your description of repeat visits over the same issues, THERE ARE QUALIFIED SHOPS with people (wherever you might live) who can do this job at a more than reasonable rate.

Try looking for shops specializing in AC Service and repairs. Auto Body shops often have the skills and tools needed to pull dashboards back enough to accomlish this job without having to cut things out of the way for access.

As a auto repair shop owner, I do these kinds of jobs several times a year. Every time I get one, I research the procedures beforehand because I need to know how to estimate the job. Usually, jobs like these do cost $400-$600.

When we buy a new car, we seem to be willing to pay $400-$600/month for the life of a loan to an impersonal  bank or institution (60 months or longer) but when we have to cough up a "month or two of payments" for a repair to a family man trying to put food on his table and also just pay his bills...we cry and howl at the moon.

Again, we are talking about a potential FUTURE CLASSIC CAR here...I have a 65 Mustang at the shop right now that has had such work done to it over the years...Is is CRAZY t think this "one job" will not matter if I do it this way. Small compromises add up over the years. My suggestion is to not start doing them in the first place.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: okicombo on August 18, 2015, 11:45:48 AM
I am an auto tech, not so much a Ford enthusiast, but I came across this thread and thought I should share.
I have had an 09 come back twice due to the clack noises. Originally we unplugged them one at a time to isolate and replaced the three culprits with Dorman brand actuators. On the first return trip, the following week,  I found two of the Dorman actuators making new noises so I replaced them with oe Ford actuators. All was well for a week then it came back again so I yanked the last Dorman out and put another oe Ford actuator in. Holly shit. What a Frickin joke. I've been doing this for over twenty years and don't remember seeing this kind of mess.
Anyway thats all I got. We shall see if it stays gone this time.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on August 18, 2015, 12:06:14 PM
... I found two of the Dorman actuators making new noises so I replaced them with oe Ford actuators. All was well for a week then it came back again so I yanked the last Dorman out and put another oe Ford actuator in.

Also being a tech and shop owner, I have to agree OE parts many times are a better way to go. (but not always). I try and weigh the savings over doing a job twice. Since any "savings" are passed on to the customer, while any DEFECT you assume full liability on...it really makes a difference in how I will quote a tough job like these can be.

Something else I have to wonder about and because I have used Dorman actuators before too (without any problems) I wonder if there is something binding the doors on these Mustangs that cause this problem. Case in point, I have seen GM vehicles that have a rubber wiper inside the air ducts on the air doors. The rubber gets brittle and breaks of, binding up the door. MAYBE something like this could be occurring on these Mustangs?
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: GT500KR on August 18, 2015, 12:50:50 PM
 I hate to see all you guys struggling with this. Some times shortcuts turn in to "long cuts". I've fallen into traps like that, and they are never fun.

 That being said, do yourself a favor, and PULL THE WHOLE DASH OUT!

 Sounds crazy, right? in the past,  (in the 70's, 80's, 90's) it was a nightmare. But modern cars are built in sub-assemblies to make the build easy at the plant. This makes it easier for us too. Only hitch is you don't have the "fixture" they use at the plant, so you'll need a helper to get it out. Just pull the cluster, knee bolster, some trim panels, (most have little or no hardware, just snap on and off), and about a dozen bolts. A couple of big wiring connectors too. Take 1 bolt out of the steering joint, and the whole column stays with the dash.

 I've done it. You will be amazed at how well that dash is assembled, and engineered. Follow the instructions on the PDF. With a helper you can be done in a couple hours, to an afternoon, depending on your skill level.

Hope this helps.

Charlie
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: Wide13 on October 30, 2015, 04:01:41 PM
I did this repair last week on my 09 GT and thought I would pass along some tips and reaffirm some that I got from this thread.

Lower the steering wheel.  I did not need to remove mine.
Pop the trim around the instrument panel out.  It just pulls straight out.
Undo the four screws holding the instrument panel in and lay the panel on the dash out of the way but still plugged in.
The actuator you are looking for is on the right side of the speedometer hole in the dash.  You can see the bottom screw and a red clip on the wiring.
Pull out the trim piece on the left of the radio.
Undo the two screws on the bottom of the lower dash piece and pop it out.  You have to kind of twist it to get the left edge out.
Pop out the light switch and undo the two plugs.  It will start pinging like you have left your lights on.  You can now get the lower dash piece out of the way.
Replug in the white light switch plug and the beeping will stop.
Get a short 5/16 wrench, preferably with a ratchet built into the closed end
Lay on your back and undo the bottom screw on the actuator from underneath the dash
Pull the actuator out breaking off and leaving the top screw still in.  It comes off pretty easily.  Make sure to pull it out and up.  Undo the plug on the actuator.

The hard part about this job is the top screw is literally behind the plastic pipe that goes to the left dash vent.  You can see it through the two holes where your instrument cluster is.  The only way I was able to get to this screw was to roll up a small towel (think bathroom hand towel size) and put it between the metal frame and the plastic pipe.  Then push the towel as far to the left as possible.  This will lift the pipe up an inch or so and you can get to the top screw from underneath the dash.  It won't be easy and you will have to contort you hand to get the wrench around it, but you can.  Once it's lose you can undo it with your fingers.

On the actuator next to the lower screw hole, there is a small cutout that looks like a + sign.  Where your actuator goes there is a small plastic tab sticking out that looks like a - sign.  The tab goes into the horizontal part of the + sign.  This lines the screw holes up and holds the actuator in place so you can put the screws back in.  Make sure the tab coming off of the arm of the actuator is inside the hole of the vent door assembly.  If they don't line up, move the vent door assembly to match the position of the actuator arm, not the other way around. 

Put in the bottom screw first (easy). 
Put in the top screw last (hard).  Once you have it in by hand, I was able to tighten it about halfway with my small wrench/ratchet but then the actuator body got in the way.  I just left it and have had no problems with it.  In retrospect, I think I could have used a small socket head and a flexible socket driver to finish it up, but I'm not taking it apart again for that. 


Plug the wiring harness into the actuator.

I think like the earlier guy said, the bottom screw and the tab holding it in are probably enough if you can't get the top screw out.  This part is very light and the arm doesn't move very far or with much force.

Tips:

The towel thing is key

To put the right trim panel back on, you will need to pop up the center console a little.  Just pull up on it and it pops up.

Put a shop light in the spedo hole in the dash to backlight while you are working underneath.

DO NOT PLUG IN AND RUN THE ACTUATOR UNTIL IT IS MOUNTED  it will spin all the way around and probably break something inside.
I did this, and then the Dorman cheap one made an immediate clicking sound worse than the first one did.  So I had to run to Ford and get an OEM one that works great. 

So I've basically done this twice from top to bottom.  First time with trial and error took me 3 hours.  Second time took me about 45 minutes. 

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: steven566 on January 25, 2016, 12:49:47 PM
Hello,

I'm new to this forum and I appreciate all of the great info here! 

I have a 2009 GT Convertible that has some sort of actuator door problem as described by the others above.  My issue is that it doesn't click anymore, and I didn't identify which actuator was the issue in time.

These are the symptoms:

1) The a/c system is working, but cold air is not making it out of the vents.  This is the main problem.
2) I can adjust the temperature from hot to cold, though cold isn't cold.  It seems as cold as the temperature would get without a/c to cool it down. I'm in Arizona, so even during the winter, the car gets pretty warm while sitting outside at work.
3) I can switch between the various positions with no issues (floor, vent, combined, etc.  I rarely use defrost, but I believe that is working, as well.)

Is this enough info for someone to identify which actuator is broken and what part number I should get?

Thanks for the help!

BTW, this is the only issue that I've had with my mustang besides the door panel covering issue and for some reason I keep losing tread on the back tires  ;D

Steve
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: steven566 on January 27, 2016, 03:03:14 PM
Another thing that may help is:

What used to happen is that the a/c would run (compressor on, lines cooling, etc.) but the air coming out of the vent was warm. Then, when I shut the car off and began to investigate the engine, and then turned the car back on, the a/c would then be blowing cold.

I'm thinking this must be due to the homing routine that the vent doors go through when the car is started. This procedure doesn't work anymore, which is probably why I don't hear the clicking noise anymore.

I'm still don't know which actuator controls the door to the a/c evaporator. Is it that the hot cold blend door is not making its full travel and staying biased toward the warm side, or is there a door just for the path that blows air part the evaporator. Or something else?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

2009 Mustang GT Premium Convertible (all stock)
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: Wide13 on February 09, 2016, 01:16:15 PM
It sounds like yours is the blend door which I believe is behind the passenger side kick panel.  You want the AC Heater Blend Door Actuator.  I think it is also much easier to get to than the Air Door Actuator that is behind the instrument panel.  Sounds like it has completely failed in the hot position.  You can get the part from LMR.com for about $30 or pay a little more at the dealer.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: steven566 on February 22, 2016, 10:52:28 AM
Thanks!  I haven't gotten to this yet.  I'm hoping to work on it this week.  Plus now another actuator has started to fail.  The clicking on this one sounds like its coming from right under the middle of the dash.  Hopefully I can identify these when I get inside the glove box.

Are the three actuators that are accessible through the glove box all the same part number?

Thanks,

Steve
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: steven566 on February 29, 2016, 12:28:01 AM
I took the glove box out and checked out the three actuators that I could get at.  They all are working, but the one that switches between defrost/floor/vent/ac was the one clicking.  I replaced it with a new actuator and no more clicking. 

When I too the actuator apart, I didn't see any broken teeth.  Also, I wasn't having an issue with switching to these various positions.

I took the car out for a drive and I still don't think the A/C is coming into the car.  The clutch works, and the A/C compressor is working.  The low pressure side is cold.  It seems like air is not being blown over the evaporator. 

Is there a door to the evaporator?  When I turn the thermostat knob hot and cold I can feel there air get hot and cold, it just never gets colder than the ambient temperature.  And if the car has been sitting outside all day, it never gets cold at all, just warm and hot.

What does the actuator on the driver's side do?  Could this have something to do with the A/C setting not working?

Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rgiles2 on June 14, 2016, 04:19:04 PM
Got the bad actuator replaced. However...the little red locking clip on the wire plug took off into the dash. Can't seems to shake it or blow it loose. N/A from Ford. Anyone have any idea as to where I might find one?? (other than in MY dash)

TAI
Bob
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: GT500KR on June 18, 2016, 01:00:53 AM
I have a few late model harnesses, definitely have one.  But it will be a few weeks before I'm home to look. You might try a salvage yard, but most want to sell complete harnesses.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: rgiles2 on July 09, 2016, 08:33:23 PM
So...I replaced the bad actuator with an O'Reilly part. Worked for 3 days...same thing. Took it back and got another one. Lasted 10 days....same thing. Clicks  (recycles) for about 4-5 times then stops. Would an OE be any better?  Is there another part/module that regulate them all. Seems to just try to cycle through and reset or something...
What am I missing..??
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: jjjefferson on September 07, 2016, 06:32:36 PM
Well lets see....the Ford OEM replacement part lasted 13 months....or....3,800 miles.   

Looks like this may become an annual ritual.   >:(

Now just waiting on the 3rd Tecata Airbag for the Passenger side..... on the bright side...the Kenwood Stereo with Navigation that I replace the Shaker500 with is doing just fine.

J
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: 67gtasanjose on September 07, 2016, 06:55:36 PM
Well lets see....the Ford OEM replacement part lasted 13 months....or....3,800 miles.   

Looks like this may become an annual ritual.   >:(

Now just waiting on the 3rd Tecata Airbag for the Passenger side..... on the bright side...the Kenwood Stereo with Navigation that I replace the Shaker500 with is doing just fine.

J

my '05 still has ALL it's original actuators & airbags. 30K on the odometer while sleeping in a garage most of the time helps, I am sure. I figure once the airbags quit being recalled, I'll get them done too but I'm not a big fan of the butchers over at my local Ford dealership...For a very minor "hummm" vibration at about 1900 RPM's, they ripped off 2 exhaust hangers from off the trans cross member. This happened the last time I took in in back in '08. (what jack-arses, using a pry-bar, they literally tore them off) I imagine I'll brave the dealership again one day.
Title: Re: 2005-2009 Blend Door Actuator "Clicking Noise" A/C Heater Problem.
Post by: jacobhanson1010 on January 13, 2017, 12:36:25 AM
I found this thread pretty helpful, but I just had to remove this actuator on my 2007 V6. I found that, despite that top screw being EXTREMELY difficult to get to, it's possible without breaking any plastic or cutting anything. You are going to need some interesting combination of tools, and a buddy to help. That is if you're going to do it like me and my dad did.

1. Firstly, I removed the dash trim covering the instrument cluster like stated before in this thread (it just pops out with clips), and unscrewed and removed the instrument cluster (which comes out with 4 screws). From here, you can look inside and see the problem actuator to the right. The top screw, the one that is difficult to remove, is up and behind the large round air duct that connects to the left-most vent.

2. What you're gonna do want to do is, prop up that big air duct. Using rags, shims, or a combination of the two you want to prop it up against the metal frame bar that is right under it. Doing this will let us squeeze a socket onto the head of the top-most screw. If you don't prop up the duct, it will literally be touching against the head of the screw, and you'll never be able to get any tools up there. Trust me. Don't worry about breaking the air duct, we jammed it pretty hard up and didn't break ours. It apparently can take some tough force. So whatever you need to do to make room for tools against the screw head, you're pretty much ok to do.

http://i.imgur.com/mJ60VCt.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/mJ60VCt.jpg)

3. Go ahead and crawl under the dash, on your back, look up, and using your right-hand and a 5/16ths socket and a ratchet, unscrew that bottom screw of the actuator. This is the easy one. Also, if you haven't already, disconnect that wiring harness from the actuator. To do this, grab the small red clip pull backwards, opposite of the actuator, towards the direction of the wires, and then unplug the connector.

4. For removing this top screw. We used an funny combo of tools. What we did was, attach the 5/16ths socket to a bendy extension, then to a screw driver. Doing this allowed us to connect the socket to the head of the screw, and not have to worry about having room for a regular ratchet up inside the dash.

http://i.imgur.com/j1GJ0n5.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/j1GJ0n5.jpg)

5. Now, for us to get this to work, I laid on my back with my feet hanging out of the car and my dad sat on the drivers seat at the wheel. What I did was, reached up behind the dash to the head of the screw, oriented our tool onto the head, and held it in place and applied downward force to make sure the socket stayed on the head. This was no easy task, and often the socket slipped off the head and we had to start over. As I held the socket in place over the head of the screw, my dad had the screw driver end of our tool sticking out towards the steering wheel, and he loosened the screw out.

http://i.imgur.com/pCgueul.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/pCgueul.jpg)

6. Once we got the screw out, we replaced the actuator and just reversed out process. I screwed the screw back into place by hand enough so it wouldn't fall down onto my face. Then I guided our tool back onto the head and my dad tightened the screw. Make sure the screw is actually going through the actuator into the mounting hole. Because I couldn't see the screw or the hole from where I was on my back, we ended up screwing the screw just into the hole without slotting it through the actuator, so we had to back it out again and put it back in AGAIN.

Your biggest enemy is the air duct. It's in the way of getting any long tools in parallel to it. Propping it up gives us just enough room to get tools onto the head of the screw, but this is only way we got it to work. I was down on my back while my dad unscrewed the screw because I had to actively press the socket tool onto the head of the screw and press up against the duct even more to ensure the socket stayed on the screw. It was pretty exhausting heheh. But holy frijoles it was satisfying once we got it all in the right way.