ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1971 - 1973 => Topic started by: mac1971 on December 08, 2015, 09:12:44 PM
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It has been a while since I posted on the car, it is now in the restoration shop after weeks of my disassembling, cataloguing parts and too many hours stripping very old paint... The attached picture shows the NOS DZ3 taillight panel installed on the car after the damage to the passenger side rear trunk pan was first completed. The new panel was required as the old one had been spliced (damaged part of existing tail light panel was removed and a new piece tacked in and bonded over... when the car had previous work completed many years ago.
Fortunately, when the car was on the frame/pulling machine, there was no damage to the unibody caused by the rear hit at the bumper mounting location. All measurements were confirmed as per the factory specs. The pan in this area was straightened out and the bracket then re-welded into the pan/frame area just in front of the tail light panel. The impact had pushed the bracket and trunk pan about 3" forward but caused no permanent damage. Additionally, the trunk pan area around the shock supports (both sides) were corrected by welding in new metal where the long term use of incorrectly installed air shocks had caused damage.
My goal with all of this work was to salvage the existing trunk pan and I was able to do so though the excellent work of my restoration shop here in West Lincoln, Ontario, Canada. If there are any members in the Ontario area frequenting this board; the shop is Randy Colyn Restorations, look him up; nice guy and he and his team take pride in their work. He has three Mustangs in the shop at the moment.
The replacement NOS D3Z taillight panel first required some work in order to be correct for a '71 installation. The attached picture shows a new welded in piece taken from my old panel at the area where the wire for the license plate light comes through the panel to the outside bumper area. Also, this area is indented on the '71 panel, but was flat on the new panel, so it had to be re-worked. It will look good once done.
The front battery apron was being replaced today with an NOS piece as well (due to previous battery acid damage...). Additionally, I had my shop fabricate a new battery support bracket (actually seen from the under passenger side fender area) to mimic exactly the original one that was on the car. As those in the know are already aware, these brackets are not being re-produced (that I am aware of) and I have seen many '71-3 cars where the battery apron is replaced, but the original exterior bracket is missing. Yes, the replacement battery aprons will more then likely hold the battery, but it is not original and as this battery is a Group 27 version, the extra support is welcomed.
I will post a picture of the new bracket install, the next time I am at the shop.
** I just added a picture of the underside of the passenger front fender. You can see the accumulated surface rust and also the factory applied undercoating in two areas where the plastic splash shield rub against the fender when installed. It looks as though someone on the assembly line used a paint brush and stroked the fender in these two area with undercoating.
I will be taking a number of parts for chemical dipping this week to remove mostly surface rust from a car that although spent most of its life in Arizona, all exposed non treated ( no rust proofing or paint of any kind) metal still built up some surface rust over the years due to normal oxidization, etc. This includes the doors, fenders, trunk lid, valances and all other steel parts that can benefit from this process. The hood will not be done, as there is no way of restoring the caulking between the top and bottom panels of the hood after the chemical stripping process will have removed the original material. We will do what we can on this the old fashioned way.
Its good to see the car making progress... I think I have accomplished a lot since September of this year when I first started the disassembly. Cheers
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Watching and enjoying :)
How different from the 69-70 battery reinforcements from the 71?
Never compared the two yet - haven't needed to I should say
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Watching and enjoying :)
+1 Nice progress report :D
It would be a good bonus to see pictures of the before/after repairs of the trunk floor around the shock absorber damage. I remember how terrible it was and how the recommendations went to repair it if at all possible. It sounds like you were very pleased with their work.
Richard
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Thank you for the update and keep them coming. Great to see progress.
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........... Also, the new battery apron support bracket installed on the underside of the car - fabricated from scratch based on my old unit. They did a fantastic job on this piece! Cheers.
Thanks - not even close
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All I can say is wow... great way to deflate months of hard work, dedication to the pursuit of a proper restoration of a car that was headed to the parts bin, etc.
I wont get into this with you,................
Me too -
Wow didn't see that coming and boy did my post get taken the wrong way.
I was referring to my previous post were I asked if the 69-70 brace was anything like the 71.
"How different from the 69-70 battery reinforcements from the 71?
Never compared the two yet - haven't needed to I should say"
After seeing your picture my comment was - "not even close" as it's apparent comparing the two.
Sorry you even thought I would respond in such a short, uncaring and unkind manner to a member, owner and/or restorer
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To avoid any further confusion I will just say this is my original bracket received from West Coast Cougar to replace my missing original from a long ago partial restoration. MAC1971 keep up the work and keep us posted. This is a great community that never intends to offend a member. Sometimes messages can get crossed or unintended interpretation. In my impression Jeff has been a great administrator, moderator, and champion for restoration process.
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I have small fab shop made some forming tools to reproduced this battery tray support bracket... there is no one else know to me that makes a bracket that is close to correct. there is considerable amount of time to make them correct with the correct nuts , flange and support impressions, I will post a couple of pictures of the first protypes,,,,, there 125.00 each,,,
Bob Wilson, 1 651 485 9832
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Nice looking reproduction!
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Welcome back
Yes any of these projects can get overwhelming - highs and lows at every turn. Most of the time it feels like one step forward and two or three backwards but you can win.
If it was easy everyone would be doing it ;)
Looking good - BTW did you ever post or list (I forget) what the factory color was?
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Ok... After a cooling off period, I came back today to read Jeff's explanation ...
I was very happy to see you had responded again! I truly wished to follow updates on your project. Odd thing is I didn't see this reply till after I woke up this morning (4am), yet while tending a fire at about 1am, the situation crossed my mind and I wondered if you would ever come back to this forum (tele-pathetic, maybe ??? )
Anyways, I seem to recall your car was a light blue of sorts, I assume you are going back to that color, correct? What is the Ford-given name for that color on 71 Mustangs?
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Your project is moving along very nicely.
I have to say one of the most interesting aspects of your example is the combination of "powder blue" (Pastel Blue) with a CJ 429. I can see a whole lot of 340 Dusters getting "dusted" by this sleeper and as many RS & SS Camaro's getting blown away too by this car! I've always been a huge fan of "sleepers"!
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Work is progressing... the rear of the car has come together nicely after the necessary repairs due to a hit in the trunk pan and lower passenger side trunk lid area (minor) and the replacement of the tail light panel (with an NOS piece) both, from a previous accident... ... Suspension is almost ready to go on, car needs to be rolling soon for proper finishing... Cheers.
At the risk of you getting upset with me like you did with Jeff S. I would like to mention in a intended helpful way that most professional restoration shops put car on a rolling cart made to use the factory jig mounts instead of rolling on restored suspension parts. That procedure of installing suspension before paint is logically backwards and gives less then desirable results. The cart makes the car easy (mostly easier because of swivel wheel/casters ) to move as well as keeping the detail work on fresh suspension from paint overspray dust etc.. No matter how hard you try taping off the suspension you will not get as good of a result as adding the suspension after the car is painted just like the factory did. I just hate to see all of your effort get compromised by a misstep and felt compelled to post. Regardless of how you do it the best of luck with your project.
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Pastell blue..... ;) Cool
My car should also be Pastell Blue....70 Conv 428CJ.
AFAIK, only 2 71 429 CJ/SCJ convertibles in Scandinavia. One Red/ one White (Could easily be Pastell blue, but not sure)
Post more pics please.
Thanks
JohnB
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Thank you for the update. Making very good progress.
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First paint, finally... A rare colour being applied today on this year and body style. More factory "N" Codes (paint) out there, but some have chosen to apply other colours. Thoughts? Cheers.
<3 love it! Rare colors are cool! Looking authentic on a car, even better! As I mentioned before, though this is kinda a "girlie color", that 429 CJ powerplant removes any thoughts of "weakness" 8)
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This is where the heart starts racing. That is definitely going to be a unique combination. Soothing exterior color belying the monster breathing under the hood. It will be cool to see in full body color.
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Just curious. Do you know why they masked of the body to paint out the areas they have? As you can tell I am not a body man, but I try to learn every time I can.
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Just curious. Do you know why they masked of the body to paint out the areas they have? As you can tell I am not a body man, but I try to learn every time I can.
Likely a control thing :( Painters like to do a section at a time. Sometimes this leads to more work or "unnatural" outcomes but IMHO painters often have difficulties accepting new practices but like to stay in their comfort zone. Or it might just be the fumes ------------- Just kidding ::)
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Thank you.
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Likely a control thing :( Painters like to do a section at a time. Sometimes this leads to more work or "unnatural" outcomes but IMHO painters often have difficulties accepting new practices but like to stay in their comfort zone. Or it might just be the fumes ------------- Just kidding ::)
Control is important when it comes to paint. Most restoration shop painters try to replicate factory procedures. As you know the fenders, hood , front valance, headlight buckets etc. were painted separately. The undercarriage and engine bay were painted separately. Painting the inside of the trunk and interior sheet metal prior to the exterior is necessary to replicate factory overspray patterns unless you have two painters and a oven as Ford Assembly plants. Yes, often it takes extra time and expertise to do whatever it takes to replicate factory paint. Not sure what you mean by Painters having difficulties accepting new practices? I was not aware practices of painting a Mustang have changed? Maybe you are referencing new paints and application methods? It's My opinion that you need to experience the "fumes" to fully understand paint and Body.
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Wow. Don't know how I missed this thread ("fumes" maybe?). I really enjoy progress pics and text of a restoration done right. The pastel blue will look great. What color top and guts?
BTW, Back in the late '70s I was brokering cars. A pastel blue ('73 if I recall), with charcoal graphics, Mach1 came in. Loaded, but powered by a 302, 2bbl., so not exactly fast. It was a very good looking car. Got a lot of looks.
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Control is important when it comes to paint. Most restoration shop painters try to replicate factory procedures. As you know the fenders, hood , front valance, headlight buckets etc. were painted separately. .................
Think that maybe were the difference stems from. Allot of owners here and in general don't have their cars painted by "restoration shops" either by choose or as a result of their budget. Sure we can agree that not all "restorations shops" are equal in their abilities, knowledge or facilities. Also for many of these places, they don't paint "Mustangs or Shelbys" - they paint cars. Trying to help educate, help and direct in those situations - either directly or through the owner is often a task and the basis for most of my comments.
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I agree Jeff's post completely. In a different thread, I describe my 'experience' with painters who do not understand the difference between restorations and resto-mods. I will be seeking a real restoration shop for the 3rd paint.
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Back to business... threw in another shot of the inside trunk lid that has been painted and clear coated but not yet sanded. trying to get the colour across to people if I can.
"Smokey" to answer your question, the car will have a white interior with white top (as per factory). Cheers.
That will be sharp! As for any criticism from anyone: To quote a Ricky Nelson line, "You know you can't please everyone, so you've got to please yourself".
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That Heinz ketchup song comes to mind. ANTICIPATION......... I found a 73 Pastel Blue convertible (H-code) for sale in a barn last week. Pretty rough shape. Owner said he bought it out of New Orleans after Katrina for the motor and transmission. The car would have needed a lot work. To much for me right now. He did have a nice 73 Cougar convertible that was running and driving. Triple white car. Almost tempted on that one for $3K. It was a solid car just needed a trunk floor.
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Very nice. Looks like you may have it back at home pretty soon to get your hands working on it. That did have the flat applique panel on the back between the taillights correct? Here is a factory image of the blackout applied to the inner sides of the taillights and around the gas filler hole so it would blend with the trim panel. OK could not find the image out of the factory manual on this computer. This is how I did it on my car.
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put it on a trailer and bring it on to the show to put in display class as a work in progress. you'd be surprised how much attention it will receive.
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not onerous at all. display entry fee is only $20 and for that class you do not need to be a member. http://www.wnymustangclub.com/WNYSMCCS2016.htm
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That is a lot of paint
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Looks good. Thank you for the photo updates. I would have imagined it not having the black out on the hood. Saying that out of not knowing just more accustom to seeing Pastel Blue convertibles with the non NACA hood. It will be great to see the hood done. Man two weeks being this close can be a killer. Pass the time with cleaning other parts.
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SVO... take a look at the first picture on this thread showing the underside of the fenders originally. I had two options, return it to that scenario or upgrade to protect the bare metal. I can live with this decision moving forward. Thanks
Brian, I agree that many of the Pastel Blue cars in the day were pretty plain jane... In fact the ram air hood on this convertible is the rarest of the few options that were ordered on the car. Most '71 convertibles in general did not come with the ram air hood. K. Marti's book gives the percentages, cant recall right now but it is pretty low. For whatever reason, the purchaser did check off the ram air option which as you know included the black out hood and chrome hood locks. However, they did not address any of the other paint options that would have provided for further paint addition to the car. It is a unique paint choice overall, for sure. Thanks.
If total protection is the goal along with the factory look ,I would consider top coating the bare metal areas that could possibly be seen with stainless steel paint (many types) and then over spray with the pastel as factory.
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Never said this to a guy before, but "nice rearend".
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Looks great! Keep sharing updates.
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At the risk of you getting upset with me like you did with Jeff S. I would like to mention in a intended helpful way that most professional restoration shops put car on a rolling cart made to use the factory jig mounts instead of rolling on restored suspension parts. That procedure of installing suspension before paint is logically backwards and gives less then desirable results. The cart makes the car easy (mostly easier because of swivel wheel/casters ) to move as well as keeping the detail work on fresh suspension from paint overspray dust etc.. No matter how hard you try taping off the suspension you will not get as good of a result as adding the suspension after the car is painted just like the factory did. I just hate to see all of your effort get compromised by a misstep and felt compelled to post. Regardless of how you do it the best of luck with your project.
Bob a question for you, as you say the factory way was to do the body paint before suspension install etc. Thats all well and good fine on a production line when a car takes a short time to be assembled, but like most of us we dont have a week to assemble the car and the longer it sits around the more chance the paint work can get scratched or damaged no matter how careful you are. So my question is not a bit of overspray not better than a damaged panel or edge ?? I am just asking because I think most of us have the same challenges even if in a restoration shop these cars are standing around and the later you can put them in final paint the less chance of damage..! thoughts???
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Bob a question for you, as you say the factory way was to do the body paint before suspension install etc. Thats all well and good fine on a production line when a car takes a short time to be assembled, but like most of us we dont have a week to assemble the car and the longer it sits around the more chance the paint work can get scratched or damaged no matter how careful you are. So my question is not a bit of overspray not better than a damaged panel or edge ?? I am just asking because I think most of us have the same challenges even if in a restoration shop these cars are standing around and the later you can put them in final paint the less chance of damage..! thoughts???
My thoughts are you will not get as good finished results if you do it that way. My thoughts are that It depends on your expectations. If it is going to be basically a driver car and you are making many other cosmetic short cuts then your expectations are not as high and a little overspray will not bother you. People wanting show quality results will be disappointed with the masking off approach compared to the other way. My thoughts are with suspension and attaching parts prepped before the car is painted, if you can't get the car rolling in a afternoon then you only have the guy in the mirror to blame not other people who can. My thoughts are if you don't want to do it the concours way then don't ,it is your car. Just don't make excuses "So my question is not a bit of overspray not better than a damaged panel or edge ??" when others in similar circumstances can make things happen without the apparent insurmountable issues . My thoughts ,others may have different.
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My eye's must be getting bad, but I can't see the apparent and unwanted overspray on my car... There will be some as I will try to emulate the overspray that might have occurred from the painters on the line at the factory.
I am perplexed though, that if a car is not finished in a certain manner (concourse?), it automatically becomes a "driver" in some people's minds ???
I do intend to drive mine, not a lot, but it will be driven, so yes mine will be a driver and would have been had I painted it as some have suggested is the "correct" way.
And, no excuses here, ever. Cheers.
Before you get too indignant consider how difficult it is to define a level of correctness for assemblyline build techniques as it applies to these cars to someone that is relatively new to the concepts. Concours correct typically means assemblyline production procedures for the most part . Driver car typically applies to cars where short cuts for efficiency or economy have been the goal. There is nothing wrong with ether category. Using the term driver may be demeaning in your eyes but to others it is simply a way of describing a certain category of build criteria for a car. There are many who build their car to concours show standard and then drive them. It is just like driving off the show room floor and the car degrades as it would naturally . That car is a driver but in the extreme upper category that most would consider a "show car". You can see how it is multi faceted description . There is information on how the cars are built and it is up to the individual to decide what is best for him or her. Like from your description you are choosing to do on the overspray patterns underneath your car in other then the way it came from the factory . Some have offered suggestions on ways to do things so metal is protected and yet retain the assemblyline look. Meant in a positive helpful way. When members offer their opinions the help it is typically perceived in a positive way. Personalizing a car is your right as a owner but it is a little unreasonable IMO to get distressed when others on this forum don't agree with your choices. Most on this site (be the way called 'CONCOURS" Mustang Forum for a reason) are interested on the details and procedures of how the cars were produced new from the different assemblyline plants and shared techniques on how to replicate them. You don't have to do it that way and can pick and choose how you want to do your car but don't be surprised or dismayed that when faced with someone turning from the assemblyline path others try to nudge you back. It is meant in a friendly way. Original build is the focus of this forum thus the name. There are many here that give of their spare time and knowledge to share with others. I don't think anyone is saying "you have to do it this way or else ". Take the information in the general good spirit it is intended and do with it as you will.
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Bob, Ntd your comments I think we are all trying to do the best we can given our circumstances thats why we are here learning but how does one practically do this you have not actually said ? I would be very interested to hear how one paints a complete car and then packs its all up (fenders, hood, valance etc) to only assemble it down the road and at the same time not damage the the rear quarters etc etc over a say 2 year period of standing.
In my thought process it makes sense to paint the outside of the car last because if you scratch it its going to need repainting and subsequent overspray anyway ? I am questioning to learn not to start a argument but it does not make sense even if you are building the best of the best in the best of the best shop its not a 1 week process to assemble a mustang as you know. So how do you guys do it pls teach me as I am sure you are doing and have ways we can all learn from
Thks
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Bob, Ntd your comments I think we are all trying to do the best we can given our circumstances thats why we are here learning but how does one practically do this you have not actually said ? I would be very interested to hear how one paints a complete car and then packs its all up (fenders, hood, valance etc) to only assemble it down the road and at the same time not damage the the rear quarters etc etc over a say 2 year period of standing.
In my thought process it makes sense to paint the outside of the car last because if you scratch it its going to need repainting and subsequent overspray anyway ? I am questioning to learn not to start a argument but it does not make sense even if you are building the best of the best in the best of the best shop its not a 1 week process to assemble a mustang as you know. So how do you guys do it pls teach me as I am sure you are doing and have ways we can all learn from
Thks
I am lead to the conclusion that in your tunnelvision of "can't do" you didn't absorb what was said in my post #15 otherwise you would not have asked the question. " most professional restoration shops put completely disassembled car on a rolling cart made to use the factory jig mounts instead of rolling on restored suspension parts." . If made with the jig points you can hang all of the fenders hood etc right on the car after they are done. Fitted and on the car is the best way to trans port items home and also to confirm proper fit by the body before paying the body shop for their work etc . finding that something doesn't fit properly maybe 2 years later even 2 months as you said is a recipe for disaster. If the shop is not going to assemble the suspension enough to get it rolling off off the cart then ether the owner does it before leaving , borrow the cart and put the prepared suspension on in a afternoon and return the cart . A dedicated cart is what I have for that purpose so I can do things at my leisure. Having it on the cart with caster wheels makes it more easily movable then when on tires. Instead of a cart you can have a donor set of suspension to temporarily fit to the car during the sand blasting,body prep ,priming ,and finish paint coats. To think finished prepared parts are not going to get compromised in some way to not look fresh brand new during all of that is unreasonable. You substitute the prepared finished suspension for the temporary suspension at your leisure . There are of course many variations but these are some basics. FYI this can be done with out scratching quarter panels etc. Many people including myself have done it. Doing the the paint LAST on a fully assembled car with engine ,wiring fuel lines etc. is not going to get you close to the assemblyline correct look but it is your choice. It has been said on this thread and others before that it is about choices. Your choices. The information on this forum is given freely to be helpful and make the job easier to achieve . If you can't do it one of those ways then don't be upset when you can't get the best results . Also don't be upset and indignant with those who can.
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Not going to get into any whizzing contest here, but what Bob has described is the best way. I do, mainly, resto-mods (on non-numbers cars) and have done race cars. We usually do the entire underside in either gloss or satin black. We use stainless brake and fuel lines and braided steel brake hoses. Using a cart makes it so the painted, or more often powder coated, suspension parts are not victims of any over spray. The entire assembly process goes much smoother. And, you can pay much more attention to detail. A cart, as Bob described, would be a good investment as well as a time-saver.
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................ I would be very interested to hear how one paints a complete car and then packs its all up (fenders, hood, valance etc) to only assemble it down the road and at the same time not damage the the rear quarters etc etc over a say 2 year period of standing. ....
Not sure how everyone does it and it seems to depend as much on the individual, their situation and their drive just to get it done. Rushing an assembly (at least for me) tends to produce the "oops moments" than than storing does. I know one friend that stored his fenders and hood in a spare bedroom for four years after they were painted. Sleep cozy next to them a few times in the bedroom. With some builders it's a space thing since cars can easily take 3-4 times their size when apart
Others it's about where you choose to store them. Some will rent space from others - or borrow some from mom's garage.
Guess its about just finding a way, some times spending a little more on furniture pads or something that makes it work out for the owner. Its not suppose to be easy - and most of us find it such - unless you have a full shop and your on your 20th car of the same type or model
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" most professional restoration shops put completely disassembled car on a rolling cart made to use the factory jig mounts instead of rolling on restored suspension parts." .
Cart? Cart? Oh, one of these. This was used to move a 66 Shelby around in it's owner's garage while there was no suspension (wheels either), transport the body to the painter and then for the painter in his shop. It was passed on to me for future use. It needed some rust removal and prevention so I sprayed Evaporust on sections over a week and painted the processed sections until I was done. The four chassis mounting points are removable bars that have a sliding PVC section used to replicate the factory "ring" left when the under carriage is painted. This one only works on 64-66 Mustangs, I got measurements for a 67 chassis undercarriage (thanks to someone on the forum) and it could be easily modified to fit other years (but I won't).
Jim
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I am lead to the conclusion that in your tunnelvision of "can't do" you didn't absorb what was said in my post #15 otherwise you would not have asked the question. " most professional restoration shops put completely disassembled car on a rolling cart made to use the factory jig mounts instead of rolling on restored suspension parts." . If made with the jig points you can hang all of the fenders hood etc right on the car after they are done. Fitted and on the car is the best way to trans port items home and also to confirm proper fit by the body before paying the body shop for their work etc . finding that something doesn't fit properly maybe 2 years later even 2 months as you said is a recipe for disaster. If the shop is not going to assemble the suspension enough to get it rolling off off the cart then ether the owner does it before leaving , borrow the cart and put the prepared suspension on in a afternoon and return the cart . A dedicated cart is what I have for that purpose so I can do things at my leisure. Having it on the cart with caster wheels makes it more easily movable then when on tires. Instead of a cart you can have a donor set of suspension to temporarily fit to the car during the sand blasting,body prep ,priming ,and finish paint coats. To think finished prepared parts are not going to get compromised in some way to not look fresh brand new during all of that is unreasonable. You substitute the prepared finished suspension for the temporary suspension at your leisure . There are of course many variations but these are some basics. FYI this can be done with out scratching quarter panels etc. Many people including myself have done it. Doing the the paint LAST on a fully assembled car with engine ,wiring fuel lines etc. is not going to get you close to the assemblyline correct look but it is your choice. It has been said on this thread and others before that it is about choices. Your choices. The information on this forum is given freely to be helpful and make the job easier to achieve . If you can't do it one of those ways then don't be upset when you can't get the best results . Also don't be upset and indignant with those who can.
Hi Bob, thanks for the detailed reply, I did read your previous post #18 (i think you are ref to not #15?), like I said I am just trying to learn. So if I have upset you in any way as it seems I may have... Its not my intention at all and if I have I do sincerely apologise ! I would say in my defence that I probably suffer from "overwhelm-a-vision" vs that "tunnel vision" you mentioned and I dont believe for 1 minute I am suffering from "cant do" either its more of a case of how to do ?
Pls do understand that newbies like me dont fully know lots of things and connecting the dots sometimes is a challenge and requires maybe sometimes stupid questions or obvious questions to experts like you and I really do mean that you and Jeff are truly experts and VERY giving of your time which I think we are all very great full for !!! :) :)
So thank you for explaining and elaborating on your post #18 above I did read it for sure and was the basis for my questioning. Your current response however makes a lot of sense to me now together with Jeffs follow up comment on the storage. What you have done is open my eyes and now I understand... and my car will be grateful for it as I was honestly going paint the undercarriage, engine bay, interior, assemble drive train into a rolling chassis and then paint exterior. With what i have learnt the plan will now change and I will indeed follow your advise on a cart. So thank you sir !
Rgds
Brennan
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Hi Bob, thanks for the detailed reply, I did read your previous post #18 (i think you are ref to not #15?), like I said I am just trying to learn. So if I have upset you in any way as it seems I may have... Its not my intention at all and if I have I do sincerely apologise ! I would say in my defence that I probably suffer from "overwhelm-a-vision" vs that "tunnel vision" you mentioned and I dont believe for 1 minute I am suffering from "cant do" either its more of a case of how to do ?
Pls do understand that newbies like me dont fully know lots of things and connecting the dots sometimes is a challenge and requires maybe sometimes stupid questions or obvious questions to experts like you and I really do mean that you and Jeff are truly experts and VERY giving of your time which I think we are all very great full for !!! :) :)
So thank you for explaining and elaborating on your post #18 above I did read it for sure and was the basis for my questioning. Your current response however makes a lot of sense to me now together with Jeffs follow up comment on the storage. What you have done is open my eyes and now I understand... and my car will be grateful for it as I was honestly going paint the undercarriage, engine bay, interior, assemble drive train into a rolling chassis and then paint exterior. With what i have learnt the plan will now change and I will indeed follow your advise on a cart. So thank you sir !
Rgds
Brennan
Brennan , thank you for the kind words. I am guilty of being a little frustrated not upset because I want you to see what I see and understand what I understand so you can by pass mistakes I made in younger years. It is hard for people to have a point of reference if they have never seen a correctly done finished product . It is hard to explain a reference point in words sometimes. Glad we got the point across in the friendly way the it was intended.
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Looking good! I'm happy for you. I agree. The only one you need to please is the one who owns the car and is spending the $$$$.
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I am very hesitant to post any new updates here...
...the old adage, "if you don't have anything nice to say, don't..."
I understand your hesitation to the extent of understanding that it is your project, to the extent that personal decisions must be based upon one's own circumstances such as environment the car will be stored or used in after restoration and available resources for original-style materials etc. I have also felt the "rub" of a few suggestions along the way for my project, though most of those "rubs" were back a few years ago now.
What I resolved to share or ask for help now seems to follow the primary focus this forum was intended for..."Concours" in nature, as the name of the forum suggests. The overtone of most comments that used to seem to "ruffle my feathers", was really an attempt (by those comments) to steer "Other Readers" away from anything that might be duplicated by another future restorer and perhaps on a show field, claimed as authentic because they read it over here. More often than not, the comments I have seen within this particular thread (without trying to go back & read everything over again) have looked to me standing on the sidelines, as just that.
Simply put, other people follow the lead of articles and photographs seen on the internet as a basis of doing their car too. It's all well and good when it is exactly as it was delivered when the example they are working on matches up, but far to often, it has caused other restorers to make serious mistakes in restoring their car to what they believed to be Concours, when indeed it was not.
As I said before within this thread, I really like seeing pictures of YOUR project, even the areas that are not "As delivered" (Concours)...IMHO, I agree with your decision to stick to your basic internal instincs of procedures and should you have any future regrets on those decisions to do or not to do any of the suggestions made by other members of this forum, it cannot be anyone else's fault. (should result in less hard feelings).
LOOKING GOOD MAN!
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Glad you have her home and can take your time getting things the way you want it. It took me about 2 years from the time mine came back from the bodywork up to the day she was loaded on the hauler for Charlotte in 2014. Keep us posted on your progress as you move along. It is looking great thus far.
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My opinion under concourse is that you would get dinged. Possibly 1 point if you cleaned it up very well and reproduced the markings accurately. It is something that can be reinstalled until you can come across another correct one to utilize. I have included a couple of photos for reference. First is a 71 Boss that once passed through Perkins collection. The second is of my wiper motor. I believe it to be original to my 72' production date 01/71 car that closely matched date stamp on housing.
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.................. Just curious, how would this be addressed under MCA concourse driven rules? Do I leave it, or replace it? Cheers.
If its only the date code or ink stamp you can remove (paint over) or leave it. In MCA Concours (Trailer or Driven) paint marks and date codes are not included in the judging but most owners would make the detail go away just in case, so that others don't take notice of it or will replace it with a matching (for application and year) engineering and date numbers
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I guess the other question is, Why do you get your soap from France???? ;D
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.............. As the car will not be on the road for the foreseeable future, gives me lots of time to search out another correct '71 date coded unit.......................................
I can help shorten that wait ;)
Here is a picture that someone else posted a few years back as an example. Might have others but this basically covers the bases for what was there and the dating pattern during this time
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/5/6-150616153550.jpeg)
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(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w115/CougarCJ/th_wiper1.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/CougarCJ/media/wiper1.jpg.html)
example showing that the stamps weren't always oriented right side up. Different color ink than above too.
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Looks good. As always thank you for the update. Good to see it is not snowing yet north of the border. :)
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bobboss351 does awesome job on his reproduction parts. Was very fortunate to get one of the heat shields for my J code Drag Pack car. 71 429 convertible, rare and interesting car
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Ashley,
Any chance I can find pics of your car anywhere?