ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: Matt1968 on February 19, 2017, 08:00:59 PM
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I'm looking for a coating or sealant for metal parts that goes on clear to keep the original, natural appearance of the part. Was has worked for you?
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I'm looking for a coating or sealant for metal parts that goes on clear to keep the original, natural appearance of the part. Was has worked for you?
T9 Boeshield. There are other similar products. It is oil based . It drys when put on light and waxy when heavy. It does need to be maintained depending on environment and usage. In protected garage type environment it could last years . Exposed to humidity and drastic temperature changes that might change to 2 months . It varies. During show season I would suggest using it before each show. I first used it on some real magnesium wheels I had on my Cobra. After polishing they would start to oxidize in one day. I tried everything . Clear coat ,WD40 etc. You name it I tried it. The best I found would help them last about 3 months before oxidizing. A friend told me to try the T9 and I wiped it on my wheels after polishing and they lasted a year before needing re polishing . They would have lasted longer if I would have wiped them every month or so. I wanted to see how long. Just what has worked for me . I used some T9 sprayed heavy on some bare metal control arms and but them outside exposed to the elements all winter. 6 months later in the spring they still didn't have any rust on them. I am waiting to hear about the next best thing I can use. There is always something better. I just haven't found it yet. Others will have their own best choices.
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Thanks for the reply Bob, I was hoping for something that would last much longer than a couple of months.
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Thanks for the reply Bob, I was hoping for something that would last much longer than a couple of months.
I am always looking for something better. Just trying to give realistic expectations.
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Cosmoline will last a lot longer than Boeshield. You just can't apply it and expect it to pass concours judging, however!
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I have had the best success with BoeShield as well...agree with Bob.
If you want something "long term" and never have to touch it again you are going to have to use paint.
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I have had the best success with BoeShield ...............
+2 so far
If you want something "long term" and never have to touch it again you are going to have to use paint.
But of course using paint will bring with it other issues. Seems nothing is perfect or though I'm told :)
Been asked and answered a few times here on this site
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14004.msg87134#msg87134 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14004.msg87134#msg87134)
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4008.msg33299#msg33299 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4008.msg33299#msg33299)
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9137.msg53518#msg53518 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9137.msg53518#msg53518)
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9117.msg53370#msg53370
(http://)
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WD 40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor is a product used by David at DSD Restoration. My suspension parts that he did are over a year old and still look perfect. Hard to find in stores, had a hardware store order it or you can it on line. I like it.
Chris
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WD 40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor is a product used by David at DSD Restoration. My suspension parts that he did are over a year old and still look perfect. Hard to find in stores, had a hardware store order it or you can it on line. I like it.
Chris
Amazon https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Corrosion-Inhibitor-Spray/dp/B0083V8KIW
$10.97 6.5 oz spray can.
Jim
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I know many painters that will not allow any WD40 products on the premises because of the silicone content and how it effects to be painted now and in the future surfaces.
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It is applied after any painting has been done. I do all my own painting and have not had any fisheye problems. Just be careful and all is good.
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Check this out: http://www.ecs-rpm.com/
Unless someone knows something I don't, I've heard nothing but good about it. In fact, I'm going to order up some of it tomorrow.
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Check this out: http://www.ecs-rpm.com/
Unless someone knows something I don't, I've heard nothing but good about it. In fact, I'm going to order up some of it tomorrow.
Just that it isn't any better but at least as good . May be harder to apply when doing touch up on a assembled car.
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Check this out: http://www.ecs-rpm.com/
Unless someone knows something I don't, I've heard nothing but good about it. In fact, I'm going to order up some of it tomorrow.
I have used the rust prevention magic and although Im still working on long term performance I'm confident this will turn out to be a very good product. It finishes dry to the touch.
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According to this article:
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-1106-pontiac-rust-prevention/ (http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-1106-pontiac-rust-prevention/)
This product is good up to 5 years:
http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/shop.htm (http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/shop.htm)
Has anyone used this?
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After seeing the many "in metal" works of art at Autorama AND ME LIVING IN A BODY SHOP THE LAST TWO YEARS (if have a new aprication for "body shop friendly" solvents I bring in with me !!!
http://www.radrides.com/store/parts/product/133-protectant
Mark
P.S. Troy's day used this in the USA Army in Korea. It wasn't comercially know until they package the same formula from reverse chemical engineering. (I have all the others too, but this stuff is great for metal)
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I've had good luck with POR-15. Dries hard as rock. It just can't be exposed to the Sun.
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I've had good luck with POR-15. Dries hard as rock.
Yes hard as a rock, doesn't reproduce any original finish and is difficult to top coat. Tried it once and I won't make that mistake again ;) But of course that is just my experience. Plenty of knock off products that produce the same results.
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To follow my inquiry yesterday on exhaust clamps and hangers related to this product. The Technical Data sheet on Boeshield indicates a 129 degree Fahrenheit flash point on Boeshield. Makes me a bit nervous on using this on hot exhaust components. Anyone have experience using this on exhaust components or an alternative that is more heat compliant.
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To follow my inquiry yesterday on exhaust clamps and hangers related to this product. The Technical Data sheet on Boeshield indicates a 129 degree Fahrenheit flash point on Boeshield. Makes me a bit nervous on using this on hot exhaust components. Anyone have experience using this on exhaust components or an alternative that is more heat compliant.
If used on exhaust pipes it will darken the metal after a few heat cycles (full warm up) . Not that much typically but noticeable compared to non treated . It would have to be treated again after use as it burns off to various degrees depending on the area. It is more for show car use when applied to exhaust pipe or clamps. For drivers aluminized steel or stainless is better. For exhaust clamps it is on going maintenance before each show. There are some high temp clear coat spray paints but they have their own short comings. No easy button here .
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To follow my inquiry yesterday on exhaust clamps and hangers related to this product. The Technical Data sheet on Boeshield indicates a 129 degree Fahrenheit flash point on Boeshield. Makes me a bit nervous on using this on hot exhaust components. ................
Believe you will find that just about any protective oil will have a flash point about the same. Example WD-40 is 122-131 so basically identical (multiple sources) Flame point is only 110 so basically a hot day in many parts of the country Believe WD-40 has allot of or is very similar to Kerosene
Here are some alternatives but they will each have is unique issues But don't think you would be using either on or around an exhaust system specifically. Think many of us have had experience in what happens ::) Though eventually the smoke cloud and smell goes away
Type F transmission fluid - 150 F
Motor oil - 420-480 F
Gear oil - 375-580 F
There is or was a paste product that was made for exhaust. Bought some and never used it so can't report on how well it held up or the unintended consequences
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The "flash point" is primarily for application, don't spray anything on a hot surface (even water sometimes). The volatile ingredients in sprays evaporate after a period of time, even kerosene evaporates and will not ignite. Obviously, if what will burn, collects in a pool, all bets are off.
I'll let Jeff enhance "volatiles".
Jim
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Yes hard as a rock, doesn't reproduce any original finish and is difficult to top coat. Tried it once and I won't make that mistake again ;) But of course that is just my experience. Plenty of knock off products that produce the same results.
I have had good luck top coating POR-15 by putting the first topcoat on when it was still tacky. I do the same with any products that are applied by spraying, whether aerosol or spray gun. Just my experience.
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interesting......
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Has anyone used Flood Penetrol.
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I have had good luck top coating POR-15 by putting the first topcoat on when it was still tacky. I do the same with any products that are applied by spraying, whether aerosol or spray gun. Just my experience.
I used POR on the underside of my trunk lid on the 65. I have no idea what's in this stuff but it expanded under the reinforcements and caused holy hell on the top surface.
For extra credit if it dries you can't paint over it unless you abrade it with 80 grit. No, I can't remember which product in their line since ALL of it went in the trash.
I do NOT like this stuff.
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I have used Nyalic. have no long term results, but sure is handy, and looks invisible.
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I have used Nyalic. have no long term results, but sure is handy, and looks invisible.
+1 Good stuff.
https://www.nyalic.com/Automobiles-_c_21.html
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DP
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WD40 does not contain any silicone. You can actually spray it on a bare metal panel & as long as it?s properly cleaned with wax & grease remover you will not have any paint issues.