ConcoursMustang Forums
General Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: carguytroy on October 22, 2017, 05:55:30 PM
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Hello all. New guy here from Utah. I have an opportunity to pick up a 1967 convertible 390 car. It is disassembled and sitting on a frame jig. Most all the parts are there. The car was torn down, sandblasted, and pretty much stopped after that point. Needs a couple of places patched in the floor. The rear quarters have been cut off from the top Body edge down. The rest of it just has light surface rust all over it. The Marti report he has doesn’t say “one of one” anywhere on it or anything like that. Shows it was vintage burgundy with black interior, automatic, power brakes, power steering, open rear end. I’ve already committed to buy it and I’m kind of exited about the car. We settled on $3500.00, worth the dough you guys think?
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any pics?? can you complete it yourself??
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Here's a couple of pics. I don't have many. I can complete it myself. Never painted before, but I have replaced all the body panels on a 66 that I have.
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/E7gRM36.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/E7gRM36)
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/jkrNW4O.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/jkrNW4O)
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/KRQEAff.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/KRQEAff)
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/DAQNhgC.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/DAQNhgC)
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/jNurHoT.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/jNurHoT)
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/ib18Ed1.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/ib18Ed1)
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Lost of money IMHO. "worth the dough you guys think?"
As few questions for you
1- Do you have the dollars to complete the car?
2- Can you do most of the work yourself or are you going to farm out many of the tasks?
3- If doing it yourself or at your place. Do you have the room (will take up the space of three cars)? Do you have the tools and the skills?
4- Of course, since your posting here, we assume that your planning on restoring the car to a high level so what do you think its going to cost you and what will it be worth (count your time and effort also) when done? And what could you buy a similar car for currently?
5- Guessing that since you purchased this car has been your dream car and your not going to mind it sitting in your garage for years and if you have a significant other they are on board with the space, time and $$$$'s
Interesting Marti report. Non-GT 390 auto car. Not allot of "pop" in the finished product. Not that its bad, given the dark exterior, top and interior colors, just not going to stand out at a show given the colors. Interesting amount of repair needed - not use to Salt Lake cars so don't know what is "normal" from that region of the US. Going to need to learn or find someone that know how to replace panels so they look like they have never been touched. In ways its unfortunate that the prior owner cut out the old panels - guessing they were not included with the car for at least their dates. Depending on just how much you got with the car (parts) you might consider looking for a late 67 San Jose coupe as a parts car.
Looks like it might have been used to tow a small boat around at some point.
BTW - Welcome to the site
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I can do most everything myself. As I said I have never painted but have replaced a lot of sheet metal(almost all of it) on a 66 I have. I did think I would go concours with it. I thought any 390 car was somewhat desirable whether is was a GT or not. All the parts are supposed to be there. Just stripped. I’ve known the guy for years. He doesn’t have the time or money to do the car. Figured I’d take it from here.
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Hello all. New guy here from Utah. I have an opportunity to pick up a 1967 convertible 390 car. It is disassembled and sitting on a frame jig. Most all the parts are there. The car was torn down, sandblasted, and pretty much stopped after that point. Needs a couple of places patched in the floor. The rear quarters have been cut off from the top Body edge down. The rest of it just has light surface rust all over it. The Marti report he has doesn’t say “one of one” anywhere on it or anything like that. Shows it was vintage burgundy with black interior, automatic, power brakes, power steering, open rear end. I’ve already committed to buy it and I’m kind of exited about the car. We settled on $3500.00, worth the dough you guys think?
Yep, I think you made a great buy and an "investment". I say investment because #1, it's a big block convertible from the 67-68 Mustang era. #2, It has a lot of parts that go with the car so that will save you. #3, And maybe the most important, as your description, it doesn't have hardly any rot which is HUGE in restoring any first Gen convertible BB Mustang.
#4, Lastly, If something happens down the road, personally or otherwise, IMO, you can still get your money plus an investment amount back. Big Block Convertible Mustangs from the 67-68 era are highly sought after, especially the conditon yours is in. There are a lot of people would be really excited, like you seem to be, that would love to have your future project.
Bottom line, Do it the way you want to do it. Whether it's concours, occasional driven or a daily driver. We drive both our first gen Mustangs on a regular basis. Coming here doesn't necessarily mean you're relegated to do it concours, but coming here you will get the right information just in case you go that direction.
Have fun and enjoy 8)
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Great buy in my opinion, I mean what can you buy for $3500! :o
I guess you have a clear title and drive train?
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I can do most everything myself. As I said I have never painted but have replaced a lot of sheet metal(almost all of it) on a 66 I have. I did think I would go concours with it. I thought any 390 car was somewhat desirable whether is was a GT or not. All the parts are supposed to be there. Just stripped. I’ve known the guy for years. He doesn’t have the time or money to do the car. Figured I’d take it from here.
You may have meant "any 390 Mustang" was somewhat desirable whether a GT or not. That's what I'm thinking.
Because not all "390 cars" are desirable whether a GT or not.....
Welcome to the forum :) 8)
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................#3, And maybe the most important, as your description, it doesn't have hardly any rot which is HUGE in restoring any first Gen convertible BB Mustang.
Pictures and description show at least the quarter panels, outer wheel tubs, trunk floors and trunk drops are gone. No pictures of the main or other floors or rockers. Not sure if in your region this is "hardly any rot" as usual, what is typical and expected is a regional thing and one of the reasons I've always learned to ask if there is ANY rust .......even what a seller might call "normal" since in some parts of the country I've learned that sellers might consider a car that needs full floors, quarters, trunk drops and some other panels as not worth mentioning. Think at $3500 its a deal but where to go from here is the question since this does not look like its going to be inexpensive.
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You may have meant "any 390 Mustang" was somewhat desirable whether a GT or not. That's what I'm thinking.
Because not all "390 cars" are desirable whether a GT or not.....
Welcome to the forum :) 8)
Yes that’s what I meant. Didn’t think that they made that many 390 mustangs.
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Great buy in my opinion, I mean what can you buy for $3500! :o
I guess you have a clear title and drive train?
He lost the title so he is in the process of getting a duplicate. Told him I would buy it as long as the title came back clean and right. He had a police inspection done on the car last week then applied for the new title.
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Pictures and description show at least the quarter panels, outer wheel tubs, trunk floors and trunk drops are gone. No pictures of the main or other floors or rockers. Not sure if in your region this is "hardly any rot" as usual, what is typical and expected is a regional thing and one of the reasons I've always learned to ask if there is ANY rust .......even what a seller might call "normal" since in some parts of the country I've learned that sellers might consider a car that needs full floors, quarters, trunk drops and some other panels as not worth mentioning. Think at $3500 its a deal but where to go from here is the question since this does not look like its going to be inexpensive.
Compared to my 66 this is a clean one owner. The 66 was my learning car. Learned way more than I really wanted too but I found out I really love welding.
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Should I get another Marti report?
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Should I get another Marti report?
Got one with the information you will need restoring it, don't see why you would. Facts aren't going to change and you'll just get figures that say its a one of one.
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Pictures and description show at least the quarter panels, outer wheel tubs, trunk floors and trunk drops are gone. No pictures of the main or other floors or rockers. Not sure if in your region this is "hardly any rot" as usual, what is typical and expected is a regional thing and one of the reasons I've always learned to ask if there is ANY rust .......even what a seller might call "normal" since in some parts of the country I've learned that sellers might consider a car that needs full floors, quarters, trunk drops and some other panels as not worth mentioning. Think at $3500 its a deal but where to go from here is the question since this does not look like its going to be inexpensive.
LOLOL. I knew you'd come back and say something to my post.....LOL, never fails!!!
He said in his OP, other than a few patches in floor and needing quarters, just surface rust. I'm sure the man is smart enough to see rot in the main chassis and frame railing and assume he would've mentioned it. Just going by what he said. Carguytroy seems to have been in this situation before and i'm sure he knows what he's up against. He seems to be a pretty smart guy ;)
Good Day, J_Speegle
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Compared to my 66 this is a clean one owner. The 66 was my learning car. Learned way more than I really wanted too but I found out I really love welding.
Just like I said, have fun, enjoy the experience. Will be a beautiful Mustang when your done. Hmmm, maybe a white rag top instead of black?? ;)
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You said mostly complete. That includes the born-with complete 390-4V engine, C-6 transmission, rear axle, etc? You scored!
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You said mostly complete. That includes the born-with complete 390-4V engine, C-6 transmission, rear axle, etc? You scored!
Thats what he says. The engine, trans, and rear end is at a different location. Haven't verified that part yet.
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LOLOL. I knew you'd come back and say something to my post.....LOL, never fails!!!
He said in his OP, other than a few patches in floor and needing quarters, just surface rust. I'm sure the man is smart enough to see rot in the main chassis and frame railing and assume he would've mentioned it. Just going by what he said. Carguytroy seems to have been in this situation before and i'm sure he knows what he's up against. He seems to be a pretty smart guy ;)
Good Day, J_Speegle
Not sure how smart I am. But the car seems pretty solid really. Any 50+ year old car that has been out in the elements(not garaged and pampered) in this area is going to have a fair amount of rust issues. Even my sons 2003 Escape that I got him a year ago with 93000 miles had rust in the rear over the wheel wells. And newer cars have much more rust protection than these old ones did. I had never done any rust repair till I bought the 66 and found out real quick I’d better learn or get ready to spend a bunch of money at the Body shop.
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Good luck on getting a clear title and finding the hidden drivetrain, keep us posted. 8)
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More pics. Kind of exited. I'm probably weird getting exited about a car that's all torn apart. Looks like the floor has been partially cut out. Would you go full floor, long pans, or short pans? And TIG or MIG weld if you do the partials? I have both.
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/yW1C8WP.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/yW1C8WP)
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/fTp2Gae.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/fTp2Gae)
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/giY139j.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /> (https://imgur.com/giY139j)
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Looks like its going to need a cowl also given the lower cowl panel located under the car. Read allot about replacement panels, methods and such before you start thinking about buying or having someone replace the panels if you don't flip the car before that
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Looks like its going to need a cowl also given the lower cowl panel located under the car. Read allot about replacement panels, methods and such before you start thinking about buying or having someone replace the panels if you don't flip the car before that
Not planning on flipping it. I think this one is a keeper. That’s why I’m on here. Looking for any and all pointers to put it back the way it was originally. With the help of you folks on here, a bit of luck on parts, and a whole lot of time and effort I should be able to do so. Thanks to all of you in advance for the help. I’m gonna need it
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Not planning on flipping it. I think this one is a keeper. That’s why I’m on here. Looking for any and all pointers to put it back the way it was originally. With the help of you folks on here, a bit of luck on parts, and a whole lot of time and effort I should be able to do so. Thanks to all of you in advance for the help. I’m gonna need it
Great and good luck.
Remember when asking questions remind us when and where the car was built. Might even consider adding it to your signature in your profile. Again - welcome
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...Going to need to learn or find someone that know how to replace panels so they look like they have never been touched. In ways its unfortunate that the prior owner cut out the old panels - guessing they were not included with the car for at least their dates. Depending on just how much you got with the car (parts) you might consider looking for a late 67 San Jose coupe as a parts car...
I would STRONGLY suggest this approach if you intend to "restore" this example to anything beyond the typical "rust-belt" full-floor, cowl and quarter panel rebuild job. Certainly, a person could section in the whole floor pans with reproduction parts and many people are quite capable of making it look good enough for the local Hamburger/Malt Shop car shows. Perhaps, this is the compromise you are willing to accept on your project and if so, just keep in mind that some (judges) might easily detect this at a more stringent venue. Getting the unibody "right" isn't very easy for even the most skilled auto body persons because it is nearly impossible to duplicate (or simulate) the factory welds.
There are threads discussing how to section in panels and re-using the original welds (by re-using the larger portions of the original panels where they are still good) but your pictures, showing they have been cut out and presumably already thrown out, limit your options on this detail.
A "Donor" California or Arizona Coupe could supply you with enough "original panels" to save you a whole lot of grief. Most of the "convertible only" panels are likely intact on your car and those parts could be grafted into a better job with that coupe body. Jeff's advise is very good on this detail.
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I would STRONGLY suggest this approach if you intend to "restore" this example to anything beyond the typical "rust-belt" full-floor, cowl and quarter panel rebuild job. Certainly, a person could section in the whole floor pans with reproduction parts and many people are quite capable of making it look good enough for the local Hamburger/Malt Shop car shows. Perhaps, this is the compromise you are willing to accept on your project and if so, just keep in mind that some (judges) might easily detect this at a more stringent venue. Getting the unibody "right" isn't very easy for even the most skilled auto body persons because it is nearly impossible to duplicate (or simulate) the factory welds.
Not only judges and the like but when it comes to resale ...... which always happens at some point. It can and likely will affect the cars value. Especially the rarer and more expensive the car is
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I would like to do this as close to original as possible. Is there any threads you can point me in the direction of? I’ve searched a bit on here and I may be wording things wrong. Not coming up with what I want. Can reproduction panels be used in a concourse type restoration?
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..................Not coming up with what I want. Can reproduction panels be used in a concourse type restoration?
Depends
- on the reproduction panels - they are not all created the same or like originals
- and what level of restoration your aiming for. In many cases (especially given your cars situation) they may be the best choice if you can purchase good reproductions though others will choose saving the originals, repairing smaller sections saving the date stamps and other details or purchase panels from a donor car. Not always easy for convertible specific panels though many of the panels are the same no matter what body style.
On many exterior panels you will find people that have gone through the effort of restoring a car, aiming you towards either good used or NOS rather than reproductions that may require many hours of work to get them to fit or look original
Suggest you start a new thread in the Member Restorations/Builds section of the site. Or start a new thread in a more appropriate section. ;)
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Not coming up with what I want. Can reproduction panels be used in a concourse type restoration?
The answer to your simple question...yes
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Any tips on how to move the car without screwing it up? With the floors cut up and the quarters gone I’m nervous. I have bolt in door braces that attach to the pillars and two bars that bolt to the trans tunnel I bought for my 66 when I did the floors. Will those work for the 67? Any help/ideas are greatly appreciated.
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The answer to your simple question...yes
I knew a guy who fixed a Mach 1.... ;D
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Title came back all good. Now I need to figure out how to move it. It’s on a homemade body cart now. Any suggestions?
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I knew a guy who fixed a Mach 1.... ;D
Me too, he lives in GA ;D
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Title came back all good. Now I need to figure out how to move it. It’s on a homemade body cart now. Any suggestions?
Seems the dolly rolls. Try to get it up on a flat, low boy type racecar trailer and strap down good and tight, checking frequently going home. I know it's going to be tough, but then again, it may not be according to the way it rolls and the style ramps used. I have bought whole Chevy novas (for racing everybody) with no suspension, only needing the sheetmetal and other items, and somehow brain stormed a good idea that works.....Good Luck Troy :)