ConcoursMustang Forums

Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Suspension => Topic started by: 68 S Code on October 05, 2010, 10:45:31 AM

Title: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 05, 2010, 10:45:31 AM
I have most of my suspension pieces cleaned, evapo rust dipped and ready for final finish. This will be a street driven concourse car so I really don't want to have to constantly refinish components. i know painting would be a quick solution but I've been told that applying comosile would be good for about 18 months and then you just need to reapply. What would you suggest for the center link? Should it get the gun bluing and hen a light coat of clear urethane or gun bluing and comosile?
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: CharlesTurner on October 05, 2010, 11:28:59 AM
How does the part look after evapo-rust?  Seen some stuff look nearly good enough to use, right out of the solution.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 05, 2010, 04:31:21 PM
If you tell me how to post a picture I will show you. The 5 gallon bucket was well worth it. Don't need to sandblast as much anymore. I run the part in question under a wire wheel to loosen up the rust or remove any paint and then dip it for a day or two. If your not ready to refinish or waiting to do a batch you just wash the part, dip it for a few seconds, and let it air dry. Will stay rust free for 2 weeks. If rust comes back just re dip. Control arms looked like new and I didn't add any texture with bead blasting. The only thing which was an issue was gas tank neck. Evapo-rust reacted with the tin finish thought it was galvanized but been corrected). The tinning turned fluorescent green in blotches. Nothing except a small wire brush could get it off. Best $90 I spent this summer.

My engine builder friend bought a 55 gallon drum and he will be dipping my engine after machining process. He agrees that its a wonderful product. Best part is that it doesn't effect other non iron parts. Dipped emergency brake cable with a rubber nipple and the nipple was unaffected. 
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 05, 2010, 09:26:11 PM
Charles, what is the finish on the center link for a 68. Just raw or did it get heat treated (meaning I need to blue it)?
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: CharlesTurner on October 06, 2010, 01:13:45 AM
The finish was just a natural cast appearance, slightly darkened from the forming process and then coated with cosmoline. 

I've had good results with dipping in a hot manganese phosphate solution for 15 seconds.  Dry out the part and then rub with steel wool and oil.  Followed by a coat of boe-shield.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 06, 2010, 01:47:46 AM
Thank you.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: gtamustang on October 06, 2010, 10:36:04 AM
I run the part in question under a wire wheel to loosen up the rust or remove any paint ...

Personally, I would avoid using a wire wheel as you loose the original finish by doing that. Try cleaning the part in a parts washer using a brass brush, then put the part in the evapo-rust. Afterwards, wipe the part dry to remove any of the by-product from the evapo-rust and you are left with the original finish. Spray with whatever rust protectant you prefer.

Removing rust prior to evapo-rust is not needed as the solution will do that work for you. You might be surprised to find paint marks that you didn't know where there! Also, I use paint stripper to remove any paint that should not be there. Again, that doesn't affect the original finish.

Charles' method with phosphate (I can achieve the same finish with zinc versus manganese) works well too.

Regards,
Pete Morgan
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 06, 2010, 11:37:06 AM
Pete thanks for the suggestion. This zinc and manganese finishes you mention are these home kits or do you have to send out the parts. I saw my friend who restores these cars for a living does his own phospating using an old stove. he cooks up a brew and coats the parts. Too bad he's not local. If there are some home kits for the weekend restorer where do you get the stuff?
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: CharlesTurner on October 06, 2010, 12:32:02 PM
You can buy zinc or manganese phosphate from most any gun supply store.  There's some online, such as midway usa.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 08, 2010, 11:55:11 AM
Thanks for the info. Does this require cooking up a brew or do you just wipe it on right out of a can?
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: CharlesTurner on October 08, 2010, 05:15:09 PM
Thanks for the info. Does this require cooking up a brew or do you just wipe it on right out of a can?

Just mix the solution with water, put in a stainless steel pot and bring the temperature to 180F before dropping parts in.  Let them soak from 5-15 minutes depending on size.  Some instructions say to put in a pad of coarse steel wool to "prime" the solution before using on parts.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 29, 2010, 09:19:24 PM
Ran across something odd on the PS valve assembly. Once it cleaned up I found a white paint mark between the stud and the main body of the cast valve. Easy enough to replicate this white mark. But the odd thing is that the end of the cylinder with the stud appears to have been dipped black just short of the stud. Also the collar with the bolt that is used to tighten the end around the center link is painted half black and half natural (black across the top and natural across the bottom with the bolt. At first i suspected someone may have been painting the engine compartment on my car prior to me owning it and possibly they accidentally painted this end black. But once I removed the clamp with the bolt I found paint below it. That leads me to believe that this piece was dipped before the collar was added. Why the collar is half black i don't know.

What would you say would be correct. Should I dip the end and reinstall the half black half natural collar as is? Has anyone seen this before. I won't even repaint it as it looks presentable as is.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: CharlesTurner on October 30, 2010, 01:07:01 AM
Most all of the control valves I've seen were natural, no paint.  Are you sure your control valve hasn't been removed/rebuilt or is a replacement piece?
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: Bob Gaines on October 30, 2010, 12:02:27 PM
Most all of the control valves I've seen were natural, no paint.  Are you sure your control valve hasn't been removed/rebuilt or is a replacement piece?
+1. Bob
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 30, 2010, 12:34:12 PM
Looks to be dated correctly on the alum end cap with 8e7b. The white paint daub wouldn't have been done by Rebuilder.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on October 30, 2010, 05:25:14 PM
Bob send me an e-mail to viperrick@aol and I will forward you a pic. The date on end cap corresponds to build date of car so wouldn't say it was changed. Also I've owned it since 84 so odds that it would have needed rebuild in first 15 years was slim.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: J_Speegle on October 31, 2010, 01:12:28 AM
Looks to be dated correctly on the alum end cap with 8e7b. The white paint daub wouldn't have been done by Rebuilder.

Seen daubs and stamps used by rebuilders to identify their work. Paint is often the quicker of the two

Just an observation - As far as needing attention by 84 - Changed a number of them during the 70's on cars I had, would guess the year or period of time would not be as important as how many miles the car had on it at the time ;)
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on November 02, 2010, 08:56:22 PM
Since no one has said anything regarding the white paint daub between the stud and the valve I will reapply that one. Regarding the black on the end i will think about it. I have photo documented what I found and feel comfortable putting it back as is. i figure I can always remove it with paint stripper even on the car if need be. The paint I use for dipping seems to strip off easily enough with the aircraft grade stripper I use. Had to strip my upper control arms and the black came off easy but the urethane primer was a pain. All good now on the a arms and getting ball joints riveted in.
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: CharlesTurner on November 02, 2010, 10:04:03 PM
I'd recommend leaving the black paint and the white daub off until you do some more research on the matter.  If you can find a couple more examples from the same assy. plant and time period, would support what you found. 
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: T Lea on November 03, 2010, 08:04:38 AM
I'd recommend leaving the black paint and the white daub off until you do some more research on the matter.  If you can find a couple more examples from the same assy. plant and time period, would support what you found.
+1 never seen anything like those either
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: Bob Gaines on November 04, 2010, 12:08:44 AM
+1 never seen anything like those either
+2 . You can always add it later if you find other corroborating evidence to convince others to support your belief. Bob
Title: Re: 68 center link finish and ps valve.
Post by: 68 S Code on November 06, 2010, 07:56:10 PM
When installing the valve assembly on the center link the collar bolt is on the bottom so that means the compression pin gets installed throughout the top? That means it has to go through the long slot of the valve assembly and into the pre-drilled hole in the centerlink? Typically what is the length of the pin? Found one at hardware store which fits the hole but available in 1/2", 3/4", and 1". So which is close to The correct length.