Author Topic: Ospho results and a few more finish questions  (Read 3047 times)

Offline 390Pony

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Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« on: July 03, 2012, 06:29:57 PM »
Well I used the gun bluing to approximate the darkened look on the idler and pitman arms. Both look good. Also messed around with Ospho to phosphate some brake line brackets and the accel arm. It took about a 4 to 1 mix of water to Ospho to result in a concentration strong enough to see good results in 10 minutes or so of cooking. Dried, heated and oiled with WD-40, followed by Boeshield a day or so later. I'm happy with the results being a rookie.

Is the clutch rod that attaches the pedal to the Z bar through the firewall phosphate "natural" finish or shiny zinc ?

Oh yeah...also I'm putting the steering wheel back in after replacing the firewall insulation pad..That was fun. Is the order of assembly...Firewall, Rubber Seal, Insulation Pad, Lower Column Brackets ? or do the brackets sit beneath the insulation pad securing only the rubber seal to the firewall ?

Thanks  :-\ 

Offline PetesPonies

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Re: Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2012, 05:38:33 PM »
Rather than use that product, get some Phosphoric acid from Home depot. They sell it as a concrete whitener. It is much less expensive and a stronger ratio of acid.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

Offline jwc66k

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Re: Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2012, 10:08:16 PM »
Rather than use that product, get some Phosphoric acid from Home depot. They sell it as a concrete whitener. It is much less expensive and a stronger ratio of acid.
Have you got a brand name? Their web site does not list "concrete whitener".
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline DKutz

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Re: Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2016, 01:49:33 PM »
Dried, heated and oiled with WD-40, followed by Boeshield a day or so later. I'm happy with the results being a rookie.



How did you heat them after?  oven?  how long?
1965 Mustang Fastback 'A' Code, silver Blue Met, Med blue int. Auto, San Jose, 10/8/64 #1449**

Gone but not forgotten - 1996 Mustang GT

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2016, 02:38:08 PM »
Well I used the gun bluing to approximate the darkened look on the idler and pitman arms. Both look good. Also messed around with Ospho to phosphate some brake line brackets and the accel arm. It took about a 4 to 1 mix of water to Ospho to result in a concentration strong enough to see good results in 10 minutes or so of cooking. Dried, heated and oiled with WD-40, followed by Boeshield a day or so later. I'm happy with the results being a rookie.

Is the clutch rod that attaches the pedal to the Z bar through the firewall phosphate "natural" finish or shiny zinc ?

Oh yeah...also I'm putting the steering wheel back in after replacing the firewall insulation pad..That was fun. Is the order of assembly...Firewall, Rubber Seal, Insulation Pad, Lower Column Brackets ? or do the brackets sit beneath the insulation pad securing only the rubber seal to the firewall ?

Thanks  :-\
Clutch rod was bare steel but barely zinc phosphated will look close and hold the boeshield better.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline preaction

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Re: Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2016, 01:28:33 PM »
From Home Depot.
8F02R218047-  July 18 1968   Dearborn

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2016, 05:58:33 PM »
From Home Depot.
Paint department or where cement products are?
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline preaction

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Re: Ospho results and a few more finish questions
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2016, 06:13:55 PM »
Paint department, I have tried this and it is a good product to use as a blackening agent, its much different that evaporust.
8F02R218047-  July 18 1968   Dearborn