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1
Suspension / Re: finishing drum brakes
« Last post by caspian65 on Today at 04:10:48 PM »
Put it on semi-heavy and bake a 500 degrees won't hold up?

Find out for yourself if you like.  I can guarantee after 6-12 months you'll start to see surface rust coming through.
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Suspension / Re: finishing drum brakes
« Last post by evantugby on Today at 03:50:18 PM »
Those rattle cans won't hold up over time.  The eastwood exhaust manifold cast-gray would be good.

Put it on semi-heavy and bake a 500 degrees won't hold up? 
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Suspension / Re: finishing drum brakes
« Last post by caspian65 on Today at 03:14:27 PM »
Those rattle cans won't hold up over time.  The eastwood exhaust manifold cast-gray would be good.
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Rear brake cables
« Last post by jwc66k on Today at 02:54:36 PM »
I do see a parting line on one portion that looks like an extrusion line.
Look at the top of this pic. This line is not raised, it appears to be indented.
Residual manufacturing marks from the die. The tube may be extruded flat, formed into a round and then bonded.
Jim
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1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Sway Bar: HiPo? Shelby? or Aftermarket?
« Last post by rocket289k on Today at 02:51:58 PM »
Hi there,

Both the GT (A code or K code) or a non GT (K code only) received the "special handling package" which included a larger sway bar (13/16" diameter) as standard equipment as part of selecting a GT or K-code (non-GT) option.  So your choices would be a Special Handling package (13/16" diameter) or Shelby (1" diameter) front sway bar.

Regards,


Ron
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1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Sway Bar: HiPo? Shelby? or Aftermarket?
« Last post by jwc66k on Today at 02:50:54 PM »
I used a digital caliper gauge to measure the diameter and it comes in at .8750" or 7/8".
When referring to Tony Gregory's Hipo book 4th edition, it mentions the diameter should be .813" diameter or 13/16" so mine is larger.
I measured three 65-66 Mustang GT front sway bars, all from San Jose cars, a May 65, a Oct 65 and a 66 Hardtop, build date believed to be in Feb 66, and the average diameter is 0.840 inch. I made the measurements in 5 different locations, one on each side of the insulator area and in the center. I used a mechanical caliper (more reliable) to measure all within the last 15 minutes of this post. There are always manufacturing tolerances and on hard drawn, tempered steel, it's difficult to maintain. As a result, dimensional differences are allowed to occur to "enhance" the requirement. In this case, a 0.813 inch required diameter would be probably a minimum, with up to 0.040 inch maximum over.
Jim
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Suspension / Re: finishing drum brakes
« Last post by evantugby on Today at 02:26:51 PM »
Another option would be one of the ceramic paints that many use on exhaust manifolds applied not too thick so it looks painted. Would also redo the outer machined surfaces but your examples are pretty pitted so that might not be an option

Jeff,
When you say outer machined surfaces, do you mean this area? Pic 1

Caspian/Jeff, which paint would you go with? Pic 2. The dupli-color is called cast coat iron which is an enamel with ceramic.
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1967 - 1968 / Re: Rear brake cables
« Last post by Bossbill on Today at 02:23:42 PM »
I took a piece of hose off of my parts car and washed it as good as I could.
I do see a parting line on one portion that looks like an extrusion line.
Look at the top of this pic. This line is not raised, it appears to be indented.
9
1967 - 1968 / Re: Rear brake cables
« Last post by 67gtasanjose on Today at 02:13:02 PM »
I worked a matching length onto one cable.

It wasn't easy and my fingers will need a break for round 2 but how's this look?
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1964 1/2 - 1966 / Re: Drive Shaft Yokes: How to finish?
« Last post by evantugby on Today at 02:12:49 PM »
Thanks!
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