Author Topic: C4 Transmission pan finish  (Read 195 times)

Offline ChrisV289

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C4 Transmission pan finish
« on: January 06, 2018, 10:13:08 PM »
What color should the transmission pan be? Not sure who painted it if it is supposed to be.  Second pic is the inside
« Last Edit: January 12, 2018, 05:05:55 PM by J_Speegle »
Chris
1965 Honey Gold Fastback

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2018, 10:26:29 PM »
Bare new front sheet.
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline NEFaurora

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2018, 01:30:00 AM »

Jeff, Would recommend some help here..

Historically, Both of my cars have dripped Tranny Fluid from the Tranny pans due to Previous people warping/bending the sides of the pans during bolt installation.  I finally located about (20) Early C4 Correct gaskets but have yet to install one,  Before I do so, The "Drip-Drip" leaking problem with the stock pans has annoyed me so much over the years that I'm actually considering buying B&M Stock size Aluminum finned tranny pans with drain plugs.  The Aluminum pans don't warp or bend like the stock steel pans and I like the added bonuses of cooling fins and a drain plug.  I don't venture away from stock too often (perish the thought!), but this is one time and area I am seriously considering it.

Thoughts??  Suggestions??

What's your take/experience using the stock tranny pans....and to keep them from leaking....!

Thanks Jeff.

:o)

Tony K.
Tony Kovar (NEFaurora@aol.com)
1965 Mustang Convertible 200 cid 3spd manual
1966 Mustang Convertible Sprint 200 C4 Auto
2007 Mustang Convertible V6 Auto with "Pony Package".
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Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2018, 03:36:16 PM »
What's your take/experience using the stock tranny pans....and to keep them from leaking....!

IF the pan is in good shape I just tap out the bolt holes if someone has over tighen the bolts and deformed the metal around them back into shape. Reinstall a cork gasket and use just a little bead of form a gasket on both sides and reinstall. Don't over tighten - just enough to hold the pan in place with a little compression so that I can come back at a later date if needed to give it just a little more.
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2018, 03:49:21 PM »
My 2 cents reading this threads is If the pan is not in great shape or was leaking before you may want to invest in another pan. I think the new repro pans are only 20.00. A finned aluminum after market pan you mentioned is about 200.00,looks out of place and will arguably have no benefits over a sheet metal pan in normal driving conditions.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline Morsel

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2018, 04:03:46 PM »
Here's the method I used to stop a leaking pan that I posted on another site, I attempted to fix it several times with no luck, I tried everyone else suggestions and nothing worked, continued leaking. The good news is you have a real Ford Gasket which is thicker and better than any i found, so you can ignore that part, but everything else applies and finally worked for me. And it's been two months and still no spots under the car

"I've had nothing but trouble try to get my C4 pan to stop leaking. I,ve tried everything that's been suggested here and I couldn't get it to stop. But I finally did and thought I would share what I did to finally get it to stop.

I've tried six different times with different gaskets and methods suggested. My pan is original because my car is original. I've tried all different torques specs, tried lubelocker gaskets, cork gaskets of different qualities, synthetic gaskets, and different torque specs and by feel as others suggested. Nothing worked. And I didn't want to use RTV or any other silicones to stop it cause you shouldn't have to.

I tried again and bought another cork gasket. This one came and it was much different than any I had received previously. First, it was all real cork and didn,t have that flimsy rubbery feel that the others I,ve received have, it was also a lot thicker than others. My pan is dead straight, of course this was taken care of after the second attempt with things I read, so that was never the issue. This was of course making sure there were no dimples cause from over tightening the pan at the pan bolt holes, checked every edge with a straight edge previously and pounded it flat using wood pieces to get it to lay perfectly flat.

Ok, for install, obviously I cleaned the hell out of everything as I always did using brake cleaner and made sure everything was dry, including the transmission where the pan will sit, no fluid leaking down on to the edge. Installed the pan and made sure gasket was square (which of course I always did before). Hand tightened all the bolts as tight as I could.

Now, I,ve looked everywhere for people telling me actual torque specs, no one will list it. The ford shop manual says 12 - 16 foot pounds which everyone?s says is just too tight, which I believe to be true as well from trying it before. 12 foot pounds is 144 inch pounds, a lot. Since I,m not good with "feel" I wanted actual numbers.

Here's how I beat it, I torqued the bolts to 60 inch pounds in a crosscross pattern. I let it sit for 2 hours to sort of mold to the shape. Then I torqued it again to 95 inch pounds in a crisscross pattern again and let sit for 24 hours, again forming to the shape. Last thing, torqued them to 125 inch pounds in same crisscross pattern and watched the gasket for a slight bludge which it just started to do at each bolt. Again I let it sit for 24 hours before filling with fluid.

Filled it with fluid and it's been a week and no leaks, I finally got it.

So I thought I would share what worked for me because I know a lot of people suffer from this same thing and have trouble getting it under control.

Hope this helps others in the future."

Jason

Offline jwc66k

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2018, 04:24:31 PM »
IF the pan is in good shape I just tap out the bolt holes if someone has over tighen the bolts and deformed the metal around them back into shape.
The sane solution.
If the pan is not in great shape or was leaking before you may want to invest in another pan.
The second sane solution.
Adding gaskets, or using one too thin, to a bent pan is not the solution. I've used an arbor press to push the deformed metal around the mounting holes back to normal. I've added a flat washer (not a concourse solution) to spread the force that the screw exerts. Those are the some of the methods used by transmission shops for decades.
Jim
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Offline suskeenwiske

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2018, 04:21:35 PM »
What color should the transmission pan be? Not sure who painted it if it is supposed to be.  Second pic is the inside

Back to square one. Is a bare Trans Pan correct for both the 6 and 8 Cylinder Cars and does this apply for the 1964-1/2 through 1966 years at all Plants?

Thanks

Ray
Ray
1965 Dearborn Coupe
6 Cylinder, AT, PB, PS, AC
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Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Transmission pan finish
« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2018, 05:05:18 PM »
Back to square one. Is a bare Trans Pan correct for both the 6 and 8 Cylinder Cars and does this apply for the 1964-1/2 through 1966 years at all Plants?


The C4 application (6 cyl or V8) does not change the pan so - yes both had the same finish. And transmissions were built at a different plant than the cars  so same source
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)