Recent Posts

11

Interior & Trunk / Re: Fastback Interior Fiberglass Quarter Repair

« Last post by 66TotalPerf on Today at 01:12:52 PM »

To follow up on this topic, I wasn't successful at duplicating the texture. Tried many different molds, many different adhesives/mediums, and none of them looked right. Ended up just sanding the repaired sections smooth and painting. Will keep my eye out for set of OEM quarter panels and replace at some point in the future.

Thanks for all the advice!
Brent

12

1966 Shelby / Re: Mixing Insructions GT350H Bronze Gold Powder

« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 12:13:29 PM »

Thank you for your reply.  I have the 10" and varying stripe dimensions supplied from Branda Performance.  Should there be something different?  I have purchased stencils for the GT 350H side stripes and from what I have determined they have the correct dimensions and spacing.  I have repainted my original Hertz Shelby Mustang with the original Sapphire Blue in base-coat and clear-coat. I have purchase a quart of the Inca Gold Pearl Paint in base-coat and it is much to gold compared to the Gold Bronze Powder that I purchased from Mustangs Unlimited in the 70's.  The powder is more "bronze or red" then the Inca Gold.  I am looking for some basic mixing instructions for the Gold Bronze Powder.  Such as how much clear is needed to cover the total stripes both on the side stripes (GT 350H) and the 10" and varying stripe down the center of the car?  What is the ratio of powder to clear?  How much powder to clear should I mix?

You mention discoloration with the bronze powder and yet you stated you used it with no ill effects.  Is that with current clear-coat paint such as Omni Clear?  You also mention Inca Gold.  What was used?  And then that you got the Bronze Powder.  WHY?  I realize that the powder is no longer available from the usual suppliers (Branda/Mustang Unlimited).  But there are suppliers of Gold Bronze Powder available.  I do not need these.  I want the to use this original powder purchased years ago as I understand that it is the most original powder/paint.  I also understand the some Shelby Mustangs received the Painted Stripes from the dealers as Shelby's price was to expensive.  Which could mean that not all Shelby Gold Stripes are the same color.  Since this is an Original Hertz Shelby with number in the 1200's I suspect that Shelby painted the stripes and not the dealer who received the vehicle.  Can you help with the mixing instructions for this Bronze Gold Powder per Shelby's instructions?  Any help is appreciated.  Thanks

  The dimensions you got for the stripes on Branda's website  are correct. There was no stencil used for the 66 GT350 or 350H side stripe. Base coat clear coat was not used on the 66 GT350 or any other 66 Mustang for that matter. The factory paint was a single stage.The bronze powder used on the cars back in the day would sometimes oxidize OVER TIME . Some didn't . I was concerned about the possibility on my stripe. It may happen 6 months from now or hopefully never.  I only used the bronze powder because of a mistake in communication between myself and the restoration shop. I was wanting a gold that was to be mixed up based on my original valance. That unfortunately didn't happen.  I am not a painter and would not want to relay second hand information about something as critical as mixing information of bronze powder suspended in clear. If you decide to mix the powder and the clear then using the powder you bought years ago from Mustangs unlimited is risky IMO. Your description of the powder "The powder is more "bronze or red then the Inca Gold. " worries me that it may have oxidized a little or a lot over the years as is common with bronze. At the very least get fresh bronze powder. FYI the powder you bought from Mustang unlimited years ago was not anything Shelby American original.  Mustangs unlimited and Branda got the bronze powder from the same generic source as they shared many items in their catalog common to both. The Hertz cars got their Le Mans stripes at Shelby not a dealer like some non Hertz GT350 may have. Not all Hertz cars got Lemans stripes. Example red and green cars did not get Le mans stripes. If you like them then do what you want but in a concours venue a red or green Hertz car would be points deducted for having Le mans stripes. 

13

1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish

« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 11:32:19 AM »

The 67-68 rules say on manual brakes Semi gloss black or zinc-dichromate. I would assume that would be the entire master cylinder and cap. The rules were changes some time ago to also except natural manual cylinder and caps. That would be better verbiage than calling out just the 67 zinc-dichromate, as how it seems to end up in the rules. I have seen a number of natural master cylinders on manual unrestored cars including my car.

I get tunnel vision sometimes thinking everyone is thinking about disc brake cars and so I amended my post to reflect the lids I have a high confidence level about. The manual drum brake cars I am not so sure about other then the 67 lid color is gold to start and 68 silver .

14

1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish

« Last post by dkknab on Today at 10:14:55 AM »

So I'll have to paint the top and hold down wire black.  I think I can spray paint it black in place while masking off the area to avoid overspray.

I did find a picture from 2020 after I purchased the car of the master cylinder cap and wire.  Sure does look black.  Might this be an original cap? The cap is also pictured in my post #6.

15

1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish

« Last post by ruppstang on Today at 08:46:39 AM »

The 67-68 rules say on manual brakes Semi gloss black or zinc-dichromate. I would assume that would be the entire master cylinder and cap. The rules were changes some time ago to also except natural manual cylinder and caps. That would be better verbiage than calling out just the 67 zinc-dichromate, as how it seems to end up in the rules. I have seen a number of natural master cylinders on manual unrestored cars including my car. 

16

Interior & Trunk / Re: Applying quarter trim upholstery on convertible

« Last post by Corey Bowcutt on Today at 07:36:51 AM »

dave6768, this is very helpful.  Your panels look excellent!  What adhesive did you use?

Thank you,

Corey

17

1966 Shelby / Re: Mixing Insructions GT350H Bronze Gold Powder

« Last post by chsproscon on Today at 05:35:18 AM »

Thank you for your reply.  I have the 10" and varying stripe dimensions supplied from Branda Performance.  Should there be something different?  I have purchased stencils for the GT 350H side stripes and from what I have determined they have the correct dimensions and spacing.  I have repainted my original Hertz Shelby Mustang with the original Sapphire Blue in base-coat and clear-coat. I have purchase a quart of the Inca Gold Pearl Paint in base-coat and it is much to gold compared to the Gold Bronze Powder that I purchased from Mustangs Unlimited in the 70's.  The powder is more "bronze or red" then the Inca Gold.  I am looking for some basic mixing instructions for the Gold Bronze Powder.  Such as how much clear is needed to cover the total stripes both on the side stripes (GT 350H) and the 10" and varying stripe down the center of the car?  What is the ratio of powder to clear?  How much powder to clear should I mix?

You mention discoloration with the bronze powder and yet you stated you used it with no ill effects.  Is that with current clear-coat paint such as Omni Clear?  You also mention Inca Gold.  What was used?  And then that you got the Bronze Powder.  WHY?  I realize that the powder is no longer available from the usual suppliers (Branda/Mustang Unlimited).  But there are suppliers of Gold Bronze Powder available.  I do not need these.  I want the to use this original powder purchased years ago as I understand that it is the most original powder/paint.  I also understand the some Shelby Mustangs received the Painted Stripes from the dealers as Shelby's price was to expensive.  Which could mean that not all Shelby Gold Stripes are the same color.  Since this is an Original Hertz Shelby with number in the 1200's I suspect that Shelby painted the stripes and not the dealer who received the vehicle.  Can you help with the mixing instructions for this Bronze Gold Powder per Shelby's instructions?  Any help is appreciated.  Thanks

18

1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish

« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 02:14:01 AM »

Back to the master cylinder.  At Birmingham I got dinged for a silver cap and not black.  Before I paint the cap I have or get a second cap to paint black,  I just wanted to confirm that silver cap for my car is correct as I thought we decided in earlier posts on this thread.

The MCA grading sheet gives black or zinc dichromate as the options,  not silver.

They are all (front disc brake) painted black . 65-67 the caps were zinc dichromate before being painted black . 68 up the caps were zinc silver before being painted black.

19

1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish

« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 02:10:43 AM »

Not sure were the group came to that conclusion (caps not being black with the rest of the master cylinder) but IMHO and from experience they should be painted as a unit black with cap to reduce the chance of the master cylinders rusting while in Fords control. On power brake cars the master cylinder and booster were painted as a unit - together

Jeff, he said that he got dinged for the cap "not" being black. To add, underneath the black paint it should be silver for 68. When the bail wire is un clamped and clamped like during pre delivery to check fluid level inevitably the black paint gets scratched. Underneath the black paint silver should show through.

20

1969 - 70 Shelby / Wheel restoration

« Last post by Tomdeg on Today at 02:10:30 AM »

Hey all,
My wheels are looking a little tired and could use a refresh. The chrome is still in great shape, but the centers need help. What?s the general consensus on refreshing the cast spokes? Media blast, walnut shells?, acid? And how to duplicate the satin finish on the outer sections? Thanks in advance.
Tom