ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on December 20, 2018, 05:18:27 AM
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I just painted my dash with the Charcoal Grey Metallic Dash paint spray bomb. Has anyone else used it. I did read some other threads on it and laid down black primer before as recommended. It actually looks black when not in direct light. I have not seen it in daylight yet, but when I shine a light on it and it does look dark grey. Hard to tell in the photos, but I am just curious if this is what most people do or if they just use a black paint like Trim Black for example or mix something up. I was considering using the same paint for all of the rear panels, but having doubts now. How correct is the spray bomb product from Scott Drake and is this the way to go or another option. As a rule I am not a fan of spray bombs, but was not sure how to colour match the Charcoal Grey Metallic. The down side of spray bombs is how it lays down, the upside might be the correct
colour.
FYI I am painting the hinge off the car with a dry spray to duplicate how it was originally applied as per the photos I took as I still have work to do under the dash and I didn't want to leave the door installed. Basically only half of the hinge gets painted as the side bolted to the glove box door and under the dash don't get paint.
Thanks
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Was the Spray you used noted "Interior Paint" ? Just curious because for 68, Ford shows a "Charcoal Black Metallic" and a "Medium Gray Charcoal Metallic" for Interior Paints, but no "Dark Charcoal Metallic" . The "Dark Charcoal Metallic" only shows up as an Exterior Color.
Ford Paint Chart for 68 attached.
Bob
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Was the Spray you used noted "Interior Paint" ? Just curious because for 68, Ford shows a "Charcoal Black Metallic" and a "Medium Gray Charcoal Metallic" for Interior Paints, but no "Dark Charcoal Metallic" . The "Dark Charcoal Metallic" only shows up as an Exterior Color.
Ford Paint Chart for 68 attached.
Bob
Hi Bob I need to go back to my shop and check the can, but I ordered what I thought was the correct paint for a black interior car. I think it was black Charcoal, but will confirm. My invoice lists it as black charcoal. It does look black except when it is in direct light and then looks more grey. I may have quoted the wrong color name, but it is Scott Drake interior paint.
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Was the Spray you used noted "Interior Paint" ? Just curious because for 68, Ford shows a "Charcoal Black Metallic" and a "Medium Gray Charcoal Metallic" for Interior Paints, but no "Dark Charcoal Metallic" . The "Dark Charcoal Metallic" only shows up as an Exterior Color.
Ford Paint Chart for 68 attached.
Bob
Hi Bob looks like I ordered the right paint, but it still looks grey to me. I was told it is the correct paint for 68 black interior. Is it correct?
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bullitt68 : I did check the 1967-73 (as shown in your spray can) Ford Color Charts, and the same "M4J-2083-S" Paint code is shown for all of those years. So, "assuming" (?) that whomever made the paint for Scott Drake used that color code, it should be correct. However, the only way to tell for sure is to find someone who has a 1967-73 with an unfaded Black Charcoal Metallic Interior, or has restored their original with this paint and was satisfied with its match.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Bob
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- the only way to tell for sure is to find someone who has a 1967-73 with an unfaded Black Charcoal Metallic Interior, or has restored their original with this paint and was satisfied with its match.
The "search for the holy grail" was a difficult task too.
It's 50 year old paint, from a car federally mandated to last 10 years for service, from a time period that encouraged buying a new car every 2 years.
Jim
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I have not been happy with the product that you are using because, like you say, it comes out looking not at all like it should.
About 15 years ago I discovered that Duplicolor BCC0427 Brilliant Black Pearl gave an excellent, very close to the original finish. This paint is quite sensitive to temperature. It will blush badly if the temperature is cooler than about 80 degrees F. If you get the surface preparation right and use it on a warm day it will give very satisfying results.
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bullitt68 : I did check the 1967-73 (as shown in your spray can) Ford Color Charts, and the same "M4J-2083-S" Paint code is shown for all of those years. So, "assuming" (?) that whomever made the paint for Scott Drake used that color code, it should be correct. However, the only way to tell for sure is to find someone who has a 1967-73 with an unfaded Black Charcoal Metallic Interior, or has restored their original with this paint and was satisfied with its match.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Bob
Thanks Bob appreciate it. I will continue to investigate
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As has been posted in possibly over a dozen of threads here on this site. Typical practice for both rattle can and spray gun users is to lay down a compatible semi-gloss black base (thin but full coat) with two thin somewhat dry coats of Dark Charcoal metallic as a final coat has served hundreds of not thousands of owners and builders for decades
Just watch for a consistent final coats and finish. Too much will often produce a glossy or even smooth (filling grain in those areas) final look
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As has been posted in possibly over a dozen of threads here on this site. Typical practice for both rattle can and spray gun users is to lay down a compatible semi-gloss black base (thin but full coat) with two thin somewhat dry coats of Dark Charcoal metallic as a final coat has served hundreds of not thousands of owners and builders for decades
Just watch for a consistent final coats and finish. Too much will often produce a glossy or even smooth (filling grain in those areas) final look
Thanks Jeff I followed those instructions. So far I have only painted my dash. I have not seen it in natural daylight yet, so perhaps it will be more to my liking in natural light. When I inspected it with a bright light it looked quite grey, but with low lighting it looks black. What did you think of the photos I posted.
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I have not been happy with the product that you are using because, like you say, it comes out looking not at all like it should.
About 15 years ago I discovered that Duplicolor BCC0427 Brilliant Black Pearl gave an excellent, very close to the original finish. This paint is quite sensitive to temperature. It will blush badly if the temperature is cooler than about 80 degrees F. If you get the surface preparation right and use it on a warm day it will give very satisfying results.
Hi Royce sorry for the delayed response, just getting back to interior stuff again now. Things have changed gain since I made this post originally. I have since decided to repaint my dash and stripped it again. My painter mixed up some paint and gave me a spray out. See attached photos. I am going to use this paint for the metal surfaces, dash, & door panels etc. Are you familiar with this SEM product? Did you use the same dash paint on your rear panels as well? Just curious if this product is a good way to go or should I use the dash paint.
FYI the photos attached were taken in the sunlight showing the comparison between the spray out and the original paint on the steering column parts. I am not sure what the paint would have looked like when new or how much it would have faded or lightened over the past 52 years. What do you think? How close is this spray out compared to how it would have appeared originally or should look.
Thanks
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The "search for the holy grail" was a difficult task too.
It's 50 year old paint, from a car federally mandated to last 10 years for service, from a time period that encouraged buying a new car every 2 years.
Jim
Good points Jim. I just posted a few photos of my original steering column parts. I have no idea how much they have faded over the last 52 years. I had my painter match some paint for me. Not sure how close it is to what the original would have looked like. I am happy to get close
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As has been posted in possibly over a dozen of threads here on this site. Typical practice for both rattle can and spray gun users is to lay down a compatible semi-gloss black base (thin but full coat) with two thin somewhat dry coats of Dark Charcoal metallic as a final coat has served hundreds of not thousands of owners and builders for decades
Just watch for a consistent final coats and finish. Too much will often produce a glossy or even smooth (filling grain in those areas) final look
Hi jeff I am hoping that spraying with a gun will allow me to dust on a nice light coat. I experimented with the rattle can and I was not overly impressed with my skills. Would you recommend specific interior paint for the rear panels or do you think the same paint I use on my dash would be a better choice.
Thanks
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I like to use TCP global for the original Lacquer interior paint. The correct code for the charcoal black poly used on your dash and all the other interior panels is DDL 32586. They no longer have the PPG lacquer available but they make it their house brand lacquer and it is correct. I have been using them for years, Good luck!
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Pictures can sometimes be deceiving but if it looks as good in person as it does on my screen I think you have a good match there.
Hi Royce sorry for the delayed response, just getting back to interior stuff again now. Things have changed gain since I made this post originally. I have since decided to repaint my dash and stripped it again. My painter mixed up some paint and gave me a spray out. See attached photos. I am going to use this paint for the metal surfaces, dash, & door panels etc. Are you familiar with this SEM product? Did you use the same dash paint on your rear panels as well? Just curious if this product is a good way to go or should I use the dash paint.
FYI the photos attached were taken in the sunlight showing the comparison between the spray out and the original paint on the steering column parts. I am not sure what the paint would have looked like when new or how much it would have faded or lightened over the past 52 years. What do you think? How close is this spray out compared to how it would have appeared originally or should look.
Thanks
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Pictures can sometimes be deceiving but if it looks as good in person as it does on my screen I think you have a good match there.
Agreed photos are always difficult to go by as there are so many factors. That is what I used sunlight for reference. I tried to anticipate the fade factor over 52 years as I am sure that the paint must have faded to some degree over time
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Pictures can sometimes be deceiving -
I also agree -
Agreed photos are always difficult to go by as there are so many factors.
Time being the great "equalizer". Colors fade, rust invades, dirt clings. There are a few positives gathered from a picture of a 50 year, plus, old car, notably how erratically assembly line workers sprayed sealer in the engine compartment and undercarriage. It's difficult to determine factory finish tone or shade on what has been subjected to the elements. Remember, cars of that era were designed to have a ten year life span.
Jim
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I also agree -Time being the great "equalizer". Colors fade, rust invades, dirt clings. There are a few positives gathered from a picture of a 50 year, plus, old car, notably how erratically assembly line workers sprayed sealer in the engine compartment and undercarriage. It's difficult to determine factory finish tone or shade on what has been subjected to the elements. Remember, cars of that era were designed to have a ten year life span.
Jim
Yes agreed Jim and a great tribute to the quality of the workmanship of the cars built in the '60's in the USA. All I can do is make my best judgement call at this time and use input from others with experience who have also had to do the same. Since there is no 100% way to match the assembly line correct paint, I would like to get close to what is being accepted and understood to be a reasonable facsimile/next best thing under the circumstances
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- a great tribute to the quality of the workmanship of the cars built in the '60's in the USA.
Careful. Living in Silicon Valley for over (a long time) years, I've met a lot of former Ford Assembly Line Workers (one lives a couple of blocks away) at Mustang Club meetings and car shows. They revealed many attributes of living in the 60's and 70's here (some were hippies). There were way too many workers at the Milpitas plant that went to work "under the influence" (pick your favorite). To Ford's credit, those lasted only 90 days (union rules). A lot of cars got produced in 90 days. Some were good, others required "stitches". At the end of the assembly line, a lot of cars needed rework. That's a fact of life in the Bay Area.
Jim
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Yes agreed Jim and a great tribute to the quality of the workmanship of the cars built in the '60's in the USA.....
Also consider that allot of the workers were ex military and part of the "greatest generation". Many took allot of pride in their work while others might as well been building toasters. Like any worker force it was a mix but compared to today..... well we'll leave that to each of our own interpretation and get back to the thread focus :)
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Careful. Living in Silicon Valley for over (a long time) years, I've met a lot of former Ford Assembly Line Workers (one lives a couple of blocks away) at Mustang Club meetings and car shows. They revealed many attributes of living in the 60's and 70's here (some were hippies). There were way too many workers at the Milpitas plant that went to work "under the influence" (pick your favorite). To Ford's credit, those lasted only 90 days (union rules). A lot of cars got produced in 90 days. Some were good, others required "stitches". At the end of the assembly line, a lot of cars needed rework. That's a fact of life in the Bay Area.
Jim
I can only imagine. I have heard all kinds of crazy stories over the years like for example "a customer heard a rattling inside his door and when they pulled the door panel they found a beer bottle" etc. I am sure that the '60's were colourful times. That would also go a long way explaining inconsistencies between cars made at the same plants. Unfortunately my car was somewhat restored when I acquired it so I was not privy to any interesting anomaly's that might highlight the high times 50 years ago
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Also consider that allot of the workers were ex military and part of the "greatest generation". Many took allot of pride in their work while others might as well been building toasters. Like any worker force it was a mix but compared to today..... well we'll leave that to each of our own interpretation and get back to the thread focus :)
Good point Jeff. For all we know some of these cars could end up lasting 100 years, and that would be a great tribute to the design and manufacturing of those cars, as well as the enthusiasts who helped preserve them, through their passion, which made them a part of our national heritage
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While quality lapses might have been seen from time to time back then; our mission when restoring a car should be to try and match the best quality that the plant was capable of on a good day. Anything else is not productive use of your time.
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While quality lapses might have been seen from time to time back then; our mission when restoring a car should be to try and match the best quality that the plant was capable of on a good day. Anything else is not productive use of your time.
Agreed. That is my plan 100%
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Interior paint update. I did another spray out which is a much better match imo. Original paint steering column parts for reference.
Photo 1 (Outside light. Left new spray out, middle first spray out, right rattle can)
Photo 2 (Inside light. Left first spray out, middle Rattle can, right new spray out)
Photo 3 (Outside light. new spray out)
Photo 4 (Inside light. new spray out)
Photo 5 (Inside light. Left first spray out, middle Rattle can, right new spray out)