ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: RoyceP on March 13, 2023, 02:37:04 PM
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This is an issue that I battle all the time. I read this and the product I use was not in the finals at all. Worth a read:
https://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/threads/results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation.139238/ (https://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/threads/results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation.139238/)
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Pretty amazing effort there. Cant say I have ever seen that much time and thought put in this...very impressive and some new products to try out. Thanks for sharing.
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Thoughts or experiences with "WD-40 Specialist"
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Thoughts or experiences with "WD-40 Specialist"
I have some on order that should be here soon, so I?ll report back with how it looks compared to T9.
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The results are thought provoking. I was thinking about trying a alternative to the T9 like the frog Lube. I will stay away from the WD specialist product because if it has the silicone in it like the WD 40 then it is the bane of auto body men everywhere. The silicone contaminates nearby painted surfaces and causes paint fish eyes if a nearby part is ever repainted. One body man at one of friend body shop would not let a can in the building and would throw a fit if he saw a can because of all the problems it had caused in the past. When used in one place in a building droplets in the air can travel across a room or building and contaminate a part far away. If using on a part or around things that may never be painted then I suppose it will not be a problem like on guns. Automotive applications on the other hand you are asking for problems IMO.
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Living in New England I have been fighting rust and corrosion for a long time. My sheet metal welding skills were developed from bringing back the dead to life. Over close to 30+ years I have had a daily driver test mule in which I have tried different rust/corrosion solutions. There are a number of products I have tried not listed but one I have always considered remarkable is Transtar's 4423 Amber Rustproofing. On my test mule, a 2000 pickup truck I ordered and bought new which I replaced the frame in 2014. The bumpers had rotted through and I replaced them with new OEM pieces. I sprayed the rear of the bumpers with the Transtar product. It still looks the same as the day as when I applied it. It is a brown so I pick where I use it with my older cars but it has passed the real world longevity test for me-one which many others have failed. Bob I don't know if it has silicone in it. I have never heard anyone here mention it.
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I didn?t realize the WD40 product contained silicone and definitely agree it?s not something that you want to be spraying inside a building where any restoration work is being done. That said, if it lasts much longer than T9, then I?m fine with coating the parts in an isolated area such as the back yard.
Looking at the SDS I don?t see any mention of silicone or a silicone compound, but I might be missing something.
https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/specialist/wd-40-specialist-long-term-corrosion-inhibitor-us-ghs.pdf
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Living in New England I have been fighting rust and corrosion for a long time.
I solved my "rust problems" by moving from Massachusetts back to California in 1967 (drove a 66 Mustang "A" code, 4 speed Fastback, 3200 miles). Rust is "illegal" here. Something about the humidity and not willingly parking in the rain helps.
I use WD-40. The "WD" stands for "Water Displacement", the "40" was the attempt that worked (so goes the legend). I was doing several batches of bead blasting and phosphating steel parts from Mustangs (and Volkswagens) for years (see "Phosphating 101" in Processes in this forum for details).
Jim
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The WD40 product also does not dry - stays wet.
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The WD40 product also does not dry - stays wet.
Actually - no. It dries, and no rust. Picture taken Feb 2012 after P&O, the "O" is WD-40. They look the same today (I did four, used two, the other two are on the shelf.)
Jim
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Jim....you used regular WD-40, or the WD-40 Specialist product that was tested?
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A product I have used on bare metal that I find works really great is called Sharkhide Metal Protectant.
Corey
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They aim Sharkhide primarily at aluminum don't they? I was going to try it on some aluminum wheels. I am looking for a good aluminum protectorant-has anyone tried any of the newer ceramic based products?
I use straight WD40 quite a bit as a cleaner and short-term preservative-but as a preservative it does give me any real long-term protection.
BTW: with the Transtar product don't lose track of the name "RUSTPROOFING" - it takes some confidence to put that out there. It is wax type product.
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No, Sharkhide is for pretty much any metal. They specifically say aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, steel, stainless and more. I have had great luck with it.
Corey
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My WD-40 corrosion inhibitor finally arrived, so I gave it a try this afternoon on my spring perches that I just cleaned up. Obviously it will be some time before I can report how well it?s working for me, but I can tell you that it?s MUCH thicker than T-9. Seems to work well spraying from 18? or so away. Even then it leaves a heavy residue that I wiped (most of) off after a half hour. Happy with the appearance right now, we?ll see how it looks after a week or two. Probably best to spray on a rag then wipe down the part on a finished car.
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Contrary to belief regular WD-40 does not have silicone in it. I have used it & the WD-40 long term specialist for years in my shop with no issues of paint contamination. I use the specialist on all bare metal stuff. It has worked better than anything else I have tried. Here?s a quote from the internet if you google does WD-40 contain silicone.
What does WD-40 contain? While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents.
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I found this at Home Depot, good results
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I found this at Home Depot, good results
Thanks
How long have you used it and what has been the amount of usage or exposure the parts and car have seen since?
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How long have you used it and what has been the amount of usage or exposure the parts and car have seen since?
Read reply number 9.
Jim
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Read reply number 9.
Jim
Sorry Jim don't see a reference to the Rustoleum product in reply #9, longevity of the product and so on but maybe I'm missing it so quoted it below. Only a reference to WD-40.
Actually - no. It dries, and no rust. Picture taken Feb 2012 after P&O, the "O" is WD-40. They look the same today (I did four, used two, the other two are on the shelf.)
Jim
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The WD-40 professional stuff is working very well...
https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300038-Specialist-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B00631GWS4/ref=asc_df_B00631GWS4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167145486941&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15253501317102557339&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1021041&hvtargid=pla-314552427749&th=1
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Sorry Jim don't see a reference to the Rustoleum product in reply #9, longevity of the product and so on but maybe I'm missing it so quoted it below. Only a reference to WD-40.
That's right. I've used WD-40 after a phosphate treatment, and on an occasional "bare metal" part, for a couple of decades with excellent results.
Jim
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Rust oleum review, this stuff sprays like water, better have protection under. Hang to dry, no real residue from it , might have a little sheen, only applied to some parts glass bead blasted and dry storage, Hope this helps
Will
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Steering coupler
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I know you have the best of intentions with your reporting and appreciate the effort . With that said first, the topic heading is "preventing corrosion on bare metal" but the parts in the picture in reply #22 and 23 show significant pitted corrosion that has already happened which doesn't help evaluation. Second ,without context like how long parts have been coated or if exposed to humidity or moisture it is hard to determine how good the product works. Third ,regardless of how good the product works the significant pitting would still result in adverse evaluation by enthusiasts or concours judges with not pitted being the standard.
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Haven’t had much success with T-9. The longevity was short in my opinion. When I lived in Western WA I alway had a dehumidifier running that kept humidity at around 38-42%. This helped greatly. Now that I live in AZ humidity isn?t as much of an issue. I have used WD40 for years when I phosphate and have had good results.
Craig