ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Mustang => Topic started by: evantugby on February 11, 2018, 11:23:44 AM
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Gents
Thanks to member's directions here I was able to follow guidance to restore my leaf springs. I blasted them, pressed in new bushings and used Eastwood zinc phosphate for paint. Some pics attached. I'm ready to do the shackles now and wanted to check what color they should be for my kar. Please advise color and method to achieve it.
Thank you.
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shackles are bare steel. use boeshield to protect. i would not blast them, it would change the tone of the metal. btw what finish is on the centering bolts of the springs?? they should not be painted same as the springs.
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Hi carlite65,
Oops, I already blasted my shackles. So should I paint them now to replicate bare metal color? If so, what brand/color?
Also, the leaf spring bolts were painted the same. Guess I can pull those out, clean them off and return them to their natural finish. Good catch!
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Hi carlite65,
Oops, I already blasted my shackles. So should I paint them now to replicate bare metal color? If so, what brand/color?
Also, the leaf spring bolts were painted the same. Guess I can pull those out, clean them off and return them to their natural finish. Good catch!
Your ok with painting in this specific instance because your parts are so pitted they will not look good bare metal. I would use some filler primer on them first to try and make the pits disappear. Eastwood sells a Detail Gray that some use. I typically go to the autoparts store and get a can of stainless steel wheel paint because finish is supposed to be bare steel . The centering bolt in the springs are a not spring steel like the leafs and so are not the same color. The centering bolt is a lighter bare steel (like shackles) color in contrast to the darker spring steel color of the leafs. Remember to go over these painted parts with the boeshield especially the leaf springs. The leafs will move back and forth flexing during use rubbing against each other and through the paint . If left untreated those spots will start to rust the first time they are exposed to moisture whether as rain or humidity in the air.
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Your ok with painting in this specific instance because your parts are so pitted they will not look good bare metal. I would use some filler primer on them first to try and make the pits disappear. Eastwood sells a Detail Gray that some use. I typically go to the autoparts store and get a can of stainless steel wheel paint because finish is supposed to be bare steel . The centering bolt in the springs are a not spring steel like the leafs and so are not the same color. The centering bolt is a lighter bare steel (like shackles) color in contrast to the darker spring steel color of the leafs. Remember to go over these painted parts with the boeshield especially the leaf springs. The leafs will move back and forth flexing during use rubbing against each other and through the paint . If left untreated those spots will start to rust the first time they are exposed to moisture whether as rain or humidity in the air.
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your reply. I do have a can of Eastwood detail gray. I'll hit my shackles with a primer first. I'll also fix the leaf spring bolt to make sure that is correct.
Question 1: is boeshield a micro oil and essential the same as the product I'm using (pictured) called fluid film?
Question 2: do I spray this micro oil over my painted leaf springs?
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Hi Bob,
Thanks for your reply. I do have a can of Eastwood detail gray. I'll hit my shackles with a primer first. I'll also fix the leaf spring bolt to make sure that is correct.
Question 1: is boeshield a micro oil and essential the same as the product I'm using (pictured) called fluid film?
Question 2: do I spray this micro oil over my painted leaf springs?
I know the T9 Boeshield works well out of many that I have tried. I have not used that product you picture and so I have no idea how well it works .
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I know the T9 Boeshield works well out of many that I have tried. I have not used that product you picture and so I have no idea how well it works .
But it's essentially the same thing, correct?
Also, refering to my question above, do you want me to spray boeshield over my painted leaf springs?
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yes. spray them thoroughly. the fluid film is ok but i prefer the boeshield. seems to last longer & not as oily.....just my opinion.
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But it's essentially the same thing, correct?
Also, refering to my question above, do you want me to spray boeshield over my painted leaf springs?
Since I have not used it I will not comment on it. Yes you are coating the painted parts with the T9 Boeshield (typically just referred to as Boeshield) for reasons explained in the previous post.
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Ok, will do! Thank you. And I'll order so boeshield.
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i get my boeshield at a local woodworking supply.
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i get my boeshield at a local woodworking supply.
It is cheapest on line however in a pinch for me at least a lot of bike stores sell it .
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Bass pro carries it as well in the gun section.
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Thanks Gents. I just ordered from amazon.
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I've now cleaned mine with evaporust. What's recommended at this point since they are in good condition? Scotchbrite or wire wheel and then clear?
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I've now cleaned mine with evaporust. What's recommended at this point since they are in good condition? Scotchbrite or wire wheel and then clear?
If I were trying to make them look better I would glass bead them to get all of the remaining rust residue seen in the picture off and then I would put them in a tumbler with stainless steel media.
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agree with bob. i also would not use a wire wheel, leaves scars or not use clearcoat. factory did not use clear so why should you. suggest a good preservative such as Boeshield.
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Any suggestions if I don't have a tumbler or media blaster?
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there are a few folks on here that offer that service. a service wanted ad would be a good start.
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A brass wire wheel will not cause the damage a steel one will on steel. You'll need to l darken the metal back to looking like new steel since the wheel/brush will leave it bright and very shinny
Some gun bluing with some practice and darker coating/spots at the weld locations
Allot depends on the condition of what your starting out with
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A brass wire wheel will not cause the damage a steel one will on steel. You'll need to l darken the metal back to looking like new steel since the wheel/brush will leave it bright and very shinny
Some gun bluing with some practice and darker coating/spots at the weld locations
Allot depends on the condition of what your starting out with
Also if using a brass wire wheel it will leave traces of goldish brass on the metal.
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Also if using a brass wire wheel it will leave traces of goldish brass on the metal.
I find that "goes away" with the use of the steel wool used to apply and work the gun blueing but would be a concern if you were not doing that. :)