ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Interior & Trunk => Topic started by: 68 S Code on December 11, 2011, 10:18:42 PM
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I finally found a decent heater/defroster plenum. The only issue is a small hole the the back side which isn't supposed to be there. Could install it as is because it would be hard to see but wondering is there a way to fix it? I remember reading back in the late eighties that a way to make this sort of cardboard piece to last was to coat it with a few applications of shellac. I would think that this would dramatically change the appearance. Is there a way to clean this material?
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I recently have been using wood glue rubbed into the surface and allowed to dry. Helps IMHO even out the finish as there are often water stains or just light and dark areas as well as the dusty look they get. If you apply a fair amount of glue it also allows you to manipulate the shape a bit so you can correct some issues if need be
Might have some pictures of this somewhere. Might have taken them in preparation for an article here. Will check
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Pics would help if you run across them. Ill try to post what Im starting with.
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I just restored my heater. What do you guys think of the plenum ?
(http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1892.jpg)
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I just restored my heater. What do you guys think of the plenum ?
(http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/DSCF1892.jpg)
It doesn't look like a similar shade of gray (too light) compared to a cardboard original.It is a substantial difference. From the corner i see a shine reflection which the cardboard plenum has a flat sheen. Just my thoughts. Bob
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Original for comparison....
(http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/K_vert/9_27_09/9_27_09%20004.jpg)
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Thanks
It was the closest I could get for now :)
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This is what i am starting with. The second shot shows the hole I need to deal with.
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Posted these before I believe but thought I would again.
Very rare (before they changed to the undercoated looking things) NOS/assembly line part
Rivets have a slightly greenish coating on them.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/Indiviual%20Parts/65HeaterDuctC5ZZ-18471-A.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/Indiviual%20Parts/65HeaterDuct2.jpg)
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Posted these before I believe but thought I would again.
Very rare (before they changed to the undercoated looking things) NOS/assembly line part
Jeff, knowing that you want that part for your 66 it must be killing you that it has a May 67 date. Therefore I am offering to ease your pain by taking it off your hands ;D
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It's almost a guarantee that any discussion involving cardboard heater plenums will end in Jeff showing off his fancy one! ;D ;D
Tim, I don't think San Jose put their date stamps on the front, so he can't use it on the Shelby anyway. :P
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In all my years of parts scrounging and networking with others I have never come across a NOS 65-68 cardboard plenum :'( . Bob
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Thanks friends for the support :o
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So is there a way to get my dirty one to look better? I see some blsack paint on the cable bracket but the shaft off the trap door inside does not seem to have any black paint on it like jeffs NOS unit. The date is stamped on the backside.
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We have a saying over here, that might just work over there............... Nobody likes a smartarse ;D Nice plenum !!!!
I can see I need to go darker.
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Since we are on the subject, what color should the squirrel cage be? I know it isn't seen but I thought maybe since I have the whole thing apart right now I should perhaps paint it the correct color. Right now it is black which I don't know if it is right or if I should care....Also there is a stamp in yellow on the top of my fiberglass case. I can post a picture of it later. I'm not sure what it says exactly but it is the original fiberglass case.
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Also there is a stamp in yellow on the top of my fiberglass case. I can post a picture of it later. I'm not sure what it says exactly but it is the original fiberglass case.
Probably a date code. There was one printed in yellow on mine and it seemed to make sense that it was a date code.
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Since we are on the subject, what color should the squirrel cage be? I know it isn't seen but I thought maybe since I have the whole thing apart right now I should perhaps paint it the correct color. Right now it is black which I don't know if it is right or if I should care....Also there is a stamp in yellow on the top of my fiberglass case. I can post a picture of it later. I'm not sure what it says exactly but it is the original fiberglass case.
Squirrel cage for the heater motor was just bare steel, no paint.
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Jeff you mentioned glue to coat the cardboard plenum. Any recomendations? Also I presume you brush it on not spray. I was thinking if clear model airplane dope would work. i remember building those wooden balsa airplaines back when i was a kid and you would dope the tissue paper over the skeleton. I believe it was also used on the balsa wood of large scale RC airplanes to coat the balsa before painting to seal the wood. Just a thought as I know its clear in color.
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On simple rips where the two surfaces overlap, I use Elmer's Carpenters wood glue, the yellow stuff. Otherwise, almost any epoxy should work. The problem with epoxy is that it dries shiny. To waterproof the plenum, and the water shield use on the LH side behind the 66 instrument cluster, I use 3M ScotchGuard. It is absorbed and leaves no trace. I don't know if it's still available (I got two cans left) but as a water repellant it works great. Another product I'm thinking about using is Krylon 1311 Matte finish, aka flat. It's used on paintings and drawings as a protective covering.
Jim
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Any good white wood glue should work all of the produce needs to be absorbed into the cardboard. Would not even think of using epoxy - too hard to work into the cardboard, can produce a shinny surface (as mentioned) if you don't get it all in, and clean up would be a pain. You can add a little water to the wood glue to help it soak in or to spread it around a little. I coated all of the surface to improve the consistency of the look of the final product. Wipe it clean off of metal surfaces before it dries.
As the cardboard becomes some what flexible with its well soaked (use just enough to make the areas that need work a little plyable, you can used wood box, sticks, drink cups.... in side the duct to push out or form it back to a more original shape if need be. Then just let it dry. Back side (inside) can be reinforced as long as everything stays out of the way of the moving parts (door)
Good luck
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Here's the stamping on mine...No clue what it says, obviously someone didn't stamp it very well 47 years ago...
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l283/shelbee350/Honey%20Gold%20-%20Mine/DSC05506.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l283/shelbee350/Honey%20Gold%20-%20Mine/DSC05507.jpg)
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Would you recommend washing it down with a damp sponge or rag first to get some of the dirt impurities out of the cardboard? Grungy from sitting on a garage floor or a dirty car for decades.
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I use "Goof-Off" sparingly along with paint thinner as they evaporate quickly after the crud comes off. Basically anything that works without damaging a paper fiber constructed item.
Jim
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Thanks for the tip.
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Still need to clean the plenum per the suggestion but i found some wood glue (white) which is supposed to dry transparent. I'm thinking this should be the glue Jeff spoke of. You mentioned applying it with popsicle sticks? Thinning it down with water? Am I to assume one coat it enough or are we talking multiple coats?
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Still need to clean the plenum per the suggestion but i found some wood glue (white) which is supposed to dry transparent. I'm thinking this should be the glue Jeff spoke of. You mentioned applying it with popsicle sticks? Thinning it down with water? Am I to assume one coat it enough or are we talking multiple coats?
Used a cheap 1" paint brush to move the glue into the surface and my finger in some areas/corners. Only one coat since if left on top of the cardboard it will produce a shinny smooth surface and after the first coat it will not absorb any additional glue.
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Jeff thanks. You're right after the first coat it would just build up and thats not the point. May give it a try friday.
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Jeff thanks. You're right after the first coat it would just build up and thats not the point. May give it a try friday.
At first smear/apply it to the back side where it will not be seen to get the feel for the stuff. Should be fun but a bit messy
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At this point i will try cleaning it with some thinner. Im looking for a damaged donar plenum to practice on so I dont go right to the good one. Regretfully I had a bad which I threw out last year. Big mistake. Could have come in handy to make the patch and practice on.
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Does this count as one of the longest dates between thread begin and latest reply?
On the green-ish tint to the rivets . . .
Would that be just a service issue color or should I tint my restored original plenum rivets too?
[I fear so few judges know about the tint they just wouldn't get it.]
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Not that it is relevant, but I gave up after searching for a long time for an original in good shape, so i tarted up a repop as best I could. If I find a good original or NOS/Unicorn I will swap it out.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/16/4775-130222155420-169521288.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/16/4775-130222194002-169611202.jpeg)
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Box looks like a very nice detailing however it still looks of plastic material in the picture. Contact me next week as I am leaving for INDY show. I am sure that I have a very nice but not perfect plenum that you could work over to make acceptable for show.
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Box looks like a very nice detailing however it still looks of plastic material in the picture. Contact me next week as I am leaving for INDY show. I am sure that I have a very nice but not perfect plenum that you could work over to make acceptable for show.
Thanks Bob, FYI it does look better in person, but it is very hard to get the cardboard texture to look right with paint, but a correct one would be preferred, appreciate it
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As a restoration step on the plenum, spray it with a couple of coats of Scotch Guard, both inside and out. Spray the heater ducts at the radio grill as well. Scotch Guard repels moisture.
Jim
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As a restoration step on the plenum, spray it with a couple of coats of Scotch Guard, both inside and out. Spray the heater ducts at the radio grill as well. Scotch Guard repels moisture.
Jim
Great idea Jim
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It's a good effort, originals in nice condition are hard to find.
The date ink stamp characters are larger than I'm used to seeing. They are usually spaced closer also.
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It's a good effort, originals in nice condition are hard to find.
The date ink stamp characters are larger than I'm used to seeing. They are usually spaced closer also.
Thanks it's been so long since I did it that I can't recall what I based the font on when I had the stamp made. Do you know the original dimensions?
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Thanks it's been so long since I did it that I can't recall what I based the font on when I had the stamp made. Do you know the original dimensions?
Don't have them handy, maybe someone else does? I'd say at least half the size of what's shown in the pic, maybe something like .75" high characters, total width about 1.5"
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Don't have them handy, maybe someone else does? I'd say at least half the size of what's shown in the pic, maybe something like .75" high characters, total width about 1.5"
Thanks for pointing that out. If I do end up installing this unit for some reason, I can at least have the right stamp dimensions as a consolation prize lol
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Thanks it's been so long since I did it that I can't recall what I based the font on when I had the stamp made. Do you know the original dimensions?
I'll try and remember to check tomorrow. Likely its an older font which may not be available today so you may want to redraw the letters and numbers to get it right. Don't recall if I've reproduced this one in the past but will check ad mentioned
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I am planning on painting all my rivets a silver color, any comments or suggestions?
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I am planning on painting all my rivets a silver color, any comments or suggestions?
I prefer to use a Dremel tool with a wire brush to clean up the rivet heads, maybe even get them shiny. Then mask the surrounding area and spray paint with a semi-gloss clear paint, Krylon available at Home Depot for example. Then do the Scotch Guard trick on the housing.
Jim
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I am planning on painting all my rivets a silver color, any comments or suggestions?
They weren't originally silver looking but if your going that route I would try and clean them well without touching the cardboard then use a brush. Of course if you use clear it may or likely yellow over time. Given the protective storage most of our cars see you might get my oiling or applying a protective coating over the painted surface if you choose to