ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: 1965GTFB on October 07, 2013, 02:26:04 PM
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Putting factory AC in a non-AC car on a 67. Need to drill out the holes in the radiator support for the AC hoses. The spot is easy to find due to the factory dimples. What size are the holes supposed to be? I assmue it ends up being one big oval hole after drilling the two spots?
Also I want to drill all the holes while the engine is out have I missed any from the list below:
-All the holes for AC & heater lines are done.
-Holes for Vac can done.
-Holes for water valve bracket done.
-Holes for line through rad support to be done when I get an answer to size.
Any others I have missed?
Thanks
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You need a 1.5" hole saw. There is also a J hook to the right of the water valve. Holes for evaporator box through fire wall?
Marty
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Consider a Greenlee chassis punch. You get a better hole and it's close to the original punched version. They are not cheap, but e-bay is a good source.
Jim
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Here are some pictures. The last one is a car without AC. Note that between the horn and hood support there are two vertical cuts or indentations in the steel. This is the basis for the punch that Jim referred to. Looks to me like the distance between the "cuts" is the diameter of the hole saw or punch that you will need to apply at the top and bottom of the "cuts". I would think it reasonable that the center line of the holes would line up with the end of the punch. I can measure this later if you need it since I happen to have one in the shop right now.
First pic 7F01C187xxx
Following pics 7F01C129xxx
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For completeness, here are some shots of the firewall and related area in terms of holes.
I have seen a variation in where the vacuum lines penetrate the firewall. The ones here are "by the book" in terms of the Ford drawings available from Osborn. I have seen others that are much closer to the master cylinder.
Pics from 7F01?. VIN and doors gone. Sheetmetal all stamped between Oct 10 and 20.
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Good one John I forgot the condensate line. :)
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Consider a Greenlee chassis punch. You get a better hole and it's close to the original punched version. They are not cheap, but e-bay is a good source.
Jim
Jim 67-68's were cut with a hole saw on the assembly line. the two vertical lines were punched when the core support was manufactured.
Marty