ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Suspension => Topic started by: livetoride60 on November 25, 2014, 01:38:18 AM
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I was wondering if anyone has some good ways to restore disc rotors? (65 in this case). They are still within spec, but wondering things like if it's ok use the normal process: Evaporust, blast, finish, etc. I've read about hydrogen embrittlement being a problem for critical parts for example, like when treating with phosphoric acid. They have mild rust everywhere except the pad contact surface.
Assume I'd have to have them turned after restoring, to leave a good contact surface as the last step.
Thanks,
Rich
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Evapo rust is what I would start with. Rinse off good, then apply a protectant to the non-pad surface.
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Any recommendations on protectant? I've become a fan of Boeshield, but wondering if it will hold up to the heat, like a high heat paint might.
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Shark-hide might be better for this, but I haven't used it on disc rotors. The key to most of these products is making sure the surface is clean and all moisture removed. I use a hand held MAP gas torch to remove the moisture, can actually see it coming off.
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Thanks Charles. I use a heat gun on full heat before I Boeshield. However if you're using a gas torch, that may not be hot enough.
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Thanks Charles. I use a heat gun on full heat before I Boeshield. However if you're using a gas torch, that may not be hot enough.
I have never seen the water wick out of the metal with a heat gun on full or otherwise like it does when you put a torch on the same thing ;) .
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I have never seen the water wick out of the metal with a heat gun on full or otherwise like it does when you put a torch on the same thing ;) .
Good to know!
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I have actually been doing them a little different. First need to clean them and bead blast them really really good to remove all corrosion and dirt and oil. Then phosphating them (magnesium phosphate) and then tumble them to clean it up and then cut the rotor surfaces. A light coat of BoeShield would be good but not really intended for a daily driver. End result seems to hold up great as I have a set I have done on a car a few years ago that still look perfect. Done the same with drum brakes.
Some pictures:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z213/azscj/DSCN7683_zpsf89ce1ca.jpg)
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z213/azscj/DSCN7686_zpse42f5c71.jpg)
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I have actually been doing them a little different. First need to clean them and bead blast them really really good to remove all corrosion and dirt and oil. Then phosphating them (magnesium phosphate) and then tumble them to clean it up and then cut the rotor surfaces. A light coat of BoeShield would be good but not really intended for a daily driver. End result seems to hold up great as I have a set I have done on a car a few years ago that still look perfect. Done the same with drum brakes.
Looks good Marcus
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I have actually been doing them a little different. First need to clean them and bead blast them really really good to remove all corrosion and dirt and oil. Then phosphating them (magnesium phosphate) and then tumble them to clean it up and then cut the rotor surfaces. A light coat of BoeShield would be good but not really intended for a daily driver. End result seems to hold up great as I have a set I have done on a car a few years ago that still look perfect. Done the same with drum brakes.
Look great Marcus. Were the ones that held up so well BoeShield coated, and if so have you reapplied? Also, is the car driven? That's great if they still look that good after several years.
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Yes these were BoeShield coated. That's a good product. And to be fair this is a trailer queen so not driven at all. But still holds up well.
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Best way I've found to remove rust is having it baked & blasted, preferably by an engine rebuilder that uses stainless shot.
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Do you break down the hub from the rotor when you blast?
Take the bearing races out?
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Do you break down the hub from the rotor when you blast?
Take the bearing races out?
That would be best.
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Yes....I take it completely apart otherwise you can't clean it perfect. Just press it apart and remove the bearing races since you should replace the bearings anyway.
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Also when you take it apart you can machine the top surface and sides of the hub like original too. There should be a contrast between the rotor hat and the hub. You can't do it properly when the studs are in the way.
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Yep...agree with that Bob. Those extra cuts would really make it look outstanding.
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That's how I do it as well.
Nice!
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Yep...agree with that Bob. Those extra cuts would really make it look outstanding.
It is a lot of extra work as you know Marcus and for those reading the machining on the hub needs to be protected or it will flash rust as will the edge of the rotor.