Author Topic: Striker plate screw removal  (Read 10983 times)

Offline Bob Zink

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Striker plate screw removal
« on: April 06, 2015, 06:19:07 PM »
I want to bead blast and remove the paint on my striker plates, but the screws are stuck due to the catalyzed hardened paint. 

Would an impact driver be too aggressive to use for this?  Anyone know of a trick to loosen these large phillips screws? 

Thanks.   

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2015, 07:16:42 PM »
The best tool I have found for MULTIPLE jobs such as this is an Air chisel 3/8" socket driver made by SnapOn, & using a 3/4 inch boxed wrench, a #1 phillips 3/8" driver socket, an air chisel while using a feathered trigger @ low speed, a light hammering action...using the wrench it twists the screw right out without damaging the screw or "pounding" on the body.

https://store.snapon.com/Socket-Adaptors-Socket-Adaptor-Air-Hammer-3-8-sq-dr--P636879.aspx

Impact drivers seem to fail at doing this or at least I have tried them before and felt it was causing more damage than good.

Richard
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

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Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2015, 07:17:06 PM »
I've often used the manual impact tools with a big hammer.

Often its repetitive striking, rather than one big hit, that loosens them up

Jeff Speegle

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Offline jwc66k

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2015, 08:27:51 PM »
A word of warning, the angle of your hand gripping the impact driver can be in the way of the hammer, especially your thumb. It hurts. I used to carry mine while "searching" junk yards, along with a 2 1/2 pound sledge hammer. I was looking for specific date codes for replacement strikers that were beyond repair. When you get yours off the car, set it striker down on an anvil and use a heavy duty drift to re-stake the bent retainers on the back. File any nicks in the striker itself, some hammering helps too. You should not have any problem with the acid in the plating tank on the insulation. Don't forget to get the spacers gold zinc plated (for 64-66) too, 67 on are clear zinc.
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline Bob Zink

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2015, 09:42:49 PM »
Thanks guys.  I will stop at Harbor Freight and see if they have a manual impact driver. 

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2015, 09:56:46 PM »
Thanks guys.  I will stop at Harbor Freight and see if they have a manual impact driver.

They should ---- that's where my posted picture came from and where I got my last one  ::)
Jeff Speegle

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Offline Mike_B_SVT

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2015, 04:31:02 PM »
Have you tried using the proper tool first?  The striker plate screws use a Pozi-drive style head, not phillips.  There is a difference in the angle / the way the bit "bites" in the screw head.

I believe a Pozi size #4 is the right size.  There are some Pozi drive bits that you can get in one of the Harbor Freight bit kits, and I think the largest is a #3 size.  That is what I used, but I recall it being a bit smaller than what I should have been using - but it was all I could find at the time. 

And where I was unable to remove the screws with a phillips bit and my ratchet, with the Pozi bit and the same ratchet I was able to whip those screws out with no problem!
...of course an impact driver will come in handy for other things too :-)
« Last Edit: April 07, 2015, 04:34:39 PM by Mike_B_SVT »
Mike B.

2003 Mustang Cobra Convertible
1 of 354 in Sonic Blue

1970 Cougar Eliminator (Competition Gold / Black Decor Interior), 428SCJ, Ram-Air, 4-speed w/ Hurst shifter
Built: Dearborn, Oct 6th, 1969
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Offline rodster

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2015, 08:42:10 PM »
Have you tried using the proper tool first?  The striker plate screws use a Pozi-drive style head, not phillips.  ............
.
.
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I learn something every day!  Thanks for passing that along.  Another tool for the toolbox.  ;)
1965 Dearborn Mustang Coupe
Raven Black - Palomino Pony
1967 Dearborn Mustang Conv.
Wimbeldon White - Red
1984 SVO - 2A

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #8 on: April 07, 2015, 08:55:40 PM »
Have you tried using the proper tool first?  The striker plate screws use a Pozi-drive style head, not phillips.  There is a difference in the angle / the way the bit "bites" in the screw head.

Have used these in the hand impact tool in the past successfully. Just the steady tapping unfrozen the screws
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline ChrisV289

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #9 on: April 07, 2015, 11:51:58 PM »
After you remove them, I would maybe try to strip them with aircraft stripper rather than blast.  Might have some of the original metal finish underneath. 
Chris
1965 Honey Gold Fastback (SJ 10/29/64)
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Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #10 on: April 08, 2015, 12:14:31 AM »
Have you tried using the proper tool first?  The striker plate screws use a Pozi-drive style head, not phillips.  There is a difference in the angle / the way the bit "bites" in the screw head.

I believe a Pozi size #4 is the right size.  There are some Pozi drive bits that you can get in one of the Harbor Freight bit kits, and I think the largest is a #3 size.  That is what I used, but I recall it being a bit smaller than what I should have been using - but it was all I could find at the time. 

And where I was unable to remove the screws with a phillips bit and my ratchet, with the Pozi bit and the same ratchet I was able to whip those screws out with no problem!
...of course an impact driver will come in handy for other things too :-)
My Snap on pozi drive screw driver (one of the few snap on tools I have   ;D )has a hex head on the shaft so you can use a wrench to help turn.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline Toploader

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #11 on: April 08, 2015, 03:21:45 PM »
Pozidriv heads are marked with an X for easy identification.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2015, 03:24:43 PM by Toploader »
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Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #12 on: April 08, 2015, 04:30:34 PM »
Posi-Driver & Hand held impacts are what I always used "back in the day" too! I also have an old crank handle drill that my grandpa used to use! PLEASE!  Hand me that cordless drill any day! For me, that is what I now think of my hand held impact driver...It basically has been obsoleted from use. It still is a real nice backup when you are away from compressed air though. When I took my striker plates off last year, rather than bring the air hammer home from work I grabbed the trusty "old hand-held" and gave it a couple firm swings...NOTHING, I tapped several more hits while turning it like you are supposed to and then I stopped. I realized I didn't HAVE to do that the "old way" anymore! Next day, I brought the aforementioned Snap-On attachment and the air hammer home. 10 seconds later, one was off, then both were off. No swinging and super-easy! Like a hot knife through warm butter! To me, it really felt archaic to swing the hammer so hard so much, watching the metal jouncing...IMHO, I swear by that air chisel attachment...once you've use it...you'll pretty much NEVER want to use the "old stand by" if you can possibly help it. It works on so many more things than just these screws. It works on rusty bolts, shaking the rust from the threads while turning. It works on drain plugs and differential fill plugs that are sometimes rusty or damaged from other "Hammer-Techs" Trust me, the old "IF all else fails, GET A BIGGER HAMMER" line is the worst idea EVER!!!! I REALLY mean that! You WILL beat the crap out of your pillar post going that route if these screws are REALLY stuck and/or RUSTY!!!! It truly is worth the investment. (NO, I do not SELL Snap-On tools for a living, I earn a living with them though)
« Last Edit: April 09, 2015, 07:56:22 AM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline Brian Conway

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #13 on: April 08, 2015, 06:38:43 PM »
This one is on my 65 car.  Different style post and date method than the one posted by Bob ?
5RO9A GT  4 Spd Built 5/29/65
9TO2R SCJ 4 Spd Built 9/19/68
Owner Driver Mechanic
San Diego, Ca.

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Striker plate screw removal
« Reply #14 on: April 08, 2015, 07:10:43 PM »
This one is on my 65 car.  Different style post and date method than the one posted by Bob ?

His picture is of a 69-70 it seems so it would be an oval rather than a round post and end "cap"
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)