1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year > 1967 Mustang

67 Select-Aire Vacuum Hoses, Routing, Markings & Connections

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preaction:
I used a mityvac to test the actuators to verify they worked before installation to save me from going in there after all is installed.  :)  Also Im just about to refill with R-12 for the first time and see if it runs cold.

67gtasanjose:

--- Quote from: preaction on May 02, 2016, 11:17:24 PM ---I used a mityvac to test the actuators to verify they worked before installation to save me from going in there after all is installed.  :) 

--- End quote ---

Good point. This is how I tested all of mine. Motorcraft replacement actuators that are "similar" are available. Search "Motorcraft YH-61" to locate them. Current pricing begins in the lower to mid $40 range each. A little work may be required to make them look anything like original though.

The two actuators mounted to the AC/Defroster Diffuser and the Heater/AC selection modes are burried pretty deeply into the car. (you cannot even see them from under the dash looking for them). The other two are easily accessed if ever needed to replace. (total of 4 actuators used plus the heater shut-off valve & shut off valve switch)  I might be adapting a couple of the NEW actuators into my final assembly. I think I would rather have a few "new" ones hidden up there than having either of those hard to reach ones "fail" shortly afterwards. I suppose if I was building a Thoroghbred example instead of an Occasional Driver, the better choice would be using the "tested good", date correct originals anyways. For me, I think "peace of mind" is worth the compromise.

I also vacuum tested my original hoses & heater valve cut-off switch. My heater cut-off switch, C6OZ-18C311-A, checked bad. NOS ones are occasionally available and reproductions are out there too. Most, if not all of the reproductions do not include the mounting bracket. I ordered a NOS one up (with bracket) and am awaiting it's arival for testing all components plugged together, re-using as much of my original "striped" hoses as possible. Both of my original hoses that went through the firewall (purple stripe & no stripe) to underhood connections "failed" the vacuum test. I cannot SEE the holes but they do not hold vacuum.

I have a NOS Motorcraft Heater control valve I bought several years ago that I was planning on using. My original is long-gone. Maybe if somebody could post a picture or two of an original assembly line valve & bracket here, it might help me or others with choosing a good replacement part.

 

ruppstang:
I test the actuators by manually depressing the diaphragm then pressing my finger over the nipple, if the diaphragm expands there is a leak. Low tech but it works.
Here is a picture of a unrestored early 67 heater control valve.
Marty   

67gtasanjose:

--- Quote from: ruppstang on May 03, 2016, 09:24:06 AM ---I test the actuators by manually depressing the diaphragm then pressing my finger over the nipple, if the diaphragm expands there is a leak. Low tech but it works.
Here is a picture of a unrestored early 67 heater control valve.
Marty   

--- End quote ---

Thanks Marty for the picture of the Assemblyline valve. I know it has been pictured in other threads too but nice to have it tied in directly here.

As far as "testing" actuators, I agree with the manual way of testing them as a good way of finding "already defective" ones. This is a fairly good basic practice (I did this too initially) One principle comes to mind though...These actuators can be 50 years old. A "Mighty-Vac" test pushes them beyond the limits of an engines manifold vacuum (usually under 20 inches Hg.), potentially taking an "at risk", maybe dry & brittle actuator diaphragm and possibly helping it along into a failure. A "NEW" or extremely well preserved original will easily take the over 20 inches Hg. the pump can produce. To me, this is kind of like the Radiator Testing I used to do back in the day...If a radiator held 20-lbs. air pressure during a shop leak test (submerged under water tank), that radiator was much less likely to fail within a year than one tested at radiator cap pressure. (say a 15 lbs. test)

Without trying to sound like a know-it-all...A basic test is always a good start but a fully functioning test with all hoses in place, all switches connected...basically EVERYTHING connected, performing a "gauged" bench test could save a lot of frustration later (say once everything is installed in the car). For example, I did a basic test my vacuum switch for the heater control valve. It passed. When I bolted it to the case and began testing things with hoses connected to the main selector switch & all actuators, that is when it all seemed to go to crap. (failure after failure) Still, the actuators are all good, none have failed yet, even with a "fully pumped" Mighty-Vac...but several other items are testing bad. It's probably worth a little extra time IMHO. It sure was for me.

67gtasanjose:
Information FORD supplied in their "Service Training" vacuum diagram book. It shows the early style reservoir like what is found on my 11/2/66 built San Jose example. 4th image is of the "later" version where the hoses are up higher. Colored makes it easier to see, connection points are the same.

NOTE: Tilt steering column connection on SOME examples with Select-Aire have been found "T"d into the "black" hose a few inches inside of the cowl under dash (or the "no stripe hose"). OTHER examples, or later '67 examples more often times have a 2nd canister mounted under the battery tray. (the updated version supplied a larger, more reliable 1/4" supply to the tilt wheel system that was much better vacuum supply than the earlier 1/8" version with the underdash connection)
Please also understand, this note about a Tilt-away connection under dash is based upon extensive research of original examples and Ford documentation done to date and discussed within other threads at this site. Try the search feature for any further updates or details within the (those) other thread(s).

I'll try and supply a better image of my original hoses after I get them cleaned up. MAYBE somebody knows somebody who knows somebody who makes up such hoses so that MAYBE we can get somebody to make us up some good quality reproductions (to obsolete those crappy-looking ones they are selling now  :( >:(

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