Topic: 68 Steering Box Identification

[bullitt68]

Curious if this could be the correct steering box for my car, Build date June 5, 1968 San Jose Car

[krelboyne]

May 3, 1968. Power steering 16:1. Acceptable match to me.

[bullitt68]

May 3, 1968. Power steering 16:1. Acceptable match to me.

Great thanks. I have no idea how to decode that tag. Any explanations?

[Bob Gaines]

Better plan on having the steering box rebuilt . A big mistake some make especially during restoration. After 50 years the grease is the constancy if your lucky of play doh and typically rock candy. With no lubricant to speak of the bearings wear out and it gets loose inside. You would not believe the difference a fresh box and new or refurbished idler arm makes on these cars. Forget the rack and pinion conversions with fresh OEM installed IMO.

[Bob Gaines]

Great thanks. I have no idea how to decode that tag. Any explanations?

The Mustang and Cougar Tagbook 65-73 models by Kevin Marti . Most likely sold by all major Mustang Parts vendors.

[bullitt68]

Better plan on having the steering box rebuilt . A big mistake some make especially during restoration. After 50 years the grease is the constancy if your lucky of play doh and typically rock candy. With no lubricant to speak of the bearings wear out and it gets loose inside. You would not believe the difference a fresh box and new or refurbished idler arm makes on these cars. Forget the rack and pinion conversions with fresh OEM installed IMO.

Thanks Bob. Yes that is the plan. The box will be getting rebuilt as soon as I finish the box and exterior parts detailing. There is a local guy here who does good work and has been doing it for years. I will get the Ram Cylinder and Power valve done at the same time. Do you think this work should be done by a recognized concours restorer or do you think a local guy can do an adequate job if I make sure that the finishes are correct. I don't think that my ram cylinder is original as it does not appear to have any markings or part numbers on it. My understanding is that it should be a natural metal finish. I believe that the power valve is original as it is a Bendix unit. I don't think there are any part numbers or dates codes on that unit and I believe that it should also have a bare metal finish. As for the hoses I assume that I can order correct ones somewhere. I will have to post the tag from my power steering canister to confirm if that is correct for my car and will also restore that as well

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob. Yes that is the plan. The box will be getting rebuilt as soon as I finish the box and exterior parts detailing. There is a local guy here who does good work and has been doing it for years. I will get the Ram Cylinder and Power valve done at the same time. Do you think this work should be done by a recognized concours restorer or do you think a local guy can do an adequate job if I make sure that the finishes are correct. I don't think that my ram cylinder is original as it does not appear to have any markings or part numbers on it. My understanding is that it should be a natural metal finish. I believe that the power valve is original as it is a Bendix unit. I don't think there are any part numbers or dates codes on that unit and I believe that it should also have a bare metal finish. As for the hoses I assume that I can order correct ones somewhere. I will have to post the tag from my power steering canister to confirm if that is correct for my car and will also restore that as well

With that criteria I think they can be . Natural finish on the control valve ,ram etc.. The rams do have date codes .The date code for the control valve is typically on the removable aluminum cap. 

[bullitt68]

The Mustang and Cougar Tagbook 65-73 models by Kevin Marti . Most likely sold by all major Mustang Parts vendors.

Thanks Bob I will order that book

[bullitt68]

With that criteria I think they can be . Natural finish on the control valve ,ram etc.. The rams do have date codes .The date code for the control valve is typically on the removable aluminum cap.

Thanks Bob. Who would you suggest for rebuilding Brake Booster, Master Cylinder, Ram & Control valve. FYI I also don't have the original steering linkage as all of mine have grease fittings. How about the pitman arm and Idler arm. Do these look original. Also do you suggest rebuilding or replacing the rag joint.

Thanks for all your help it is greatly appreciated

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob. Who would you suggest for rebuilding Brake Booster, Master Cylinder, Ram & Control valve. FYI I also don't have the original steering linkage as all of mine have grease fittings. How about the pitman arm and Idler arm. Do these look original. Also do you suggest rebuilding or replacing the rag joint.

Thanks for all your help it is greatly appreciated

Booster Dewey for the booster,The ram man for master (it is not worth rebuilding unless a correct one) ,Rodes restoration for ram and control valve.These are just a few of the more popular ones . There are others that are just as good. Pitman is original but idler is some kind of auto parts store substitute. Original type power steering idler arms are hard to come by.  Cosmetically restoring the finish on the rag joint is most likely all that is needed.

[bullitt68]

Booster Dewey for the booster,The ram man for master (it is not worth rebuilding unless a correct one) ,Rodes restoration for ram and control valve.These are just a few of the more popular ones . There are others that are just as good. Pitman is original but idler is some kind of auto parts store substitute. Original type power steering idler arms are hard to come by.  Cosmetically restoring the finish on the rag joint is most likely all that is needed.

Thanks Bob. So the Booster is worth rebuilding then? Sounds like I should replace the master cylinder. How about the Ram It does not have any stampings on it that I can find. I guess I should also try to find a correct Idler arm. Should I use the Idler I have if I cant find a correct one. I will look into restoring the rag joint. IS there any info on the restoration process for the rag joint

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob. So the Booster is worth rebuilding then? Sounds like I should replace the master cylinder. How about the Ram It does not have any stampings on it that I can find. I guess I should also try to find a correct Idler arm. Should I use the Idler I have if I cant find a correct one. I will look into restoring the rag joint. IS there any info on the restoration process for the rag joint

I couldn't say if your booster is worth rebuilding without seeing it. If pictures are here someplace please help me find them because I have missed them or don't remember seeing them. Same goes for the master cylinder. No markings on a correct style ram is better then the wrong markings on a correct style ram typically,of course all things being equal like correct finish etc. That idler arm style is one of the more out of place looking ones to have so I would look for something better.  I think Richard cosmetically restored his rag joint . Maybe a search of threads is in order.

[bullitt68]

I couldn't say if your booster is worth rebuilding without seeing it. If pictures are here someplace please help me find them because I have missed them or don't remember seeing them. Same goes for the master cylinder. No markings on a correct style ram is better then the wrong markings on a correct style ram typically,of course all things being equal like correct finish etc. That idler arm style is one of the more out of place looking ones to have so I would look for something better.  I think Richard cosmetically restored his rag joint . Maybe a search of threads is in order.

Thanks Bob here are some quick photos for reference. Question is now since most of the parts have been confirmed as not original or correct date, is what parts should I use and restore and which parts should be replaced

[Bob Gaines]

The Master is aftermarket and not worth rebuilding. The cap is 70 and later style with the vent on top. The booster looks to be usable to be rebuilt.

[bullitt68]

The Master is aftermarket and not worth rebuilding. The cap is 70 and later style with the vent on top. The booster looks to be usable to be rebuilt.

Great thanks Bob. Which parts rom the list below should I consider replacing and which ones are worth restoring

Control Valve (Could be original)
Ram (No part number or dates found)
Rag Joint (Could be original)
Pitman Arm (Could be original)
Idler Arm (Not original)
All steering Linkage, tie rods etc (Replacement with grease fittings)
Steering Box (Could be original)
8 Track/Radio (Could be original, but has been converted to AM/FM)
Exhaust Tips (Not original)
Bell Housing C6OA 6884D (Wrong Date Code) 8K15
Transmission RUG AD 013588 (Wrong Date Code) C8AR 7008 D
Engine Block C7ME-A (No Vin dated 4 months before my build) 8 A 17
Heads (Not original)
Alternator (Unknown)
Starter (American Motors)
Distributor 12127 (Wrong Date) C7AF/9HT2
Carb (Not original)
Diff  C5AW 4668 C (Wrong Date) 9 inch 0 K 21
Water Pump C6AE 8505 B (wrong date)
Radiator (No Markings)