Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Suspension
65-66 LCA's later service parts NOS
CharlesTurner:
Yes, that can all be replaced and leave the spot welded bracket on the control arm. I usually remove all of that to restore a control arm. Tumble the arm and lower retainer, get the plate zinc plated and then have the ball joint with a new boot riveted on.
67gtasanjose:
--- Quote from: Maksim27 on December 09, 2022, 07:33:01 PM ---Guys I have a pair of NOS later service parts LCA's that I want to restore to Assembly Line Correct...
... I did find extra spot welds on the LCA's and not sure if that could be a point deduction or not concours enough... I know that Factory and early NOS service parts LCAs had only 2 Spot welds. My used later LCA's also have 2 spot welds.... Does it really matter if it is 4 spot welds on each arm or not really a major concern for correctness.
...I need to know before sending the LCA's off to Marcus for riveting them... I can send but looking for suggestions.
--- End quote ---
Can you disguise the extra spot welds on the Service Part to match original? Even if it requires disassembly and reassembly, it could be another path to go down.
Bossbill:
The die to re-thread the stud is fairly inexpensive. (edit: My 67 is 9/16-18 NF; I think 65-70 are all the same; $11 on Amazon)
I don't think the welded on lower plate is there for any other reason but to keep all the individual parts lined up prior to riveting. It's not structural. When you send these in for re-rivit use bolts to keep things aligned.
I cut out the spot welds on the top since this is much thinner metal than the bottom. I then filled the holes with the MIG, put a new crater in there and finished up with blueing (or a torch if you prefer).
I've filled gouges and holes by using the MIG and grinding the repair down with a small high speed sanding disc. You can also fill UCA gouges from chiseling this way. You can't see them later.
I do so hate messing with control arms and if there is a next time I will farm it out or buy re-pops and take the point hit.
Maksim27:
I was thinking to purchase the new ball joints that is in the link and just use the stud, underside grease cup, dust boot... The dust boot does seem to be correct as back then the original dust boot had a plastic or metal ring depending on supplier. I do have reproduction metal ring dust boots also. My grease cup does show pitting and that's why I'm thinking of replacing it. My stud like I mentioned has nicks on the top of the thread...Maybe MIG weld it, but easier to just change the stud for a new stud.
So basically when I purchase the new ball Joint, I'll just pry the 3 tabs and remove the parts...I'll only keep the welded bracket, and put the new parts with the ball joint and crimp back those 3 tab. Do you guys think that can work... The new ball joint looks the same as the old ball joint... Probably the same service supplier from back in the 60s even if they are rebranded. Just my guess.
I already purchased correct retainer ring and gasket from CJs... Just need to remove the rivets and hopefully the set-up will work...Then ship to Marcus for riveting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192698949207?hash=item2cddc09e57:g:l9MAAOxyxpxQ8AJa&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4CHxAYVCS22PXV6xczq3ftKGyW2d2VRmF1h1R2F9widxfhvamqOHubHi%2BNnWHnkkwGx7fYqUAOGX%2BaTcyoHYngkiK1ZnAJe0NgSRo5%2FmLwOl4MwsmQIZu8N6M2n9yO6yef35z3u4Wxq5H2aQi6yCegWcyljUkFwmH00ntTq%2BUeYb1pi5kRrmh6dZcApc6qoUyXCLg%2FeJILW8jXMeLpn5PJyNqE7hGibIAuRoQelhuwnOaKX08rn74o8j2abzBNKSFqxuDTO6hPUzrqsAfn5zF%2FPE1aV%2BJiANCp5p2JkmY6CY%7Ctkp%3ABFBMtueYhKNh
Maksim27:
Is there a way to pry off the three tabs while the ball joint is spot welded to the LCA, as I removed the rivets on both control arms. I was thinking of cleaning out the Factory NOS grease, so I can apply new grease when the LCA's get finished getting restored. Kind a seems impossible to pry the three tabs from my observation. Only one center outer tab can probably be pried, but not sure that will allow for me to remove the lower ball joint.
Another way I was thinking of using ISP alcohol to pour it inside, but not sure that will clean it as the ball joint is tight, but does have cut grooves.
Or just leave the grease alone in the ball joint and not do anything...Can that effect anything if I use new dark purple Motorcraft grease through the zerk with a grease gun.
FYI: I removed the black paint from the ball joint area to get a better observation... Kind a has that dip look...I might remove all the paint as I have paint scratches and paint missing... But then again I might just keep the paint as I'm doing a driver concours and like that raw look. This black paint was a later NOS Factory spray paint. To achieve the line I used blue tape and a citrus paint remover...
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