Topic: Factory type seam sealer and undercoating

[Rsanter]

What is the best.....easiest to get good results and most durable....
For the seam sealer and for the black undercoating stuff applied to the seams of the cars.

What have you guys had good result with

Bob

[67gta289]

Sorry, but with "best", "easiest", and "durable" you can only pick 2 of the 3.  If you limit this to "easiest" and "durable", you can pick 1.

On a serious note, you did not say that you are looking for something that is "factory like" or "concours".

For something like that, I have access to (did not have to buy a $500 spray gun - something used in many body shops.  The material in a caulk gun tube is about $20 a tube, and it takes 2 to 4 to do a car depending on how much was salvaged (not removed).

But to do a small spot or touch up, it is not fun to crack that $20 tube and use a small amount, followed up by cleaning the gun.

I have found that the spray can el-cheapo stuff is too runny.  It tends to self level and looks nothing like the factory applied material.

Very interested in other experiences.

[J_Speegle]

What is the best.....easiest to get good results and most durable....
For the seam sealer and for the black undercoating stuff applied to the seams of the cars.

There are likely at least 5 different types of seam sealers used (depending on year and paint)

Durablity sometimes depends on even your local weather and what the car will be exposed to as well as what seam sealer will be seen in the final car and what will not (you can get out of bounds a bit there

And no undercoating was applied at Ford so I'm guessing your referring to sound deadener. Using different terms helps it keep from confusing the two.

There are multiple threads about spray and brush application of sound deadener and examples of how they turned out -

Rather than go over the same again I suggest you seek them out (both sealer and sound deadener threads) . If you have difficulty finding them let us know and we can help out

[Rsanter]

The car is not concourse, Likly show driver grade.
The car is mostly a survivor but there are areas that need attention. I do not what those areas to stand out from the rest of the car.
I have the fenders off and the area under the fender half of the black seam undercoating came off or is very loose and not protecting the car. I am cleaning the seams and am going to use etching primer and then want to cover it back with the black stuff.
I had to replace a part of the floor pan under the drivers feet. I was able to do it such that you really can't tell but want a little seam sealer at the edges to prevent water and stuff getting in. Then I will do some touch up paint to make it blend in
The blac sealer in the trunk is also cracking and coming off. Not sure I replace it now as I do not want to do a repaint, but as some point the car will need a repaint


What have you guys had the best luck with

[J_Speegle]

The car is not concourse, Likly show driver grade.

Sorry understood from the thread title that you were going for the factory look - looks like you have a different focus than I thought

The car is mostly a survivor but there are areas that need attention. I do not what those areas to stand out from the rest of the car.
I have the fenders off and the area under the fender half of the black seam undercoating came off or is very loose and not protecting the car. I am cleaning the seams and am going to use etching primer and then want to cover it back with the black stuff.

If you just doing this as a daily driver using a rattle can or two of spray undercoating should allow you to over coat what is there and build up the area where there is none any longer. Of course if its factory sound deadener the texture and thickness will not be there   For that your looking at buying a $200 [plus gun and some more expensive products

I had to replace a part of the floor pan under the drivers feet. I was able to do it such that you really can't tell but want a little seam sealer at the edges to prevent water and stuff getting in. Then I will do some touch up paint to make it blend in

Don't know - never done any where the plan was to hide a seam with sealant

The blac sealer in the trunk is also cracking and coming off. Not sure I replace it now as I do not want to do a repaint, but as some point the car will need a repaint

What have you guys had the best luck with

What year and plant (texture/application is so different)  are you working on

[Rsanter]

It's a 1969 mustang conv, San Jose plant
The seams are where it meets the seat pan, the outer rail, inner rail and the torque box area. So the metal was installed with a completely factory look. I there was a strip of the black stuff where the floor pan meets the inner rocker and the inside of the pinch weld

Bob

[J_Speegle]

It's a 1969 mustang conv, San Jose plant
The seams are where it meets the seat pan, the outer rail, inner rail and the torque box area. So the metal was installed with a completely factory look. I there was a strip of the black stuff where the floor pan meets the inner rocker and the inside of the pinch weld

At the rocker to floor pan I use a black elastomeric (s?) no grit product they sell at Home Depot locally in the roofing section Since the stuff sets up fairly firm but with some flew you might be able to brush it over the damaged trunk sealant and in some areas over coat it with a rubberized paintable undercoating but of course originally it would have been painted over so any repairing will be visible