ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on October 31, 2023, 11:48:38 PM
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Wondering what the correct finishes should be on the starter motor. This is one from West Coast Classic Cougar, but I believe the whole starter was painted after it was assembled, except the nose? Looking for a correct photo as I have not been able to find one.
Also on the WCCC site they do not recommend the concourse solenoid fondly referred to as a POS. Has anyone had luck with another product or are originals the way to go. While correctness is great I do want my car to run and drive and be reliable and drivable. No point in having a perfectly correct car that does not drive or run well imo. Call me crazy!
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-311023224623-196912363.png)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-311023224623-1969212.png)
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Wondering what the correct finishes should be on the starter motor. This is one from West Coast Classic Cougar, but I believe the whole starter was painted after it was assembled, except the nose? Looking for a correct photo as I have not been able to find one.
Also on the WCCC site they do not recommend the concourse solenoid fondly referred to as a POS. Has anyone had luck with another product or are originals the way to go. While correctness is great I do want my car to run and drive and be reliable and drivable. No point in having a perfectly correct car that does not drive or run well imo. Call me crazy!
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-311023224623-196912363.png)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-311023224623-1969212.png)
You do not want to copy that starter . It has all of the features of a typical auto parts store after market starter. Keep searching.
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You do not want to copy that starter . It has all of the features of a typical auto parts store after market starter. Keep searching.
This is one from the 428 CJ website. Not sure if there is any difference between the 390 & 428 visually or otherwise. This is how I thought the starter looked, the way Boss Bill described it to me, but no photo.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-311023225313-196931714.jpeg)
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This is one from the 428 CJ website. Not sure if there is any difference between the 390 & 428 visually or otherwise.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-311023225313-196931714.jpeg)
That is a better example but still not detailed correctly. Gasket should be under bendix cover and band clamp. There was typically faint black overspray on the nose cone instead of a defined cut line between the nose cone and the center barrel section as in the picture. If you compare the two pictures you posted you can see some other things that are different between the autoparts store starter and the CJ website one. The CJ website starter is more correct. Stamped engineering number on the 68 and up starters hard to come up with . Fortunately for you the 390 starter is easier to come up with compared to the ultra rare CJ version.
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That is a better example but still not detailed correctly. Gasket should be under bendix cover and band clamp. There was typically faint black overspray on the nose cone instead of a defined cut line between the nose cone and the center barrel section as in the picture. If you compare the two pictures you posted you can see some other things that are different between the autoparts store starter and the CJ website one. The CJ website starter is more correct. Stamped engineering number on the 68 and up starters hard to come up with . Fortunately for you the 390 starter is easier to come up with compared to the ultra rare CJ version.
Thanks Bob. Currently my engineering numbers do not line up, but will see if I can find a good core and then rebuild it. Good point on the SJ version.
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You do not want to copy that starter . It has all of the features of a typical auto parts store after market starter. Keep searching.
Found one, but no engineering number. What number should I be looking for?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334465803881?fits=Year%3A1968%7CModel%3AMustang%7CMake%3AFord&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D256748%26meid%3Dc7a076a103c345548c342e6f220172c8%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D166174461549%26itm%3D334465803881%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A334465803881c7a076a103c345548c342e6f220172c8%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABUObhgc4Nk8%252BdtAwOww4FKLaj%252FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%252BNDW%252B%252FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%252BJIbCOMehu%252Bdw4wRVHyk4%252F0Ewev1vnTGVVHWbrZDXwLAce28wUwzsIimnTeYSmEQfljGnsbrsxYXoEBfGpk7P4ld8HyYd4F2%252FKGGl8XQuN%252Fr7mwlchKIMfn5XmPS4A2SAbYj6lQVCXeHrU8dj377rtXZFmY3svul%252FpuNFev0BUW8Jc6QmUahSXjUiCa62t%252FtIPcVV3xLDFtZITvZvfqGiaCeQB2hiTtIEaRE0Pe6AiT61Y2L7dLqZY9L%252BvB%252F4woV7lFnWQsxSP1I41eheP7HINeVqSZX7AZw2nQ%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&epid=7022462502 (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334465803881?fits=Year%3A1968%7CModel%3AMustang%7CMake%3AFord&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D256748%26meid%3Dc7a076a103c345548c342e6f220172c8%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D166174461549%26itm%3D334465803881%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A334465803881c7a076a103c345548c342e6f220172c8%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABUObhgc4Nk8%252BdtAwOww4FKLaj%252FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%252BNDW%252B%252FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%252BJIbCOMehu%252Bdw4wRVHyk4%252F0Ewev1vnTGVVHWbrZDXwLAce28wUwzsIimnTeYSmEQfljGnsbrsxYXoEBfGpk7P4ld8HyYd4F2%252FKGGl8XQuN%252Fr7mwlchKIMfn5XmPS4A2SAbYj6lQVCXeHrU8dj377rtXZFmY3svul%252FpuNFev0BUW8Jc6QmUahSXjUiCa62t%252FtIPcVV3xLDFtZITvZvfqGiaCeQB2hiTtIEaRE0Pe6AiT61Y2L7dLqZY9L%252BvB%252F4woV7lFnWQsxSP1I41eheP7HINeVqSZX7AZw2nQ%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&epid=7022462502)
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Wondering what the correct finishes should be on the starter motor. This is one from West Coast Classic Cougar, but I believe the whole starter was painted after it was assembled, except the nose? Looking for a correct photo as I have not been able to find one.
If you had an earlier built 68 you could possibly get by with a none stamped in metal version used on earlier cars :(
These threads basically cover the standard finishing of a starter or have links to other threads
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16850.msg105575#msg105575
Long thread on the subject
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14375.0 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14375.0)
Also on the WCCC site they do not recommend the concourse solenoid fondly referred to as a POS. Has anyone had luck with another product or are originals the way to go. While correctness is great I do want my car to run and drive and be reliable and drivable. No point in having a perfectly correct car that does not drive or run well imo. Call me crazy!
Originals if you can find one in decent condition may be the way to go though in a fresh bright engine compartment few other than NOS are going to not stand out as used. Anyone try and plate the mounting bracket while it is still connected to the case? Something I've not had a chance to try
Earlier threads on the C7 solenoids
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23940.msg149157#msg149157 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23940.msg149157#msg149157)
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11450.msg68641#msg68641 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11450.msg68641#msg68641)
Thread discussing rebuild them
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12055.15 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12055.15)
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If you had an earlier built 68 you could possibly get by with a none stamped in metal version used on earlier cars :(
These threads basically cover the standard finishing of a starter or have links to other threads
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16850.msg105575#msg105575
Long thread on the subject
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14375.0 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14375.0)
Originals if you can find one in decent condition may be the way to go though in a fresh bright engine compartment few other than NOS are going to not stand out as used. Anyone try and plate the mounting bracket while it is still connected to the case? Something I've not had a chance to try
Earlier threads on the C7 solenoids
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23940.msg149157#msg149157 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23940.msg149157#msg149157)
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11450.msg68641#msg68641 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11450.msg68641#msg68641)
Thread discussing rebuild them
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12055.15 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12055.15)
Thanks Jef that is great information. Unfortunate that they go through the trouble to make parts look concours correct, but in some cases the emphasis seems to be on look more than fit or function. I have a new reproduction as well as the unit that was in my car when I purchased it. It is definitely an older unit, but not sure if it is original. I will take a photo of it, but as you pointed out, it would look out of place in my engine bay now, but it was fine when it was a driver lol
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Regarding the starter solenoid, the troublesome unit is the one from AMK. There is another one on the market now from Alloy Metal Products and I think it functions properly. I know Virginia Classic Mustang sells the AMP version and others might as well but confirm which one it is when ordering.
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Regarding the starter solenoid, the troublesome unit is the one from AMK. There is another one on the market now from Alloy Metal Products and I think it functions properly. I know Virginia Classic Mustang sells the AMP version and others might as well but confirm which one it is when ordering.
Thanks Jim that is great news. I used all Alloy Metal Product wiring harnesses. I will look into it.
Here is the aftermarket unit I purchased about 5 years ago so I am not sure if it is an AMK unit
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-011123132744-196971933.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-011123132744-196971593.jpeg)
Here is the one that was on my car. Not sure if it is an original unit, however it was plated zinc dichromate.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-011123132745-19700806.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-011123132745-196992395.jpeg)
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Nether of those are correct. It should have a C7 number and Autolite stamping.
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Nether of those are correct. It should have a C7 number and Autolite stamping.
Perhaps this is a case where NOS might be the best option. I have not looked for one, but suspect that must cost a pretty penny.
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Thanks Jef that is great information. Unfortunate that they go through the trouble to make parts look concours correct, but in some cases the emphasis seems to be on look more than fit or function. I have a new reproduction as well as the unit that was in my car when I purchased it. It is definitely an older unit, but not sure if it is original. I will take a photo of it, but as you pointed out, it would look out of place in my engine bay now, but it was fine when it was a driver lol
Understand and why I asked if anyone had tried plating the metal while still attached to the bakeolite. Have been able to polish the plastic like material on ones in decent shape its the plating that is often the concern. Will have to try plating one that way if someone does not beat me to it or has already tried.
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Understand and why I asked if anyone had tried plating the metal while still attached to the bakeolite. Have been able to polish the plastic like material on ones in decent shape its the plating that is often the concern. Will have to try plating one that way if someone does not beat me to it or has already tried.
I have plated some parts in a similar way with success. I did the bracket on my brake distribution valve that way and a few other things. Bob Gains recommended electrical tape to keep the plating off the part you don't want plated and it worked well. I can try plating the old solenoid brackets I have and post the results. The tough part is keeping the unwanted media and plating solution from getting inside the part. Standby for the results. I take it that the plating finish should be clear zinc and not zinc dichromate like the old one I have
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I have plated some parts in a similar way with success. I did the bracket on my brake distribution valve that way and a few other things. Bob Gains recommended electrical tape to keep the plating off the part you don't want plated and it worked well. I can try plating the old solenoid brackets I have and post the results. The tough part is keeping the unwanted media and plating solution from getting inside the part. Standby for the results. I take it that the plating finish should be clear zinc and not zinc dichromate like the old one I have
Yes it can be done with good results. I have done it for years. Zinc silver finish. You will have to tape up bottom vent . I do the bracket first then drill out the bottom plate rivets and do the bottom plate separate.
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Yes it can be done with good results. I have done it for years. Zinc silver finish. You will have to tape up bottom vent . I do the bracket first then drill out the bottom plate rivets and do the bottom plate separate.
Great Idea I was wondering if you can get replacement rivets? Now if I can find a body in nice shape, I'm in business! What about internals. Can you rebuild them?
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Great Idea I was wondering if you can get replacement rivets? Now if I can find a body in nice shape, I'm in business! What about internals. Can you rebuild them?
You can rebuild them but I don't other then filing contact points. But that is just me. If they need more then that I get another.
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Working on the starter motor and wondering if it is possible to get some new parts. So far I have not found any parts available (only rebuilt units for sale, no parts). Looking for the side cover and the gasket. I could repair the side cover, as it has a few dents in it, but if I can get a good replacement that would be better imo. I also need new side bolts (non phillip's)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-231123205902-19926374.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-231123205903-199281638.jpeg)
Also wondering if this band clamp is correct/original. Is dichromate with the same kind of bolt and nut as the brake booster clamp, also bent.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-231123205903-199281261.jpeg)
This is the nose I am planning to use, not the one that was on the starter
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/4775-231123205902-199261531.jpeg)
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I have a few questions regarding starter finishes. I a not sure where to find this information. My under standing is the starter was painted as an assembly, excpept the aluminum nose was masked off. With that said what would be the correct finishes on the following components.
When I removed the ring it was dichromate inside and under the paint.
The cap I have seen dichromate on replacement units, but not sure how originals were done. I did not see any evidence of dichromate on mine.
The long bolts look like that may have been phosphate.
And the small bent bolt looked to be zinc plated.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-180324234221-20266263.jpeg)
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I have a few questions regarding starter finishes. I a not sure where to find this information. My under standing is the starter was painted as an assembly, excpept the aluminum nose was masked off.
In most cases the black paint was fogged or tapered from fully painted at the terminal end to a light to nothing dusting at the other end with the iron case being painted. In some examples one ear was masked of to assure grounding to the bell housing but this has not been found on as many examples. For the record I don't have any FE starter examples with a visible tapped ear or ears on the nose cone
Original starters with usage often loose the black from the aluminum nose cone before it does on the main body and other steel parts because paint does not stick as well to aluminum and the rougher surfaces
Have examples Happen to for FE's where the zinc dichromate is visible on the cover/cap and the band
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I have a few questions regarding starter finishes. I a not sure where to find this information. My under standing is the starter was painted as an assembly, excpept the aluminum nose was masked off. With that said what would be the correct finishes on the following components.
When I removed the ring it was dichromate inside and under the paint.
The cap I have seen dichromate on replacement units, but not sure how originals were done. I did not see any evidence of dichromate on mine.
The long bolts look like that may have been phosphate.
And the small bent bolt looked to be zinc plated.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-180324234221-20266263.jpeg)
I have seen enough original starter components to conclude that the back ring and bendix cover were typically a bare steel .I believe a zinc dichromate indicates a replacement ring which that and the bendix cover are items that can be sourced from after market suppliers to the rebuilder trade. Of course at the end of the day it really doesn't matter what finish because those items along with the long bolts are thoroughly painted black.
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I would mention that after reviewing the picture of your starter core that the stop bolt in the middle of the barrel case is a square drive and not a Philips head . The Philips style is a modern rebuilders part. Have fun changing that out.
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I would mention that after reviewing the picture of your starter core that the stop bolt in the middle of the barrel case is a square drive and not a Philips head . The Philips style is a modern rebuilders part. Have fun changing that out.
Thanks Bob I have another starter with most of the correct parts and will use the best parts from each to make one correct starter
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I have seen enough original starter components to conclude that the back ring and bendix cover were typically a bare steel .I believe a zinc dichromate indicates a replacement ring which that and the bendix cover are items that can be sourced from after market suppliers to the rebuilder trade. Of course at the end of the day it really doesn't matter what finish because those items along with the long bolts are thoroughly painted black.
Good point. I will phosphate the long bolts assuming that is how they were finished and plate the short bolt and nut. I will body work the cover and then paint the cover and the ring
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In most cases the black paint was fogged or tapered from fully painted at the terminal end to a light to nothing dusting at the other end with the iron case being painted. In some examples one ear was masked of to assure grounding to the bell housing but this has not been found on as many examples. For the record I don't have any FE starter examples with a visible tapped ear or ears on the nose cone
Original starters with usage often loose the black from the aluminum nose cone before it does on the main body and other steel parts because paint does not stick as well to aluminum and the rougher surfaces
Have examples Happen to for FE's where the zinc dichromate is visible on the cover/cap and the band
Thanks Jeff that is great information
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Good point. I will phosphate the long bolts assuming that is how they were finished and plate the short bolt and nut. I will body work the cover and then paint the cover and the ring
Plated or not, the long bolts and short machine bolt and stove nut get painted black too with the assembly.
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Plated or not, the long bolts and short machine bolt and stove nut get painted black too with the assembly.
Correct that is my understanding as an assembly
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Just checking to see if the starter body is correct for my car and which nose would be correct or not. Would it decode as 1968, Sept 23, not sure about the part number. Would those noses be first gen 64 & 65?
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-202722057.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-20271981.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-20270746.jpeg)
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Just checking to see if the starter body is correct for my car and which nose would be correct or not. Would it decode as 1968, Sept 23, not sure about the part number. Would those noses be first gen 64 & 65?
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-202722057.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-20271981.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-20270746.jpeg)
Use "Ford Car Parts" (aka the infamous MPC) to aid your quest. A link is in this forums library.
Jim
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Use "Ford Car Parts" (aka the infamous MPC) to aid your quest. A link is in this forums library.
Jim
Great thanks. That explained the starter body, but did not cover the aluminum nose piece. Looks like the article has been updated since the last time I looked at it. Lots of great stuff there.
Interesting that it states that there would be a stamp in the metal casing as well as an ink stamp on top of that
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Great thanks. That explained the starter body, but did not cover the aluminum nose piece. Looks like the article has been updated since the last time I looked at it. Lots of great stuff there.
Interesting that it states that there would be a stamp in the body as well as an ink stamp on top of that
I have to disagree if you are reading that the 68 starter got a metal stamp and a ink stamp identification . The 68 Starter got the engineering number date code and trademark metal stamped into the case. I am skeptical because I have not come across a 68 one with a ink stamp identification of the many that I have inspected out in the field or on NOS service starters with vintage assembly dates that I have had in the past.
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Just checking to see if the starter body is correct for my car and which nose would be correct or not. Would it decode as 1968, Sept 23, not sure about the part number. Would those noses be first gen 64 & 65?
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-202722057.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-20271981.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/20/4775-230324173054-20270746.jpeg)
The center barrel case is the same 65-70 however the pictured case is stamped for a 1969 production car given the date code and a 289/302 automatic given the C7AF 110001 B engineering number. The nose cone is one of the most generic since it was used on a number applications over a number of years with only minor differences between different engineering numbers. The common denominator is that they will all interchange with each other and the nuance differences are on the inside of the nose cone when mounted. At least for the ones you posted pictures of.
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The center barrel case is the same 65-70 however the pictured case is stamped for a 1969 production car given the date code and a 289/302 automatic given the C7AF 110001 B engineering number.
For what it's worth, here's a picture before I painted the barrel of my starter, a 289 AT car, as Bob mentions.
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Working on the starter motor and wondering if it is possible to get some new parts.
I have been having good luck finding NOS parts on eBay for just about anything. The Chinese junk is not usable from my experience. Rebuilding my own starters, water pumps etc has been pretty good.
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I am fortunate to have a rebuilder shop close by that I know the owner. He is second generation rebuilder that rebuilds mine the way I want it using the parts I want. He is much younger then me so hopefully he will be around until I am done fussing with starters. I can think of a million things I would rather do and can do with my time for the nominal rebuild charge .This has worked for me for decades . Maybe find a rebuilder in your area that is open to rebuilding your starter core and you doing the final detailing once it is done. Just a thought.
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I have been having good luck finding NOS parts on eBay for just about anything. The Chinese junk is not usable from my experience. Rebuilding my own starters, water pumps etc has been pretty good.
Nice. I a planning to rebuild my starter using as many original parts as possible as well. It's great that we can still find NOS parts for these cars
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I am fortunate to have a rebuilder shop close by that I know the owner. He is second generation rebuilder that rebuilds mine the way I want it using the parts I want. He is much younger then me so hopefully he will be around until I am done fussing with starters. I can think of a million things I would rather do and can do with my time for the nominal rebuild charge .This has worked for me for decades . Maybe find a rebuilder in your area that is open to rebuilding your starter core and you doing the final detailing once it is done. Just a thought.
Hi Bob. I took your advice and there is a guy locally who rebuilds vintage starters for the collector car hobby. He is a starter guru and knows his stuff when it comes to pre '80's cars. He does alternators and starters etc. Reminds me of Doc in "Back to the Future". He's got a lab coast with the plastic pen holder lol. I refinished all my parts and media blasted the casing etc and brought him 2 old starters and one reman starter and asked if he could make me one good correct starter. He will use some new parts as required internally, but I agree and will let him rebuild it and test it while i focus on the other million things I need to work on to finish this car.
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The center barrel case is the same 65-70 however the pictured case is stamped for a 1969 production car given the date code and a 289/302 automatic given the C7AF 110001 B engineering number. The nose cone is one of the most generic since it was used on a number applications over a number of years with only minor differences between different engineering numbers. The common denominator is that they will all interchange with each other and the nuance differences are on the inside of the nose cone when mounted. At least for the ones you posted pictures of.
Thanks Bob that is great information. Since I am getting the starter rebuilt, I will continue down that path and add a different starter to the long list of stuff I need to swap out at a later date. The goal is to get the car running and proceed forward and make the swap outs as I find suitable parts. If I wait to get every part I need to put the car together I may not finish this car in this lifetime lol. Interestingly the guy rebuilding the starter told me the case number was not correct for my application as soon as he saw it. Should the case have an A or C stamp for my car. I want to make sure that I get the right case. Thanks
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Thanks Bob that is great information. Since I am getting the starter rebuilt, I will continue down that path and add a different starter to the long list of stuff I need to swap out at a later date. The goal is to get the car running and proceed forward and make the swap outs as I find suitable parts. If I wait to get every part I need to put the car together I may not finish this car in this lifetime lol. Interestingly the guy rebuilding the starter told me the case number was not correct for my application as soon as he saw it. Should the case have an A or C stamp for my car. I want to make sure that I get the right case. Thanks
C7AF-A would be for the 390 .
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C7AF-A would be for the 390 .
Ok great thanks, I think that is what the guys who is working on my starter said. How common are they to come across?
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Ok great thanks, I think that is what the guys who is working on my starter said. How common are they to come across?
Making a BB starter out of parts is easy . Finding a metal stamped C7AF-A case is relatively hard given there were so few BB vs. SB .If you want one a certain date code multiple how hard it is find by 10 IMO ;) . Of course you can get luckey.
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Making a BB starter out of parts is easy . Finding a metal stamped C7AF-A case is relatively hard given there were so few BB vs. SB .If you want one a certain date code multiple how hard it is find by 10 IMO ;) . Of course you can get luckey.
Thanks Bib I will keep my eyes peeled and proceed with this one until I find one