ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Parts => Topic started by: Ralf on September 19, 2023, 01:20:31 PM
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Hi,
I'm uncertain if my front bumper is an origin part.
M7 66
Does it mean Dec. 7th. 1966? May be I'm wrong here,
The other number says 10 20 1
Oct. 20th 1st shift?
Which one would makes more sense since my car is Nov. 30th built
Could anyone help me out here?
Had a look into the libary as well.
See pics.
At the end important to me is it worth to rechrome yes or no. The fitment was great.
Thx
Ralf
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10/20/66 would be right
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10/20/66 would be right
Means its a Taiwan repro...
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Means its a Taiwan repro...
Taiwan bumpers were never stamped with dates like original. The pic provided above is an original stamping.
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Taiwan bumpers were never stamped with dates like original. The pic provided above is an original stamping.
+1 Looks like an original Monroe plant stamped front bumper with an appropriate date though its seen allot of work in the past when replated. Must have been in a decent tap from the front. That is the reason for all those marks on the front - just part of the "body work" process the chrome shops use with big mechanical hammers and presses
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It is common to see the plier marks on a reworked rechromed bumper. I have suggested to owners after discovering the damage during judging that after replating that you go in and do body work like bondo and the like to smooth out and make the marks disappear. Then you disguise the work with spray chrome which typically convincingly blend in and conceal the work.Been there done that.
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Did further searches. Looking to Marcus Anghels page it should be the following
M7 66 >>> Monroe Plant, Michigan 1966
10 20 1 >>> Oct, 20, First shift
Full date >>> Produced: October 20, 1966, First shift
This bumper fits to my car production date.
But I do not understand fully the process of the "rework" and the plier marks for rechroming. How does this happen?
It seems also my bumper has partly been welded in corners left and right to the number plate radii.
Thx for your help so far to identify.
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The bumpers are clamped, twisted, bent to get them into shape then beat with different tools. One of the more common tools and the one that left those big nasty marks is a big hammer that has a slim head with a somewhat beveled edges that is used to strike and roughly shape the bumper into the general shape while its held over or against a very big anvil. Have seen some shops that also use some pretty big/tall machines to straighten and achieved the general shape also. Then the outer surface ground to acceptable limits then plated with multiple base coats of metal to hid some of the small amount of work on the exterior while ignoring the back side. Of course all of this shaping and grinding removes metal making them weaker and the metal thinner in places
Here is a video that really does not cover the process but gives some great in-site to the world of repaired and rechromed chrome bumpers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t9zZRd7bMs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t9zZRd7bMs)
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Did further searches. Looking to Marcus Anghels page it should be the following
M7 66 >>> Monroe Plant, Michigan 1966
10 20 1 >>> Oct, 20, First shift
Full date >>> Produced: October 20, 1966, First shift
Yes matches what was said earlier. There were a few different patterns used through the years. Some of the same information and more (for other parts) is available in the article in the Library section of the site titled Decoding Date Codes
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/19/6-200923050123-194451750.jpeg)
But I do not understand fully the process of the "rework" and the plier marks for rechroming. How does this happen?
It seems also my bumper has partly been welded in corners left and right to the number plate radii.
The bumpers are clamped, twisted, bent to get them into shape then beat with different tools. One of the more common tools and the one that left those big nasty marks is a big hammer that has a slim head with a somewhat beveled edges that is used to strike and roughly shape the bumper into the general shape while its held over or against a very big anvil. Have seen some shops that also use some pretty big/tall machines to straighten and achieved the general shape also. Also heat can be used to make the metal more workable but it makes an already, often hot shop and workers even hotter so sometimes it just easier to beat the metal harder and more often than to be very uncomfortable
Then the outer surface is ground to acceptable limits then plated with multiple base coats of metal to hid some of the small amount of work on the exterior while ignoring the back side. Of course all of this shaping and grinding removes metal making them weaker and the metal thinner in places
Here is a video that really does not cover the process but gives some great in-site to the world of repaired and rechromed chrome bumpers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t9zZRd7bMs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t9zZRd7bMs)
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Ok, thank you.
I decided to go for rechroming. Brought the bumper to the shop today. Lets wait for the result somehow in Dec. Yes, they are fully booked.